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Water Pump


tatom

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Ive been looking at shallow well water pumps and dont understand all the labeling.

Suction max. 9m is self explanatory, but does Head max 25m mean, the pump will pump water verticaly 25 meters? Also, how far will it pump horizontaly?

The instructions say to install a check valve. What is the purpose of a check valve? And where should it be installed? Ive seen alot of pumps but, never seen a check valve.

Tom Khon Kaen

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The foot valve should take care of that.

I believe they are talking about one and the same beastie.

Did any diagrams come with your pump showing where to install the check valve?

Yes, a 25m head means that is the height to which your pump will lift water on it's output side, horizontal pumping distance is solely determined by the flow resistance of your pipework. Bigger pipes mean less resistance and therefore longer usable pumping distance.

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Without having all the detail on the pump it is very likely the 25 metres means the pump will deliver "x" flow to 25 meters head - now this may well include the lift on the inlet side, therefore if the lift on the inlet side is say 7 metres, then the pump will pump vertically to 18 metres. (total 25metres). As Crossy has pointed out the horizontal distance depends entirely on the pipe size and any change in height from the water level to the discharge point.

If you supply a bit more info like pump model, heights, distance, pipe sizes etc - then we can probably give you a more meaningful answer.

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The foot valve should take care of that.

These are common check valves but I am going to fit a filter before it because it keeps being jammed open from the incoming debris in the water.

If the debris is that bad it will only clog the C/valve up.

U need a strainer on the bottom of the incoming pipe.

The C/valve in your picture example are of poor quality.

The pin that the flap works on, tend to break within a year or so. (Depends on how harsh the water is)

You can get better quality ones.

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The foot valve should take care of that.

These are common check valves but I am going to fit a filter before it because it keeps being jammed open from the incoming debris in the water.

If the debris is that bad it will only clog the C/valve up.

U need a strainer on the bottom of the incoming pipe.

The C/valve in your picture example are of poor quality.

The pin that the flap works on, tend to break within a year or so. (Depends on how harsh the water is)

You can get better quality ones.

The guy in Homemart said it was top quality. :lol: :lol:

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The foot valve should take care of that.

These are common check valves but I am going to fit a filter before it because it keeps being jammed open from the incoming debris in the water.

If the debris is that bad it will only clog the C/valve up.

U need a strainer on the bottom of the incoming pipe.

The C/valve in your picture example are of poor quality.

The pin that the flap works on, tend to break within a year or so. (Depends on how harsh the water is)

You can get better quality ones.

The guy in Homemart said it was top quality. :lol: :lol:

Everything is with them except the pin.biggrin.gif

Have a look at one and see how thin the pin / axle is

(T.I.T)

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The guy in Homemart said it was top quality. :lol: :lol:

Everything is with them except the pin.biggrin.gif

Have a look at one and see how thin the pin / axle is

(T.I.T)

Yeah !! I know there not good, only a simple loose flap but it was the only type they had.

Can't even find a decent ballcock to stop the dam tank over flowing here which is more annoying.

We have a very wide range of water pressure and I would hesitate to fit better quality check valve as I think they may not open at all times.

I wondered if a back-flow preventer type valve would be any better.

Still, will fit a filter before check valve for the time being and sort something out maybe later.

check valve.bmp

post-87530-0-58445200-1323321258_thumb.j

Edited by Kwasaki
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