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Question regarding custom made furniture


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Posted (edited)

I have some furniture made by in the style as the picture. This mainly teak plywood with the frame and edges in full wood.

When making the panels I notice they make a frame and apply 4mm plywood to each side, so the biggest part of the panel is actually hollow.

My thought were that it was full wood, not teak wood of course, to which the 4mm ply was glued. The furniture maker explained to me that this isn't done because it would make the cabinet too heavy and he claims that all furniture, including the one in the picture, are made that way.

He however agree to use full plates of 20mm plywood instead of a frame at an extra cost.

My question is as follow.

Is it advisable that I request the full plates, and pay the extra for it, or will it indeed make the cabinet too heavy and is the way they usually do it sufficient?

post-222439-0-19494200-1431999619_thumb.

Edited by Anthony5
Posted

Unless you're buying solid teak specifically, yes, hollow panels are the norm.

If you want to go solid I guess it's OK - so long as the framework and hinges can properly support the added weight. Seeing as solid teak furniture doesn't seem to have any problems with it's weight, I can't see why you should with your proposed idea.

Posted (edited)

Unless you're buying solid teak specifically, yes, hollow panels are the norm.

If you want to go solid I guess it's OK - so long as the framework and hinges can properly support the added weight. Seeing as solid teak furniture doesn't seem to have any problems with it's weight, I can't see why you should with your proposed idea.

Thanks, let me add an additional question.

To have use plywood panels instead of a frame will add 20% to the cost. Using MDF panels instead will add only 10%.

Will the added cost increase the value, or quality of the furniture, or is it pure psychological?

Could MDF be used for the panels or is this too risky that it will expand in this climate? The panels will on all sides be covered with Teak plywood.

Edited by Anthony5
Posted

Check what they are calling MDF first...

mdf-vs-particle-board.jpg

If it's the stuff at the top of that photo, I'd say do it. If it's just particleboard like in the bottom of that photo, I'd say go for the plywood instead - that lower stuff swells like a sponge with exposure to moisture.

Posted (edited)

Check what they are calling MDF first...

mdf-vs-particle-board.jpg

If it's the stuff at the top of that photo, I'd say do it. If it's just particleboard like in the bottom of that photo, I'd say go for the plywood instead - that lower stuff swells like a sponge with exposure to moisture.

It is the material like the top layer they showed me, the carpenter however warned me it would swell with contact with water.

The question is, will the 4mm teak ply let water through?

Edited by Anthony5
Posted

I would use the plywood core on the large surfaces (the top) to make it feel solid when in use, leave the sides etc hollow.

I would avoid MDF, it's very susceptible to water damage and the local wildlife loves it.

We were given some solid teak furniture which was flooded in 2011, just needed re-finishing and it's as good as new, MDF became sawdust, plywood de-laminated.

Posted

I would use the plywood core on the large surfaces (the top) to make it feel solid when in use, leave the sides etc hollow.

I would avoid MDF, it's very susceptible to water damage and the local wildlife loves it.

We were given some solid teak furniture which was flooded in 2011, just needed re-finishing and it's as good as new, MDF became sawdust, plywood de-laminated.

Will the insects still get into it when it is covered with 4mm teak ply?

Posted

I would use the plywood core on the large surfaces (the top) to make it feel solid when in use, leave the sides etc hollow.

I would avoid MDF, it's very susceptible to water damage and the local wildlife loves it.

We were given some solid teak furniture which was flooded in 2011, just needed re-finishing and it's as good as new, MDF became sawdust, plywood de-laminated.

Will the insects still get into it when it is covered with 4mm teak ply?

They only need a tiny chink in the armour to get in and convert your furniture to the original hollow design. And you can bet that the 'teak' ply is only teak on one outer veneer.

MDF is supposed to be insect resistant, but the local stuff does seem to be less than resistant, certainly not insect proof.

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