The manual calls for: ACEA A5/B5 (prefered), A3/B3 / SAE 5W-30, 5W-40, 10W-40

Which is the best for Thailand: SAE 5W-30 or 5W-40 or 10W-40 ?

Some oil-brand or specific oil preferred (and where to buy ) ?

Can something be wrong ?

Recommended garage in Samui ('m just on vacation here) ?

If me l would (and do) use 10w-40 mineral for a first 1000km, change oil and filter with mineral or what they use and run till ''their'' first service. After use a semi or full synthetic if you intend keeping the motor for many miles.

Of course the thing will probably go on for ever with regular mineral oil changes. .

It's little confusing...if it is a NEW Bt-50/Ranger 2.2 you should do it as the owners manual tells you...go to your dealer after/on your 15K km and they will do it for you...for the price of the oil(synthetic) and maybe some more for the labor...

It's little confusing...if it is a NEW Bt-50/Ranger 2.2

Mazda says an oil change at 5,000 km or 10.000 km is unnecessary and plans an oil change every 20.000 km.

I've had good experiences with a faster oil changes, therefore...

Edited December 16, 201213 yr by albhol

I had my mazda dealer change it at 10,000 km for a bit over 3000 baht. They used the green castrol magnetec pro 5w-30.

I had my mazda dealer change it at 10,000 km for a bit over 3000 baht. They used the green castrol magnetec pro 5w-30.

That helps

The Durateq 'Puma' mill used in BT-50's and Ranger's has a first service due at 15k km and at subsequent 15k intervals. If taken to a dealer service, they will use the recommended lube. If taking it elsewhere, make sure they use Castrol magnetec.

As long as the guarantee is in place,I rather service my truck at the dealer.Otherwise better keep a good records of the service done somewhere else...

I must be old school , any new engine to get the best start in life is to change oil and filter at around 1000km to clear any possible production stuff. Costs little and a wee bit of insurance.

As for 15000km oil and filter change, thats OK if it's synthetic, not if mineral.

I'm an old school too if it comes to engines,but if the manual of your new car says to change oil after 15000 km,I think they must know more about it...BTW,it is a synthetic oil...

I'm an old school too if it comes to engines,but if the manual of your new car says to change oil after 15000 km,I think they must know more about it...BTW,it is a synthetic oil...

For me the manual can say what it likes, first oil fill will be cleaning and helping with ''bedding'' if required, (though the cast iron ring bedding is history now), sooooo out at 1000km, but, you lot can do what you like.

It would be interesting to see if other Ranger and BT-50 owners are getting the engine cleaner additive added and the engine run for 10 minutes BEFORE the old oil is drained, filter changed and new lube pumped in. That was my experience with my first 15k km dealer service. I just checked my oil (around 17,500km now) and it is super-clean looking. A WT owner on the Ranger thread was amazed and how black his oil was looking after about 8k km.

Is Mobil1 5W-30 the same as Castrol Magnatec 5W-30? ie viscosity etc the same, just different brand? Or is there another reason why should stick with Castrol?

I'm sure it's a stupid question, but be gentle, remember it's almost Christmas

Is Mobil1 5W-30 the same as Castrol Magnatec 5W-30? ie viscosity etc the same, just different brand? Or is there another reason why should stick with Castrol?

I'm sure it's a stupid question, but be gentle, remember it's almost Christmas

The oils do the same job by their numbered designation but full synthetic is a looooooong lasting protective thingy. Read the can or use the Net to find out what a fancy name really is.

Is Mobil1 5W-30 the same as Castrol Magnatec 5W-30? ie viscosity etc the same, just different brand? Or is there another reason why should stick with Castrol?

I'm sure it's a stupid question, but be gentle, remember it's almost Christmas

The oils do the same job by their numbered designation but full synthetic is a looooooong lasting protective thingy. Read the can or use the Net to find out what a fancy name really is.

Thanks, I've downloaded the product data sheets for both, so looks like some light bedtime reading for me!

Engine machining and assembly maybe better today than ever before, but if metal parts are rubbing against metal parts I want the grindy little bits out of there!

1000km service, very important.

Engine machining and assembly maybe better today than ever before, but if metal parts are rubbing against metal parts I want the grindy little bits out of there!

1000km service, very important.

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah, a sense backup. I salute you and hope others take notice of engineering facts and NOT some tosh that manufactures put out as a perfect virtually non maintenance machine.

I just checked my oil (around 17,500km now) and it is super-clean looking. A WT owner on the Ranger thread was amazed and how black his oil was looking after about 8k km.

It sounds like your EGR system is blocked or malfunctioning - it's perfectly normal for the oil in a diesel engine to look black because of the soot the EGR system recirculates.

Anyone have any suggestions where to buy oil filters other than the auto dealers? Even mail order would be fine.

Anyone have any suggestions where to buy oil filters other than the auto dealers? Even mail order would be fine.

Oil filters are NOT all equal. . Genuine filters used by main agents are made to a spec. Fram filters are the best in my opinion. No name filters will cause a question mark with me.

Anyone have any suggestions where to buy oil filters other than the auto dealers? Even mail order would be fine.

Oil filters are NOT all equal. . Genuine filters used by main agents are made to a spec. Fram filters are the best in my opinion. No name filters will cause a question mark with me.

My friend have you looked at some read ups on fram filters, although I was looking for motorcycle quality filters the Fram came up in car reviews as the worse as well as motorcycle ones.

Anyone have any suggestions where to buy oil filters other than the auto dealers? Even mail order would be fine.

Oil filters are NOT all equal. . Genuine filters used by main agents are made to a spec. Fram filters are the best in my opinion. No name filters will cause a question mark with me.

My friend have you looked at some read ups on fram filters, although I was looking for motorcycle quality filters the Fram came up in car reviews as the worse as well as motorcycle ones.

Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeell, anything l write here is from my stuff with drag race ''street'' cars and others. I even cut the filters up to see whats been happening. But for sure a few years ago and this manufacturer might be handing over the manufacture to you know where now, but I don't know. They were or are perhaps still the best. I used them all the time until I changed to an Oberg set up with no probs.

Beats me why folks dont just buy the "Genuine Ting". Whats the point of scating around. ?.

Anyone have any suggestions where to buy oil filters other than the auto dealers? Even mail order would be fine.

Oil filters are NOT all equal. . Genuine filters used by main agents are made to a spec. Fram filters are the best in my opinion. No name filters will cause a question mark with me.

My friend have you looked at some read ups on fram filters, although I was looking for motorcycle quality filters the Fram came up in car reviews as the worse as well as motorcycle ones.

Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeell, anything l write here is from my stuff with drag race ''street'' cars and others. I even cut the filters up to see whats been happening. But for sure a few years ago and this manufacturer might be handing over the manufacture to you know where now, but I don't know. They were or are perhaps still the best. I used them all the time until I changed to an Oberg set up with no probs.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XRRgw4B7R-I

Beats me why folks dont just buy the "Genuine Ting". Whats the point of scating around. ?.

Well if the OEM is crap you don't really want it do you.

Beats me why folks dont just buy the "Genuine Ting". Whats the point of scating around. ?.

Well if the OEM is crap you don't really want it do you.

My "OLD SOCK",air n oil fiter systems, never fails. Fits in well with me remoulds.

I watched the vid with interest. For me a steel crimped system is far superior to the use of glue. The crimp is final, glue is heat affected and with a filter nobody knows whats happening till a ''knock'' appears. Never ever had engine failure due to oil stuff with a Fram, or my chums. BUT, as I inferred, we do not know where these top name filters are now made, like most stuff.

I watched the vid with interest. For me a steel crimped system is far superior to the use of glue. The crimp is final, glue is heat affected and with a filter nobody knows whats happening till a ''knock'' appears. Never ever had engine failure due to oil stuff with a Fram, or my chums. BUT, as I inferred, we do not know where these top name filters are now made, like most stuff.

Bit like Marmite.

I watched the vid with interest. For me a steel crimped system is far superior to the use of glue. The crimp is final, glue is heat affected and with a filter nobody knows whats happening till a ''knock'' appears. Never ever had engine failure due to oil stuff with a Fram, or my chums. BUT, as I inferred, we do not know where these top name filters are now made, like most stuff.

Bit like Marmite.

Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo