Big bike forced off road by car on Bangkok highway - video

[simon43]

I need to purchase a specific model of air-con unit that is not sold in Thailand, (it's a low current consumption unit)

This air-con is widely sold in Indonesia.

If I import the units from Indonesia, would there be an import duty payable? - Or does the fact that Thailand and Indonesia are part of Asean negate any import tax? Is there a FTA between Thaland and Indonesia?

Simon

[thaicbr]

what brand is it. how many are you wanting.. can you not contact the Thai office of the manufacturer and inquire if they can get them for you?

[simon43]

It's an LG model that is actually made in Thailand, but seems unavailable for purchase here. I emailed the Thai office of LG but (big surprise) I had no reply. So I've emailed the global HQ of LG to try to determine if I can indeed purchase this unit in Thailand, or if I need to import it.

Unfortunately, all air-con suppliers that I have spoken with deny all knowledge of a low power air-con unit - they just want to sell me what THEY want to sell me, not what I want to buy.

Simon

PS - it does not have to be an LG model - but it does have to be a low current (5 amp) model.

Edited September 27, 2011 by simon43

[Naam]

It's an LG model that is actually made in Thailand, but seems unavailable for purchase here. I emailed the Thai office of LG but (big surprise) I had no reply. So I've emailed the global HQ of LG to try to determine if I can indeed purchase this unit in Thailand, or if I need to import it.

Unfortunately, all air-con suppliers that I have spoken with deny all knowledge of a low power air-con unit - they just want to sell me what THEY want to sell me, not what I want to buy.

Simon

PS - it does not have to be an LG model - but it does have to be a low current (5 amp) model.

Honourable Sir Simon, Esq.;

listen to the good news! today any new 9,000 btu/h model (even some old models) from any manufacturer draws less than 4 running amps. the run-of-the-mill 12,000 btu/h models draw 5 running amps.

my consulting fee is one bottle of "Erdinger Weissbier" which you may send by e-mail attachment.

[katabeachbum]

It's an LG model that is actually made in Thailand, but seems unavailable for purchase here. I emailed the Thai office of LG but (big surprise) I had no reply. So I've emailed the global HQ of LG to try to determine if I can indeed purchase this unit in Thailand, or if I need to import it.

Unfortunately, all air-con suppliers that I have spoken with deny all knowledge of a low power air-con unit - they just want to sell me what THEY want to sell me, not what I want to buy.

Simon

PS - it does not have to be an LG model - but it does have to be a low current (5 amp) model.

Honourable Sir Simon, Esq.;

listen to the good news! today any new 9,000 btu/h model (even some old models) from any manufacturer draws less than 4 running amps. the run-of-the-mill 12,000 btu/h models draw 5 running amps.

my consulting fee is one bottle of "Erdinger Weissbier" which you may send by e-mail attachment.

seconded, any EGAT 5 energy class is within these limits. However they draw more each time compressor kicks in, so 10 amp breaker and 1,5mm2 cables needed

To avoid these peak powers, inverter compressors

[Naam]

To avoid these peak powers, inverter compressors

there is a (rather tricky) way to reduce the starting amps of a conventional compressor. i have done it 20 years ago on the aircon system of my boat. the compressor did not start on battery/alternator/inverter power even though these were adequately dimensioned. solution was a small motorised valve triggered by a timer which gradually closed a refrigerant bypass within 15 seconds after the compressor started.

the big headache was doing the work in a terribly tight space. much later i replaced the electric compressor with a belt driven car compressor driven by one of the engines.

[simon43]

Indeed, it is really the starting surge demand that is the issue for my feeble electricity supply. I've read about 'hard-start' kits, (which are basically a bigger capacitor wired across the supply), but I'm not sure if this solution is proven.

Simon

[katabeachbum]

Indeed, it is really the starting surge demand that is the issue for my feeble electricity supply. I've read about 'hard-start' kits, (which are basically a bigger capacitor wired across the supply), but I'm not sure if this solution is proven.

Simon

or Mitsus inverter compressor, with 2-6 indoor units, each controlled individually, available in TH

[Naam]

Indeed, it is really the starting surge demand that is the issue for my feeble electricity supply. I've read about 'hard-start' kits, (which are basically a bigger capacitor wired across the supply), but I'm not sure if this solution is proven.

Simon

what number of units are you talking Simon?

[kokesaat]

simon, I don't know how feeble your power is, but here's our experience: Past 10 years we over ran a 24000 btu old monster to keep our bedroom/living room cool. Every time the compressor kicked in, our power would dip, my computer ups would beep and the lights would dim. This year, we bought a 18k btu inverter for the bedroom to replace the old 24k, an 18k inverter for the living room, and a 6500btu non-inverter for the computer room.

Over the 5 months since, our power bills are nearly in half, our home's humidity levels are waaay down, and no more beeps/dips/dims with the power. We generally run one 18k inverter during the day, then both for a few hours in the evening. No problems at all. The inverters are Daikin, the noninverter is a Carrier. The Carrier sips a mere 2.65amp and does a very good job of keeping the computer room nice and cool.

All the ACs have a dehumidifier function that works great in keeping our indoor humidity levels way down from years past. No more musty smell.

I should have made the move and bought new ACs years ago. Money well spent!

[Naam]

All the ACs have a dehumidifier function that works great in keeping our indoor humidity levels way down...

for the record: ACs without a "dehumidifier function" do not exist, all ACs dehumidify. that applies to units built shortly after World War II and those still in showrooms.

insufficient dehumidification happens only if an AC is overdimensioned which means insufficient compressor run times. a crux in Thailand where former shoesales men or burger flippers without any basic knowledge sell uninformed clients AC units with too much capacity.

Edited September 28, 2011 by Naam

[simon43]

This post started out about FTA, (hence the business forum), but it's now more relevant to house-building But hopefully we can conclude this technical discussion soon (and successfully).

The power supply is 3 phase x 15 amps, (ie 45 amps at 220 volts total). This is all that the local electricity company can supply (just 800 meters from Phuket International Airport), because the local OrBorTor could not be bothered to invest in better infrastructure over the past few years.

The 'mini-resort' is one of 2 that I'm building by the airport. Each has 9 guest rooms and each is located at a separate location in the airport region.

Due to the feeble power supply, I am proposing to use solar water heaters for the bathroom hot water and a range of solar lighting for the garden, thus reducing the overall current demand of the project.

My plans call for at least 5 of the guest rooms to have air-conditioner units, whilst the other 4 will use natural and fan cooling, (Surprisingly, and 6 years previous experience tells me that actually a high proportion of tourists who want accommodation in the 2-3 star category specifically do not want to use air-cons).

So the major current demand will be from the air-con units, and I need to minimise the current demand per unit, and to minimise the starting surge current. Of course, it's unlikely that all guests will switch on their air-cons exactly at the same time, but I do want to eliminate any dimming of mains-powered lighting.

Katabeachbum, please tell me more about the Mitsus unit.

Simon

Edited September 28, 2011 by simon43

[harrry]

15 amps in that case means between 15 and 45 A

I made that mistake and thought I needed a 45 A supply as I needed 35 A max and after that I foound out that 45 A meant 45 to 100. I wasted a bit of money on that.

Edited September 28, 2011 by harrry

[katabeachbum]

This post started out about FTA, (hence the business forum), but it's now more relevant to house-building But hopefully we can conclude this technical discussion soon (and successfully).

The power supply is 3 phase x 15 amps, (ie 45 amps at 220 volts total). This is all that the local electricity company can supply (just 800 meters from Phuket International Airport), because the local OrBorTor could not be bothered to invest in better infrastructure over the past few years.

The 'mini-resort' is one of 2 that I'm building by the airport. Each has 9 guest rooms and each is located at a separate location in the airport region.

Due to the feeble power supply, I am proposing to use solar water heaters for the bathroom hot water and a range of solar lighting for the garden, thus reducing the overall current demand of the project.

My plans call for at least 5 of the guest rooms to have air-conditioner units, whilst the other 4 will use natural and fan cooling, (Surprisingly, and 6 years previous experience tells me that actually a high proportion of tourists who want accommodation in the 2-3 star category specifically do not want to use air-cons).

So the major current demand will be from the air-con units, and I need to minimise the current demand per unit, and to minimise the starting surge current. Of course, it's unlikely that all guests will switch on their air-cons exactly at the same time, but I do want to eliminate any dimming of mains-powered lighting.

Katabeachbum, please tell me more about the Mitsus unit.

Simon

yep, we are building now

3 x 15 can be 25-30Amp main breakers, so actually 75-90 Amp.

Mitsu, Keehin at Bypass knows. Its one inverter compressor, supplying x indoor wall- or ceiling units. I believe Daikin has similar systems

hotwater I would focus on the solar heating, and let it supply a hotwatertank with 2000watt heater, timer to kick in at 2-7 am only, when ac is not working hard

as above solutions come at a cost, I would ask PEA to have your own supply of highvoltage and a trafo to 220 volt, and then compare costs