Connecting deep fryer switch

[JesseFrank]

The on/óff switch of my deep fryer has died, so I purchased a new one, though it looks same it isn't same.

It has 3 connector pins, similar to to the original one, but the difference is that they have a color code.

Two pins are silver colored while the third is copper color.

With my multimeter I can measure that the 2 silver ones transfer when closing the switch, while the 3rd one never transfers.

I have 3 wires, one is life, the second is neutral and the third one goes to the potentiometer that regulates the temperature.

Which wire goes to which connector pin ?

I thank you for your fast answers, because the little one is waiting for his french fries.

Edited August 26, 2014 by JesseFrank

[bankruatsteve]

What color are the wires? I doubt there is an incoming wire that goes to a potentiometer - why do you think so? Most likely is that one wire is Live, one is Neutral, and the other is Ground.

Edit: I see you did say that two are silver and one is copper. So, let's assume that the two silver ones are the L & N and the copper one is G. Try connecting the silver ones to whatever is connectable and if there is no other connection then perhaps there is no ground?

Edited August 26, 2014 by bankruatsteve

[JesseFrank]

What color are the wires? I doubt there is an incoming wire that goes to a potentiometer - why do you think so? Most likely is that one wire is Live, one is Neutral, and the other is Ground.

Edit: I see you did say that two are silver and one is copper. So, let's assume that the two silver ones are the L & N and the copper one is G. Try connecting the silver ones to whatever is connectable and if there is no other connection then perhaps there is no ground?

As I said there are 3 wires availbale to plug on the switch.

One is red and goes straight to the live connection.

A second is als red and goes to the potentiometer and from there to the control light.

The third one is a rather thin white wire which is connected to the incoming blue neutral wire that goes to one side of the heating element.

The pins on the switch are silver and copper, not the wires

Edited August 26, 2014 by JesseFrank

[RichCor]

Your description is awful.

Technically, I would only suggest replacing exact like with like. Rewiring A Deep Fryer with a mismatched part is just doubling your chance of winning a Darwin award.

Is the new part a recommended replacement for the old one? What do the instructions say? What does the service site say?

Can you take a picture of the OLD and NEW temperature controller and post it here?

It the temperature controller a "removable module", or physically incorporated into the unit?

[RichCor]

As I said there are 3 wires availbale to plug on the switch.

One is red and goes straight to the live connection.

A second is als red and goes to the potentiometer and from there to the control light.

The third one is a rather thin white wire which is connected to the incoming blue neutral wire that goes to one side of the heating element.

The pins on the switch are silver and copper, not the wires

If you pulled out a 240vac "lighted" toggle switch, then the Three-Leg Switch will have inputs for (1) LIVE, (2) LIVE-OUT & Live for Bulb, (3) Neutral for Bulb

I would suggest you figure out which legs are which as they all will probably have continuity. Leg (2) and (3) will offer will offer a constant connection in either switch position (On/Off) and Resistance (because of the bulb). Leg (1) will be switched (on/off) to both Leg (2) and (3).

Leg (1) will be easy to find. You need to get Leg (2) and (3) correct as one will light the bulb, wire it wrong and you get a direct short.

Edited August 26, 2014 by RichCor

[JesseFrank]

Your description is awful.

Technically, I would only suggest replacing exact like with like. Rewiring A Deep Fryer with a mismatched part is just doubling your chance of winning a Darwin award.

Is the new part a recommended replacement for the old one? What do the instructions say? What does the service site say?

Can you take a picture of the OLD and NEW temperature controller and post it here?

It the temperature controller a "removable module", or physically incorporated into the unit?

People should start by reading the OP before posting.

I didn't say that I replaced the temperature controller, I replace the on/off switch.

The switch in itself looks identical but is not from the same brand. I'm not gonna fly to Europe for a 10 Baht on/off switch.

Both switches have 3 pins, so if the it was fom the same brand I would know blindly where to place the wires as I took them off.

The new switch has 3 pins, from witch 2 are silver color and connect when I close the switch, while the third pin is copper color and doesn't connect to any of the other pins when closing or opening the switch.

I have described where the 3 wires that were disconnected from the old switch lead to. I would think that for someone with knowledge about electrics it is a walk in the park to give the correct advice.

[RichCor]

Try reading my second post

[JesseFrank]

Try reading my second post

I explained already.

Pin 1 + 2 have continuity when switch is in on position, disconnect when in off position.

Pin 3 never has continuity with either pin 1 or 2.

Edited August 26, 2014 by JesseFrank

[JesseFrank]

I found this on the web, and the switch looks similar. What I understand is that the left pin goes to the potentiometer, middle pin goes to the live directly and right pin goes to the neutral. Is that correct ?

[RichCor]

This may be closer: Colored pin is Neutral

[JesseFrank]

This may be closer: Colored pin is Neutral

If I understand correctly, the reason that pin 1 or 2 never have continuity with pin 3 is because there is a lamp between ?

[Crossy]

If I understand correctly, the reason that pin 1 or 2 never have continuity with pin 3 is because there is a lamp between ?

Correct. That diagram is how it should be, although 1 and 2 may not necessarily be that way round, if the light stays on no matter what position the switch, swap 1 and 2.

It is a 220V illuminated switch isn't it?

[JesseFrank]

If I understand correctly, the reason that pin 1 or 2 never have continuity with pin 3 is because there is a lamp between ?

Correct. That diagram is how it should be, although 1 and 2 may not necessarily be that way round, if the light stays on no matter what position the switch, swap 1 and 2.

It is a 220V illuminated switch isn't it?

Yes, 220V illuminated switch.

But you're a bit late with your advise, I was impatiently waiting for you to jump in last night, now the first portion of French fries has been digested already .

[Crossy]

Sorry Mate, I do have to earn an honest crust, sometimes this involves meetings that go on, and on, and on