Sick of city life, aim to move to phangan/samui and have a few questions :D

travellea · December 17, 2013

Hi everyone,

i'm 22 yo male.

After travelling for over a year in Europe I decided it is very similar to my homeland city and I don't feel like living in a city anymore. Not at least for the next year.

So I've been to thailand with my family once when I was very young, and it has been in my mind in the last 4 years to fly back there for at least 3 months and see how to go from there. Before making this move I got a few questions which i hope someone would be able to answer. (thanks!)

So basically my salary/budget is $1,500 pm (48k BAHT)

I'm currently in London and spend ~ pm $2000/£1,200/62k BAHT so i'm going negative without even spending on clothes or partying often.

1. Where can I find a website for renting places for people on budget? Is it possible to find something nice near the touristic areas for a month?

2. which island would be easier place to meet tourists and work on my social skills, phangan or samui? or maybe chiang mai/bangkok? Usually i meet a lot of people on vacations, but on regular life it's a lot harder for me to open up. i've been a loner for a few years and want to socialize and meet girls/people to party with, go to the beach etc.

3. which island is cheaper for a foreign?

4. i have had a serious bike accident in the past and have made a swear not to ever ride on one ever in my life. Is it very expensive to get to places on the island without a bike? is walking at night safe?

5. Do you find this calculator correct? http://www.numbeo.com/cost-of-living/compare_cities.jsp?country1=United+Kingdom&city1=London&country2=Thailand&city2=Koh+Samui

6. Is there a big difference between prices on Tesco and local markets? (fruits, veggies, salmon, rice for example)

Thanks for everyone who is willing to take a few minutes and help a new guy who is sick of the western world and want to revisit paradise and enjoy in the land of smiles. i appreciate it.

CaptainS · December 17, 2013

I can tell you a bit about Samui, you wont have problem to live on your budget at all. You get by with even less, but I think even enough partying should be possible.

Get a hotel for a few days and then look around to find housing. At lot of it is not on the internet.

Taxis are too expensive here, you will need your own transport, if you dont want a motorbike you would have to rent a car for around 15000 baht a month.

Actually I am person who loves to walk in cities. Often more than 10 kilometre a day, but I would consider Samui not a good/safe place to walk, specially at night.I mean not so much in terms of being robbed just for having an accident. Anyhow traffic is quite dangerous here, too many accidents happen.

From my experience I would say for foreigners its cheaper to buy at Tesco as the locals at the markets often overcharger foreigners. I really wanted to support the locals on markets and in the small shops, but I learned, even I speak enough thai, they usually charge (me?) more than the chains like Tesco or 7/11 so I prefer those now. Do other Thaivisa members kind of agree here?

I think this calculator you mentioned is quite correct for most of the things, expect for the transportation part.

Mole · December 17, 2013

1. Where can I find a website for renting places for people on budget? Is it possible to find something nice near the touristic areas for a month?

Yes, it's very much possible to find budget prices such as where Thai lives. But don't expect to get much fancy place and any luxuries. The cheapest places for example only have squat toilet, no hot water, no aircon.

Are you planning to live for 1 month or 1 year? At the top, you said as if you wanted to stay for a year...

2. which island would be easier place to meet tourists and work on my social skills, phangan or samui? or maybe chiang mai/bangkok? Usually i meet a lot of people on vacations, but on regular life it's a lot harder for me to open up. i've been a loner for a few years and want to socialize and meet girls/people to party with, go to the beach etc.

I would of course say that the "best" place is Bangkok purely because there's more people there. So it depends on your priorities. If you just want a work to further your career opportunities, then of course Bangkok is the only place to be.

If you like the beach, then of course come to the islands. The bigger islands, the more people and more opportunities. If you like mountains, then go to Chiang Mai. More people and opportunities than on the islands.

3. which island is cheaper for a foreign?

Samui is cheapest, then Phagan, then Tao.

4. i have had a serious bike accident in the past and have made a swear not to ever ride on one ever in my life. Is it very expensive to get to places on the island without a bike? is walking at night safe?

Walking at night is relative safe. Depends how into the night you mean...

Many streets may not be that well lit at night and can be very deserted.

But frankly in Thailand, you really don't wanna walk great distances during day or night. Distances between places on this island is also quite long. Have you actually studied a map of the island? You're gonna spend 1 hour to walk just from Chaweng to Lamai for example...

If you have this "phobia" of motorbikes, then I suggest you get a car to drive around. You can also rent those "song thiaw" which will take you anywhere on the island for a fee. But expect to pay a lot if you wanna go to unusual corners of the island. Taxis are also available, but it'll cost you 1 week money worth of food to get even the shortest distances.

5. Do you find this calculator correct? http://www.numbeo.co...city2=Koh Samui

That calculator looks about right for "farang" prices. That's the price you foreigners would usually get. I'm a native Thai, and I'd be able to get most of the things in there at about 50%.

You should totally disregard that taxi prices. No taxi on this island drives on meters and even for a Thai like me, starting price is 200bt just to get you 1 km.

6. Is there a big difference between prices on Tesco and local markets? (fruits, veggies, salmon, rice for example)

Tesco is sometimes cheaper and may have stuff (especially imported stuff) which the markets may not have and if markets do have, it'll be more expensive than tesco. Local markets do have some vegetables and fruits which tesco does not have. Especially many native Thai stuff, tesco does not have at all. But this may really not be of a concern for you because those native Thai stuff, you'd probably never heard of or would want to ever cook with them yourself.

Also, prices on the market will usually be more expensive than tesco. For example, they like to round it up to the nearest 5 bt and you can't really be too sure how accurate those scales are at the market and exactly what price they charge per kilo because there's no labeling.

In tesco, prices are clearly stated and charged exactly according to the gram of weight.

Personally, some stuff I buy from Tesco, such as onions, broccoli, garlic. Stuff I buy on markets, tomatoes (looks and taste much better than tesco) and other vegetables which tesco doesn't have.

For stuff like pork and beef, I always buy from tesco simply because I'm sure their routines are much more hygienic than on the markets. Only if you have special requirements such as needs a halal meat or something, then you pretty much don't have much choice than to get from market.

Fish and seafood is also fresher from tesco, unless you know where to get fish that are catch of the day from waters around here. There are only a few places on the island which sells these and most places I know are not at markets but stalls near fishing villages.

Most vendors in the usual market will NOT have local fish and seafood and neither does tesco.

samuijimmy · December 17, 2013

I would generally agree with CaptainS's comments.... stay in a place for a few days, and look around for longer term place which will be cheaper by the month... You need to look yourself, they are not advertised on internet... Being that you don't want a bike, will make that task harder as many places are up Soi's which may be a way from the ring road! Also trying to find a cheap place during High season will be more difficult. (now to March or so) ...

Samui (other than Chawang or perhaps Lamai) is cheaper than KP in all respects, from being able to get more bang for your "buck" for long term lodging and food and drink.

Some of the small shops are OK to deal with, they don't all overcharge.... 7.11 is sometimes more expensive than small shops... You just need to be a regular ... but having said that it's not always the case... you soon learn to avoid the ones that over charge!

Milk recently went up to 89.50 baht, so that list you provided is a bit off!

Good luck!.... but you will need to search around yourself, to what suites you!

travellea · December 17, 2013

Wow, thanks a lot for the help. way more than I expected. i appreciate it guys.

The transportation part sucks indeed as I have no Car drivers license, only bike license. I think it would be a good idea to find a place near the beach to make the transport rent unnessacary? My best friend who've been to thailand for 4 months keep telling me how I should rent a place in "Haad rin", so i won't be alone there as it's easy to socialize and meet people, parties are common etc.

I was thinking to live in a place with a "backpacker" and touristic feeling to it, where the action happens, rather than a village where i'll need to travel a lot to the touristic parts. being single at this point of life i'd like to have some fun and try my luck in a vacation place, where it's most likely to get along with women (not for $)

Don't look for a fancy house, just a 1 room apt in a central location- a bed, kitchen with cooker, fridge, internet and airconditioner. possible?

Edited December 17, 2013 by travellea

travellea · December 17, 2013

i'm looking to live in a place with more of the "backpacker" feeling rather than a quiet place with no bars around

samuijimmy · December 17, 2013

a back packer place with fridge, stove internet and air-con and close to the beach, ... sorry, but.... that's funny!

Just about all areas have bars, just that they are not always too busy!

Had Rin and Chawang are the two most expensive areas on the islands... and you say you are sick of city life!???

Like we have said, you really need to come look around and suites your taste and wanta be lifestyle! Spend a few days or a week, looking around both islands... they are only half an hour apart by ferry....

Mole · December 17, 2013

It's probably best that you come and spend some time here and see and experience for yourself how it things are around here, then decide what you like.

Some of your requirements are mutually exclusive, such as would like to party, but also low budget.

Also, I believe most backpackers actually go for the more quiet places rather than near parties, so your preconception of things are not quite right.

Also, you don't to really understand how things works in a "third world" country. You want a "simple" accommodation, but all that you list aren't exactly "backpacker" standards. Be prepared to pay quite a lot for accommodation like that.

Edited December 17, 2013 by Mole

Birdman · December 17, 2013

come here, rent a simple bungalow or a room at a guest house, eat at backpacker places and local markets, rent a motorcycle, but be very very careful, the traffic here is extremely bizarre and unpredictable and very dangerous, you are not insured and responsible for all coasts, if something happens, you pay, drive slowly and take a look by yourself, first on Samui, later on Phangan and if you have some more detailed question, post here

saweden · December 17, 2013

If you don't want to ride a bike ever your best option is to stay in Chaweng. However you can't really call that a quiet area. But you will have everything you need on walking distance, beach, gym, food, shops, massage and whatever you may need at the heart of the island.

You will have to find the really local places for food though, there are a few, or cook your own food as most restaurants are expensive and aimed at tourists. But if you're on a 50 000 baht budget that's not really a problem and you could eat at most places mid range.

You would also avoid getting attacked by dogs or car/bike accidents since ppl can't really drive that fast down there. I would say it's pretty safe and you're always surrounded by people and everything you need.

I have many friends living there and they also rent clean, small apartments with communal pool real cheap. If you need further recommendation on apartment let me know in pm.

Good luck!

Edited December 17, 2013 by saweden

notmyself · December 17, 2013

Certainly not backpacker. If you want a kitchen or rather place to cook and are willing to use it then the additional cost of having one soon pays for itself. Markets are cheaper for me but I've been here a long time and my face is well known so don't get double priced. Transport could be an issue with regard to cost so better to stay somewhere where what you need is within walking distance but not for long as I have just ordered a saleng.

AngThong · December 17, 2013

Don't come to Phangan.

Go to Samui & spend a week or four to get the feel of the place; if you like it, you'll find somewhere to live.

travellea · December 17, 2013

Hey everyone, thanks for the help ! I did some research in the past few hours. I will do what you recommended, heading to Chewang and will check out Phangan on full moon period for 5 days.

I've been working hard in the last few years with no much parties since I couldn't afford the lifestyle. I mean a night out in Europe with a few drinks+Entrance Fee is no less than 20-30eur/quid..

Rent+Home cooked food+Transport in London (Zone 2) and a beer at evening cost me about 35Pounds / 1800Baht here. and i don't even enjoy, freeze and need to wear 4 layers in order to stay warm, lol.

Definitely will cook at home.

Edited December 17, 2013 by travellea

CaptainS · December 17, 2013

You dont have necessarily to cook at home, just find the right places. Cheap Thai food around 40-60 baht is hard to beat in your own kitchen if you have to buy lotsa ingridients first.

PoorSucker · December 17, 2013

Have you considered on what visa you will be staying on?

As you don't qualify for any long term visa, tourist visa or ED (education) visa is the only options for you.

travellea · December 17, 2013

Alright after watching like 30 videos on youtube i got the overall idea how both islands are and decided to start in Haad Rin for a month and see how it goes. If anyone know a place where I can book there for 8k-15k pm i'd appreciate it a lot.

By the way i noticed people drive very slow in Samui, is it the same in phangan?

Thanks for the help

and i'll go with the touristic visa. if i'd like to stay more i'll take a flight to burma and go back

Edited December 17, 2013 by travellea

notmyself · December 17, 2013

Sick of city life so moving to Haad Rin... I wish you the very best and hope that within 2 weeks you are not shacked up with some tart. Not sure watching a load of YT videos is particularly instructive so you may wish to have a search through some of the threads on the sub forum. Also, given the kind and helpful nature of members I would suggest asking further questions of a pertinent kind.

Would be much cheaper and easier to get a triple entry tourist visa in your home country. Visas can be obtained in the region but often require a visa to enter the country you will be applying in (not Malaysia) and require at least one night's stay which is not such a bad thing. Latest report about getting a tourist visa in Burma is from 2009 here.

pokerspiv · December 18, 2013

90% of people in Samui don't have a license of any kind. It really doesn't matter. You can pick up a used car for around 2000 sterling which will serve your transport needs. If you are planning on living here long term and refuse to ride a motorbike that is really your only option.

You can get a studio apartment near the beach in many areas of the island for around 6000-8000 baht per month in Samui. Not sure about Hadd Rin, which is in Koh Phangan.

samuijimmy · December 18, 2013

No License, equals no insurance. coverage ... not a good plan, man ...... !!!

pokerspiv · December 19, 2013

Regardless, most people don't have valid licenses. So my point stands.

John 1 · December 19, 2013

I have valid 5 year licence but I'm not most people.

carmine · December 19, 2013

Sorry but i disagree. If you are a foreigner especially, driving without a license and are involved in an accident you will find yourselves in all manner of sh1t. Whether you ride a bike or drive a car, get a Thai license if you are staying here long term.

carmine · December 19, 2013

Most people i know do and your point doesn't stand, its blatantly poor advice

Rooo · December 19, 2013

Why would you advise someone to carry on with an illegal activity?

Just because people ignore the law doesn't it make it right .Whilst you are at it why

don't you tell him he doesn't need a visa either?

Perhaps by giving the above advise, you should also explain the consequences a foreigner faces short cutting the system

samuijimmy · December 19, 2013

Referring to most people "don't have a license" .... are we talking Thai's or Farangs here? Thais, yes probably not...

One would think that people would get a International Drivers license, before traveling?, at least I always did and have travel insurance.... seems to be a no brainer regardless of what country travels to or from ...

and anyone who is here long term would get their a Thai drivers license....and extra insurance for the bike... surely?

Advice to the OP.... is have both! ... or at least have insurance even if you don't intend to drive!

Rooo · December 19, 2013

The OP is coming on limited funds, can't afford any legal hassles . As advised, get yourself here, try a few places for a bit, see what suits. By your requirements, you will seem to be in the thick of the action anyway, so the sporadic use of public transport or motorcycle taxi is affordable.

Do yourself a big favor & also get travel insurance.

travellea · December 19, 2013

Hey guys

Just bought a delicious coconut today for 3 pounds. while drinking it i'm looking at the label and guess what... MADE IN THAILAND. hah, i wonder how much this heavenly taste coconut would cost there.

I insure myself every time I go to a foreign country, that is a MUST. Lol, no chance in the world my mom would let me go anywhere without travel life insurance. As for car/motorbike meh, i am a clumsy person. I don't want to drive at all, with all the drunk people around. I haven't ride a motorcycle in over 3 years now, yet to be honest from the videos I saw, people seem to drive very very slow in chewang, like 20km/h?

Anyway I talked to some friends and watched at their facebook albums and the kind of impression i got is that Samui is more like a city with many clubs, restaurants shops and bar girls while phangan is less developed, simpler, and just more chilled or hippie-like

I've decided to go stay at a guesthouse in Koh Phangan in Sunset Beach, not far from the action. I managed to find a nice apt in Baan Tai but they say it's 10-15 mins ride to Haad rin.

So my final step now is to contact guesthouses in Sunset beach, hadd rin, to ask if I can rent for a month or two - does anyone have guesthouses phone numbers or emails?

I know that living out of $1500 pm wouldn't be THAT easy. From my experience Id rather find a place before flying just to avoid stress and saving some money.

Important question: should i expect a normal internet connection in koh phangan?

Thanks a lot for the help... i sense you're all coming from a genuine good place, which is kinda surprising in a forum.. no trolls harassing a newbie

And of course i'd stick around in the forums to learn more about thailand and the islands

Chris

Edited December 19, 2013 by travellea

Mole · December 20, 2013

Did you try that thing called google with the keywords Sunset beach hadd[sic] rin? (Remove that [sic] because I actually just copied what you wrote into google to try myself and many wonderful numbers I found..)

You can almost get to the other side of KPG within 10-15 mins ride, it's not that big island.

Of course there's "normal" internet connection, what's in your mind is an "abnormal internet connection"?

Ever since I was 16 or so, my mom actually had nothing whatsoever to say where I can or cannot go....

It's probably best you come and experience things here yourself. Judging from what you've written so far, your impressions of how things are here are not quite right.

My advice is that you better not book and pay in advance for such a long time. Just tell where you're staying that you're not sure how long you're gonna stay. This way you can move when you realize things aren't really what you expected it to be, which I'm pretty sure you will.

Mole · December 20, 2013

I was on full moon party on 17 December and everything is just an overrated huge tourist trap. Apart from the parties where there are thousands of people there, on regular days it's actually quite quiet and not much going on.

So, if you'd rather be able to meet people in parties, you're better off staying in Chaweng where there's always a party somewhere. The FMP is just a short boat trip away anyway, so there's really no reason why you have to stay on had rin just for the sake of that party.

Just keep in mind that partying will drain your budget very quickly and you may wake up the next day and realize you've overspent quite a bit more. It's not easy to control yourself when you're drunk and there may be pretty chicks around you'd like to impress.

samuijimmy · December 20, 2013

^ Mole is right on there!!!

All the girls will "love you long time"... too .... .... (well as long as the money flows their way! )....

If you are planning on up to six months, you should check out a longer term visa before leaving UK... I am not sure what the max is, but you get 30 days on arrival, otherwise you'll be doing a border run, that will eat a major hole into your budget ... each month!!! (Whether you're on Samui or KP... it's a grueling trip down to Malaysia!..)

To get to the full moon party, from Samui, it going to cost about 900 baht return, if you use the boats set up for this these events...(Lomlahk or Grandsea Boat Tours both offer this service Boats run from about 7 pm and return back hourly until 7 am... ) ... plus 100 baht admission to the FMP... Half Moon, Black Moon or which ever is the event of the time of month...

You have not mentioned when you plan to come, Chris, but after March (high season) accommodation should be cheaper....

Edited December 20, 2013 by samuijimmy

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Sick of city life, aim to move to phangan/samui and have a few questions :D

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