How To Break In A New Motorcycle?

[loserlazer]

Guys, as some of us are getting new bikes and i would like to know your ideas on engine break in.

As you know, this is a controversial issue over the years among bikers. People tend to discuss this in every forum i have been.

So, two ways are being discussed over an over:

1- Motoman technique: It states a hard break in with full throttle and compression during first 100 miles after 100 miles, it is too late for Motoman way.

2- Sticking to the manual: As motorcycle manufacturers knows best about their bikes and do not want to get any trouble from break in process, what they state at the owner's manual should be true?

This time, i would like to stick Motoman technique as last time i bought my bike second hand on 300 km so did not have a chance. Still, i feel paranoid on this sometime.

Because, if Motoman is true, manufacturers suggest his ways? All these investment and r and d big manufacturers doing, it is impossible for them to miss this, right?

So, which one or are there additional ways you can recommend.

Please guys, your replies are a great help and reference in this forum.

Thanks in advance.

[blackpanda]

[VocalNeal]

His theory about ring sealing rather than ring polishing has some merit.

From memory the process involves some low speed full throttle acceleration runs, about three, then a cool down, then repeat, twice more. I don't think there is any 100 mi. involved. It is the first 10-20 or maybe even less which are more important. The problem arises when the journey home from the dealership is more than 10-20kms and you don't have time to do it "properly".

As for the manufacturer's recommendations you can imagine the carnage if everyone was out doing low speed acceleration runs. If I remember every manufacturer says do not drive at a constant speed, vary the speed. This does involve some acceleration just like your method.

[NeverSure]

Changing speeds allows the engine to heat and cool, expand and contract, and aids break in. Compression from acceleration will get behind the rings and force them outward against the cylinder wall, aiding break in. If I had to drive home from the dealership in traffic, I would essentially be doing all of that, but I'd soon give the throttle a few good stabs even if it meant I had to slightly ride the brakes at the same time. I think that two second bursts would do it.

It might help to remember that the new cylinder walls and rings do have a slightly "rough" break in surface. When the new cylinders are honed, I can't remember the grit or the fineness of the cross hatch pattern in the cylinders, but it's enough to wear quickly and allow good seating of the rings.

[loserlazer]

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

By the way, this is the link to motoman website.

[wantan]

With all this things in mind please remember the most important thing: Do not crash, not on the first 100 km and hopefully never with your new bike. Much more important than a 110% sealing of the rings which noone knows is true or not

Btw i tried to do the hard breal in on my CBR150 (difficult in BKK traffic) and it runs like hell. I get a high speed of more than 115kmh sometimes

[mania]

http://www.mototuneu..._in_secrets.htm

By the way, this is the link to motoman website.

His method & reasoning seems sound & backed by experience of breaking down the engines &

looking at the results. It is also fairly simple procedure easily done on a back road.

Even if not 100% correct I do not feel the short bursts would do any harm.

What I do agree with 101% is his mention of quickly doing the first oil change of a new engine

after a much shorter interval than suggested by owners manuals.

For the reasons he mentioned.Have always done so with my bikes & trucks/cars

Edited December 6, 2012 by mania

[taninthai]

I used the hard breakin method on my crf on 3800 km now all seems well,going in for the 4000 km service next week and changing to synthetic oil.

Vocal Neil summed it up the first 20 km is the important part and must change the oil on 100 km.

[macknife]

With all this things in mind please remember the most important thing: Do not crash, not on the first 100 km and hopefully never with your new bike. Much more important than a 110% sealing of the rings which noone knows is true or not

Btw i tried to do the hard break in on my CBR150 (difficult in BKK traffic) and it runs like hell. I get a high speed of more than 115kmh sometimes

115kmh? I'm not sure what standard is but my CBR150 will do much more than that. I can cruise along at 120-130 and my best was 150kph.

I didn't follow the recommended break in by the book but I'm not sure if I followed this method either. I took it slow for the first few kms(10km?) and then pinned the throttle going down Rama III, I guess that involved lots of engine braking too. 14,000kms now, and she rides sweet.

I'm getting the new Ninja soon and thought I would go by the book this time, but..... What's the general consensus here? 20km break in ie the above mentioned method?

[wantan]

With all this things in mind please remember the most important thing: Do not crash, not on the first 100 km and hopefully never with your new bike. Much more important than a 110% sealing of the rings which noone knows is true or not

Btw i tried to do the hard break in on my CBR150 (difficult in BKK traffic) and it runs like hell. I get a high speed of more than 115kmh sometimes

115kmh? I'm not sure what standard is but my CBR150 will do much more than that. I can cruise along at 120-130 and my best was 150kph.

I didn't follow the recommended break in by the book but I'm not sure if I followed this method either. I took it slow for the first few kms(10km?) and then pinned the throttle going down Rama III, I guess that involved lots of engine braking too. 14,000kms now, and she rides sweet.

I'm getting the new Ninja soon and thought I would go by the book this time, but..... What's the general consensus here? 20km break in ie the above mentioned method?

Cruising with a CBR150 at 130kmh and lots of throttle left for overtaking? In my dreams i sometimes even fly

Guess i have done something seriously wrong at the breakin. Or am i too fat?

[cbrer]

0-20km, get to running temp, then ride through the gears, revving up to the redline and engine braking down. Don't sit it at one rpm, keep the revs climbing or decreasing. A main road late at night is good for this.

Stop for 20 mins and let the engine cool down.

Repeat this process three times.

After the third cool down, run the knackers off it, into the redline in the top gears.

change the oil and filter and continue to run the knackers off it.

Edited December 6, 2012 by cbrer

[macknife]

With all this things in mind please remember the most important thing: Do not crash, not on the first 100 km and hopefully never with your new bike. Much more important than a 110% sealing of the rings which noone knows is true or not

Btw i tried to do the hard break in on my CBR150 (difficult in BKK traffic) and it runs like hell. I get a high speed of more than 115kmh sometimes

115kmh? I'm not sure what standard is but my CBR150 will do much more than that. I can cruise along at 120-130 and my best was 150kph.

I didn't follow the recommended break in by the book but I'm not sure if I followed this method either. I took it slow for the first few kms(10km?) and then pinned the throttle going down Rama III, I guess that involved lots of engine braking too. 14,000kms now, and she rides sweet.

I'm getting the new Ninja soon and thought I would go by the book this time, but..... What's the general consensus here? 20km break in ie the above mentioned method?

Cruising with a CBR150 at 130kmh and lots of throttle left for overtaking? In my dreams i sometimes even fly

Guess i have done something seriously wrong at the breakin. Or am i too fat?

I didn't say I had lots of throttle left for overtaking. But on long runs I can easily do 125kmh for very long periods sitting on about 8000rpm. I can get to 115kph in BKK regularly, going along the Vipawadee - Rangsit road without any problems at all. I'm 70kgs if that makes a difference.

[macknife]

0-20km, get to running temp, then ride through the gears, revving up to the redline and engine braking down. Don't sit it at one rpm, keep the revs climbing or decreasing. A main road late at night is good for this.

Stop for 20 mins and let the engine cool down.

Repeat this process three times.

After the third cool down, run the knackers off it, into the redline in the top gears.

change the oil and filter and continue to run the knackers off it.

How long does it take to get to the running temp? and where would I go to get an oil change without having to take it back to kawasaki? Would a local street corner guy have the right oil and filter needed?

[wantan]

With all this things in mind please remember the most important thing: Do not crash, not on the first 100 km and hopefully never with your new bike. Much more important than a 110% sealing of the rings which noone knows is true or not

Btw i tried to do the hard break in on my CBR150 (difficult in BKK traffic) and it runs like hell. I get a high speed of more than 115kmh sometimes

115kmh? I'm not sure what standard is but my CBR150 will do much more than that. I can cruise along at 120-130 and my best was 150kph.

I didn't follow the recommended break in by the book but I'm not sure if I followed this method either. I took it slow for the first few kms(10km?) and then pinned the throttle going down Rama III, I guess that involved lots of engine braking too. 14,000kms now, and she rides sweet.

I'm getting the new Ninja soon and thought I would go by the book this time, but..... What's the general consensus here? 20km break in ie the above mentioned method?

Cruising with a CBR150 at 130kmh and lots of throttle left for overtaking? In my dreams i sometimes even fly

Guess i have done something seriously wrong at the breakin. Or am i too fat?

I didn't say I had lots of throttle left for overtaking. But on long runs I can easily do 125kmh for very long periods sitting on about 8000rpm. I can get to 115kph in BKK regularly, going along the Vipawadee - Rangsit road without any problems at all. I'm 70kgs if that makes a difference.

Yes, and i can get easily to 115, sometimes a bit more. I am 90kg and have a topbox on the back. So everything perfect it seems. As i said, my bike runs like hell

[BSJ]

Seeing that I like to keep my bikes for a few years I'll stick with the tried and true method of easy break in.

[TongueThaied]

Don't forget to change the oil early and again. There can be a lot of metallic debris during initial break-in. I always change the oil at 100 kms and again at 500 km. Also, many people like to switch to fully synthetic oil immediately. There is a school of thought that one should continue using pure mineral oil until at least 20,000 km. The reason being that after initial break-in, break-in and ring seating will continue ever more lowly as long as 20,000 km. Fully synthetic oil is slicker and impedes full break-in. I never use synthetic until I have clocked 20K.

In the States, every BMW dealership will recommend this delay before using synthetic. Here, every dealer tries to get you to use synthetic from day one. They almost twist your arm; you have to fight them off. They have no idea about the technology.

Did you know that Thais think you will destroy your car's air conditioner if you run it with the window opened? Go ahead, ask anybody. 555.

Edited December 7, 2012 by TongueThaied

[TongueThaied]

0-20km, get to running temp, then ride through the gears, revving up to the redline and engine braking down. Don't sit it at one rpm, keep the revs climbing or decreasing. A main road late at night is good for this.

Stop for 20 mins and let the engine cool down.

Repeat this process three times.

After the third cool down, run the knackers off it, into the redline in the top gears.

change the oil and filter and continue to run the knackers off it.

How long does it take to get to the running temp? and where would I go to get an oil change without having to take it back to kawasaki? Would a local street corner guy have the right oil and filter needed?

If you want it done right; do it yourself. I'm not being a smartass. I have yet to find a shop that seemed to know its ass from page 8 -- including Rama 9.

[mania]

It is true the best is do it yourself.

Simple quick & cheap.

Buy one of those drain boxes that captures the oil

& has a end cap. Then after changing filter & oil you

can pour your old oil back into the plastic bottles you emptied &

dispose.

The tray just takes a quick wipe with a rag as you never see the tank inside.

Just the drain pan part which usually has a cover anyway.

So the whole deal is not messy at all.

They look like this,

Of course if you live in a condo it is another story & maybe not feasible for you to do yourself.

Then it is best to just ask around & try

to find a shop with a good reputation if possible.

[norwaygeir]

Me and my wife bought a new bike two weeks ago, (I wanted crf250f and she whanted scoopy, we ended up buying the scoopy). It's the S12 model, nice black one. It have now done 220 km on it, but newer had it ower 45 km/h. Changed the oil on 100 km, and the oil looked brand new (could not see or feel anything wrong with it, and the mecanic just look at me like "stuped falang look, why change oil now, only 1000 km, change at 1000". Is it a bad brake in method drive slow and at almost the same pace all the time (always heavy loaded, (me, my pregnant wife and baby, arround 170-180 kg)). Going to change the oil at 500 km to. Do you change the motoroil and the gear oil at the same time, or only the motoroil. I did not change the gear-oil at 100 km, but going to do it at 500 km.

I feel like the small bikes in thailand are bulletproof to anything, so this is maybe a farrang concern? A friend that have a Suzuke shoogun?, did not change the oil before 5000 km, and it have not had any problem and have now done 12000 km. I also heard about one person who gave away a old wave to family, one year later the engine on the bike broke, they not change the oil, only toppups, 35000km later.

On my first bike in thailand, i did a break-in tripp from bangkok to koh chang and back, then stored the bike for 3 years, pulled it out again this summer, and it drives like really fast. Did not change the oil before 1600 km (that's bad, I know), but did a new tripp from bangkok to koh chang, and everything works. Topp-speed around115-120 kmh (with me 100 kg on it). It's a Ryuka Cruser 125 cc.

Do the small bikes really need break in at all?

Sorry for my poor english

Edited December 7, 2012 by norwaygeir

[VocalNeal]

Empty plastic containers are not hard to find, Just cut out one side and slide under the scooter or bike and decant the used oil into another one for storage or disposal. Use an old piece of cardboard box as a drip tray or some kitty litter (cheap as chips).

If changing oil at 100 kms do not use synthetic, use regular oil.

Don't switch to synthetic until the bike is well broken in and then off course only use synthetic that has no friction modifiers Ie. Japanese rating method (JASO) MA. If a belt drive scooter you can use any synthetic or oil with friction modifiers JASO MB.

Many oil threads here if you search.

[BSJ]

It is true the best is do it yourself.

Simple quick & cheap.

Buy one of those drain boxes that captures the oil

& has a end cap. Then after changing filter & oil you

can pour your old oil back into the plastic bottles you emptied &

dispose.

The tray just takes a quick wipe with a rag as you never see the tank inside.

Just the drain pan part which usually has a cover anyway.

So the whole deal is not messy at all.

They look like this,

Of course if you live in a condo it is another story & maybe not feasible for you to do yourself.

Then it is best to just ask around & try

to find a shop with a good reputation if possible.

How about cutting the side out of a 5 litre milk container.....and moving it carefully? It works for me!

[cbrer]

0-20km, get to running temp, then ride through the gears, revving up to the redline and engine braking down. Don't sit it at one rpm, keep the revs climbing or decreasing. A main road late at night is good for this.

Stop for 20 mins and let the engine cool down.

Repeat this process three times.

After the third cool down, run the knackers off it, into the redline in the top gears.

change the oil and filter and continue to run the knackers off it.

How long does it take to get to the running temp?

Check the manual with reference to the temp gauge.

and where would I go to get an oil change without having to take it back to kawasaki? Would a local street corner guy have the right oil and filter needed?

Well we don't know what bike you have so bit difficult for us to answer.

Perhaps when you pick the bike up from Kawa buy an airfilter for it while you're there.

[aitch52]

Don't forget to change the oil early and again. There can be a lot of metallic debris during initial break-in. I always change the oil at 100 kms and again at 500 km. Also, many people like to switch to fully synthetic oil immediately. There is a school of thought that one should continue using pure mineral oil until at least 20,000 km. The reason being that after initial break-in, break-in and ring seating will continue ever more lowly as long as 20,000 km. Fully synthetic oil is slicker and impedes full break-in. I never use synthetic until I have clocked 20K.

In the States, every BMW dealership will recommend this delay before using synthetic. Here, every dealer tries to get you to use synthetic from day one. They almost twist your arm; you have to fight them off. They have no idea about the technology.

Did you know that Thais think you will destroy your car's air conditioner if you run it with the window opened? Go ahead, ask anybody. 555.

Hi all

I bought a non running Yamaha Virago XV 535 recently. Just had the engine rebuilt by a good engineer who I respect as he does know his onions about big bikes. Went back to get the oil changed at 120Kms and had to be insistent that he changed it, kept saying to me 2000 kms (song pan lo). Anyway he finally did the oil change with mucho grumblo and said he was keeping the oil for his bikes. Fine, his perogative the point is the oil was black and had done its job well. Next oil and filter change at 500kms and every 2000 after that, I'll be doing them myself as I don't want long discussions about it.

Doing the softish break in technique, lots of speed changes and changing down using engine braking and medium acceleration. Haven't taken her past 85 yet or on a long run.

Safe Rides

Edited December 9, 2012 by aitch52

[marstons]

I used to work for a vehicle manufacture which included Piaggio, also Ferrari any engine always told by dealers variation in revs so as not to bed in a continual revs, but a variation for first few hundred miles. Also they all said with today's technology not really any need to run in really. i never did with company cars and rarely had problems with them.

All my new bikes i ride as if they were not new and again get few problems and so far no engine problems.

I do tend to change oil after a few hundred kms when new as if there is going to be in any crap in the system from new engine thats when its likely to be there. Always use semi synthetic oil and change at least every 1000km.

So for me no running process and alls been well over last 10 years with all bikes

[marstons]

Empty plastic containers are not hard to find, Just cut out one side and slide under the scooter or bike and decant the used oil into another one for storage or disposal. Use an old piece of cardboard box as a drip tray or some kitty litter (cheap as chips).

If changing oil at 100 kms do not use synthetic, use regular oil.

Don't switch to synthetic until the bike is well broken in and then off course only use synthetic that has no friction modifiers Ie. Japanese rating method (JASO) MA. If a belt drive scooter you can use any synthetic or oil with friction modifiers JASO MB.

Many oil threads here if you search.

Whats the reasoning behind non synth until well broken in. Synths make sure the piston is lubed up on start up therfore cause less damage where as mineral oils do not do so well. I did work for oil manufacturer so curious as to your reasoning, dont think polishing should be a problem. Just curious thats all.

[VocalNeal]

Not my original idea. Synthetics have better lubricity, which is not necessarily good during break in where one wants to get the components to 'break In". OEM oil is usually not synthetic.

So staying off synthetics until later in the oil change routine leads to the engine being, if you like, looser. Then one changes to synthetics to take advantage of the lubricity in further reducing friction.

My father worked for an oil manufacturer. Not saying it is his idea.

[marstons]

http://carengineoil....-range-of-oils/

http://web.iveco.com/uk/collections/catalogues/Documents/Catalogo%20servizi%20post%20vendita/Synthetic_Oil_Range.pdf

Selenia is Fiat groups brand

This is what we sent the Piaggio and Gilera's out with mostly synths, also the ferraris and massaratti's went out fully synthed.

Iveco trucks semi but the likes of Tesco wanted fully synth in straight away for fuel economy, large fleet running around the clock

Ferrari and Massarrati always fully synthed.

Fiats and Alfa Romoes semi. 10 years since i have been out of it so maybe they changed back to the way things were, but for me magnatec every time and get the OEM crap oil and tyres off ASAP.

OEM is all about cost so no synth will not be in them here in Thailand but as you can see Europe differnt.

So everybody has there own idea's, mine based on what I was told by manufacturers others have there idea's and i bet they all work perfectly well, so just my answers to OP question not trying to say your idea is wrong. As a side obviously do not know your age but you must be a young un if synthetic oil was around in your dads days.

Edited December 10, 2012 by marstons

[blackpanda]

Before in America I used to alway use synthetic oil in my cars. But ever since I been in thailand I haven't seen synthetic oil for sell in thailand.

Does anyone know where you can get grade A synthetic oil e.g. Royal Purple or ENOS

What kind of synthetic oil is made for motorcycles. ELF?? Any good

[taninthai]

Before in America I used to alway use synthetic oil in my cars. But ever since I been in thailand I haven't seen synthetic oil for sell in thailand.

Does anyone know where you can get grade A synthetic oil e.g. Royal Purple or ENOS

What kind of synthetic oil is made for motorcycles. ELF?? Any good

This is what i just got from dirtshop not cheap around 700 bht per litre

Sent from my GT-P7500 using Thaivisa Connect App

Edited December 11, 2012 by taninthai

[blackpanda]

That's a quart bottle right. You get four of those for 700 baht?