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Posted

Got all my components together, I've screwed everything in place, now I'm onto the wiring and it's confused me a little bit, I've followed my intuition and some online tutorials and I think I have most things in place, I'd just really like some last few pieces of advice to solve my last remaining issues...

I'm going to post my questions in separate posts so it's easier to quote and reply to;

My fist question is regarding the front console, as you can see from the first picture below I have RESET SW, POWER SW, POWER LED-, POWER LED+ & H.D.D LED.

In the second picture you can see I've got sockets for PLED, SPEAKER(ignore this, this is easy enough for me ;) ), +IDE, -LED, PWRSW & RESET

So I've paired 2 up as follows;

RESET SW & RESET

POWER SW & PWRSW

These others I'm not sure about as the wording doesn't match up exactly - I was worried about puffs of smoke etc;

POWER LED-

POWER LED+

H.D.D LED

with;

PLED

+IDE

-LED

These confused me as there is a plus and a minus socket but not POWER LED- & POWER LED+, only IDE or LED

Please help :(

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Posted

My second question is regarding the AC'97 plug and the HD AUDIO plug, I figured out that 1 of them needs to go into the socket named 'AAFP' but I wasn't sure which one

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Posted

My next concern is the HDD & my optical drive, not so much the optical drive as I figured out that I used the L shaped plug from the PSU plus one of the smaller L shaped plugs to attach it to the SATA3G_1 socket, but with the HDD I also used one of the larger L shaped plugs to attach it to the PSU and the smaller L shaped plugs to attach it to the second SATA3G_2 socket, is this correct?

As you can see from the 2nd pic there is a 4-pin socket in the back of the HDD, what is this for?

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Posted

My last question, for the moment anyway, is regarding the socket named ATX12V, I have attached the 4-pin plug coming from the PSU to this socket, I saw this done in another online tutorial but being so inexperienced I wasn't sure exactly what for!

Do I need this plugged in or should it be just another spare cable in my case, waiting for extra components to be installed?

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Posted

The Power LED + is the same as the hdd (IDE on your case).

If you are to believe audiophiles, then yes, there is a difference to which way cables are plugged in. If you are actually sane, than you'd know that it doesn't matter.

I'm not quite sure what those four pins on your SATA drive are for...

Posted

The Power LED + is the same as the hdd (IDE on your case).

So I'll be leaving either the POWER LED or H.D.D LED unplugged?

Posted

The Power LED + is the same as the hdd (IDE on your case).

So I'll be leaving either the POWER LED or H.D.D LED unplugged?

No, the Power LED connectors (single pin) go to the top side of the picture where it shows PLED (for Power LED) and the IDE LED 2-pin connector on the bottom left row of pins. You will see two rows of labels - the top row is for the pins on the top of the photo and the bottom labels identify the bottom row of pins.

The 'connector' is actually a jumper block on the SATA drive and a jumper selects whether it is SATA I or SATA II. Should be removed for SATA II.

Posted

The Power LED + is the same as the hdd (IDE on your case).

So I'll be leaving either the POWER LED or H.D.D LED unplugged?

No, the Power LED connectors (single pin) go to the top side of the picture where it shows PLED (for Power LED) and the IDE LED 2-pin connector on the bottom left row of pins. You will see two rows of labels - the top row is for the pins on the top of the photo and the bottom labels identify the bottom row of pins.

The 'connector' is actually a jumper block on the SATA drive and a jumper selects whether it is SATA I or SATA II. Should be removed for SATA II.

Hi Tywais, I saw this but it looks like the top has been mixed up with the bottom as there is no choice to use a + or a - with the H.D.D LED connector I have, so I take it the H.D.D LED is also known as IDE LED?

Posted

The Power LED + is the same as the hdd (IDE on your case).

So I'll be leaving either the POWER LED or H.D.D LED unplugged?

No, the Power LED connectors (single pin) go to the top side of the picture where it shows PLED (for Power LED) and the IDE LED 2-pin connector on the bottom left row of pins. You will see two rows of labels - the top row is for the pins on the top of the photo and the bottom labels identify the bottom row of pins.

The 'connector' is actually a jumper block on the SATA drive and a jumper selects whether it is SATA I or SATA II. Should be removed for SATA II.

I don't understand what you're referring to here Tywais, sorry :(

Posted

The Power LED + is the same as the hdd (IDE on your case).

So I'll be leaving either the POWER LED or H.D.D LED unplugged?

No, the Power LED connectors (single pin) go to the top side of the picture where it shows PLED (for Power LED) and the IDE LED 2-pin connector on the bottom left row of pins. You will see two rows of labels - the top row is for the pins on the top of the photo and the bottom labels identify the bottom row of pins.

The 'connector' is actually a jumper block on the SATA drive and a jumper selects whether it is SATA I or SATA II. Should be removed for SATA II.

I don't understand what you're referring to here Tywais, sorry :(

So would you say apart from those front panel cables, everything else looks in place?

Posted

Hi Tywais, I saw this but it looks like the top has been mixed up with the bottom as there is no choice to use a + or a - with the H.D.D LED connector I have, so I take it the H.D.D LED is also known as IDE LED?

IDE = HDD and use the same +/- labels as shown for the power LED.

Posted

The Power LED + is the same as the hdd (IDE on your case).

So I'll be leaving either the POWER LED or H.D.D LED unplugged?

No, the Power LED connectors (single pin) go to the top side of the picture where it shows PLED (for Power LED) and the IDE LED 2-pin connector on the bottom left row of pins. You will see two rows of labels - the top row is for the pins on the top of the photo and the bottom labels identify the bottom row of pins.

The 'connector' is actually a jumper block on the SATA drive and a jumper selects whether it is SATA I or SATA II. Should be removed for SATA II.

I don't understand what you're referring to here Tywais, sorry :(

From your earlier question - "As you can see from the 2nd pic there is a 4-pin socket in the back of the HDD, what is this for?"

Posted

So would you say apart from those front panel cables, everything else looks in place?

I usually find that the labels need to be facing out from the connector for polarity matching. The H.D.D/IDE cable has it facing in. However, it often comes down to trial and error and if the H.D.D. Led doesn't come on, just reverse the connector. ;)

Since this is an ASUS board there should have been a Quick Connect connector included where you plug all those black connectors in then you plug the quick connect directly in to the multi pin connector. Keeps it nicely organized and easy to unplug if necessary.

Posted

Thanks for the answers Tywais!

I just disconnected the HDD & optic drives, as well as the fans & LED's and I connected a monitor to do a test start and it started fine! Now all I need to do is be sure I've used the right selections for the optical drive in the SATA3G_1 socket and the HDD into the SATA3G_2...

Posted

So would you say apart from those front panel cables, everything else looks in place?

I usually find that the labels need to be facing out from the connector for polarity matching. The H.D.D/IDE cable has it facing in. However, it often comes down to trial and error and if the H.D.D. Led doesn't come on, just reverse the connector. ;)

Since this is an ASUS board there should have been a Quick Connect connector included where you plug all those black connectors in then you plug the quick connect directly in to the multi pin connector. Keeps it nicely organized and easy to unplug if necessary.

Unfortunately there wasn't :(

Posted

I'm sorry I worded my earlier post so poorly.

As Tywais stated, plug the suckers in and hit the power button. If they don't come one (or blink the case of the hdd/IDE light), next time you shutdown simply turn the pins around.

I had forgotten about the SATA mode; but you don't have anything to worry about in concern to those bank of pins on the hard drive.

The ATX 4 pin should be plugged in. IIRC, it's an on demand power system so it will be needed if you really start stressing the system (remember that the ATX spec is pushing 30 years old and even the 24 pin is nearing a decade and processors make much greater demands now-a-days).

I hope you realise my direction is important comment was tongue in cheek. You can arrange the connectors any way you want; I'd recommend in such a way to relieve the most strain off the cable...i.e. with the right angle connector up by the drive. If you have an add in card you can use the right angle to make clearance.

Posted

So would you say apart from those front panel cables, everything else looks in place?

I usually find that the labels need to be facing out from the connector for polarity matching. The H.D.D/IDE cable has it facing in. However, it often comes down to trial and error and if the H.D.D. Led doesn't come on, just reverse the connector. ;)

Since this is an ASUS board there should have been a Quick Connect connector included where you plug all those black connectors in then you plug the quick connect directly in to the multi pin connector. Keeps it nicely organized and easy to unplug if necessary.

Unfortunately there wasn't :(

Perhaps just the higher end boards. The SATA & SATA power connections looked fine in your photo. Did the BIOS come up? Keyboard/Mouse connected? Next is to plug the DVD/HDD in and check in the BIOS they are recognized plus memory is recognized in full.

Posted

I'm sorry I worded my earlier post so poorly.

As Tywais stated, plug the suckers in and hit the power button. If they don't come one (or blink the case of the hdd/IDE light), next time you shutdown simply turn the pins around.

I had forgotten about the SATA mode; but you don't have anything to worry about in concern to those bank of pins on the hard drive.

The ATX 4 pin should be plugged in. IIRC, it's an on demand power system so it will be needed if you really start stressing the system (remember that the ATX spec is pushing 30 years old and even the 24 pin is nearing a decade and processors make much greater demands now-a-days).

I hope you realise my direction is important comment was tongue in cheek. You can arrange the connectors any way you want; I'd recommend in such a way to relieve the most strain off the cable...i.e. with the right angle connector up by the drive. If you have an add in card you can use the right angle to make clearance.

Understood DB :)

Posted

So would you say apart from those front panel cables, everything else looks in place?

I usually find that the labels need to be facing out from the connector for polarity matching. The H.D.D/IDE cable has it facing in. However, it often comes down to trial and error and if the H.D.D. Led doesn't come on, just reverse the connector. ;)

Since this is an ASUS board there should have been a Quick Connect connector included where you plug all those black connectors in then you plug the quick connect directly in to the multi pin connector. Keeps it nicely organized and easy to unplug if necessary.

Unfortunately there wasn't :(

Perhaps just the higher end boards. The SATA & SATA power connections looked fine in your photo. Did the BIOS come up? Keyboard/Mouse connected? Next is to plug the DVD/HDD in and check in the BIOS they are recognized plus memory is recognized in full.

BIOS came up yes, Keyboard was but not the mouse, did'nt think I could use it at tha stage anyway, I'll try the HDD and DVD now, memory was recognised :)

Posted

I just plugged everything in and fired up and no explosions here!

I wasn't taken to BIOS this time, just straight to a page telling me there was no boot device and to insert boot device so I put the Windows DVD in and it's loading now, I'd say so far so good...

Posted

BIOS came up yes, Keyboard was but not the mouse, did'nt think I could use it at tha stage anyway, I'll try the HDD and DVD now, memory was recognised :)

Too bad we don't have the video chat room anymore, could help in real time. :D

Posted

BIOS came up yes, Keyboard was but not the mouse, did'nt think I could use it at tha stage anyway, I'll try the HDD and DVD now, memory was recognised :)

Too bad we don't have the video chat room anymore, could help in real time. :D

I was thinking the same thing! All seems fine though so thanks so much for yours and everybodys input, I couldn't have done it without you, and in the end, it was a breeze! :)

Posted

Perhaps I missed it, but what components did you settle on? Could you break it down, with prices, in case someone else was looking to build their machine?

Posted

Perhaps I missed it, but what components did you settle on? Could you break it down, with prices, in case someone else was looking to build their machine?

Certainly :)

Case - Nox Coolbay devil Edition - B2,250 - Pantip Plaza - EDIT - I have to say that it doesn't glow up as much as it's showing in the pictures, they're not distracting flashing lights either, quite calming actually, but if I get bored of them at a later date, I'll try cutting the LED wires! Looking at it head-on it's very smart :)

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CPU - Intel Core™ i5-2500 Sandy Bridge Processor (6M Cache, 3.30 GHz) (BX80623I52500) - B6,850 InvadeIT

Motherboard - Asus P8H61-M LE(B3) LGA1155 / H61 / 2 x DDR3 / 4 x SATA 3Gb/s / uATX - B2,490 InvadeIT. I got this one instead of this one, it was B260 cheaper, it has pretty much the same features but is without USB3 ports, but does include a HDMI port which is important for me to fit a second monitor.

PSU(power supply) - Cooler Master eXtreme Power Plus 500W Power Supply (RS-500-PCAR-A3) - B1,900 InvadeIT

HDD - Seagate Barracuda 7200.12 SATA 6Gb/s 1TB Hard Drive 7200RPM 32MB Cache (ST31000524AS) - B2,080 InvadeIT

RAM - Kingston 4GB 1600MHz DDR3 Non-ECC CL9 DIMM (Kit of 2) XMP (KHX1600C9D3K2/4GX) - B1,890 InvadeIT

DVD Drive - Asus DRW-24B3ST Internal 24x SATA DVD-Writer Black - B690 InvadeIT

Monitors - 1 BenQ G925HDA 18.5"W 1366x768 40000:1 5ms - B2,690 & 1 BenQ G610HDAL 15.6" Widescreen / Color Black - B2,390 - Pantip Plaza

OS - Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium English 32/64-bit (GFC-00094) Retail - B4,250 InvadeIT

Mouse - Logitech Wireless Mouse M325 Dark Silver - B790 InvadeIT

B28,480 including trackable post which took less than 24 hours, and I have to say that InvadeIT was outstanding throughout my order processing, instant replies to my queries, extra help and info on other subjects, they exceeded my expectations completely, it gave me extra peace-of-mind knowing that there is a proficient English speaking person(European, no less) willing to answer my questions, NOT the regular arrogant, grunting & uninterested rep I encountered whilst looking around in Pantip Plaza!

I even got a nice little gift in the Package! Thanks T ;)

Posted

Tywais, in another thread you suggested I get a DVI-VGA adaptor so I can use my second monitor, can I go into a normal computer shop like Pata Pinklao and get one? Or should I get one off ebay for B120?

Posted

Monitors - 1 BenQ G925HDA 18.5"W 1366x768 40000:1 5ms - B2,690 & 1 BenQ G610HDAL 15.6" Widescreen / Color Black - B2,390 - Pantip Plaza

You could have done better...

Other than that, congratulations on building your own computer!

Posted

Monitors - 1 BenQ G925HDA 18.5"W 1366x768 40000:1 5ms - B2,690 & 1 BenQ G610HDAL 15.6" Widescreen / Color Black - B2,390 - Pantip Plaza

You could have done better...

Other than that, congratulations on building your own computer!

Do you mean with the quality of my monitors?

If so, then I just want to explain my choice in a rather lengthy manner - I've got an aversion to LG, Samsung etc with their shiny wobbly cheap looking (and very popular :( )monitors, they encapsulate the need for gloss and glamour in this world and I don't want to contribute to their success, so, as I've done in the past, I went with BenQ, a lesser-known and less poncy alternative to the glossy crap, the picture quality is absolutely spot-on for my needs, especially now that I've installed all the drivers(no more smokey screen like yesterday). I walk along my street and gaze into my neighbours homes, they've all got a massive cheap and tacky, glossy & shiny LG or Samsung TV, despite not having the cash to pay their B200 a month debt to the loan-sharks, or the B60 per month for the bin-men, it's the same in the UK, all the chavs and ponces have got these TV's, it's a statement, and I'm not going to be any part of it :)

Rant over, I hope that explained it, my BenQ's are perfectly adequate for my needs - for most peoples needs actually.

p.s. and before anybody 'wiki's' BenQ, I already have, and they even produce for the likes of Samsung, LG, Dell, Apple, Viewsonic but without the wobbly bendy shiny glossy plastic look(reminds me of the twit L.Gaga), so they can't be all that bad ;)

p.p.s tanks for the congrats, it was really very easy in the end, I had almost completed it but wanted some clarification from you lot before I turned the thing on, and it works like a dream, now I'll start filling it up with all my rubbish, hoping it won't slow down like the old one!...

Posted

Tywais, in another thread you suggested I get a DVI-VGA adaptor so I can use my second monitor, can I go into a normal computer shop like Pata Pinklao and get one? Or should I get one off ebay for B120?

Should be easy to find in most computer shops that sell accessories such as cable components.

Posted

Tywais, in another thread you suggested I get a DVI-VGA adaptor so I can use my second monitor, can I go into a normal computer shop like Pata Pinklao and get one? Or should I get one off ebay for B120?

Should be easy to find in most computer shops that sell accessories such as cable components.

Thanks yet again :)

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