Light Fittings

[khunPer]

I have that, but you will need a kind of protection before the UPS, as overvoltage may destroy the UPS - I've lost 4 UPS' due to voltage spikes, before I learned to protect my systems. You may use a lighting/spike protection panel or plug - or more advanced use the automatic over/under voltage cirquit braker with a magnetic switch. That is worth installing on all sensitive groups, like aircons and water pumps, which may be destroyed as well by under voltage. Will cost around 1500 baht (protector + magnetic) for a single phase - cheaper than replacing for 50-100k baht spoiled electric equipment.

An UPS may deliver up to some 350 Watt, but only around 15-30 minutes (aprox 7 Ah at 12V). If you wish a power failure safe lighting, let one 400 Watt UPS run a total of 100-150 Watt LED lamps (i.e. 25 pcs. 3-5W bulbs). You can extend the power-failure-life-time by adding one or more external 18Ah 12V batteries, each external battery may give you 2 hours when using around 100W.

Good info. Not familiar with what is high lighted in blue. Could you provide more info on those as we have a lot of lightning around my area and for the price sounds reasonable. Thanks.

There are many protection plugs/panels models on the market, look for "surge protection". I found a single plug (Toshino) available in Tesco and Home Pro for around 150 baht. My preferred panel is from the brand "Belkin" - as they seems to be "state of the art" and gives you a Warranty (40,000 baht of damaged equipment). The prices are between 600 and 1,000 baht, depending of the number of outlets and max. spike current.

The protection may just be a set of a kind of capacitors and easy to make, however not worth trying to do yourself, when one can buy it for around 150+ baht.

Brakers/magnetic - there are to my knowledge two brands of "phase protectors" available here. I used "WIP" (Work Improvement Products) model W-OP2 (Under and Over Voltage with adjustable time delay), Code 6009. I tried the 3-phase (including unbalanced voltage) on the main power braker, but then the supply may be cut to often and need to be reset manually, which is not good at night. Therefore I rather use the single-phase for each individual cirquit needing protection, like pumps and aircons. The magnetic switch I use is a Mitshubishi S-N10.

[electau]

Surge and spike protectors (SPDs), can be fitted within a power board or installed on the switchboard. the switch board types are rated at 40kA per phase for an 8/20 microsecond impluse and a minimum working voltage of 275VAC. Module are plug in replaceable DIN rail mounting, Should be protected by a 32A MCB.

Coarse protection at the switchboard and fine protection at the socket outlet.

　

[Crossy]

Agree 100% ^^^

[snarky66]

The fittings are all high out of the way and the CU will have an RCD but at some point I guess I'll have to change a bulb....

If the switch is correctly wired in the Live you have nothing to worry about on your bamboo ladder with your rubber gloves and shoes

If you use LEDs then you may never have to change a bulb anyway

Hey Crossy. Remind me how that works. In India the guy is up on a ladder. He has a wire or a light buld in his mouth. He steps out of his flip flop & touches (the) ground. If the light comes on the circuit is good.

If you have never seen this it will dumbfound you.

[Greenside]

Surge and spike protectors (SPDs), can be fitted within a power board or installed on the switchboard. the switch board types are rated at 40kA per phase for an 8/20 microsecond impluse and a minimum working voltage of 275VAC. Module are plug in replaceable DIN rail mounting, Should be protected by a 32A MCB.

Coarse protection at the switchboard and fine protection at the socket outlet.

By switchboard, I assume you mean the consumer unit?

The recent developments in the this thread are making me feel a bit depressed - I'm expecting our final fit next week and haven't thought about UPSs for lighting or alternate plugs in every room. I'm having a hard time trying to find decent over mirror bathroom lights and good looking down lights that will keep geckos out of the roof space. What's wrong with me??

Edited August 9, 2011 by Greenside

[CDNinKS]

down lights that will keep geckos out of the roof space. What's wrong with me??

Homepro has a selection of downlights (we called them pot lights in Canada) that have glass covers. I bought a square variety with covers for the outside eave lights and a round version with covers for inside the house.

[khunPer]

down lights that will keep geckos out of the roof space. What's wrong with me??

Homepro has a selection of downlights (we called them pot lights in Canada) that have glass covers. I bought a square variety with covers for the outside eave lights and a round version with covers for inside the house.

I use the ones with glass cover from HomePro all over my house. Some models have a sanded circle in the middle of the glass, which prevent irritating downlight. I choosed LED bulbs, which often are directional, and that looks very nice trough the glass cover with sanded middle. I did spent quite some time testing different models of LEDs (220V, 3-5W, E27) and I ended up with different types in the various rooms, like bathrooms, bedrooms etc. One one tiny gecko inside in a year - the small ones seems to find a way in, but often not out again - in some 100+ lamps.

For outdoor use, be aware of rust. You can find models, which are made of zink instead of iron (cheap quality steel). When the chassis and metel in the covers begins to rust, it not only damage to lamp (may be difficult to unscrew cover), but also make marks on the ceiling. Might cost a little more - but cheaper than changing the whole lamp after one or two years.