First free solo Rock Climb ascent in Phuket -- watch it POV!

[Tapster]

The thread is not dead!

GFJ, I knew about your shoulder, of course but I'm sorry to hear that it's at serious risk of further damage if you climb. I'm sure a little gentle top-roping now and then would be okay. My only rotator cuff injury was from climbing. It took 8-9 months to heal completely but I didn't have to stop climbing for all that time. As I was told at the time, let pain be your guide: just don't do anything that makes it hurt, during or after the activity.

I'll be fighting the good fight while you're resting up for a while. Our container of stuff arrives in Phuket on Sunday so after a lot of unpacking and sorting things out I'll be able to get to my climbing gear and take a trip up to Chalong to check out the possibility of routes on that steep right wall. I'll post the results here.

After emailing the guys at the Thaitanium Project (the Krabi titanium re-bolters) I've decided not to invest in titanium hardware for bolting at first. It's very expensive and with no guaranteed access rights and with only three of us so far, not viable yet.

However, I have lots of stainless steel hardware already so I can bolt a route or two for us to challenge ourselves on while we look at access and maybe also gauge the interest of others in the climbing community in Phuket. There's a guy who has a climbing blog and is based in Rawai so there are others out there.

In the meantime, I'm back to the sound of jackhammers tomorrow so it's time for an early night!

[Gforcejunkypkt]

Good stuff Tapster, been a bit glum about the shoulder but your words about your own recovery process sound encouraging. After you have your gear sorted and have time to head over to CBC let me know, not sure if I could resist a go at that right hand wall

[Gforcejunkypkt]

Came across this interesting little outcrop in the middle of kinda nowhere (in Samkong area, in between By-pass Rd. and Thepkasattri (Airport) Rd.). Not sure because I didn't go over to it (had my daughter with me, and it's kinda fenced off a little bit), but could be some possible bouldering/high balling. It's approx. 21 m high by my estimate and looks to be mostly good hard rock (which is why it's still standing in the middle of a development zone -- I've noticed that when local builders/engineers run into too hard of rock, they usually leave it and build around it or just give up (e.g. CBC). Anyway when my shoulder is feeling better will surely take a closer look at this rock, if anyone else does in the meantime plz give us a report.

Edited February 22, 2015 by Gforcejunkypkt

[Tapster]

Cool, man!

That looks good and they'll only move it by blasting so maybe it'll be there for a while.

I spotted a long, quite easy-angled slab, again something like 20m, on a hillside to the right as I was driving home to Rawai on Chaofa West. Looked heavily wooded but the slab looked good. We'll have to have a look some time.

However, guess what? I've got dengue fever! Jeez! I've only been here six weeks! Anyway it's getting better so I'll be getting outdoors soon as my gear has arrived....yay!

Hope your shoulder is improving.

Cheers

[Gforcejunkypkt]

Ouch, sorry to hear about the Dengue Tapster! Glad to hear it's getting better though -- keep us up to date on when your gear has arrived, hopefully we'll both be better up to scratch by then.

[Gforcejunkypkt]

uploadfromtaptalk1412928274189.jpg

The satellite image is better. Can See the stone.

Thanks for sharing @hansgruber! Actually I know that formation and was going to mention about it but you beat me to it Like Chalong Bay Cliffs it's an abandoned development site that looks like someone was wanting to develop but gave up -- and that was many years ago! It's down Rassada Rd. not super far from Rajahabat University (but on the other side of Thepkassatri Rd.) About 13 years or so ago I lived down that road for about 6 months and could see the area, which one day I hiked back into (it's not super far). If memory serves me correctly I think yes, it is at least as high if not higher than the center section of Chalong Bay Cliffs; I also have the impression it was wider in scope as well but can't remember for sure.

However, I do also distinctly remember walking up to one of the walls and testing some rock, which broke away pretty easily, instant turn off to a mostly solo climber, and never went back. Part of the problem is that wall largely faces west, so gets more sun, wind and rain (and which is why the CBC site is largely good rock, because it faces south and receives less of these).

All of that said, it's quite possible that with the help of another person or two and some top ropes, that some of the better routes could be cleaned of weathered rock and made into good climbs -- certainly worth another look!

And also glad to hear that you like hiking and exploring -- as I'd bet you know there are actually a lot of "unvisited/unseen" (except maybe by rubber tree planters/harvesters perhaps) places in the hills and jungles of Phuket! So would be great to have an "on the ground" adventurer like yourself (or any others' contributions welcome too), keeping an eye open for interesting rock formations (even shorter boulders, esp. if they're good rock). And if you find a cool place that we are able to climb at, we'll be happy to name the site after you, maybe "Hans Gruber Heights" (or whatever takes your fancy).

Esp. if people are interested to contribute or even just check out the adventures of others, as mused above in a previous post, maybe we can start a new sub-forum, something like Phuket Adventures & Explorations (only outdoor stuff of course, no bars, shopping or restaurants), though not being very long here on TV I wouldn't know at this point how to do that or if even possible. Sorry for the long post!

How about Hans Gruber Fell?

hans fall.jpg

A fell (from Old Norse fell, fjall, "mountain"[1]) is a high and barren landscape feature, such as a mountain range or moor-covered hills - Wiki

Well for now Old Croc I might suggest Gforcejunky Fell as that's what happened during my attempted recce of this site, though fortunately not while actually on any vertical rock -- plz check out the video below when you have time. The only workable access to this cliff that I could find (short of jumping over housing/estate walls) requires several hundred meters of bushwacking through spider and snake infested jungle behind a possibly ghost infested Chinese cemetery. And even if you did cut a trail with a machete it would be taken back by the jungle within a couple of weeks or month. So as you can see in the video I basically gave up (for the time being) as a) I was alone and I knew I and probably others would rarely have such time for trekking into that site (esp. compared to the ease of getting to Chalong Bay Cliffs).

The very 'easiest' access would probably be from the top I think, but there's a housing development blocking access to that and the security guard was quite adamant that I wasn't getting inside (even when I lied and said I was looking for a house to rent; he said none available and shooed me away quite more sternly than your average Thai usually would).

So while I'm not saying this site is impossible to develop, it would take a lot more work -- not to mention risk of further pissing off any resident Chinese ghosts from the cemetery there...

"Haunted Cemetery Heights" -- Recce report:

Well @Tapster has a bit more time on his hands as of late, and my shoulder recovery is about 90%, so recently we decided to get out for a little recce at what we were previously referring to as Rassada Heights/Hans Gruber Heights, an abandoned 'quarry' type cliff area not super far from downtown Phuket City, but tucked away in pretty thick jungle and with limited access routes. But we were able to find what is the easiest way in, by parking near then skirting around the Chinese Cemetery.

Apparently though we didn't skirt far enough to appease the mischievous resident cemetery spirits...not 10 seconds after getting out of the truck it started pouring, which didn't really stop for about 40 min. later. But it wasn't just the rain: on the way out -- and just like when I was leaving the last time (see post/video above), @Tapster -- normally a half billy goat kinda guy -- slipped on little log hidden in the jungle floor and fell quite heavily onto his left shoulder. Though a trooper he was in quite some pain, esp. driving home. Luckily it appears to be a bruised muscle and not a rotator cuff injury like I'm recovering from for 5 months already, I'm sure he'll be back in action soon.

But nonetheless we're convinced there's a very good chance the place is indeed haunted -- I dare anyone to go traipsing around there at 12 midnight!

All of that said, we're elated that the rock itself looks like it has great potential! (even better than Chalong Bay Heights). Once you hike through a bit of jungle it opens up into a big and quite beautiful natural amphitheater, including a couple of little waterfalls and ponds. The height of the cliffs range from ~20m to ~50m. There's a variety of difficulty levels from easy scrambles good for beginners, to medium level stuff and then some tantalizing, harder looking routes featuring overhangs and some decent little roofs. Esp. the harder stuff is going to take a bit of cleaning and checking for loose rocks/boulders, but most of it is good quality quartz granite we're happy to report. On the very right side of the 'amphitheater' appears to be some possibly good bouldering & highball routes.

So more interesting potential for Phuket rock climbing -- though note we have not yet contacted (or found out who is) the owner, or received their permission to climb there -- next trip I will investigate this further by checking with some locals. Pix coming in a subsequent post.

Edited June 10, 2015 by Gforcejunkypkt

[Gforcejunkypkt]

Haunted Cemetery Heights: a few pix and video stills:

[exbikey]

Hy guys,

Don't know if anyone has tried the place but travelling the back road from behind the Phuket Bangkok hospital heading towards the football stadium/Central interchange, you pass the Green Condo. Behind the condo complex there's a rocky outcrop that may have possibilities.

My rock climbing days ended some 45 years ago, somewhere in Snowdoniai think. Enjoy

[Gforcejunkypkt]

Hy guys,

Don't know if anyone has tried the place but travelling the back road from behind the Phuket Bangkok hospital heading towards the football stadium/Central interchange, you pass the Green Condo. Behind the condo complex there's a rocky outcrop that may have possibilities.

My rock climbing days ended some 45 years ago, somewhere in Snowdoniai think. Enjoy

Thanks for contributing @exbikey! Yeah I made a post about this place earlier in this thread with a few pix after going there to check it out. There are indeed some decent possibilities for routes there but the thing is, access is really only thru the Green Condo gates and the rock wall is right behind and next to the condos -- tentants would have a great view of any climbers. But given the wall is so close to the condo we certainly couldn't do any stealth climbing there and I really kind of doubt whoever's taking care of the condo will let us climb there, so have passed on it for now.

Now "Snowdonia" rang a bell but I just couldn't place it so did a google search...what a lovely area of Wales! (my mom's side of the family are "Evans" -- maybe some of my ancestors had some adventures there long long ago!

[Gforcejunkypkt]

If anyone's bored and wants to see a little action and beautiful nature (one of the coolest spots in Phuket imho)....I was recently back at the top of Chalong Bay Cliffs, but not for climbing...

[media]

[/media]

*Best watched in HD

**As mentioned in a previous post or two, please note this location is private property; one would be advised to seek permission from the landowner (bosses of adjacent resort) and/or at least make friends with the security guard and give him a tip:) Engage in any activities totally at your own risk/responsibility.

Edited February 19, 2016 by Gforcejunkypkt

[Gforcejunkypkt]

Next objective is to climb Kamala Kliffs -- though the equally hard part looks to be a reasonably serious bushwack up the steep hillside just to get there... @Tapster, @stevehaigh or anyone else interested in some exploratory adventure (would take about a full-day of sweat, spider webs and possibly snakes:) drop a line here or PM me.

[Tapster]

@GFJ

I don't want to be scraping you off the bottom of a cliff, so go easy on the high-lining for a year or more.

The core skills you need for that discipline cannot be learned in six months, no matter how often you've walked along a slackline.

Obviously, do what you will, but I only knew one or two high-liners in South Africa and they'd been slacklining for years before they went high.

If you want to get funky but not die, there are a lot of tricks and moves you can do to hone your skills, until you know you're ready.

(I'm only saying this because I care whether you kill yourself or not)

[Tapster]

And I'm definitely up for Kamala.

It looks like it might face due west which is great because a morning trip will always be in shade, and much cooler than if it got morning sun.

Let's do it!

AND.............see post below:

[Tapster]

And now, after a very long time in the planning, I present:

Dave's Climbing wall!!

I had to cut it in half in South Africa, to get it into the container and finally it's here.

The wall is 3m high and 5m long.

It weighs 300kg and so needs a lot of people to help mount it on its anchors. It took seven of us and there was a lot of sweat involved!

The three anchors go right through the wall of the house, with a steel plate on the inside. They are rated to 350kg each. It's totally bomb-proof.

The block and tackle set-up is yachting equipment and is rated to 300kg.

'nuff said!

Now all I have to do is screw a variety of holds onto the wall (see last photo), and begin the slow process of becoming climbing-fit again.

(Training partners, apply here!)

Enjoy the pictures!

[Gforcejunkypkt]

And now, after a very long time in the planning, I present:

Dave's Climbing wall!!

I had to cut it in half in South Africa, to get it into the container and finally it's here.

The wall is 3m high and 5m long.

It weighs 300kg and so needs a lot of people to help mount it on its anchors. It took seven of us and there was a lot of sweat involved!

The three anchors go right through the wall of the house, with a steel plate on the inside. They are rated to 350kg each. It's totally bomb-proof.

The block and tackle set-up is yachting equipment and is rated to 300kg.

'nuff said!

Now all I have to do is screw a variety of holds onto the wall (see last photo), and begin the slow process of becoming climbing-fit again.

(Training partners, apply here!)

Enjoy the pictures!

******************************************

Wow that looks great @Tapster -- job well done in getting it set up (and I'll be happy to help put up holds, just let me know when). That's a pretty good size too, look forward to trying it out. Btw, did you bring any crash pads? Looking to get 1 or 2 of these myself for bouldering, will check one supplier in BKK who might have them.

[Gforcejunkypkt]

@GFJ

I don't want to be scraping you off the bottom of a cliff, so go easy on the high-lining for a year or more.

The core skills you need for that discipline cannot be learned in six months, no matter how often you've walked along a slackline.

Obviously, do what you will, but I only knew one or two high-liners in South Africa and they'd been slacklining for years before they went high.

If you want to get funky but not die, there are a lot of tricks and moves you can do to hone your skills, until you know you're ready.

(I'm only saying this because I care whether you kill yourself or not)

Hey @Tapster, thanks for your advice, which I know you make out of thoughtfulness. In this case though I can say the perceived danger is arguably more than the real danger...about 2 hr. on/off the line, approximately 40 attempts and only twice (both shown in the video) did I come off on the cliff side, the rest exactly where I wanted (yeah I know it only takes once, but the same thing applies to lots of things in life, incl. riding/driving in Phuket:).

That said you're right, I know I'm not ready for high-lining yet -- which is exactly why I did that little mental exercise. Of course slacklining is a head game more than anything and highlining is a head game X 100 -- I needed to at least dabble in it a bit to see if I had it in me mentally...and it was a great/intense learning experience.... Having that huge expanse off to one side was really quite weird/intimidating, and at first my body absolutely refused to lean toward the cliff (so I couldn't stay on the line for very long with such one-sided balance). I was getting frustrated and almost gave up...But then after about an hour I somehow finally worked my head around the whole fear/blocking thing and started nailing it pretty consistently (4 single crossings + 2 double crossings). And that's exactly what I'm going to need to do when I eventually attempt Phuket's first (known?) highline -- which, with all due respect to your buddies back home, I am confident to complete this challenge (with a tether of course, and not super long, maybe just 15-30m), by the end of 2016 (with hopefully your help on the rigging buddy:)

And as you recommend, I'm working on other core skills now -- yesterday I was on the line (in the safe place we use) for 2 hours without attempting a single crossing, only practicing sit/chongo mounts (which frankly at this point I'm finding harder than actually walking the line!).

Sorry for the long post but I just don't want people to think I'm some crazy nut

Edited February 28, 2016 by Gforcejunkypkt