Wood finishing for reclaimed wood house

[FACTOR]

I am building a house from old, reclaimed wood from older houses. I would like to know the best way to finish the wood -- both exterior and interior.

Varnish, shellac, lacquer, polyurethane? Oil? Tung oil? Something else?

I understand basically there are two types of finish: film finish (e.g. shellac, varnish) and penetrating finish (e.g. tung oil).

I want to preserve the natural look and beauty of the wood as much as possible, and I don't want a lot of toxins.

What is the traditional way of finishing all of those Thai houses?

Any ideas? Any opinions and expertise would be appreciated.

Thank you.

[Morakot]

I take a wild guess and say oil. The oil from the tree the timber came from.

[bbradsby]

Traditional? some were painted, some left as-is to gray on the exterior. I'm sensing that those aren't what yr after...

I'd go with an exterior grade semi-gloss polyurethane or varathane to seal & stabilize the wood, with an extra coat on the exterior surfaces. You need the UV protection. If you want to add pigment, do so before the finish coat, but run some experiments on small pieces, as the poly will darken the wood by itself. To estimate how dark, just wet the wood - the finish coat will darken it similarly. All the major coatings manf in LoS have good English websites. Start there.

[FACTOR]

Traditional? some were painted, some left as-is to gray on the exterior. I'm sensing that those aren't what yr after...

I'd go with an exterior grade semi-gloss polyurethane or varathane to seal & stabilize the wood, with an extra coat on the exterior surfaces. You need the UV protection. If you want to add pigment, do so before the finish coat, but run some experiments on small pieces, as the poly will darken the wood by itself. To estimate how dark, just wet the wood - the finish coat will darken it similarly. All the major coatings manf in LoS have good English websites. Start there.

Thanks for the advice. The guy doing the building for me recommends an oil. I think it's Tung oil. I'll let him do it his way and keep my fingers crossed

[bbradsby]

Its your house, not his. So dont be shy, but be polite... jai yen! Tell him you just want to see what it will look like, and ask him to put a sample of his material on a very weathered piece, and on a piece in very good condition. Then YOU decide, as he'll soon be gone and you'll have to live with the results. Tung oil is a very vague term. Beware.

[pb1936]

The problem with all hard finishes on exterior timbers is that they break-down under ultraviolet light, followed by cracking and peeling. Pigmented versions of such finishes provide greater protection against ultraviolet light but do not greatly extend the life of the coating.

Repainting degraded hard surface coatings requires considerable preparation to remove the cracked/flaking surface.

Teak oil is an excellent choice for both protection of the timber and ease of re-decoration, but it will darken the wood considerably.

You would be well advised to treat all the wood prior to decoration using a combined anti-rot and anti-termite chemical - there are companies who spray the building............but don't expect to get a guarantee.

For what it is worth, my large traditional Thai timber house was sprayed during construction and finished with Solignum " Decking Stain" which is available in a few different colours....but not in clear. This product gives a slight sheen, is easy to apply, does not flake or peel, and requires minimal preparation before redecoration.

Of all the things, the most essential is the chemical treatment.

Good luck !

CORRECTION - should have said Cuprinol Decking Stain, not Solignum

Edited April 15, 2014 by pb1936

[eyecatcher]

I agree with pb, prioritise insect infestation and either treat initially and independently or find an all in one wood stain that incorporates insect repellent.

TOA, cuprinol, solignun, beger all do these stains/paints.

Varnish outside really I would limit this to a garden chair or table, as it breaks down,shrinks and peels off in just a few months in this heat.

[Issangeorge]

A friend of mine built a bamboo hut and was going to by something for the bugs. His Thai BIL said to paint it wit diesel, he did and all the bugs left. The BIL said to do it every few years.

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[Showbags]

^ Diesel...the smell, no thanks.

I am and have used in the past, Tung oil and a lemon thinners....smells great and works a treat.

Currently doing the sheds posts and doors, using 50/50 mix with thinners first, out of lemon unfortunately......then a 25/75 mix, then a light coat with 100% tung oil.

Only problem is running out of Tung and not sure where to buy now, my supplier MIA.

Only thing with tung is I think you need to do it regularly...yearly, but make sure first couple coats are thinned out to get right into the wood first, then increase it to seal it in.

As for poisons for termites....never used it, depends on the wood you choose to use and I only use the resistant hardwoods, never had termite issues with any of them.

Edited April 16, 2014 by Showbags

[Showbags]

A friend of mine built a bamboo hut and was going to by something for the bugs. His Thai BIL said to paint it wit diesel, he did and all the bugs left. The BIL said to do it every few years.

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You can soak bamboo in bauxite I think it is and that'll get rid of them without the smell.

[eyecatcher]

With bamboo the higher risk is wet rot. You can spray bamboo with the 1 part chemical to 50part water and you are good for two years.

However as you know bamboo dries out and opens up long shakes. in addition to open tops the rain gets in and just sits on each knot slowly rotting it from inside out.

The outside looks normal until you grab it, then it just disintegrates.

Even my timber tree house is a decent hardwood but developing shakes are an invitation for beetles and grubs to make a new home so you have to be vigilant

[cheeryble]

Also agree……NO varnish it's a never ending occupation and needs scraping if beyond a certain point (I know I lived on a wooden sailing yacht with mahogany topsides.)

A penetrating stain much quicker and easier.

My dad used to use old sump oil for the fence every year or two….I can't remember it smelling bad.

[jingjoke]

My sister and husband have and have had for years the services of a really great all-round handiman for their cottage. He soaked all outdoor patio/porch wood in kerosene before using it, just as farmers of yesteryear apparently had done for the yokes used to tether pairs of horses for ploughing. It apparently toughens the wood so it does not splay or crack. No wood rot on their patios ever. FWIW. Oh, and apparently not a fire hayzard...yet.

[cheeryble]

You can soak bamboo in bauxite I think it is and that'll get rid of them without the smell.

I think you mean borax (solution) a commonly used anti-whatever.

Bauxite Is aluminium ore.

ps you can also simply soak bamboo in water for some weeks I am told. The Thais do it, something changes chemically to give it resistance.

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[GavinK]

Also agreeNO varnish it's a never ending occupation and needs scraping if beyond a certain point (I know I lived on a wooden sailing yacht with mahogany topsides.)

A penetrating stain much quicker and easier.

How about varnish on top of stain on internal doors, windows, frames in this humid climate ?

[cheeryble]

You mean to stop so much expanding and contracting?

It may at least slow it down....

Yes varnish can last a long time out of direct sunlight.

But SUCH a job if it ever needs stripping/re varnishing.......has to be done much more completley than paint as it's transparent.

Outside is just impossible in a climate like this stick with stain treatment or it'll be like painting the .sydney .harbour .bridge.

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