Is Chiangmai Still A Good Retirement Place?

[super22k]

The Moat surrounding the old city in Chiang Mai is the best part. I always think of Chiang Mai as having little to offer tourists but just outside the city there are many things to do.White water rafting,climbing etc. Maybe better for younger people. All that seems to be on offer for retirees is Temple after Temple after Temple.

Also I have not been able to buy food from stalls because I am a Farang.Once I asked a receptionest if she was employed by a doctor and she replied,"yes,but not for you.Only Thais".They sure like to shoot themselves in the foot.Chiang Mai is quite a nice place to live. But if anyone asked me I would say......its OK.

[WinnieTheKhwai]

Also I have not been able to buy food from stalls because I am a Farang.

Just show your yellow house registration book or Thai driver's license. I'm usually able to convince them to sell me a Khao Phad Kai if I'm polite and smile a lot.

[Just1Voice]

The Moat surrounding the old city in Chiang Mai is the best part. I always think of Chiang Mai as having little to offer tourists but just outside the city there are many things to do.White water rafting,climbing etc. Maybe better for younger people. All that seems to be on offer for retirees is Temple after Temple after Temple.

Also I have not been able to buy food from stalls because I am a Farang.Once I asked a receptionest if she was employed by a doctor and she replied,"yes,but not for you.Only Thais".They sure like to shoot themselves in the foot.Chiang Mai is quite a nice place to live. But if anyone asked me I would say......its OK.

Wow! All I can say is that you appear to be someone with no imagination, ambition, or energy. I'm 64, been here 5+ years, and I can ALWAYS find something to do besides temples, temples, temples. Yeah, I'm married, so that make some difference, but come on, nothing to do? That's hogwash. My guess, and I could be wrong, is that your knowledge of the Thai language is about as good as the English of Somchi the noodle vendor. If that's the case, drag your butt to the YMCA or Warton Language school, both downtown, and learn some basic Thai. Believe me, it helps! If you need a doctor, there's only two things you need to know, and can actually say them in English - "Chiang Mai Ram" or "McCormic Hospital". Just about any tuk tuk drive you meet knows those. Sorry, but to me, anyone who says there is nothing do or see in CM is either too old or too lazy to get off their backside and check things out. And there are a LOT of restaurants serving "farang" food at fairly reasonable prices. My Thai language skills are no where near what I wish they were, but not once have I ever had a problem buying food at ANY food stall or cart. Just point to what you want. How hard is that?

Here's something very simple you might try, if you have a motorbike. Drive all the way around the canal sometime during the day. Drive slow, check things out. Then do the same thing around 9:00 at night. Trust me, it's like you're in a completely different city. You'll see things at night that you miss in the day, and with all the lights, it's actually fun.

I don't mean to sound insulting, but from your comments, you're not only living in the wrong city,but the wrong country. Yes, Thai are racists, xenophobic, and sometime (ok, most of the time) more stubborn and ignorant than a box of rocks, but you learn to deal with it, and even have some fun with it at times.

[super22k]

Why should I go to this trouble just to buy some food? I must stress this is unusual. Most Thai foodsellers are happy to to serve us.

It is just that every year I spend thousands and thousands of dollars in Chiang Mai yet some people seem to want to make me unwelcome. Of course,it is the same old story. They dont want us but they want our money.

But anyway ,the sun is shining,I laugh a lot and I am the happiest man in the world!

[morpho]

<p>I moved to Chiang Mai in August 2011 after retiring in the USA. I'd been coming here since 2002 and planning to retire here for years. Many things I like here and some things I don't. I live relatively cheap here, esp. compared to Bangkok, Phuket, Samui, and Pattaya. I like the size of the place...relatively big city but not too big...and it's still easy to get out to the surrounding countryside.  There's good food here, both farang and Thai.  The nightlife is pretty limited and geared mostly for tourists IMO.  The air quality is horrendous March and April and seems to be getting worse, but I just Leave for Vietnam and/or the Philippines at that time. The Thais here are a mixed bag IMO...some really nice people and some not so nice (esp. high-so Thais who think they are better than most Thais and all farang).  But the city is changing in a big way and fairly quickly in ways that I don't like and I think it's only a matter of months before I pull up and move to another location.  I think one problem for me is that I remember too well the Chiang Mai of 2002-2004 when I was first coming here...and that's the Chiang Mai I was wanting to live in.</p>

Edited April 29, 2013 by morpho

[BlackArtemis]

Why should I go to this trouble just to buy some food? I must stress this is unusual. Most Thai foodsellers are happy to to serve us.

It is just that every year I spend thousands and thousands of dollars in Chiang Mai yet some people seem to want to make me unwelcome. Of course,it is the same old story. They dont want us but they want our money.

But anyway ,the sun is shining,I laugh a lot and I am the happiest man in the world!

Why should they go through the trouble just to sell you some food. They are busy prepping their food, buying ingredients and taking care of daily matters and don't have the spare cash to go to AUA so they can explain what "Moo glorp" is to a random foreigner.

In fact not only can you order food when you learn Thai, but you can actually meet people who want you here and not for your money.

Think of any hobby that you have, then add the ability of being able to speak Thai and BAM you now have something in common with someone who would love to share the same interest with you but may lack the language skills and education to converse with you.

Glad to hear you take it with a smile though, good to look for the sunny days.

[super22k]

Just1voice,Most farangs will know what I mean.After living 35 years in Central London with everything at my fingertips,it is a bit depressing to be refused food. Almost primitive. Where are the Museums? Where are the Theatres? Where are the Cinemas? Where are the Art Galleries? Where are the riverside walks? etc.etc.

Maybe,you are right and I do not belong here in Chiang Mai. The nearest they get to culture is a bar girl vomiting over a pool table.

Still, I have a certain kind of affection for Chiang Mai. It grows on you. I wish it well!

[hellodolly]

I do to.

Where do I get my head examined?

On the south side on the outside of the south west corner of the moat.

Hope it works out for you.

[hellodolly]

The Moat surrounding the old city in Chiang Mai is the best part. I always think of Chiang Mai as having little to offer tourists but just outside the city there are many things to do.White water rafting,climbing etc. Maybe better for younger people. All that seems to be on offer for retirees is Temple after Temple after Temple.

Also I have not been able to buy food from stalls because I am a Farang.Once I asked a receptionest if she was employed by a doctor and she replied,"yes,but not for you.Only Thais".They sure like to shoot themselves in the foot.Chiang Mai is quite a nice place to live. But if anyone asked me I would say......its OK.

Wow! All I can say is that you appear to be someone with no imagination, ambition, or energy. I'm 64, been here 5+ years, and I can ALWAYS find something to do besides temples, temples, temples. Yeah, I'm married, so that make some difference, but come on, nothing to do? That's hogwash. My guess, and I could be wrong, is that your knowledge of the Thai language is about as good as the English of Somchi the noodle vendor. If that's the case, drag your butt to the YMCA or Warton Language school, both downtown, and learn some basic Thai. Believe me, it helps! If you need a doctor, there's only two things you need to know, and can actually say them in English - "Chiang Mai Ram" or "McCormic Hospital". Just about any tuk tuk drive you meet knows those. Sorry, but to me, anyone who says there is nothing do or see in CM is either too old or too lazy to get off their backside and check things out. And there are a LOT of restaurants serving "farang" food at fairly reasonable prices. My Thai language skills are no where near what I wish they were, but not once have I ever had a problem buying food at ANY food stall or cart. Just point to what you want. How hard is that?

Here's something very simple you might try, if you have a motorbike. Drive all the way around the canal sometime during the day. Drive slow, check things out. Then do the same thing around 9:00 at night. Trust me, it's like you're in a completely different city. You'll see things at night that you miss in the day, and with all the lights, it's actually fun.

I don't mean to sound insulting, but from your comments, you're not only living in the wrong city,but the wrong country. Yes, Thai are racists, xenophobic, and sometime (ok, most of the time) more stubborn and ignorant than a box of rocks, but you learn to deal with it, and even have some fun with it at times.

great post. I am 71 and still manage to get out. Have never had any trouble buying food off a cart. I recall reading in Lonely Planet guide book where they are a great place to buy food as you can see how it is handled. In my younger years I worked for a company that remodeled kitchens.If people could see the filth in them they would think twice about eating in them, This was in the states.

I can not speak Thai all though I have taken Thai lessons twice. Language is my weak point along with technology.

I would like to add my view on your last statement.

"but you learn to deal with it, and even have some fun with it at times."

I and they have a lot of fun with it when I accept the blame for being unable to speak Thai or understand what they are saying. As long as I assume it is my fault and laugh about it rather than get mad because they can not understand me. I always remember to thank them in Thai. OK I know a few Thai words just no way will I ever be able to spell them.

Edited April 29, 2013 by hellodolly

[csmith]

Been living in (outskirts of) Chiangmai for 11 years ... plan to be here for at least another eleven.

Warning ... if you live in very remote areas you'll possibly not get the internet connectivity you plan to use to make a living.

If you don't like crowded areas .. then don't go to crowded areas.

Glad I bought the house 15 years ago ... prices are going up, more people, more pollution ... much like the rest of the world I guess..

Everyone is unique ... to really find out the answer to your question come and live here for a few months ... or a year (experience all the seasons)

[csmith]

If you want to get some idea of what is going on in Chiangmai then ask Steve Yarnold "charityrooftopparty at gmail.com" to add you to his weekly emailing list of events ... he does a great job collating stuff.

Unfortunately he doesn't put it online .. just sends out the email.

[WinnieTheKhwai]

All that seems to be on offer for retirees is Temple after Temple after Temple.

Also I have not been able to buy food from stalls because I am a Farang.Once I asked a receptionest if she was employed by a doctor and she replied,"yes,but not for you.Only Thais".They sure like to shoot themselves in the foot.Chiang Mai is quite a nice place to live. But if anyone asked me I would say......its OK.

Wow! All I can say is that you appear to be someone with no imagination, ambition, or energy. I'm 64, been here 5+ years, and I can ALWAYS find something to do besides temples, temples, temples.

My Thai language skills are no where near what I wish they were, but not once have I ever had a problem buying food at ANY food stall or cart. Just point to what you want. How hard is that?

I don't mean to sound insulting, but from your comments, you're not only living in the wrong city,but the wrong country.

So you're positive he's on the right planet, then?

[hellodolly]

If you want to get some idea of what is going on in Chiangmai then ask Steve Yarnold "charityrooftopparty at gmail.com" to add you to his weekly emailing list of events ... he does a great job collating stuff.

Unfortunately he doesn't put it online .. just sends out the email.

Thank you for the address

[AnotherOneAmerican]

I love it here, love it so much I'm buying a house.

[super22k]

I prefer Bangkok to Chiang Mai. Great public transport system. Big Shops.Millions of girls. Exiting and fast.

[Mousehound]

I was only refused service at a roadside stall once and that was because the owner was absolutely run off his feet with orders. I never got the idea that it was because I was farang - I know others that have eaten there.

[Just1Voice]

All that seems to be on offer for retirees is Temple after Temple after Temple.

Also I have not been able to buy food from stalls because I am a Farang.Once I asked a receptionest if she was employed by a doctor and she replied,"yes,but not for you.Only Thais".They sure like to shoot themselves in the foot.Chiang Mai is quite a nice place to live. But if anyone asked me I would say......its OK.

Wow! All I can say is that you appear to be someone with no imagination, ambition, or energy. I'm 64, been here 5+ years, and I can ALWAYS find something to do besides temples, temples, temples.

My Thai language skills are no where near what I wish they were, but not once have I ever had a problem buying food at ANY food stall or cart. Just point to what you want. How hard is that?

I don't mean to sound insulting, but from your comments, you're not only living in the wrong city,but the wrong country.

So you're positive he's on the right planet, then?

Not positive. He said he's from London, and for me, that's a whole different world. lol

[scotinsiam]

I wouldn't recommend anyone to come to Chiang Mai for anything but a holiday. Too polluted now, not just the burning, but the fumes from too many cars in a bowl of a valley. Too much uncontrolled development. Too much noise pollution. There are beautiful places to visit, at the right time of year, but, to be honest, any newbie thinking of settling here needs his / her head examining. And costs are sky rocketing both from inflation within Thailand & the strength of the baht. Mind you, if any newbie wants to buy my wife's house, "Go for it"

+1 on all he said

plus ...

since the past weeks its the hottest spot in thailand 40+ Celsius, no wind (at least in Hang Dong)

somedays the air is so shitty here, you are basically suffocating right on the spot you are,

I am seriosuly considering sometimes leaving thailand forever, just cause my GF doesnt want to move away / outside this hell, by all love, anybody moving to chiang mai should really gets his head examined

I am near Suandok and it was 47C although it was hard to read the thermometer with my gas mask on, the fumes are horrific and if I try to drive to the old City (1 mile) it can take me 2 hours due to the traffic - it's a nightmare I wish I was in Pattaya and breathing the fresh sea air surrounded by the friendly locals there

[Just1Voice]

Just1voice,Most farangs will know what I mean.After living 35 years in Central London with everything at my fingertips,it is a bit depressing to be refused food. Almost primitive. Where are the Museums? Where are the Theatres? Where are the Cinemas? Where are the Art Galleries? Where are the riverside walks? etc.etc.

Maybe,you are right and I do not belong here in Chiang Mai. The nearest they get to culture is a bar girl vomiting over a pool table.

Still, I have a certain kind of affection for Chiang Mai. It grows on you. I wish it well!

Ok, CM may not be big on musems, art galleries and live theaters, but as for cinemas you got to choices, Kad Suan Kaew Mall or Airport Central (which I prefer), where you'll find they have everything that the best cinemas I've found in the US have. Go to the website for Major Cineplex and check it out. But to me, the first thing you have to get out of your head is comparing CM to London. That doesn't even qualify for the "Apples & Oranges" category. More like the opening monolog for The Twilight Zone - "You unlock this door with the key of imagination. Beyond it is another dimension - a dimension of sound, a dimension of sight, a dimension of mind. You're moving into a land of both shadow and substance, of things and ideas. You've just crossed over into THAILAND." And if you appreciate art, there is one temple here - I'll have to ask my wife the name of it - that has a long tunnel you walk through that has some of the most beautiful, most amazing paintings in regards to the life of Lord Buddha that you will see anywhere. Make sure you take your camera.

You're in a different world, with different ideas and ideologies, different ways of thinking that are going to clash with your "proper British upbringing". If you can't adapt, if you can't accept it for what it is, then I'm sorry, but you don't belong here. You can't change Chiang Mai, but Chiang Mai WILL change you. For better or worse is up to you.

[MESmith]

I wouldn't recommend anyone to come to Chiang Mai for anything but a holiday. Too polluted now, not just the burning, but the fumes from too many cars in a bowl of a valley. Too much uncontrolled development. Too much noise pollution. There are beautiful places to visit, at the right time of year, but, to be honest, any newbie thinking of settling here needs his / her head examining. And costs are sky rocketing both from inflation within Thailand & the strength of the baht. Mind you, if any newbie wants to buy my wife's house, "Go for it"

Are you recommending another country than Thailand.

I'm not a travel agent.

[puukao]

I like Chiang Mai, but only about 2 months a year, or less. When the local farang pastime is trying to avoid the heat and smog, there is a problem. When your entire day revolves around avoiding the sun and smoke, well, that isn't good. anyhow, walking around is nice at night; however, you always have to pay attention and are likely always in somebody's way. it's cheap, but you get what you pay for. cheap food and cheap lodging, to me, is just survival mode. not fun mode. there are lots of tourists, and most won't want you to look at them; however, that is fine. it's a younger city, but don't think you are back in high school. and I hate buying water daily. or worrying about water. and your rights and freedoms are pretty restricted versus your own country.

on the plus side: when the weather is nice, it's fantastic. it's easy to talk to anyone. it's laid back. it's cheap. it's cooler in the mountains. the mountains are pretty. the girls are pretty. there is really no crime, relatively.

next time I go back.....if I do.....maybe 1 week. in the entire world, there are better places.

[maybefitz]

maybefitz, on 29 Apr 2013 - 12:39, said:

I live 70k north of Chiang Mai, on the way to Phrao. I have lived here for 12 years and it's perfect. The air pollution nowhere near as bad as CM city.

I sincerely doubt it. Unless that area is somehow different from everywhere else in the North that has air quality monitoring stations, (Mae Hong Son, Chiang Rai, Phayao, Phrae, Lamphun, Lampang, Chiang Mai) or people making personal observations (Mae Taeng, Pai).

You could really see the surrounding mountains clearly in late March?

Indeed, Winnie - I could see Doi Luang, and had to cross the adjacent mountain pass on route 1001 on the way to CM city. It was noticeable that the nearer one got to the city, the less one could see of Doi Suthep - so yes, in my opinion the air in the Long Khod valley was better. Please don't get me wrong, it was still a bit murky and probably difficult for someone with breathing problems - but I survived.It's now completely clear following a drop of rain 2 days ago.

[maidu]

Interesting to note how many posts start out stating, "I like Chiang Mai, but...." or "I love living here, but....." after the but, there are lists of drawbacks. It's almost like saying, "I'm married and (speaker thinking' 'I'm supposed to say this, because we're stuck with each other'), I love her, but......" Then we hear some of the grim realities.

Alternatively, you might find a place to pitch your tent which is genuinely good, and you won't have to add a bunch of ifs and buts and should haves and could haves - to justify residing there.

[Ulysses G.]

If you search the internet forums about other countries, you will see it is exactly the same for the better places to live. People are never satisfied.

[Loptr]

Just1voice,Most farangs will know what I mean.After living 35 years in Central London with everything at my fingertips,it is a bit depressing to be refused food. Almost primitive. Where are the Museums? Where are the Theatres? Where are the Cinemas? Where are the Art Galleries? Where are the riverside walks? etc.etc.

Maybe,you are right and I do not belong here in Chiang Mai. The nearest they get to culture is a bar girl vomiting over a pool table.

Still, I have a certain kind of affection for Chiang Mai. It grows on you. I wish it well!

In London, New York, Sidney, etc. When moving to a 2nd or 3rd world country, you have to be prepared to give something up for the lifestyle you seek. If you find that you miss the amenities of the west too much, then you can always catch the next flight out.

Perhaps CM and Thailand aren't for you.

[AnotherOneAmerican]

If you search the internet forums about other countries, you will see it is exactly the same for the better places to live. People are never satisfied.

I'm satisfied!

[Ulysses G.]

I am satisfied with living in Thailand too, but in general, there is a lot of complaining on internet forums. I kept reading about how much better Laos/Cambodia/Vietnam/South America was on Thai Visa, but when I searched local forums for those supposed nirvanas, there were far more complaints than here.

[Loptr]

I am satisfied with living in Thailand too, but in general, there is a lot of complaining on internet forums. I kept reading about how much better Laos/Cambodia/Vietnam/South America was on Thai Visa, but when I searched local forums for those supposed nirvanas, there were far more complaints than here.

The number or users and volume of traffic on these expat sites gives you some insight too as to where people a living in exile from their homelands. Far more traffic on the Thai-centric sites than anywhere else in SEA.

[jackr]

the booming voices of the Yeropians

I'm now in Bangkok. No smoke issues. No noise issues. Lots to do. The airport is nearby with easy access and cheap flights EVERYWHERE. Immigration is a bit removed, but they're very efficient. The US Embassy is well organized, efficient and happy

Louder than the booming voices of the 'Mericans even?

For all its cons, I'm pretty sure ole CM will always be a BIG ONE-up from baby Bkk. No smoke and no noise, eh; next you'll be telling us that the quaint 'Venice of the East' has a wonderful network of canals (and that San Saeb is great for a dip), there are no traffic issues on upper Suk, no beggars, taxi drivers are saints and never refuse the meter and it is the cheapest place to rent in the kingdom... eh what what!

[dave2]

re

if you appreciate art, there is one temple here - I'll have to ask my wife the name of it - that has a long tunnel you walk through that has some of the most beautiful, most amazing paintings in regards to the life of Lord Buddha that you will see anywhere.

wat u mong .. off suthep road : )

dave2