I just watched the YouTube video linked above and then went to check some of my bikes.

I checked my wife's road bike and my MTB. Absolutely no wobble of the cassette on the freehub.

Then I tested my road bike. Holy sh!t. The cassette wobbled nearly as bad as in the video. My wheel, and the video, looks like less than 1 mm of wobble but even that much is unacceptable.

FYI, my wheel is a Ksyrium Elite with over 30,000 kms on it. I'm not a fan of Ksyriums but that's what came on the bike. It's time to change the freehub body.

Back to the OP's problem, there should never be a mm of play in a new wheel.

I am not sure if it is a English misunderstanding.....

It is not a play. Like the parts don't fit together and have a play. (My first posting was misleading). It is "out of angle" I think also yours is not due to wear it was most probably all the time like this.

I just watched the YouTube video linked above and then went to check some of my bikes.

I checked my wife's road bike and my MTB. Absolutely no wobble of the cassette on the freehub.

Then I tested my road bike. Holy sh!t. The cassette wobbled nearly as bad as in the video. My wheel, and the video, looks like less than 1 mm of wobble but even that much is unacceptable.

FYI, my wheel is a Ksyrium Elite with over 30,000 kms on it. I'm not a fan of Ksyriums but that's what came on the bike. It's time to change the freehub body.

Back to the OP's problem, there should never be a mm of play in a new wheel.

I am not sure if it is a English misunderstanding.....

It is not a play. Like the parts don't fit together and have a play. (My first posting was misleading). It is "out of angle" I think also yours is not due to wear it was most probably all the time like this.

Play = worn parts

Out of angle = defective

Neither is good.

Play = worn parts

Out of angle = defective

Neither is good.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Backlash_(engineering)

Performance wise how bad is a worn freewheel mechanism? When you stop pedaling it's not going to freewheel as well but cycling is all about putting power to the pedals and moving forward faster. When you pedal the freewheel mech is not in operation. You can't win a race or get a pb time freewheeling. Surely a fresh chain is more important.

Performance wise how bad is a worn freewheel mechanism? When you stop pedaling it's not going to freewheel as well but cycling is all about putting power to the pedals and moving forward faster. When you pedal the freewheel mech is not in operation. You can't win a race or get a pb time freewheeling. Surely a fresh chain is more important.

You could try how much resistance you feel on the freewheel with your fingers. I doubt there is much difference after a couple of 1000 km.

You'll either wear the cassette riding it our wear out your brain thinking about it. If it's not making any noise and doesn't feel funny, just forget about it, ride, and check it from time to time. We all like our gear to be in top condition, but the flipside is that cycling can bring out one's obsessive-compulsive attention to detail far beyond what's reasonable for good maintenence.

You'll either wear the cassette riding it our wear out your brain thinking about it. If it's not making any noise and doesn't feel funny, just forget about it, ride, and check it from time to time. We all like our gear to be in top condition, but the flipside is that cycling can bring out one's obsessive-compulsive attention to detail far beyond what's reasonable for good maintenence.

You are right, the combination of too much work (and producing things with tolerances of +/-0.01 to +/-0.001) and too little time makes is part of it.

I use it now and it works beautiful....shifting gears is even better than before because I adjusted it and on the old wheels it was adjusted from Probike.