Please help me understand Thai house electricals...

[dighambara]

Good question, I'm confused too. My house has all 3 pin sockets but my my wife is convinced they aren't earthed. Just because there are 3 holes doesn't mean there is an earth, does it? I suppose I'd better open one up and see but anything to with electricity scares me as I've been shocked a few times.

We have some appliances earthed using the copper tube bought from 'Do Home' in Khon Kaen.

krisb, I'm looking for a good sparky too, if I find one I'll let you know.

I see tradesmen advertised on a board outside Thai Watsadu. Homepro are very good for explaining things and you can buy sickets and stuff at any of the home stores I think.

T.I.T. I have dealt with 3 'Master' Electricians (Chang) and none knew as much as I do...!!! Houses may be wired in any color combination - I have seen colors reversed in two sides of the same panel Gray = Hot, White = Neutral, Green = Ground (Earth for Europeans) and inches away, Gray = Neutral, with White = Hot....

[David48]

You occasionally get some nuisance tripping when a Washing Machine is involved ... or should I say ... used to.

We have an outside washing machine which my wife has grounded by sticking a copper thing into the ground and attaching it to the washer - does this sound ok? Embarrassing as she knows more than I do.

You have a smart wife. In Australia, washing machines used to be the #1 killer (electrical) and knives in toasters #2.

My only concern would be on the connecter attaching the Metal shell of the Washing machine to the earth wire somehow got corroded or rusted, given the amount of water that splashes around.

That said ... she's streets ahead of the pack with that thinking ...

Neeranam,

> Lower amps, isn't it, which would if I remember from Physics, higher voltage?

Not sure what you are trying to say. UK uses 240 Volts, same as Thailand.

For a given resistance (eg your body) higher Volts means HIGHER Current.

Couple of little things from the above as you are close ... but no cigar.

Thailand actually uses 220 volt not 240 volt like in both Australia and the UK (and maybe other places).

But, importantly ... we (Thai, UK, Aus) all use 50 cycles ... wheres the USA uses 115 or 120 Volts and 60 cycles (from memory).

The difference from 240 Volts down to 220 Volts is not usually important as the service variation (in Australia) is 10% above or below 240 volts.

As for the Amperage/Voltage as described above ... that one's not close.

The ELCB's are set to trip at 30 milliamps

[David48]

Read the document I linked to in post 12, this one:

http://www.crossy.co.uk/Handy%20Files/groundwire.pdf

It's in Thai but the diagrams are quite clear.

Just a quick heads up about Crossy's file ... It's over 15 mb in size so it does take a little while to download.

[Phuket electrician]

Chang is a generic term for worker, chang fai far - worker electric, chang - Elephant. As far as I know. Mind you I don't know anything.

Edited September 4, 2013 by Phuket electrician

[David48]

Chang is a generic term for worker, chang fai far - worker electric, chang - Elephant. As far as I know. Mind you I don't know anything.

What's that in relation to?

[tingtong]

krisb,

we just had the house electricity pretty much re-wired, as the old one kept melting plugs, or had sparks when plugged things in...

the total cost same to 30.000thb for the 3 days work, (team of 3) included the materials...were some new lights installed, though nothing fancy, the old neons also changed, bathroom water heater, new booster pump to the water installed. all work is outside the wall, but nicely done, not just hanging there all the cables as kind a was before. (hard concrete wall, but not thick enough to try to make things invisible).

i am happy with the work, and to be honest, thai "professionals" rarely make me feel good with their job.

as for the square meter amount, well, i think it more depends on the number of plugs and lights and ceiling fans, etc, to hook up.

but the total area must be about 200m2, plus some light outside, about 18 power points total?

we are about 65km from Khon Kaen.

[Phuket electrician]

T.I.T. I have dealt with 3 'Master' Electricians (Chang)

I might not know anything but I can just about read.

[Neeranam]

Chang is a generic term for worker, chang fai far - worker electric, chang - Elephant. As far as I know. Mind you I don't know anything.

Actually chang for elephant is a different word- different spelling and tone.

The chang for mechanic engineer etc also means "to be fond of" when used as a prefix.

But also Chang man means 'forget it'.

Edited September 4, 2013 by Neeranam

[Neeranam]

Neeranam,

> Lower amps, isn't it, which would if I remember from Physics, higher voltage?

Not sure what you are trying to say. UK uses 240 Volts, same as Thailand.

For a given resistance (eg your body) higher Volts means HIGHER Current.

> We have an outside washing machine which my wife has grounded by sticking a copper thing into the ground and attaching it to the washer - does this sound ok?

Sounds fine if it's been done properly.

Higher voltage means lower current if R = V/R (Ohm's Law).

So in the USA, lower voltage means higher current and the current is what kills people, I thought.

[wpcoe]

Crossy and other knowledgable folks here were very helpful getting my rented Hua Hin townhouse earthed and a bit safer. Future tenants will now benefit, as well, since I am moving back into my condo.

I "never got around to" actually fixing the electrics in the condo, but now have a heightened awareness and sense of urgency:

There is *nothing* attached to the earth/ground bar. (All those wires pass behind the bar, nothing is attached to it.)

Issue #1: If I understand correctly, at a bare minimum, the neutral wire should be routed via the ground bar. I'm *assuming* the white wire is the neutral.

Issue #2: Also, in the bare minimum category, an ELCB should be installed. I would be okay with one just on the main power switch. If something tripped it, it would shut off power to the entire condo unit -- it's not as bad as having a multi-story sprawling mansion lose all power at once.

Issue #2a: The writing on the 12 individual breakers are: 4 @ C16, 4 @ C20, and 4 @ C32. The main cut-off switch says M10. What size ELCB should I buy?

Issue #2b: The current main switch is a single, should I buy a double-width ELCB? (Obviously I don't know what single vs double means/does, but want to learn.)

Issue #3: IIRC from past threads, I should be able to rely on the metal trusses supporting the roof as having a direct path to the ground, and hence can attach a ground wire to one of them and connect it to the ground bar in the CU. I'm on the top floor of my building and it's just open air above the gypsum/drywall ceiling so access will be fairly easy.

Issue #4: Then I just need to have individual earth/ground wires run from outlets/fixtures to the ground bar.

Issue #5: Other than the aircons and water heater, I want to earth/ground the outlets for my computer, TV, kitchen, washing machine and dryer. Is it generally okay that indoor ceiling fans and light fixtures don't have earthing/grounding -- nice, but not necessary?

Am I on the right track? I'm open to corrections to my current (no pun intended) thinking, and to other options.

Once I get things sorted in my mind, then I need to find an electrician who I can trust to do what I need.

On a side note, I'm curious about the comments about the power outlets here not having switches. I'm from the USA and it's rare to see an outlet with a switch for that outlet. Is it commonplace (required?) in other parts of the world?

I was going to start a new thread but I think my situation is in spirit with the OP and the flow of discussion. (If mods disagree, PM me, and I'll start a new thread.)

[bkksiam]

Mark Prado provides an excellent overview of electricity and the issue of grounding here:

http://www.thailandguru.com/electricity-220volts-thailand.html

Here is part of what he wrote:

"Just because there are three prongs, you cannot assume the receptacle is wired properly. Sometime in the mid to late 1990s, buildings under construction started offering receptacles with 3 prongs, due to increased enforcement of safety standards. Nevertheless, less than half of those I test are actually wired properly..... If is strongly recommended that if you use electric hot water showers, clothes washing machines, and other water based electrical appliances that you ground them, and ground them properly."

[krisb]

Mark Prado provides an excellent overview of electricity and the issue of grounding here:

http://www.thailandguru.com/electricity-220volts-thailand.html

 

Here is part of what he wrote:

"Just because there are three prongs, you cannot assume the receptacle is wired properly. Sometime in the mid to late 1990s, buildings under construction started offering receptacles with 3 prongs, due to increased enforcement of safety standards. Nevertheless, less than half of those I test are actually wired properly..... If is strongly recommended that if you use electric hot water showers, clothes washing machines, and other water based electrical appliances that you ground them, and ground them properly."

That's a scary thought. Using 1 of those electric Thai style water heaters that's not earthed.

[JohanB]

Just one tip that we used to recommend.

Don't use the ELCB on the fridge circuit.

Separately wire one circuit, just for the fridge and EARTH it.

the reason being is that you go away for a week-end or a week's holiday and the neighbour (who has secretly tapped into your supply or a friend who fe3eds your cat etc has tripped the ELCB and now your Sirloin Steak bought for 800 baht a kilo is now a shade of green and not fit for the neighbours dog (who you dislike).

You occasionally get some nuisance tripping when a Washing Machine is involved ... or should I say ... used to.

A very good recommendation.

I've done the same in my installations (2 houses).

Freezer and fridge connected before the RCB (Residual Current Breaker)

A heafty thunder storm will many times tripp the RCB, especially if you have garden lights with digged down long wires connected to it.

Edited September 4, 2013 by JohanB

[Phuket electrician]

As I mentioned - never met good one.

[JohanB]

Read the document I linked to in post 12, this one:

http://www.crossy.co.uk/Handy%20Files/groundwire.pdf

It's in Thai but the diagrams are quite clear.

I´m very surprised you (they) recommend grounding to neutral connection AND grounding rod in the wiring diagrams.

I thougt the standard installation recommended in Thailand is T-T with no connection between incoming neutral and the ground rod.

Otherwise why do you need a grounding rod?

I usally have around 11 VAC on the neutral and that will corrode and eat upp my grounding rod in a short time.

Also adding to my electric bill...

There is another more serious reason too:

Most houses in Thailand are connected to the mains through over-head 1 phase power lines.

My first built small house is situated around 150 meters from the meter pole and there are 6 concrete poles carrying 2x 16mm2 copper wires to the house.

When we arrived one time a couple of years ago, and I were doing some measuring for extending the installation, I noticed that the neutral and live were altered in the house.

The reason was very horrifying but understandable...

It was a tree that had fallen down and cut my power lines to the house. Our house keeper had it fixed by some local electrican.

But he had switched the wires so the neutral was carrying mains voltage....!!

If I had "grounded" my shower and AC etc in the incomming neutral it would have been a death trap!!

Even if there were a 2 meter ground rod installed, it can not short-circuit the mains live current.

The earth around the rod, the wire or connection to the ground rod will fry and leave live voltage to all "earted" installations.

Also a correctly installed RCB (ECLB)would not be of any help as there is no fuse in that connection.

The ground rod can not be connected after the RCB as the residual current between neutral and ground will trip it very quick.

Johan

[Crossy]

@Johan.

I too am not a great lover of TN-C-S on aerial feeds, mainly because of the hazards of an open neutral, but also (as you found) as a result of idiot repairs.

Many older Thai installations are TT and quite a lot are IT, but all new installations are required to be TN-C-S with MEN (Multiple Earthed Neutral) and a local rod. This is the system which is required by law in Australia (No TT permitted). A new installation that is not wired as per the diagrams may not pass inspection for permanent supply.

If your home is TT fine, but do ensure you have earth leakage protection (an RCD) as a L-E fault likely won't take out an MCB (and all your 'earthed' metalwork will become hazardous / lethal).

AC on your ground rod won't cause severe corrosion, it's only DC that promotes that (hence we go to a lot of trouble keeping DC rail traction currents where they should be, and not flowing through the re-bar of the structures).

[Crossy]

condo_cu.jpg

There is *nothing* attached to the earth/ground bar. (All those wires pass behind the bar, nothing is attached to it.)

Issue #1: If I understand correctly, at a bare minimum, the neutral wire should be routed via the ground bar. I'm *assuming* the white wire is the neutral.

Issue #2: Also, in the bare minimum category, an ELCB should be installed. I would be okay with one just on the main power switch. If something tripped it, it would shut off power to the entire condo unit -- it's not as bad as having a multi-story sprawling mansion lose all power at once.

Issue #2a: The writing on the 12 individual breakers are: 4 @ C16, 4 @ C20, and 4 @ C32. The main cut-off switch says M10. What size ELCB should I buy?

Issue #2b: The current main switch is a single, should I buy a double-width ELCB? (Obviously I don't know what single vs double means/does, but want to learn.)

Issue #3: IIRC from past threads, I should be able to rely on the metal trusses supporting the roof as having a direct path to the ground, and hence can attach a ground wire to one of them and connect it to the ground bar in the CU. I'm on the top floor of my building and it's just open air above the gypsum/drywall ceiling so access will be fairly easy.

Issue #4: Then I just need to have individual earth/ground wires run from outlets/fixtures to the ground bar.

Issue #5: Other than the aircons and water heater, I want to earth/ground the outlets for my computer, TV, kitchen, washing machine and dryer. Is it generally okay that indoor ceiling fans and light fixtures don't have earthing/grounding -- nice, but not necessary?

#1. Don't start messing around with the incoming supply unless you KNOW your apartment block is intended to be TN-C-S (MEN). The white should indeed be the neutral, but check before you do anything, reversed polarity is worryingly common.

#2 You can replace your main switch with a RCBO, that's an RCD that incorporates over-current protection, Square-D do a range that is a direct replacement in your board. Match the current rating to your main switch. Or you could add a front end RCD in the form of a Safe-T-Cut before your main switch.

#3 Using building steelwork is a lot better than nothing (Google Ufer Ground), particularly if you have RCD protection, if your water supply is metal, link to that too.

#4 Yes, enjoy getting them in.

#5 99% of Thai lighting circuits are un-grounded, if the fittings and fans are out of reach there's no reason to add grounds unless it's easy.

[Anon999]

A post providing misinformation and replies to it have been removed.

To correct what was said in that post:

Thailand uses a 3-phase 4-wire distribution system with a nominal Neutral-Phase voltage of 220V. The neutral is earthed at the transformer and (on new installations) at multiple points along the run (every 3rd pole or so) forming a MEN (Multiple earthed Neutral) system. A link between earth and neutral is also provided in the distribution box where the supply enters the premises.

Single phase installations are supplied from the neutral and one phase.

Both single and 3-phase meters are available as 15, 45 and 100 Amp variants, choose the supply and meter to suit your supply requirements.

Crossy. submitted a list of all the electrical items to the local supply company and they came back with what we needed. Stated 3 phase in our case so no need to work it out yourself

[Anon999]

Some good points made above.

To answer our OP:

"What's up with not using 3 plug power points?"

There's nothing inherently hazardous about a 2-pin system, just because there's no ground doesn't mean you're going to die. Many, many modern appliances are Class-2 (double insulated) and do not require a ground in order to be safe, they invariably have 2-pin plugs and usually, plastic casework.

The above is true UNTIL someone plugs in an appliance that requires a ground (Class-1), these usually have metal casework and will invariably have a 3-pin plug. Example of Class-1 appliances are, washing machines, microwaves, water heaters, air-conditioners and your desktop computer. Plug in a Class-1 appliance without a ground and all bets are off (desktop computers particularly, can bite if operated ungrounded).

As has been noted earlier all new installations must have grounded 3-pin outlets and be protected by an RCD (earth leakage protection). The electrical inspector may refuse to certify your system if it doesn't meet these minimum requirements, this will mean you're stuck on a temporary supply and paying double for your power.

This PEA document has some very good information for your sparks http://www.crossy.co.uk/Handy%20Files/groundwire.pdf notice how the incoming neutral is routed via the ground bar, this is the standard Thai means of implementing MEN your inspector will be looking for this configuration and may fail the installation if it's not done exactly like the diagrams. Incidentally, this is the same configuration as the US NEC requires.

"Where do I find a good sparky to hire in/near KK?"

Sorry can't help there

"Should a sparky be liscensed?"

In Thailand? I don't believe there is any form of licensing system in place (at least not for domestic sparkies)

"Where do I buy quality switches and points?"

Any of the big name DIY retailers (Homepro, Homeworks, Boonthavorn etc) and there are a multitude of electrical specialist shops, have a look around

"What sort of prices to wire up a 300sq/m house approx?"

Sorry can't help there, our sparks (we used up four) was included in the cost of the build

Bought a new Siemens washing machine very recently, made in Germany, it sported a 3 pin moulded on plug with the earth pin absent. Investigation showed 3 core cable so cut it off and fitted a 3 pin UK fused plug. Water and no earth doesn't appeal to me.

A further note is that in my old Thai rent house there were some 3 pin sockets.

[Crossy]

Bought a new Siemens washing machine very recently, made in Germany, it sported a 3 pin moulded on plug with the earth pin absent. Investigation showed 3 core cable so cut it off and fitted a 3 pin UK fused plug. Water and no earth doesn't appeal to me.

That would have been a Schuko plug, the pin isn't missing, it's part of the mating socket (in the French version, the German version uses the side clips). Adaptors are available to add the 'missing' pin (sadly the hole doesn't line up with the ground pin on a Thai outlet).

Look here http://www.crossy.co.uk/wiring/plugs.html

[khunPer]

@wpcoe

Issue #2a: The writing on the 12 individual breakers are: 4 @ C16, 4 @ C20, and 4 @ C32. The main cut-off switch says M10. What size ELCB should I buy?

May I suggest you place individual ELCBs at each circuit in need of one (mainly the ones for something with water, like waters heaters, washing machine, dishwasher etc.) instead of a master protection? In case a single unit fails, the master will disconnect your whole system. If not at home, you may loose the content of your fridge/freezer. Also best to keep water-heaters (and other equipment you cannot easily disconnect with a plug) at separate circuits, so you don’t loose light and other electric supply, if a water-heater fails.

Issue#1 & #4:

I will not recommend connecting neutral and earthing together in the breaker box. To my knowledge, earth shall go directly to “earth” in your domestic installation.

Issue #5: Other than the aircons and water heater, I want to earth/ground the outlets for my computer, TV, kitchen, washing machine and dryer. Is it generally okay that indoor ceiling fans and light fixtures don't have earthing/grounding -- nice, but not necessary?

Stationary computers like to be earthed (you may sometime feel a current when touching the metal chassis). TV-sets and DVD-players may be supplied without earth. A good protection is to use a surge-plug and/or an UPS, the latter will keep the device running during the small power breaks. UPS will not work for old-fashioned tube-TVs and plasma screens, as they use too much power. Some kitchen appliances come with earth and are of course good to earth. Some lighting, fx. some brands of ceiling lamps, comes with an earth connection. If earth-wire is available for your safety, why not use it?

-----

Concerning Euro plugs, with earth pin absent. It is easy to replace with a good quality Thai 3-pin plug, costs about 50 baht. European wiring color-codes may often be red, brown or black as live, blue as neutral and green/orange for earth. Normally Thai wiring will be white for neutral, green for earth and any other color may be live; however, you can never be sure of the color codes in a pre-existing installation.

Changing live and neutral may not be a problem – you don’t know what is live and what is neutral in a 2-pin plug – however, best (safe) to switch off the live wire rather than neutral in you wall switches.

And yes, a 3-pin outlet socket may not mean it is earthed, just that you can plug in a 3-pin plug. You can actually buy extension sockets from 2-pin to 3-pin plugs, and of course earth do not suddenly appear from nowhere.

Edited September 5, 2013 by khunPer

[Phuket electrician]

Some good advice. Yet all seems academic doesn't it?

Water heaters have a built in ELCB.

All appliances purchased here are two pin, and the house wiring is L&N.

Thai guys don't understand the need for an earth or comprehend English language. They do know how to 'agree' when a farang suggest installing expensive equipment.

Safety-cut is a contradiction as a member has said. And it's illegal for a foreigner to do electrical work on his own or another's property.

The electricity supply has a proclivity to fluctuate wildly at times and any perceived safety device is more likely than not made in China for a European manufacturer.

TIT is't not real, it's all for show.

[wpcoe]

condo_cu.jpg

There is *nothing* attached to the earth/ground bar. (All those wires pass behind the bar, nothing is attached to it.)

Issue #1: If I understand correctly, at a bare minimum, the neutral wire should be routed via the ground bar. I'm *assuming* the white wire is the neutral.

Issue #2: Also, in the bare minimum category, an ELCB should be installed. I would be okay with one just on the main power switch. If something tripped it, it would shut off power to the entire condo unit -- it's not as bad as having a multi-story sprawling mansion lose all power at once.

Issue #2a: The writing on the 12 individual breakers are: 4 @ C16, 4 @ C20, and 4 @ C32. The main cut-off switch says M10. What size ELCB should I buy?

Issue #2b: The current main switch is a single, should I buy a double-width ELCB? (Obviously I don't know what single vs double means/does, but want to learn.)

Issue #3: IIRC from past threads, I should be able to rely on the metal trusses supporting the roof as having a direct path to the ground, and hence can attach a ground wire to one of them and connect it to the ground bar in the CU. I'm on the top floor of my building and it's just open air above the gypsum/drywall ceiling so access will be fairly easy.

Issue #4: Then I just need to have individual earth/ground wires run from outlets/fixtures to the ground bar.

Issue #5: Other than the aircons and water heater, I want to earth/ground the outlets for my computer, TV, kitchen, washing machine and dryer. Is it generally okay that indoor ceiling fans and light fixtures don't have earthing/grounding -- nice, but not necessary?

#1. Don't start messing around with the incoming supply unless you KNOW your apartment block is intended to be TN-C-S (MEN). The white should indeed be the neutral, but check before you do anything, reversed polarity is worryingly common.

#2 You can replace your main switch with a RCBO, that's an RCD that incorporates over-current protection, Square-D do a range that is a direct replacement in your board. Match the current rating to your main switch. Or you could add a front end RCD in the form of a Safe-T-Cut before your main switch.

#3 Using building steelwork is a lot better than nothing (Google Ufer Ground), particularly if you have RCD protection, if your water supply is metal, link to that too.

#4 Yes, enjoy getting them in.

#5 99% of Thai lighting circuits are un-grounded, if the fittings and fans are out of reach there's no reason to add grounds unless it's easy.

First of all, rest assured *I* don't plan to be attempting any of the changes. I know enough to know that I don't know enough.

I had a friend over today and explained to him what I wanted to do. He looked at my CU and said the vertical bar to the left of the main breaker has the Neutral line fed through it, so in effect do I already have a MEN set up?

(IF I already have a MEN setup, why do I get tingles from my computer case? Shouldn't that stray current be finding its way back to mother earth via the PEA wiring? Or, is it not safe to assume that the PEA neutral is actually earthed at the pole? Is that part of what you meant by being sure my "apartment block is intended to be TN-C-S (MEN)"?)

He offered to go up into the "attic space" under the roof above my unit and attach an earth wire to the roof truss and feed it down into my unit. He did an earth wire to the roof truss in another unit and said it works.

He said to run the earth wire from the roof truss to the top earth/bround bar in my CU, as I had planned, but said if I were to bridge that horizontal earth/ground bar with the vertical one beside the main breaker, it would earth everything? (Something may have gotten lost in the translation, but I think that's what he meant.) However I just read above that you shouldn't mix earthing and MEN (if in fact, I have MEN)? I'm still inclined to stick with my Plan A: Attach the ground wire from the roof truss to the horizontal earth/ground bar, and only attach to that bar earth/ground wires from the items I want grounded, but what do I know?

He also pointed out that the green wire in the CU is attached to a screw which attaches the CU to the wall. Obviously *that* does nothing. He thinks it's the green wire from my water heater. I tend to agree because I don't have any other green wires that I know of. That would be the first candidate for the earth/ground bar after we attach to the roof truss.

The current master switch has a 45 etched into the switch. So I look for a Square-D RCBO with a 45, as well? (45 amps?)

I appreciate the concern for my fridge when using a whole-house (condo) RCBO that when it trips takes all the power with it. I rarely keep anything more than chilled beverages in there, any way. This is a small 2-bedroom (76sq m, including large balcony) condo, so while it would be an inconvenience to lose power all at once, it would be tolerable.

My friend said there was no need to earth/ground the air cons. Considering how rarely I actually come into physical contact with one (only use remote), are they like the indoor lights/fans: things really not needing to have earthed/grounded? He had a point: How/where would the earth wire be attached to the air con? On an installed air con unit, the electrical connections are behind the wall mounted evaporator, no? I'm planning to replace one of them fairly soon, and can have the earth lead from the electrical connection to the air con unit fed into the attic space.

[Phuket electrician]

WPCOE hahahaaaaaa - chang!

[Phuket electrician]

If the N & E are connected in your electrical installation and your neighbor has an electrical problem within his/her electrical installation - you also have a problem because you are ostensibly connected to his/her installation.

To confirm this - take your shoes off - stand at the kitchen sink and turn on the tap. Put a sensitive part of your body under the running water coming out of the tap!

Can you feel a tingle?

Edited September 5, 2013 by Phuket electrician

[Muhendis]

Wow WPCOE. What a mess. I would get a phase tester and check that live and neutral are as they should be before connecting anything to that neutral. When staying in some hotels I have sometimes noticed the 50Hz vibration when lightly brushing the tips of my fingers against the fridge. A sure sign of no earth but not necessarily a fault. I'm not too sure that fixing a wire to the house steelwork will be the complete answer but there is a satisfactory alternative...........Move to a safe house.

[Phuket electrician]

Muhendis -I would get a phase tester and check that live and neutral

Wpcoe wrote: 'First of all, rest assured *I* don't plan to be attempting any of the changes. I know enough to know that I don't know enough'

[wpcoe]

Okay, now.. Which setting is best on the phase tester: stun or kill?

[Litlos]

A handy hint for the OP is not to insist on 3 wire cable with an inbuilt earth as it might be very expensive. A 2 core cable plus an earth wire will do exactly the same job, and possibly a lot cheaper.

The latest is RCBO which is the newer version of an ELCB/RCD/GFCI. Whilst a Safe-t Cut protects the whole house it can be problematic with nuisance trips. A better solution is use RCBO's on specific circuits rated for the use. eg 10mA on normal power outlets, but 30mA or higher on hot water systems and cooking elements. A few RCBO's in the switchboard may help solve a few problems.

Cheers

[Crossy]

@WPCOE You do not have a MEN connection, it's pure TT.

Do NOT that's NOT make any connection between your N and E lines, you do not know if the distribution system is set up for MEN. If it is not and you provide the link you are introducing a serious potential hazard.

Run a wire from your roof trusses to the top (earth) bar, and connect your ground requiring devices to there.

Yes, a 45A RCBO is the correct device, I'll have a look in the Square-D catalog for the device you need.