First free solo Rock Climb ascent in Phuket -- watch it POV!

[Gforcejunkypkt]

Shame about Green Place but the awkward access to HGH may not be all bad.

☺

Yep, despite my last mis-adventure there you're right in this regard, maybe I'm just kinda being lazy:) After I got home and looked at the satellite images again, it might be easier to walk in not actually from the cemetery but following next to the outer wall of the nearby housing estate. Will wait for you or maybe Steve to come along for next recce there. As my little accident reminded me probably best not to be going too far out of bounds here by oneself, better to have a mate along.

Anyway next to check out are Steve and Hans' 2 Naiharn area venues, and I still want to go back and clean that thorn-tree blocked bouldering crack at CBC (which so far looks to be the best overall site for at least some further development).

[Gforcejunkypkt]

i just had a look at some nice sea cliffs directly below the big wind turbine between Nai Harn and Ya Nui 7°46'12.80"N 98°18'19.30"E

its about 20m high and looks like it has some pretty challenging routes including an overhang, the rock quality looks ok. some places to set up anchors on top and very easy to get to from the parking lot at the view point. would be nice early morning before the sun kicks in.

Hi Steve, I'm going to swing by this site today to give it a check -- if you're in Phuket PM me if you'd like to join up. Was also wondering if access is still ok at high tide or should be low tide? Also is it level or rocky at the base below routes? Wish I had a good bouldering pad!

Anyway it's going to be kinda high tide when I get by there today, so will find out soon enough. Also going to try to drop by CBC and clean up that bouldering crack either today or tomorrow.

[Gforcejunkypkt]

Had a nice little adventure yesterday at the sea cliffs Steve brought to our attention and will be posting info/pix about this site soon -- but Steve, as the 'discoverer' of these cliffs is there a name you would like to give them?? In stuff I've been working on after my recce yesterday I'm tentatively calling them 'Windmill Cliffs' but that's a bit lame 'cuz those of course aren't really windmills; and the place is halfway between Nai Harn and Promthep, but not at Ya Nui either, so I'm at a loss -- would be great if you could give this place a nice name

Here's one pic for now now, looking at the main boulder from the right side:

[Gforcejunkypkt]

Hi there, here's my little recce report after visiting Windmill Cliff -- no answer from @stevehaigh yet regarding site name so am open to suggestions by anyone wittier than myself.

Soon after I left the house on the little scooter it started raining for a bit but by the time I had gotten to Rawai it was hot and sunny again, at the clifftop it was a stunningly beautiful day and view. As @stevehaigh mentioned you can park next to the little sala at the viewpoint (and get some water from the vendor), then it's a relatively easy hike down to the top of the cliff (though esp. when the grass is higher you do have to be careful where you're stepping as there are some rocks & ruts along the way -- not sure if it's here or over at Promthep itself, but every year or two someone slips down from these hillside heights and dies).

From the top of the cliff -- which is actually about 7m, max 8m high by my estimate -- you can scramble down either side to get to the base -- but do check the tide table! As per question posed in above post, at higher tide you can't really get to the base of the cliff! When I arrived the tide was turning but still quite high, blocking access. So to bide my time I made my way just a bit south where I could see some possible bouldering and found a not huge but nice, slightly overhanging boulder to play on -- and as with the Windmill Cliff itself, I was surprised at the good quality of the (quartz-granite) rock! I thought it would be flakier and not so strong due to weatherization but overall it's really quite good

By the time I finished playing around there and making a little video, then scrambled back to the main cliff, the water had receded and I could get to the base, though the tide still wasn't too far away and so couldn't get a good front, panoramic view. Anyway there are several possible routes there that could be top-roped, possibly trad style too (though not super much there in the way of natural protection). So given it's probably not tall enough to bolt, top roping would maybe be best here. There's one route on the very right with some big flakes that I might do free, but the only problem is that the base along the entire cliff is made of big rocks that aren't level, and a fall from even 3 or 4 meters could result in a twisted/broken ankle or wrist.

So in summary, while not as much to play around on compared to CBC (or likely HGH), this is definitely a good find by @stevehaigh and a place to revisit for some fun, exercise and absolutely world class lovely backdrop -- who'd like to join me?

Edited November 29, 2014 by Gforcejunkypkt

[Gforcejunkypkt]

Here's some pix of the main wall at Windmill Cliff:

Edited November 29, 2014 by Gforcejunkypkt

[Gforcejunkypkt]

And here's a couple of pix of a nice little boulder to warm up on about 60m south:

I'm in the process of making a video which will show some more of this beautiful site but today will be a break from climbing -- I saw yesterday that they've left the MTB trail from some recent competition still marked with tape, so time to go pretend I'm at the World Cup Championship

Edited November 29, 2014 by Gforcejunkypkt

[Gforcejunkypkt]

For anyone interested here are a couple of videos from my first visit to Windmill Cliffs. *Best viewed in 1080p or 720p HD quality setting*

The first is a not super exciting but hopefully somewhat informative recce of the main area:

The second is a bit more action featuring the first climb of a small but slightly overhanging boulder just south of the main wall:

Edited December 6, 2014 by Gforcejunkypkt

[Tapster]

Hi all, and a big up to GFJ who has been risking life and limb to bring us a nice taste of what's out there in the rock of Phuket.

I'm looking forward to seeing this for myself. GFJ's enthusiasm and filming skills have brought it alive for me.

I apologise for not posting at more length while all this was being done but we've been very busy and are just on the point of having all our stuff packed and ready for shipping to Phuket.

I'm going to be off the forum for a week or three while chaos reigns and we'll be on the island on 24th December in time for turkey, Christmas pud, brandy and port....yum!

I'll be using the New Year to lose all the weight accumulated by sitting at a PC, arranging things rather than getting out in the open air!

Have a great time in the lead up to the festive season and I look forward to meeting many or all of you in the coming months.

All the best!!!

[Gforcejunkypkt]

Hi all, and a big up to GFJ who has been risking life and limb to bring us a nice taste of what's out there in the rock of Phuket.

I'm looking forward to seeing this for myself. GFJ's enthusiasm and filming skills have brought it alive for me.

I apologise for not posting at more length while all this was being done but we've been very busy and are just on the point of having all our stuff packed and ready for shipping to Phuket.

I'm going to be off the forum for a week or three while chaos reigns and we'll be on the island on 24th December in time for turkey, Christmas pud, brandy and port....yum!

I'll be using the New Year to lose all the weight accumulated by sitting at a PC, arranging things rather than getting out in the open air!

Have a great time in the lead up to the festive season and I look forward to meeting many or all of you in the coming months.

All the best!!!

Thx for your nice words Tapster and good luck with the big move! Drop us a line when you're settled in. Steve H. and I are going to be meeting up in a couple of hours then heading over to Chalong Bay Cliffs for some bouldering and anchor inspection -- first meeting of the 'Phuket Climbing Club'

[Gforcejunkypkt]

Here's a little report from the first meeting of the Phuket Climbing Club:

-- @SH and I met up at Villa HomePro then headed over to Chalong Bay Cliffs; he was quite impressed with the main wall and sees a lot of potential there; on the whole it's easier climbing, but good enough to keep in shape and/or practice rope work.

-- I decided to take him around the back side so we could clear that crack protected by the thorn tree (see earlier 'Biking, Hiking, Climbing and Thorn Tree Fighting'). However I forgot to advise him to wear some decent shoes for hiking and he only had a his flip flops. But being a trooper he took a lower route across the hillside and I took an upper route.

-- We didn't do anything major climbing-wise, but 'He-man Climb' of the day goes to Steve: when we met up I found him climbing up a crack to get to where I was -- in his bare feet, with one of his toes bleeding! He had stashed his flip flops in the crack as he was climbing up. He got a bit stuck near the top of the crack but by holding onto a tree firmly ensconced in the rock I was able to creep down and give him a hand up (didn't bring any rope this trip; next time will for sure).

-- We finally made it to the crack, but it had been raining the night before so the slope was wet and precarious in places -- one slip and you'd likely slide all the way down to the bottom, about 30-50 m. So it's a bit tricky making your way along this slope, as the angle is about 45 degree, not steep enough for real climbing but not flat enough to walk without much care.

-- Took me a good 30 min. or so to clean up the crack by cutting away the thorn branches, though at least a few of the thorns got me back -- it took about a week for me to get the broken off tips out of my hand and arm.

-- After resting and as I was starting to get ready ready to climb the crack, my backpack (which was sitting on this slope, with all 3 pockets open) began sliding down the slope; I could only stand and watch helplessly as it slid down the slow, spilling all of its contents (Sony Action Cam case with 2 cameras, E-cig case, First Aid bag, pocket knife, water bottle, Passport & Work Permit bag, and Note 3 telephone in a little pocket bag, which unfortunately was also open). So I nixxed my climb up the crack and instead had to make my way precariously down this slope to collect my various items as I could; it wasn't easy as some place it was sloped, others it was near vertical.

-- Luckily I found most everything, but my Note 3 took a bit of a battering, cracked the glass in one corner and some dents on other corners (but still works absolutely fine), and the case came came off and somehow my 32gb SD card popped out, which I could never find). For some reason I put my E-cig case in my pocket instead of in the backpack; unfortunately I lost this case again as I fought my way down the rest of the slope and through the jungle at the bottom.

-- While I made my way out along the bottom of the slope, @SH took the high route, and discovered that it's quite easy access from the very top of Chalong Bay Cliffs, with a trail leading from there to the little side road; so we can take this way when setting up anchors at the top.

-- I'll be going back soon to look for my E-cig case and climb that crack, and as soon as there's less rainy nights (which means the walls will be less wet the next day), @SH and I will be back to top rope some routes at the main wall -- if anyone wishes to join us just PM me.

-- Unfortunately no photos from the first meeting of PCC -- I took one of us at the top of the hillside but it was on my lost SD card:( -- no worries, more adventures await!

Edited December 14, 2014 by Gforcejunkypkt

[stevehaigh]

i had a great time, thanks for inviting me. i clearly blew it by not preparing with proper hiking shoes and long pants, oh well next time i'll know.

yes, i was very impressed with the main wall and can't wait to try it. looks like there are many potential routes up there in the 5.7 to 5.10 and above range,and all easy to top rope.

the top of the cliff is lined with nice sturdy trees that will provide excellent anchors to set up a belay station. it should be a easy to hike up there with some ropes and a belay device, set up and rap down then climb back up. we guessed its about 40m high, so definitely a good length pitch. with one rope you would have to belay from the top, but that's not a problem. best view anyhow while you wait for the climber.

also, after about 3pm, the sun moves round to the west far enough to keep the entire face in shade so you can get a couple of quality hours of climbing out of the sun

thanks GFJ for the invite

steve

[Gforcejunkypkt]

i had a great time, thanks for inviting me. i clearly blew it by not preparing with proper hiking shoes and long pants, oh well next time i'll know.

yes, i was very impressed with the main wall and can't wait to try it. looks like there are many potential routes up there in the 5.7 to 5.10 and above range,and all easy to top rope.

the top of the cliff is lined with nice sturdy trees that will provide excellent anchors to set up a belay station. it should be a easy to hike up there with some ropes and a belay device, set up and rap down then climb back up. we guessed its about 40m high, so definitely a good length pitch. with one rope you would have to belay from the top, but that's not a problem. best view anyhow while you wait for the climber.

also, after about 3pm, the sun moves round to the west far enough to keep the entire face in shade so you can get a couple of quality hours of climbing out of the sun

thanks GFJ for the invite

steve

You bet Steve, it was nice to have someone besides birds and trees to talk to -- I'm sure we'll have more fun adventures there and at other hidden gems around the area.

Edited December 14, 2014 by Gforcejunkypkt

[Gforcejunkypkt]

Hope anyone following this thread (or not:) had a nice Xmas and upcoming New Year's as well. Been taking it easy due to a nagging muscle pull in my right arm/shoulder which I got playing around at Windmill boulders. But today I got tired of sitting around and resting it so went out for an MTB ride in Chalong. I came upon this quite huge development going on (next to a nice new road following along the base of Chalong Hills (back behind the Phunaka golf course). I think people are using this new road as a possible way around traffic jams of Chalong Circle, but there were quite a few cyclists on the road as well.

But I couldn't resist doing a bit of exploration and seeing if there might be any possible climbing maybe down by the waterfall in development. After making my way down there I found that indeed there are a few possible shorter (5-6 m) bouldering routes next to said waterfall (which I was quite surprised with the amount of water coming down the fall for this time of year). It's mostly quartz-granite kinda rock, but you'd have to pick your holds a bit carefully as some of the rock, even bigger chunks, is a bit dubious (due probably to fact it's just been cut or blown out not so long ago). Around the other side here's a sign that says (in English too) "Rock blasting every day from 17:00-17.30" if memory serves me correctly, as I didn't stop at that place and continued down to the waterfall.

But there wasn't a soul around today 30th Dec. and I bet there won't be until maybe 2nd Jan., so even though my arm's not 100% I reckon I better get over there tomorrow or next day, might never have the chance again with the pace of development here.

For anyone who'd like to get off the paved road there's some fun to be had on a MTB as well, though again not sure how long this little playground will be accessible.

[Gforcejunkypkt]

And a few more pix from up close....really not difficult climbing I think, just have to be a bit careful with what you hold or step on:

Edited December 30, 2014 by Gforcejunkypkt

[Gforcejunkypkt]

Btw, Climb #2 is going to be named "The Joker" -- zoom out your browser until the thumbnail is even smaller to see why; a bit of natural 3d art, unless it's just my screwed up eyes (one is far-sighted and the other is near-sighted).

[Old Croc]

Must be fairly close to me, as those explosions have rattled the rafters and scared the shit out of the dogs several times.

I don't think any road along the foothills there goes far enough to bypass the circle. I'm a bit further along the escapement and would know if a road goes through.

That looks a bit more like a quarry than a development.

[Gforcejunkypkt]

Must be fairly close to me, as those explosions have rattled the rafters and scared the shit out of the dogs several times.

I don't think any road along the foothills there goes far enough to bypass the circle. I'm a bit further along the escapement and would know if a road goes through.

That looks a bit more like a quarry than a development.

Hi Old Croc, yeah, looking at Google Earth just now (which the photos don't seem to be very updated for that area), you're right, it doesn't appear that road goes anywhere near the Circle.

However, it appears there are some roads or trails that branch off that paved road and maybe go over the hill to Patong, maybe a future MTB adventure.

Yeah actually I was going back and forth myself whether it's a development or a quarry -- the way they appeared to be preserving the waterfall area gave me the impression they were creating a scenic lagoon, but really not sure maybe it is just a quarry -- in any case I won't be doing any climbing there from 17.00-17.30! Sorry for your dogs, mine wouldn't like that either.

[Tapster]

Hi guys,

Happy New Year to all of you. I hope you have a great night tonight!

Enmarie and I have arrived in Phuket and have just about recovered from the very busy last few weeks.

I'm glad to see that GFJ and Steve have been breaking new ground and I'm looking forward to checking it out for myself.

I had a look at the Chalong Cliffs two days ago and I think there's potential on the right wall which is steep and looks well featured. Certainly the main centre section has some long lines which, as you say, are more straightforward while the steep slab on the left is virtually unclimbable as it has very few holds, even for rock gods!

I'm going to be getting my climbing gear out of storage in the next few days. I don't have much gear until our container arrives but I'll be available and grateful for a few outings to have a look at the rock hereabouts, after everyone has recovered from NYE!

Cheers and have fun!!

[Gforcejunkypkt]

Must be fairly close to me, as those explosions have rattled the rafters and scared the shit out of the dogs several times.

I don't think any road along the foothills there goes far enough to bypass the circle. I'm a bit further along the escapement and would know if a road goes through.

That looks a bit more like a quarry than a development.

Any idea of what that area of Chalong around the quarry is called Old Croc or anyone else? I'm tentatively calling it Chalong Valley (though it's really not a valley I guess) but just wondering if it's got another name?

[Gforcejunkypkt]

Hi guys,

Happy New Year to all of you. I hope you have a great night tonight!

Enmarie and I have arrived in Phuket and have just about recovered from the very busy last few weeks.

I'm glad to see that GFJ and Steve have been breaking new ground and I'm looking forward to checking it out for myself.

I had a look at the Chalong Cliffs two days ago and I think there's potential on the right wall which is steep and looks well featured. Certainly the main centre section has some long lines which, as you say, are more straightforward while the steep slab on the left is virtually unclimbable as it has very few holds, even for rock gods!

I'm going to be getting my climbing gear out of storage in the next few days. I don't have much gear until our container arrives but I'll be available and grateful for a few outings to have a look at the rock hereabouts, after everyone has recovered from NYE!

Cheers and have fun!!

Glad you made it over ok Tapster and Enmarie, will be in touch after the NY's!

[stevehaigh]

hi climbers, i just got back from Krabi. Tonsai/Railey is awesome of course but way too many people on the easy routes this time of year and i can't get up the big overhangs that you find on tonsai beach. probably go back in the low season and try get some quality time on 1-2-3 wall

steve

[Tapster]

@Steve

Cool,man.

Next time you go, can I go with you? We can work those overhangs until we bleed!..... well, I need to bleed cos I'm a fat bastard at the moment!

Happy new year and see you soon, I hope.

[stevehaigh]

@Steve

Cool,man.

Next time you go, can I go with you? We can work those overhangs until we bleed!..... well, I need to bleed cos I'm a fat bastard at the moment!

Happy new year and see you soon, I hope.

sure, but one thing i realized going over there, is its well worth putting the effort into finding good climbing here. not only because its local and we can go as often as we like at zero cost ( its not cheap to go to Krabi by the time you factor in gas for car, boat ride to Tonsai etc and other expenses) but also, because there is no one else climbing here, so you can take as much time as you like and have fun doing it.

[Gforcejunkypkt]

@Steve

Cool,man.

Next time you go, can I go with you? We can work those overhangs until we bleed!..... well, I need to bleed cos I'm a fat bastard at the moment!

Happy new year and see you soon, I hope.

....so you can take as much time as you like and have fun doing it.

You mean kinda like this?

'MTB & Bouldering Mini-Adventure' @ Dead Cobra Quarry' -- not a hard climb but dodgy rock makes for a nervy little experience -- don't miss the explosive ending...

Edited January 2, 2015 by Gforcejunkypkt

[Gforcejunkypkt]

@Steve

Cool,man.

Next time you go, can I go with you? We can work those overhangs until we bleed!..... well, I need to bleed cos I'm a fat bastard at the moment!

Happy new year and see you soon, I hope.

sure, but one thing i realized going over there, is its well worth putting the effort into finding good climbing here. not only because its local and we can go as often as we like at zero cost ( its not cheap to go to Krabi by the time you factor in gas for car, boat ride to Tonsai etc and other expenses) but also, because there is no one else climbing here, so you can take as much time as you like and have fun doing it.

Hey Steve, good points about Krabi; for me it would often be a time thing, really only a couple times of the year that I would actually have 3-4 days available for such a trip. Speaking of time, I'm pretty busy with programs last couple weeks of Jan., so how about we get to together either this weekend or sometime early next week? Let's get you a first ascent to name on the left or right side of the central wall at CBC!

And Tapster would be great to have you along as well -- let's see if we can't find some good anchors above that right wall, which I agree has the most (doable) challenge there as well -- there aren't huge overhangs there but looks like we could string together about 4 or 5 smaller ones to make it pretty tough.

Regarding Dead Cobra Quarry, I plan to go back in near future as there are still 2 reasonably fun looking climbs that are technically more difficult than 'Snake & Shake', but with somewhat better rock quality (though still only about 5-6m high). Other than that not too much to really do there climbing-wise, frankly it's a better playground for MTB'ing, esp. if someone wants to try some more semi-extreme stuff.

Anyway if Sunday is too short of notice or you're busy, let me know when is a good day for you guys next week if you're keen to meet up at CBC to open a few more routes.

[stevehaigh]

i'm totally up for the mountain biking too, looks like a lot of fun

[Tapster]

Hi guys,

I'm not going to be ready for this weekend as I don't have my stuff from storage yet, nor transport to meet you.

Never mind, I'm up for all of the above next weekend and after that, during the week as well.

Have a great time and, GFJ, please will you pm me your cell number so we can communicate more easily?

Cheers!

[Gforcejunkypkt]

i'm totally up for the mountain biking too, looks like a lot of fun

Yeah there's actually quite a variety for MTB'ing in and around that quarry, from easier to extreme (still deciding if I have the cojones to downhill that main red 'mountain' (though on the other side where it's nowhere near as steep but still kind of intimidating in places; would be near suicidal to do it on this side!) Not sure yet but I might head over tomorrow afternoon if my shoulder is feeling ok, I'd like to experiment with some slow-mo MTB jump video shots, and/or attempt 2 other bouldering routes near the waterfall; if so will give you a call and see if you're free.

[Puyai]

I have been reading this thread as an ex-climber although I would like to get back into it. I did do a bit on Railey last time I was down there, 2 routes to be exact The second one I was slapping towards the top. I think it was 6b+, felt more like 8a+.

You guys must be psyched as some of the rock your climbing looks precarious to say the least!

As for bolting routes have you thought of using staple bolts. You would have to drill 2 holes, but I think they could be sorced/made in Thailand at half the cost, maybe even less. Just a thought, maybe something to look into.

Good luck with your adventures guys.

Edited January 4, 2015 by Puyai

[Gforcejunkypkt]

I have been reading this thread as an ex-climber although I would like to get back into it. I did do a bit on Railey last time I was down there, 2 routes to be exact The second one I was slapping towards the top. I think it was 6b+, felt more like 8a+.

You guys must be psyched as some of the rock your climbing looks precarious to say the least!

As for bolting routes have you thought of using staple bolts. You would have to drill 2 holes, but I think they could be sorced/made in Thailand at half the cost, maybe even less. Just a thought, maybe something to look into.

Good luck with your adventures guys.

Welcome Puyai, glad you're following the thread and hope we can help you get back into the sport! Chalong Bay Cliffs has some routes on the center wall that I think might be no problem for you; depending on how one puts them together they can be anywhere from 5.6-5.9 (sorry Yosemite rating is the only one I'm even vaguely familiar with). When we're getting ready for another visit back to CBC to top rope some routes I'll PM you and see if you're free to come along.