An Insider's Guide to Phnom Penh: Massages, Food, and a Secret Prison

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Photograph by Chaney Kwak

Market in Phnom Penh

Manuel J. Garcia, the owner of Cambodia's Boddhi Tree Guest Houses & Hotel, has had a front row seat to the changes happening in the country over the past few years. He first arrived in 1995, when there was no running water, electricity, or shops—a time he recalls was "very rough." In the late 2000s, Garcia watched as Phnom Penh went from a "peaceful and quiet place" into a booming mega city of high-rises, fast cars, and "feverish entrepreneurship." And yet, he's more in love with Phnom Penh than ever.

"Here, you're not just watching history from far away," said Garcia. "You're part of it." We chatted with him about what to do and see in Phnom Penh (even when it rains, which is often). Here are his picks:

SIGHTS AND ACTIVITIES

On the Mekong River, just across the Japanese Bridge, there are great local restaurants to enjoy fantastic, fresh Khmer food.

Go to the Central Market, and get some custom-made clothing. You can choose from a huge selection of fabrics and find tailors who can turn out a new shirt or even a suit in a day or two.

Check out the Art Deco architecture around Phnom Penh. The Central Market is a great testament to Art Deco, and the Royal University of Phnom Penh also features some beautiful architecture from the French colonial era.

Visit the Tuol Sleng Genoice Museum, a secret prison of the brutal Maoist regime. Cambodia's traumatic past is not long behind us, so it's a very moving experience. Make sure to go early, at 7 a.m. when it opens, or towards the 6 p.m. closing time—the tour buses that come through during the day detract from the powerful experience.

DAY TRIPS

Koh Daik, about five miles north of the city, is a lush, clean hidden island where you can swim or bicycle. Many families weave silk and sell fantastic fabrics.

Phnom Chisor is an amazing mountain temple, 30 miles east of Phnom Penh. It overlooks the plains bordering Vietnam, and is a great place that's off the beaten tourist path. The temple itself is older than Angkor Wat.

ON A RAINY DAY

The Meta House, Cambodia's first "media/art/communication center" has a fascinating roster of exhibitions and daily film screenings.

The National Museum has an awesome collection of Khmer art, and the building itself is a work of art of itself.

The Elephant Bar at Raffles Hotel Le Royal is a great space for writing and inspiration. Jackie O visited it on her trip to Cambodia.

Pamper yourself. You don't have to look hard or pay a lot to get a good massage in Phnom Penh. Sawasdee is such a place, with $8 one-hour massages.

source

http://www.cntraveler.com/daily-traveler/2013/11/cambodia-vacation-phnom-penh