Repair PCB Board

atyclb · June 23, 2014

Anyone know a place that can troubleshoot and repair a PCB board?

It is the control board from a Fujika induction cooktop. The company does not respond to multiple emails(english and thai) nor telephone calls from a Thai person.

Porkster · June 23, 2014

I know electronics and the gem rule is simple... Look for the burnt/black component...

If in doubt change it out

Where are you?

atyclb · June 23, 2014

BKK

Porkster · June 23, 2014

There'll be hoards of places to get it sorted in Bangkok,

Just google it

Porkster · June 23, 2014

Or drive around and look for a place with loads of 2nd hand TV's and electronic equipment lying around outside...

atyclb · June 24, 2014

One such streetside electrical shop could not fix it neither could Amorn Shop

Crossy · June 24, 2014

If Amorn Service couldn't fix it, it's scrap, they're usually pretty good

Porkster · June 24, 2014

Anyone know a place that can troubleshoot and repair a PCB board?

It is the control board from a Fujika induction cooktop. The company does not respond to multiple emails(english and thai) nor telephone calls from a Thai person.

Where is their Thai headquarters? Bkk?

Or trick them into responding

Use a different email and send a mail asking them if they can supply a bulk batch of a certain model of Cook tops, ovens, microwaves blah blah blah for a housing project

Then ask them about future customer cars and service agents, places to get spars...

Do you see where I'm going? [emoji6]

Satcommlee · June 24, 2014

Are you trying to repair something that you can buy for like 1000 baht? It's not worth anyone's effort even in Thailand!

As suggested Amorn is your best bet..

atyclb · June 24, 2014

Are you trying to repair something that you can buy for like 1000 baht? It's not worth anyone's effort even in Thailand!

As suggested Amorn is your best bet..

Except it is a 2 hob unit and that sits flush with a marble countertop and far from 1000 baht.

Crossy · June 24, 2014

These mains powered boards often suffer from 'domino-effect', one device fails which starts a destructive sequence killing most of the semiconductors on the board.

The usual fix is brute force, replace everything. Unfortunately many equipment manufacturers remove identifying marks from a couple of critical devices leaving you in the awkward position of having to go to them for the device (because you don't know what it is).

As I noted earlier, if Amorn Service failed you're pretty much stuffed

I assume you've tried the contact details here http://www.fujika-electric.com/contact.html why not pay them a visit, take your Thai speaker of course, you may score.

EDIT Is that the correct Fujika? I don't see any cooktops on their products page

EDIT 2 if the board has an identifying number try Googling it, it may pop up in a service parts catalog.

atyclb · June 25, 2014

These mains powered boards often suffer from 'domino-effect', one device fails which starts a destructive sequence killing most of the semiconductors on the board.

The usual fix is brute force, replace everything. Unfortunately many equipment manufacturers remove identifying marks from a couple of critical devices leaving you in the awkward position of having to go to them for the device (because you don't know what it is).

As I noted earlier, if Amorn Service failed you're pretty much stuffed

I assume you've tried the contact details here http://www.fujika-electric.com/contact.html why not pay them a visit, take your Thai speaker of course, you may score.

EDIT Is that the correct Fujika? I don't see any cooktops on their products page

EDIT 2 if the board has an identifying number try Googling it, it may pop up in a service parts catalog.

Yes, correct Fujika. They no longer make the induction cooktops but i thought they may have some old boards.

i may post their wonderful customer dis service at pantip . com

IMA_FARANG · June 25, 2014

Might be more trouble to repair the board than simply get a factory part number and order a new replacement board.

Be aware that these days many circuit boards are multi-layer boards, especially in consumer electronic devices.

Multi-layer boards have layers that are have layers that run under other layers.

That almost always requires factory repairs and specialized equipment to get to those underlying layers to repair components connected to those underlying tracks.

As someone said, as even the repair shops might tell you, it isn't worth the effort to repair .... just replace the PCB with a new factory built replacement unit.

Not like the old days any longer when a man with a soldering iron and a multi-meter could find and repair failed components on a circuit board.

Not only that, many schematics are now company propriety and a repair shop has to purchase them or be a company licensed repair site to get schematics if they are even available.

Most factory licensed repair sites now do a part number look-up and replace service for PCBs, no more repair of PCBs.

atyclb · June 26, 2014

Attached are pics. number on board is 201-0022-0

I googles it but not much. Is there a special place to look?

Porkster · June 27, 2014

Well it's a single layer board for a start so faultfinding should be relatively easy.

There's no obvious signs of component damage judging by the photo, well... No black ones anyway.

Get a continuity tester or better still a DVM (Digital Volt Meter) and start testing the continuity of the tracks from point to point for broken tracks, and try to make the test from the other side also (the component side) at the leg of each component checking for dry solder joints... A common issue where the board has been subjected to excessive heat...

There are two IC's there which I would suspect from the start and I would change them out because first as they're the easiest component to replace.

I have no doubt that they can be bought at Amorn and I would get a PCB service kit while you're there, it should have a proper IC removal tool in it.

atyclb · June 27, 2014

Porkster,

Great advice, wisdom and experience.

What I am doing is transplanting the guts from a new same wattage induction cooker and the control touch controls. Small modification and it fits and tested as working but not reassembled yet. I noticed the new cookers electronics is much smaller than older units.

atyclb · June 28, 2014

Just one stumbling block. as the touch controls are imbedded in the lower part of Ceran I need to find a place with a wet saw to make the cut.

Crossy · June 28, 2014

Is the material ceramic, or glass?

If it's heat-treated (toughened) glass you cannot cut it, it will explode into a million tiny pieces and you'll end up buying a new cooktop anyway

Can't speak for the ceramic, it may or may not be OK.

Porkster · June 29, 2014

Just one stumbling block. as the touch controls are imbedded in the lower part of Ceran I need to find a place with a wet saw to make the cut.

Can you not mount the controls elsewhere? Extend the wires maybe?

Anything but attempt cutting heat treated glass...

Tywais · June 29, 2014

Well it's a single layer board for a start so faultfinding should be relatively easy.

Actually it's a double layer board.

Normal tests that are usually done:

1. Check resistors for any discoloration such as darkened or blackened in the middle. From the photo they appear OK.

2. Check for capacitors that are swollen. In this case I only see a couple of disc ceramics so not likely a problem.

3. Use an ohmmeter in diode mode and test the transistors and diodes. You can Google how to test transistors/diodes for instructions. Even though they are 'in circuit' they can still usually be tested without removal depending on connected components.

4. Visual check of PCB traces for burned out lands, or ohmmeter if one looks iffy.

5. That board also has to connect to a DC power module and to a high power inverter board. Need to see if DC is even being applied to the PCB. Can't see the IC numbers so will guess the voltage between +5V and +15V.

Last, describe the symptoms. If no leds or 7-segment led lighting then very possible the DC power module.

atyclb · June 29, 2014

Well it's a single layer board for a start so faultfinding should be relatively easy.

Actually it's a double layer board.

Normal tests that are usually done:

1. Check resistors for any discoloration such as darkened or blackened in the middle. From the photo they appear OK.

2. Check for capacitors that are swollen. In this case I only see a couple of disc ceramics so not likely a problem.

3. Use an ohmmeter in diode mode and test the transistors and diodes. You can Google how to test transistors/diodes for instructions. Even though they are 'in circuit' they can still usually be tested without removal depending on connected components.

4. Visual check of PCB traces for burned out lands, or ohmmeter if one looks iffy.

5. That board also has to connect to a DC power module and to a high power inverter board. Need to see if DC is even being applied to the PCB. Can't see the IC numbers so will guess the voltage between +5V and +15V.

Last, describe the symptoms. If no leds or 7-segment led lighting then very possible the DC power module.

When it was last connected and powered on the LED was on but showed some garbled symbols and beeped.

Thanks for helpful info

atyclb · June 29, 2014

Apparently it is Ceran like heat treated glass.

I have cut granite before with a wet saw and diamond blade. From what i see online ceran can be cut with the same setup

Tywais · June 29, 2014

Could you take a closeup clear photo of the 2 ICs or post the full set of identifying numbers from the ICs? Would help to determine what their purpose are and how they may relate to the symptoms.

Mrjlh · June 29, 2014

I know a place in south Bangkok but I couldn't tell you the name. I'll see is I can get a street view shot the place and location. Hope they are still in business.