leak proof an upper Patio floor/wall joint

[gdhm]

Hi,

I have mentioned this in a electrical post but it is better to start a new Post.

We found that water has leaked into a porch entrance ceiling area. Facing our house the upper Patio is over a downstairs room (only) it is not over the porch However, the porch shares its right wall with the room below the upper patio.

The room below the patio is showing NO sign of any leaks ANYWHERE in its suspended ceiling even along the wall shared with the porch (which I examined VERY CAREFULLY) .

The area of the Upper Patio where the leak MUST being coming from sometimes "ponds" up when birds drop their nest building materials, slimy algae forms and the close-by drain hole blocks (and we seldom visit patio to notice). An air con also vents water along suspect area.

The water that has accumulated down Porch wall from just one night's rainfall of a few hours after leak discovered (and drain unblocked and pond run off (and excess water removed from porch damaged ceiling form previous rainfall leaks) was about a ½ pint I'd guess . We have noted two drip/tiny trickle locations in the cavity ceiling & wall area of porch. I cannot see obvious major cracks in the grouting in the upper patio to explain the leaks BUT FEEL SURE THAT IS THE CAUSE as I see NO OTHER way rain water can get into the porch.

In summary

No rain no leak is confirmed.

No water pipes area anywhere near the upper patio area

The leak area has a 1 metre eaves above it.

I am 99.9% certain the leak is NOT from around the patio down drain as this pipe travels down a column and there is ZERO signs of dampness around the column area in the porches ceiling cavity

Below Here are some photos. As you can see the air-con outside unit will restrict access for repairs.

I am not wishing to remove tiles and do a major job unless trying to stop the leak by quicker means proves ineffective. The fact that the room below the upper patio is showing no sign of leak on its side on the shared wall with porch suggest to me the leak is located in the immediate upper patio tiled floor & wall joint area along the floor wall joint (maximum length about 3-4 metres.

I am NO DIY person so will not do task myself but I need to have an idea (to ensure a cowboy does not BS me due to my ignorance).

My instinct (experts/professional here may laugh but I am trying to think this through so forgive my ignorance):

a) any cracks in the tile grouting ( I see two along the joint) or diminished tile grouting needs re grouting.

a water proof solution (if there is such a thing ) should be painted all along the floor/wall joint so it can hopefully follow the leak and seal it

c) then run a sloping line of cement all along the suspect wall with it being about 2cms up bedroom (bedroom is above porch) wall & 2cms over floor tiles from wall. (this could be covered by a thin strip of tiles/or painted

d) Instead of c) I could get a line of narrow tiles (as often seen in bathrooms to separate lower from upper wall tiles.tiles (about 5-6 cms high) and cement them along joint of upper patio bedroom wall patio tiles and grout along the floor/joint.

Is what I am thinking making any sense or totally unsuitable to try? If so what material leak sealer should I be considering.

If I should be doing something else please give details.

Here are my photos and notes

Desperate for advice and hope someone/ some members can give me good advice so I can get this problem solved which will enable me to get the porch ceiling repaired (something that cannot be entertained at all until the leaks are successfully stopped and not likely to reappear.

Many thanks

[rgs2001uk]

I would get some silicone sealant applied to the where the wall and tiles meet behind the a/c unit.

I would regrout the tiles.

But most important get that drain pipe sorted out, the water cant drain off, so it takes the path of least resistance which is either the tiles or the wall joint

[Crossy]

I'm no construction expert, nevertheless here's my 2c worth

I think there will be a quick-and-dirty way and a right way.

Quick-and-dirty: Give the area a bloody good clean (borrow / buy a pressure washer) and splodge a load of silicon around the edge, like you would a bath.

Right (maybe): Your idea of a cement fillet around the edge seems smart. But to do it right you'll need to remove the last row of tiles (and the A/C unit), key in to the slab and wall, use some of the waterproof jointing stuff they use when building pools (sorry don't have a name) and then apply your cement fillet. A final coat of waterproof stuff before you put the tiles back can't hurt.

Either way you're going to have to sort the drain to prevent the pooling issue, perhaps one of those wire cages will keep the rubbish from blocking the actual drain.

[rgs2001uk]

Lets try posting this again.

Crossy, I wouldnt bother with a pressure hose, a hand held wire brush will do the job better.

With my dodgy knees not something I would want to undertake, make sure you have some knee pads or a cushion to kneel on.

The whole job can be done for less than 1,000 baht, and that includes the gun for the sealant, even cheaper if he doesnt buy a gun.

[Crossy]

Lets try posting this again.

Why? It was perfectly clear the first time.

It's the quick-and-dirty (should work for a while with good prep), can't hurt as a first attempt, method.

[bankruatsteve]

Just a comment on local construction "logic": If you go into a splashy toilet, the floor is sloped, sometimes way more then needed, to the drain. But, go into a Western bathroom, balcony, carport, whatever - there is no thought to water drainage. <deleted>?

If water is draining the wrong way on your balcony, how could the fix be other than to correct that?

[Ackybang]

Hi gdhm,

Crossy's idea of putting a wire mesh cage covering your drain hole is a good one.

Aside from that, I wouldn't use silicone sealant to try and seal the joint there. Not reliable atall, not long lasting, not good sealing qualities with damp concrete, and besides, you don't know where the leak is eminating from - it could be coming from a tile nowhere near the leak.. Poly is much better, and is expandable with the weather, but in this instance :-.

Easiest way :

Give the whole area a good clean, and regrout the whole area + another couple of feet circumference, or do the whole patio would be better - scrape out the lot as best you can and re-do it - shouldn't take more than a day to do the whole job. You can grout the gap between the tile and the wall too, or find some BOON GOW (waterproof cement - just add water) and use that..

I think this should work, as long as you address the drain, and you can avoid the pooling - certainly worth trying first.

If this gives you no joy, you could do the cement slope with the same cement, but make sure you regrout all the tiles first - scoring parallel lines inside the extremities of the slope on the wall and tile with a 4" angle grinder will help - you don't have to go too deep. You might want around a 5cm slope - better than 2.

Or :

Regrout the tiles, and then grout the whole length of the joint, and when it's dry, mask off neat lines and use a latex sealing paint along the whole joint a couple of inches high / wide, or right around the periphery of the patio - slap it on nice and thick - works really well. A big enough pot shouldn't cost more than a couple of hundred baht. A bag of grout is what - 20 baht ?

You can easily do it youself, mate - not a big scary job, or give someone 300 baht and a beer for the day, and direct them, as above.

Good luck.

[gdhm]

ADMIN: IS THERE A TIME LIMIT ON EDITING because I accidentally posted #8 (not completed or proofed) and when edit was ready the Forum would not allow me to post?

Please can you delete my #8 as it is redundant and replaced by THIS POST Many thanks (I've removed it, Crossy )

Guys thanks ever so much for your suggestions.

The wife fancied and upstairs patio (even though our rental upper patio leaked). I appreciated it was a potential weak link and that after the initial flurry it would never be used. Regretfully I was correct. I realize there are extreme expensive solutions such as roofing the patio, but expensive and if roof not proper roof tiles it would very noisy next to bedroom when it rained (and look shoddy) .Additionally, if we roofed the patio, there would be an issue with how do painters get to eaves and wall areas above its lower roof.

I hold up my hands and admit our total neglect of the Upper Patio for long periods (I have never used it myself in 5 years) is the cause of debris, algae, drain blocking and pooling on the patio around the outside air-con unit.

All these can be easily remedied with a little effort on our part by checking, keeping drain hole unblocked, swept patio and cleaner. Being so obese (165 Kg), having high BP and suffering very badly in this humid hot climate I really do not cope very well working outside an air-con'd room. I do better with the hot season as the humidity is much lower. Working at ground level is a nightmare for me and my knees cannot take being knelt on unless there are pillows below them(arthritis).

Crossy

Yes I totally agree about the wire cage idea (my makeshift plastic netting box was a intended temporary makeshift solution on a rainy day (that sort of became permanent and forgotten). Of course with pooling effect there was no apparent issue as it either evaporated 9or drained in time) or we venture out to the Patio and noticed and unblocked. However NOW with a leak somewhere (whether pooling or not) it is clear the pool will only make things worse until leak blocked.

I personally thought maybe a plastic cage of some sort made out of some kitchen or household item may be best as no rust issues and maybe more sturdy. Certainly this is a MUST and can be done immediately. I am very sure the leak does not emanate from the drain hole immediate area or drain hole itself.

Yes I also wondered, "IF sealing the floor-wall joint fails", whether what you suggest ''removing the last row of tiles" would be the next best easiest method to try. Even if the leak(s) start from tile(s) further into the patio it clearly cannot find a way into the room below so has to travel to the floor-wall area. Therefore removal of the final row of tiles would enable some sort of investigation and water proofing solution before laying down new tiles. If that is necessary I feel it would seem logical (well to me) to put the tiles with a slightly sleeper incline from the wall to the next row of tiles as that would push any water accumulating from heavy rain away from the floor-wall joint. Does anybody disagree and if so why?

Bankruatsteve

Luckily for us the patio floor does slope correctly to each of the two drainage holes to the far left and right sides of the patio as water never pools anywhere on the patio when the drain holes are clear

(cannot say that for the showers areas in 2 of out bathrooms (must have had the only builder's tiler that does not understand slope towards drain holes and in the case of a porch away for the house (he sloped it towards the lounge and you can guess the result pool of water on porch in front of entrance glass sliding door.

Here's a question for the experts on tile sloping and my builder's solution

Q: What do you do if the shower area (with raised rim around it, has tiled floor in it that do not slope to shower corner drain but 180 degrees towards the outer shower rim?

(because you did not read the plans (or listen to reminders) that the shower area would have a raised rim around it to keep the shower water away from the main bathroom floor areas. (HENCE REASON each bathroom HAD A DRAIN HOLE in their Showers area (as well as the Bathroom drain hole)

A: After making such a STUPID mistake you'd probably re-tile inside of the shower area rim to slope towards the shower drain hole - OBVIOUS ISN'T IT?

Well our builder's tiler's solution was. Drill a small hole through the rim (made of Thai building bricks, covered cement with tiled (looks very nice) and insert a short length or water piping so that when the water pooled up inside the showers area it will drain through the pipe and run 3-4 metres across the main bathroom floor to its drain hole. The fact the drainage water will be soapy and slippery and make the bathroom floor tiling like a skating rink seemed was irrelevant to the tiler . When I saw the solution I actually laughed (at first) with shocked amazement. I then ordered (yes I did raise my voice) and told the builder he could remove the tube and re- tile. Of course the builder removed the pipe re-tiled the rim but NOT the shower area tiling. I was fighting so many such incidents with a family supposed expert for 40 years that I left it as not as important as other issues at the time.

OK comedy sketch over. Back on subject.

The drain hole that does block sometimes is made worse partly due to me solving another issue. The original air-con drainage tube went vertically to ground level then ran along the floor-wall joint for 2 metres to the drain hole. This was not a good idea as the horizontal 2 metre stretch did not drain fully and easily algae'd up and blocked causing water to flow out of the inside air-con (as it could not drain away). I decided to cut the air-con's vertical drain pipe short (about 10 cms above the tiles and let the water drip on the tiles and follow the gentle slope to the drain hole. Worked perfectly no blocked air-con since HOWEVER an unforeseen consequence was, much bigger and quicker build ups of slimy thick algae all around the outside air- con unit area and along the Patio's floor-wall joint which broke off in heavy rain and blocked the drain more regularly.

rgs2001uk

My opinion as well stiff (or wire brush if it will not damage the tiles) and "elbow grease" I feel would be the most effective cleaning method (with maybe an anti fungus or diluted bleach solution)

Ackybang,

I agree with you about silicone. It did not prove long lasting or very effective for long when I tried to seal a shower floor-wall area (didn't look great either after a while). It has since been re-grouted and floor-wall joint filled in by a tiler. No leak has been observed since in a ceiling below. Not sure if gout used in the floor-wall joint but its very light yellowish in colour and Thais seem to use it often and effectively to seal toilet units to tiles. (as in our house). Whatever they use its seems strong and waterproof and ideal for floor-wall joints in shower and bathroom or wet areas.

Guys if any of you know what this substance is by name please tell me as I do not know. I suspect it is not grout (or purely grout - maybe I'm wrong) and Its certainly effective at stopping the toilets ever leaking when monsoon rains stop them draining OCCASIONALLY for an hour or so)

Additionally if anybody can name a leak proofing solution/substance and brand that should work to seal tiny leaks I's be most obliged as I really known nothing on this subject.

Thanks all ever so much for your kind help and advice

[gdhm]

OK plastic "bird cage" now in place. Looks much neater and sturdier

Strange observation today:

Last night and very early morning it really bucketed down for hours. I awoke during the storm and checked upper patio to see where water fell, flowed and pooled. No pooling anywhere (clearly blocked drain was ONLY reason for previous pooling. Also clearly, the slopes of Patio tiles to the 2 drains are good and the drains cope perfectly during heavy sustained downpours )

I went downstairs to the porch to see how much water was dripping through my temporary ceiling. Although quite tightly & well fitted (for a bodge job) water would find outlets to leak through. None could be seen, so I assumed that as it has not rained for 3 days that it would take longer to percolate through.

I did not wake early but my wife did and she reported there was trace of any leaks in the Porch. That was a big surprise as we have not done anything to address the porch leaks yet.

I admit I'm bemused. Last time it rained (not for very long and nothing like last night) 4 days ago ½ to 1 pint leaked through. That was a day after we removed the damaged porch ceiling and released water

I have tried to ponder on what was different last night and this is all I can think of.

1) Last time I had 2 days before unblocked the upper patio porch drain to allow pool of water to flow away. It had rained most days quite hard during the previous 2 weeks so the pool may have been sitting there all that time or longer.

2) Even though I had released all the water from the porch ceiling cavity the morning before, maybe there was still some water to percolate down from the previous several nights storms (and former pool) and then when it rained again the night before it last leaked) that topped any accumulation up.

3) Last night it had not rained at all for 3 days since last leak and as the pool had been removed nearly a week ago there was no pool water to seap through the leak(s) entry point(s). Maybe even with last night's very heavy prolonged rain the leak site(s) are not big enough for one rain storm to cause noticeable leaks below in Porch.

4) The air-con drain hose was dripping on to the upper patio floor-wall joint and running 2 metres to the drain hole for months but after the porch ceiling damage I extended the hose it directly drip within 10 cms from the drain hole in patio.

I cannot think of any other difference or any logic why no leak observed. One possible GOOD thing is that maybe what I thought was a sizeable leak (although I could not find any obvious grouting damage to support a large leak) is in fact a tiny leak(s) that merely accumulated above the porch ceiling over days and weeks (initially being soaked up by the thick fibre glass insulation material) which finally could hold no more split and damaged the ceiling and leaked water along it to flow out of the ring tube light fixture 2 metres from leak site.

If anybody has a different possible conclusions to mine (or agree with my thoughts) please let me know.

I am optimistically hopeful that "a good cleaning all along the upper patio floor-wall joint, then painting on a leak proofing liquid sealant and over that a suitably generous waterproof filler/grout/cement seal all along the joint" will resolve the leak issue without need of a more drastic remedy

Just now need advice on what leak proofing liquid sealant to try paint on joint AND what waterproof filler/grout/cement to use.

Regards to all

[Ackybang]

Hi gdhm -

Just use normal grout, that's what it's made for - get any brand - crocodile is a good one.

I have fixed a number of bathroom leaks into the room below with normal grout - all the tiles and around the toilet pedestal.

The sealant paint, again I have done a number of jobs using it, and it works very well with wall joints - I've cured quite a few leaks on people's extensions with the stuff, usually when they have a concrete plinth that's not been keyed in properly formed over the last row of roof tiles, where they meet the wall - here they call it 'beek nok' (birds wing). Go to any big dealer = Homepro, etc, and get the right sized tub for your job, and find one on special offer. There are quite a few brands available - and you have a selected choice of around 4-5 colours to suit also.

A couple of hundred baht should see to it. Put it on nice and thick, or a couple of coats - very durable.

As I said earlier - to address the leak, prevent the area from pooling, and regrout the lot. You would never be able to find the specific spot that the water comes from, it could come from anywhere on a flat roof.

Good luck.

[meatboy]

having 2 balcony's we had a few problems more or less the same as you,and some leaking tiles in a pond plus the usual cracks in the walls.tried quite a few products to no avail untill i bought a tub of SISTA premium acrylic roof sealer product [d100]

all the jobs i done with it over a yr.ago are still holding out.you can get it in home mart,home pro and tesco used to sell it.

regarding the water in the porch could it be some twit from down the rd.having a piss in it late at night.

Edited September 28, 2013 by meatboy

[gdhm]

Thanks Ackybang & meatboy excellent info means I can proceed.

The reason I was not sure Grout was what was used is that the packets often say "water resistant" rather than "waterproof"

Looks like the solution is Crocodile Grout and SISTA premium acrylic roof sealer product [d100]

Great recommendation meatboy THANKS (there is nothing better than direct successful experience, especially as other products were tried first and found wanting)

May I ask (probably seems silly)

Does the SISTA sealant go on the cleaned up joint ('beek nok' ) FIRST then the Crocodile Grout on top?

OR

Does the Crocodile Grout go on FIRST and then the SISTA sealant on top?

OR

The SISTA sealant FIRST then the Crocodile Grout and then another coat of SISTA sealant?

Ackybang you said "As I said earlier - to address the leak, prevent the area from pooling, and re-grout the lot. You would never be able to find the specific spot that the water comes from, it could come from anywhere on a flat roof".

Stopping pooling is very easy as it is NOT a tile slope issue, but a birds nest, tree/bushes/leaves debris issue plus algae build up blocking the drain hole. Answer clean the area more frequently, and the plastic bird cage I added yesterday to help avoid the drain blocking as easily.

The grouting of the tiles in the area of the leak and floor-wall joint looks sound except possible behind the air con and a few tiny crack in the joint grout between final tile (you can see two tiny cracks in grout i(n my earlier close-up picture of area behind air-con and wall)I which will ask to be "dug out" and re-grouted. I am hoping the water is getting in via the floor-wall joint grouting rather via grouting around tiles further away (and water seeping under the tiles to the joint) because IF that is the case then sealant and new extra grouting of the joint area would be going over the problem rather than sealing and solving and the leaks will continue until the final line of tiles removed sealed and re-tiled and re-grouted. I feel it likely the joint along the floor-wall is the likely cause of leak and If I seal and re-grout the whole joint form front of upper patio to the door form the bedroom (3-4 metres) there is a good chance the issue will be resolved.

meatboy "..regarding the water in the porch could it be some twit from down the rd.having a piss in it late at night..."

not unless they are sober enough to climb a 3 metre perimeter front or side walls with spikes or barbed wire on top, not worry about PIRs or the visible alarm light & box attached to house front eaves (not a DUMMY - there is full system behind it it) AND they can aim just below ceiling level, then climb back over wall . Hell of a lot to do just for a "leak"

Thanks guys

(thanks Crossy for removing my erroneous unfinished post)

[meatboy]

as the sista sealant is easy to apply most of if nearly all i used 2 coats if the are deep cracks use some wall putty or for tiles grout then sista on top.a while back we had the architect to look at one of the cracks and told him we had this sista filler oh that looks good he had never seen it before they use that wall putty and after its been on awhile the crack reappears.

also there is a sista d-150 not sure whats that for.

[gdhm]

Sealant and repair

Thanks meatboy

final couple of questions (sorry I forgot to ask)

1) what colour is the SISTA D-100 is it clear and does it change colour over time. The tiles are matt (is SISTA glossy or would it blend in) .

2) I have made the decision to follow Crossy's suggestion (and some others similar advice) and remove the final row of half tiles next to the floor-wall joint (all length of the bedroom wall form back of upper patio to front

.

I have spoken to my wife's cousin-in law who has worked for builders and does a very decent job tiling (only weakness I have noted is he can occasionally forgets to follow pattern direction for less obvious patterns unless told it is important first (to be honest I have found this to be a weakness of some others as well).

I have told him I's sooner pay more have a longer job done to the best of his ability rather than a "should be good enough job" because when I get the porch roof re-done if a leak occurs again that will be double cost and the patio tiling would have to be re-done

I have asked him to slope the new half tiles slightly from wall to floor which will help protect the new joint and channel the water away from it (unless total downpour)

We have very carefully moved the air-con about 10 cms & turned around its rubber feet to clear the half tiles it slightly stood on before (hopefully have not damaged/bent the gas tube into the unit

OK that is my intent and so (at last ) to my second question meatboy.

I wish to ensure there is a permanent seal between the adjoining row of tiles. When the run of old half tiles have been removed should he paint generously the SISTA on the uncovered concrete base before fitting the new tiles or not? I wish to ensure there is a permanent seal between the adjoining row of tiles so that IF water is travelling under the tiles form further afield it cannot get under the new half tiles that will be fitted.

Assuming yes, will the tile cement and grout adhere to the painted on sealant as well as if it had not been painted on IF NO what is optimum course of action?

I am assuming based on your last answer I would then paint SISTA generously along the new floor wall joint.

Many thanks meatboy

Question with Porch Suspended Ceiling repair

I will leave the temporary Porch ceiling covering in place until after a few storm downpours have occurred (should only be a week or so with Monsoon still here in the hope that no leaks will be seen in the porch ceiling cavity area.

What do you guys recommendation when it is fixed?.

We have noticed there is now water damage immediately around the central tube light fitting. Not surprising as a lot of water came out of it a week ago and I assume what was left is now soaking into the plasterboard ceiling. Additionally we were unable to pull and remove the fibreglass from that area (possibly the light's wires were fed through it, rather than being fed under, or maybe the screws securing the ceiling are catching on it).

I know nothing about how best to repair a suspended ceiling and will find a local to do it. My question guys is:

Should I ask for them to cut away all damp areas up to slightly beyond the centre light fitting and leave 40% or original ceiling untouched and in place IF water did not reach it.

OR

should I ask them the replace the whole Porch ceiling. I want whatever is best and will look good, but equally not pay for whole ceiling if no advantages or need) . I already plan to ask for a small access hatch (which will not look great) to be added just below that cable Junction box for future access (unless anybody here recommends for a good reason against doing that). My thinking is IF I find the source of the tripping of the front wall outlet then I will need access to the junction box to reconnect the currently disconnected wires.

I will ask them to paint whole porch ceiling.

Photo with measurements below.

Has anybody an idea of an approximate cost to repair (or at least how much asked would be too much) with either

a) Right side to just beyond central light replaced (with small access point

or

whole porch ceiling replaced

Many thanks all for any info.

Edited September 29, 2013 by gdhm

[meatboy]

the colour is super white,as for changing colour where i have used it its been painted over,except for the tiles in the pond and that athough it sealed the leak it is showing some wear and tear.

as for painting it on before tiling reading what they recomend i cant see a problem only a benefit.

this is what the say. sista d100 is acrylic-based synthetic roof coating for jointless sealing and repair a roof.

a high performance coating can be used for,

waterproofing and leakage repair on,gutter,deck,terrace,garage,balconies.excellent adhesion on all substrates i.e.

concrete ceramic tile mortar and wood.

weather and uv resistance.waterproof 100%.high elasticity

recomendation multiple coats build up film thickness and increase adhesion strenght.

apply glue directly on substrate without thinning or diluting,allow 30mins before second coating or till touch dry.

as we were not on site when our house was built they did not use a primer on the walls so outside its starting to bubble and peel mostly a yard from the base so as soon as the rainy seasons over i will scrape back to the concrete and paint sista on with a roller.

[gdhm]

Thanks meatboy,

Only problem I can foresee meatboy is IF, over time the SISTA starts to lose adhesion with either the concrete floor base or the tile mortar. Then the tiles would become loose. Maybe I should only use it along the edge of the second row of tiles that meets the final row of half tiles and along floor-wall joint (but not whole surface under new half tiles).

One possible reason for leaks to porch (although I am not sure why after 5 years) is that when the air-con was installed the installers laid a drainage pipe tight along the floor-wall joint all the way to the drain hole. THIS pipe was secured with two metal wrap clips and each was secured by a single screw. The screws are directly screwed into the joint corner itself (not floor or wall) which does not seem a bright idea IMHO as joint's waterproofing may have been weakened unsettled when drilling the hole for the screw. (certainly the 2 screws are very securely fitted and I have not tried to unscrew until sealing and repairs done just in case the ARE the source, and a bigger leak occurs in their absence (can only guess if screws can be unscrewed or will break off)

[gdhm]

Hi meatboy and others

I have been searching on the web for videos on preparations etc. and, being a total novice on tiling & waterproofing, I have found some methods that are supported by some and not mentioned by others. I find myself in a can't "sort the wood from the trees" situation and crave your patient indulgence with a few more questions, as I feel sure if I do not find out first the person waterproofing and tiling the upper patio leak area for me will probably not know and will apply methods he always has ALWAYS used, whether good or not.

I have watched several videos and this one http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mX6ubC6KUzk seems to be supportive of several, on how the waterproofing concrete floor and joint under tiling should proceed. Do you agree or do you have other advice?

1) Some videos suggest that after sweeping debris and dust away that the concrete floor base should be painted with primer first before applying any waterproofing. Do you concur or is this unnecessary with SISTA D-100. If necessary is type important or will any concrete primer do.

2) Many suggest a mesh/polyester membrane strip be applied along all joints, painting on waterproofing substance first, then into it and over it as in video). This seems wise and logical. Should I ask my tiler to do it?

3) SISTA D-100 seems to be for roofs and Balcony leaks etc. D-150 seems to be more for walls and bigger cracks. Is SISTA D-100 the one I should use?

4) Does Is the liquidity and constituency of SISTA D-100 seem similar to the product used in the video I have linked to, or is it thicker more like acrylic sealant in a tube and not easy to paint over concrete walls and joints?

5). It has been suggested that it is necessary to consider the tiling adhesive used for fixing the tiles to the floor based upon what they being fixed to. I am sure my tiler will use his normal adhesive he uses for fixing tiles over concrete BUT is that suitable for fixing on to a double coating of SISTA D-100?

6) Some suggest grouting between tiles should not be done until 24-48 hours after the tiles have been laid and fixed. I don't think I have seen ANY Thai tiler wait, they seem to grout as soon as they have fixed the tiles. Is waiting important or not for a good water proof grouting between tiles?

Thanks guys.