4WD vs 2WD

[Don Mega]

The lowest cost vehicle would be a 100% Electric car. You can't buy those in Thailand, 555.

You can buy electric cars in Thailand, they are not cheap though.

The best 4WD is the Toyota FJ Cruiser. You can't buy those in Thailand, 555.

The Jeep Wrangler is the better 4wd in class. You cannot buy them here either.

The best 2WD car is the Toyota Prius. You can't buy those in Thailand, 555.

I personally would not say best 2wd but you can buy it here, From toyota infact.

Edited September 4, 2015 by Don Mega

[stament]

Some really deep and technical information on here that if I am being honest, some of it goes above my head. Put simply should I be contemplating buying a 4WD say Fortuner or Escape or Pajero if most of my driving is road based although a bit will be on gravel roads and in farm land?

Its essentially going to be used as a passenger vehicle not hailing stuff about like a pickup. Seems like 4WD isnt essential but is a nice have. Does it make it more appealing when selling, hold its value better than a 2WD counterpart. Also I have noticed that very often the 4WD model is the one with all the extras ie the top model and I like some of those extras ;-)))

[IMHO]

Some really deep and technical information on here that if I am being honest, some of it goes above my head. Put simply should I be contemplating buying a 4WD say Fortuner or Escape or Pajero if most of my driving is road based although a bit will be on gravel roads and in farm land?

Its essentially going to be used as a passenger vehicle not hailing stuff about like a pickup. Seems like 4WD isnt essential but is a nice have. Does it make it more appealing when selling, hold its value better than a 2WD counterpart. Also I have noticed that very often the 4WD model is the one with all the extras ie the top model and I like some of those extras ;-)))

The new Fortuner only has part-time 4WD, so it's only useful off-road. For on-road use, it's only a 2WD.

The new Everest is AWD (no 2WD switching at all), and the Pajero Sport has selectable full-time 4WD - i.e. both of these have 4WD systems you can benefit out of all the time, on all surfaces.

[luwahn]

Question:

With the push-button (electronically generated) Part-time 4WD system that is on many pickups and SUVs, the reason it isn't recommended to be used on dry pavement is because of potential shaft/gear binding (under steer) that occurs 'during the turning process'.

Would this 'binding' - mechanical damage - also occur when driving in Part-time 4WD (4-Hi) mode on dry pavement 'if' the stretch of the pavement is straight and with no turns?

[DavisH]

Everybody their choice, but this is Thailand.

I chose a 2wd when I changed rides, previous one was 4wd. Since I hardly ever really felt the need for 4ed. Yes, I have missed it, maybe 3 times in 3+ years. IMO not worth the extra expense.

I completely agree - in the case of a pickup, where 4x4 is for off-road use only, you better think long and hard if you really need it - otherwise it's just adding 'dead weight', literally.

In the case of cars with full time 4WD / AWD that's a different story though. For these, you have to weigh up whether the safety benefits are worth the extra initial cost, extra fuel usage, and extra insurance cost.

Again, looking at this video and considering the less experienced/capable drivers that might be piloting my cars, I'd be prepared to spend the extra on AWD: http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/topic/853053-i-hope-u-appreciate-my-driving-skills/

IMHOn, can you outline the 4wd systems used in the current pickups and suv's here? Is the 4wd version found in the new pjs/everest useable on tarmac? How about the ranger?

[malt25]

Just my 2 cents worth.

There's all wheel drive & 4 wheel drive. All wheel drive is constant, like Subaru. Four wheel drive in most SUV. You have to select 4x4, you always have 4x4 with all wheel drive.

On wet roads all wheel or four wheel drive is somewhat of an advantage. Most sensible drivers adjust their driving to suit the prevailing conditions, so unless you are in a real hurry, you don't need any sort of 4x4. Yes, I know, I'll get conflicting opinions from some purists.

I've driven the length & breadth of Australia, beach, deserts, mountains. Bad tracks & no tracks, total wilderness. From memory have only ever needed 4x4 on 2 occasions. The main advantage of most 4x4 vehicles is the extra ground clearance. If you are sensible & use some caution there's few places you can't reach with a 2wd vehicle. As mentioned, ground clearance is the big advantage of 4x4.

So, unless you are tempted to explore the unexplored, driving where you were never meant to drive, have sufficient baht not to have to think about economics, you really don't need a 4 x 4.

To all the 4 x 4 experts out there.. I've owned & driven numerous Mitsubishi, Toyota & Nissan 4 x 4's All great vehicles. But in most instances you just don't need them.

Cheers..... Mal.

I don't understand how you and some other respondents to this post can belittle the importance of 4WD, as well as the increased likeliehood of breakdown and the extra expense.

My experience in driving 2WD pickups and sedans in the deserts of Southern California and Arizona and Utah has been than any vehicle is likely to get stuck out there in the boondocks and especially so if you are not very careful where you point your front wheels. Places where it rains very little in a year, if at all, there are lots of sandy areas, even on the dirt roads, that will catch your 2WD pickup, no matter what kind of tires you have. And if it has rained recently - though the sky is plain blue at present - there are puddles here and there where clayey soil has held the rainwater. So your tires spin and get clogged with clay and become clogged with clay in a minute. Then you sit and spin. You find out your 2WD is really 1-wheel drive, unless you have positraction - so the off-side wheel doesn't turn while the spinning wheel just digs in. It works much the same in snow.

I drive as sensibly, carefully as most people and I have gotten stuck in seemingly safe places and have blasted through flooded areas sometimes where momentum perhaps, with the weight of a small trailer behind the truck, helped push me through.

I remember in Borrego Springs, California, that rich kids from the city would come out to the desert in 4WD vehicles and party and - get stuck. Because they don't know how to drive off-road, and their expensive pickups are not the same as tanks.

And I feel like others who have mentioned the extra expense for 4WD and more parts to break and more chips to fail.

The Reason it matters to me is I have 20 acres of dirt in remote Utah - where people go because that is where they live - and they get stuck there - sometimes have to leave the truck and walk the remaining distance to the home and walk back to the truck in the morining after the water has maybe evaporated - or in the night, after the slush has frozen so they can drive over it - and I have ordinary Dodge pickup. When I start building there I will be driving in and out a lot and hauling materials. In the past I have driven off the dirt track over bushes to go around puddles in the low spots.

So, what i would like to know is what type of 4WD/AWD rig do you advise?

(Besides go back to Thailand and ride a motor scooter).

Everybody their choice, but this is Thailand.

I chose a 2wd when I changed rides, previous one was 4wd. Since I hardly ever really felt the need for 4ed. Yes, I have missed it, maybe 3 times in 3+ years. IMO not worth the extra expense.

Yes, this IS Thailand. OP was asking about buying a vehicle here. Unless you are an enthusiast, weekend warrior, why would you even consider a 4x4 ? All wheel drive, maybe.

I'd guess about 98% of all 4x4's in Thailand never go off road. It's more of a status thing. Fortuna & Pajero & the like are all great vehicles. Size, seating capacity, towing ability & so on. If they were offered in rear wheel drive only, with appropriate price reduction, they'd be better value.

[stament]

Some really deep and technical information on here that if I am being honest, some of it goes above my head. Put simply should I be contemplating buying a 4WD say Fortuner or Escape or Pajero if most of my driving is road based although a bit will be on gravel roads and in farm land?

Its essentially going to be used as a passenger vehicle not hailing stuff about like a pickup. Seems like 4WD isnt essential but is a nice have. Does it make it more appealing when selling, hold its value better than a 2WD counterpart. Also I have noticed that very often the 4WD model is the one with all the extras ie the top model and I like some of those extras ;-)))

The new Fortuner only has part-time 4WD, so it's only useful off-road. For on-road use, it's only a 2WD.

The new Everest is AWD (no 2WD switching at all), and the Pajero Sport has selectable full-time 4WD - i.e. both of these have 4WD systems you can benefit out of all the time, on all surfaces.

Thanks, interesting so in the situation I have described the Everest and Pajero are better suited for us would you say?

[Ace of Pop]

Everybody their choice, but this is Thailand.

I chose a 2wd when I changed rides, previous one was 4wd. Since I hardly ever really felt the need for 4ed. Yes, I have missed it, maybe 3 times in 3+ years. IMO not worth the extra expense.

I completely agree - in the case of a pickup, where 4x4 is for off-road use only, you better think long and hard if you really need it - otherwise it's just adding 'dead weight', literally.

In the case of cars with full time 4WD / AWD that's a different story though. For these, you have to weigh up whether the safety benefits are worth the extra initial cost, extra fuel usage, and extra insurance cost.

Again, looking at this video and considering the less experienced/capable drivers that might be piloting my cars, I'd be prepared to spend the extra on AWD: http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/topic/853053-i-hope-u-appreciate-my-driving-skills/

Most Diplomatic ,give me some lessons please.[emoji56]

[stament]

Everybody their choice, but this is Thailand.

I chose a 2wd when I changed rides, previous one was 4wd. Since I hardly ever really felt the need for 4ed. Yes, I have missed it, maybe 3 times in 3+ years. IMO not worth the extra expense.

I completely agree - in the case of a pickup, where 4x4 is for off-road use only, you better think long and hard if you really need it - otherwise it's just adding 'dead weight', literally.

In the case of cars with full time 4WD / AWD that's a different story though. For these, you have to weigh up whether the safety benefits are worth the extra initial cost, extra fuel usage, and extra insurance cost.

Again, looking at this video and considering the less experienced/capable drivers that might be piloting my cars, I'd be prepared to spend the extra on AWD: http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/topic/853053-i-hope-u-appreciate-my-driving-skills/

Hmmm wife just passed her test,

inexperienced? tick.

4WD or 2WD? i guess 4WD

decision made, higher priced 4WD Pajero it is then ;-)

problem solved

[stament]

Everybody their choice, but this is Thailand.

I chose a 2wd when I changed rides, previous one was 4wd. Since I hardly ever really felt the need for 4ed. Yes, I have missed it, maybe 3 times in 3+ years. IMO not worth the extra expense.

I completely agree - in the case of a pickup, where 4x4 is for off-road use only, you better think long and hard if you really need it - otherwise it's just adding 'dead weight', literally.

In the case of cars with full time 4WD / AWD that's a different story though. For these, you have to weigh up whether the safety benefits are worth the extra initial cost, extra fuel usage, and extra insurance cost.

Again, looking at this video and considering the less experienced/capable drivers that might be piloting my cars, I'd be prepared to spend the extra on AWD: http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/topic/853053-i-hope-u-appreciate-my-driving-skills/

Hmmm wife just passed her test,

inexperienced? tick.

4WD or 2WD? i guess 4WD

decision made, higher priced 4WD Pajero it is then ;-)

problem solved

forgot to add the top model which is the 4WD option comes with 360 camera for added safety

[jerome2]

For aquaplaning it is safer... big rain im always on it but on straight roads only do i realy trust it to go fast

[IMHO]

Everybody their choice, but this is Thailand.

I chose a 2wd when I changed rides, previous one was 4wd. Since I hardly ever really felt the need for 4ed. Yes, I have missed it, maybe 3 times in 3+ years. IMO not worth the extra expense.

I completely agree - in the case of a pickup, where 4x4 is for off-road use only, you better think long and hard if you really need it - otherwise it's just adding 'dead weight', literally.

In the case of cars with full time 4WD / AWD that's a different story though. For these, you have to weigh up whether the safety benefits are worth the extra initial cost, extra fuel usage, and extra insurance cost.

Again, looking at this video and considering the less experienced/capable drivers that might be piloting my cars, I'd be prepared to spend the extra on AWD: http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/topic/853053-i-hope-u-appreciate-my-driving-skills/

IMHOn, can you outline the 4wd systems used in the current pickups and suv's here? Is the 4wd version found in the new pjs/everest useable on tarmac? How about the ranger?

There are basically 3 different systems available on TH market pickups and PPV's:

Electronically controlled 2H/4H/4L - All pickups, Fortuner, MU-X, and Trailblazer:

Basic 4x4 systems suitable only for off-road use. On paved roads, these 4H and 4L modes are dangerous - both to the car (mechanical stresses) and to the occupants (forces traction loss).

Mitsubishi Super Select II - Pajero Sport GT-Premium:

A more advanced version of the above, with a Torsen limited slip in the transfer case, allowing it be used as a full-time 4WD if desired, suitable for use on pavement. Normal power split is 40% : 60% rear, with the ability to lock the centre diff and split power 50:50 (4HLc / 4LLc modes).

Ford Terrain Command - Everest 3.2L Titanium and Titanium+:

A much more advanced system that is permanent All Wheel Drive. Normal power split is 40:60, but the system is capable of sending over 90% of the available power to front or rear as needed. This system also has different mode selections that control not only the power split, but also throttle responsiveness, the traction control system, and the AT shift patterns. As an example, when driving in mud you don't actually want a slipping wheel to stop spinning as it impedes momentum - but on loose rocks/gravel you sure do want a low-traction wheel to stop it spinning, so you're not spraying the side of your car with rocks - the Everest's system has different modes for these different scenarios. It also has the ability to lock the centre diff 50:50, making it perform the same as the above 2 systems if desired.

Edited September 4, 2015 by IMHO

[Big Guns]

I've found that the traction/stability control on my BT 50 3.2 4wd kicks in if it aquaplanes in the scenarion discussed. I run it in 2wd on paved roads. However, some features like TCS/VSC are sometimes only offfered on the top of the range pickup which happens to be the 4wd model.Basically check the specification before you buy

[luwahn]

There are basically 3 different systems available on TH market pickups and PPV's:

Electronically controlled 2H/4H/4L - All pickups, Fortuner, MU-X, and Trailblazer:

Basic 4x4 systems suitable only for off-road use. On paved roads, these 4H and 4L modes are dangerous - both to the car (mechanical stresses) and to the occupants (forces traction loss).

Mitsubishi Super Select II - Pajero Sport GT-Premium:

A more advanced version of the above, with a Torsen limited slip in the transfer case, allowing it be used as a full-time 4WD if desired, suitable for use on pavement. Normal power split is 40% : 60% rear, with the ability to lock the centre diff and split power 50:50 (4HLc / 4LLc modes).

Ford Terrain Command - Everest 3.2L Titanium and Titanium+:

A much more advanced system that is permanent All Wheel Drive. Normal power split is 40:60, but the system is capable of sending over 90% of the available power to front or rear as needed. This system also has different mode selections that control not only the power split, but also throttle responsiveness, the traction control system, and the AT shift patterns. As an example, when driving in mud you don't actually want a slipping wheel to stop spinning as it impedes momentum - but on loose rocks/gravel you sure do want a low-traction wheel to stop it spinning, so you're not spraying the side of your car with rocks - the Everest's system has different modes for these different scenarios. It also has the ability to lock the centre diff 50:50, making it perform the same as the above 2 systems if desired.

The Electronically controlled 4WD system in '4-Hi mode' is not suitable to operate on wet pavement during LOS downpours?

What is your view of the PJS 4WD system in 'full-time' mode? Is it smooth and does it effect FE?

[IMHO]

I've found that the traction/stability control on my BT 50 3.2 4wd kicks in if it aquaplanes in the scenarion discussed. I run it in 2wd on paved roads. However, some features like TCS/VSC are sometimes only offfered on the top of the range pickup which happens to be the 4wd model.Basically check the specification before you buy

Yep, stability control will help get you out of some sideways moments. AWD and traction control helps you avoid them in the first place.

Edited September 4, 2015 by IMHO

[IMHO]

There are basically 3 different systems available on TH market pickups and PPV's:

Electronically controlled 2H/4H/4L - All pickups, Fortuner, MU-X, and Trailblazer:

Basic 4x4 systems suitable only for off-road use. On paved roads, these 4H and 4L modes are dangerous - both to the car (mechanical stresses) and to the occupants (forces traction loss).

Mitsubishi Super Select II - Pajero Sport GT-Premium:

A more advanced version of the above, with a Torsen limited slip in the transfer case, allowing it be used as a full-time 4WD if desired, suitable for use on pavement. Normal power split is 40% : 60% rear, with the ability to lock the centre diff and split power 50:50 (4HLc / 4LLc modes).

Ford Terrain Command - Everest 3.2L Titanium and Titanium+:

A much more advanced system that is permanent All Wheel Drive. Normal power split is 40:60, but the system is capable of sending over 90% of the available power to front or rear as needed. This system also has different mode selections that control not only the power split, but also throttle responsiveness, the traction control system, and the AT shift patterns. As an example, when driving in mud you don't actually want a slipping wheel to stop spinning as it impedes momentum - but on loose rocks/gravel you sure do want a low-traction wheel to stop it spinning, so you're not spraying the side of your car with rocks - the Everest's system has different modes for these different scenarios. It also has the ability to lock the centre diff 50:50, making it perform the same as the above 2 systems if desired.

The Electronically controlled 4WD system in '4-Hi mode' is not suitable to operate on wet pavement during LOS downpours?

What is your view of the PJS 4WD system in 'full-time' mode? Is it smooth and does it effect FE?

I know that some posters are going to say "but but! but!!" in response, but no, vanilla 4WD systems should not be used on wet pavement. Only those with a centre differential (Pajero Sport/Everest) should be used in a 4WD mode on wet roads.

Here's why:

In the case of the PJS, there will be a small FE impact of using it in 4H, as it the transfer case, diffs, driveshafts etc all rob a little power. in 2H mode, some of these frictional losses are mitigated, but you're still carrying around ~100KG of added mechanicals which will impact FE. The difference is pretty small though - fractions of a KM per L.

Edited September 4, 2015 by IMHO

[IMHO]

Question:

With the push-button (electronically generated) Part-time 4WD system that is on many pickups and SUVs, the reason it isn't recommended to be used on dry pavement is because of potential shaft/gear binding (under steer) that occurs 'during the turning process'.

Would this 'binding' - mechanical damage - also occur when driving in Part-time 4WD (4-Hi) mode on dry pavement 'if' the stretch of the pavement is straight and with no turns?

That actually depends on exactly how close it was to binding before you set off. If you had just completed a 90 degree turn in 4WD mode, the drivetrain might already be 'wound up', so going straight might still cause damage.

Edited September 4, 2015 by IMHO

[Don Mega]

Toyota Vigo 4x4 handbook states you can use 4x4 on WET, icy or snow covered roads to provide better traction. I have done the WET roads thing in 4x4 for 8 years now.The Vigo has a mechanical engagement to operate the front axle.

Does the Handbook suggest a maximum speed ?

[stament]

this is getting a bit too technical for me now, albeit very interesting. When should one engage and when and where should one not engage 4WD on the different 4WD options detailed by IMHO.

[IMHO]

this is getting a bit too technical for me now, albeit very interesting. When should one engage and when and where should one not engage 4WD on the different 4WD options detailed by IMHO.

Standard 2H/4H/4L systems without centre diff:

2H: On paved roads, including wet paved roads.

4H: On dirt/loose surface roads, when travelling at normal speeds

4L: On dirt/mud/rock surfaces, when travelling at low speeds

Pajero Sport Super Select II System:

2H: On dry paved roads for fuel savings

4H: On wet paved roads

4HLc: On dirt/loose surface roads, when travelling at normal speeds (equiv. to 4H above)

4LLc: On dirt/mud/rock surfaces, when travelling at low speeds (equiv. to 4L above)

Ford Terrain Command:

Normal mode: on paved roads (wet or dry)

Snow mode: on slippery surfaces such as mud and grass (and snow).

Sand mode: a special mode for sand that focusses on keeping momentum.

Rock: a special mode for rocks, that maximizes traction.

Edited September 4, 2015 by IMHO

[farangmick]

Some really deep and technical information on here that if I am being honest, some of it goes above my head. Put simply should I be contemplating buying a 4WD say Fortuner or Escape or Pajero if most of my driving is road based although a bit will be on gravel roads and in farm land?

Its essentially going to be used as a passenger vehicle not hailing stuff about like a pickup. Seems like 4WD isnt essential but is a nice have. Does it make it more appealing when selling, hold its value better than a 2WD counterpart. Also I have noticed that very often the 4WD model is the one with all the extras ie the top model and I like some of those extras ;-)))

I didn't know the Fortuner and Pajeros were made in 2WD, at least I've never seen one. All Fortuners in my neck of the woods (Phetchabun) are 4WD and top speck "V" models. The roads round here are abysmal and a Fortuner is a status symbol to Thais. It shows the world that they don't need to hump sacks of rice around. Most farang here have a truck, a couple have an SUV, only one has a car.

A Fortuner or Pajero seems the right choice for you, and you won't be pestered to fit ten or fifteen family members in the back and drive to a funeral in Nakhon Nowhere.

[ToddinChonburi]

Yes and no to your 2 ?

[ToddinChonburi]

OK for all those 4 wd owners, Do you really have 4 wd or does one rear wheel spin and one front wheel spin ?

You must have a limited slip differentail in the rear , Do trucks come with this option or do you have to order ? This is for Thailand of course.

[Jitar]

Question:

With the push-button (electronically generated) Part-time 4WD system that is on many pickups and SUVs, the reason it isn't recommended to be used on dry pavement is because of potential shaft/gear binding (under steer) that occurs 'during the turning process'.

Would this 'binding' - mechanical damage - also occur when driving in Part-time 4WD (4-Hi) mode on dry pavement 'if' the stretch of the pavement is straight and with no turns?

That actually depends on exactly how close it was to binding before you set off. If you had just completed a 90 degree turn in 4WD mode, the drivetrain might already be 'wound up', so going straight might still cause damage.

Axle wind up would occur eventually event if driving perfectly straight because no 4 tyres have exactly the same average rolling radius.

Tandem drive axles sets on trucks have a power divider between them for the same reason. The truck drive axles don't steer so travel the same theoretical cornering radius but still need to avoid windup.

[off road pat]

You can go almost everywhere in Thailand with a 2x2.

Car servicing, reparations and modifications are inexpensive in Thailand...compared to Europe and the West in general.

Only if you live in the mountains, or in a rural community and the roads are muddy sometimes ? could you use a 4x4.

I f you only need a car to go from A to B ? any car will do.

If you want to go on difficult terrain away from the tourist places ? a 4X4 would be a better choice...!

Best regards.

[Stuart21]

"I have heard that driving on blacktop in 4WD is bad but I checked this and its not true."

Depends entirely on the system; there are many variations of 4WD.

Permanent 4WD can be driven on any surface any time, as a centre differential allows the rear axle to rotate more slowly than the front when going around corners.

The problem with permanent 4WD is that unless some form of slip reduction (LSD etc) is built in, and to the extent that it is, then any one wheel losing traction (eg one wheel on ice or mud) can spin, taking all the drive; so you stop moving.

Part time 4WD drives both axles at the same speed; engaging 4WD with a part time 4WD when on blacktop can allow windup to occur, resulting in very high torques in the drivetrain, which can damage universal joints or strip gears; smashed diffs are not unknown.

Use of difflock on any diff - front, centre or rear - can induce similar damaging torques when turning, on sealed roads. Difflocks (& P/T 4WD) also cause strong understeer - causing your to tend go straight ahead, irrespective of your front wheels direction.

Read the book on your vehicle.

[Stuart21]

this is getting a bit too technical for me now, albeit very interesting. When should one engage and when and where should one not engage 4WD on the different 4WD options detailed by IMHO.

Normally; drive in 2WD.

If you lose traction / get wheelspin, engage 4WD.

Turn off 4WD when you get back to good (sealed) roads.

[IMHO]

OK for all those 4 wd owners, Do you really have 4 wd or does one rear wheel spin and one front wheel spin ?

You must have a limited slip differentail in the rear , Do trucks come with this option or do you have to order ? This is for Thailand of course.

4x4 LSD's have largely given way to traction control systems in the current range of trucks. Chev still offer the Eaton locker as an option.

[MaeJoMTB]

Nit noi more expensive, six years ago 4WD added about 40,000 baht to the price of my D-Max. I have used it maybe twenty times on red dirt tracks in the rainy season. I actually NEEDED it only about five times. I got 4WD because a 2WD raised truck is a bit of a fake, like a 2WD Landrover or Jeep Cherokee. The main reason though was road holding and handling when hit by big rain. Rear wheel drive, and most of the weight on the front of the truck makes it far easier to lose, even on a gentle bend. (I was a police advanced driver in my previous life in England).

Nah,

Raised underside far more important than 4WD..

Your normal height 4WD won't be going anywhere when it bottoms out.

Most of the off road problems I encounter are steep dry deeply rutted unsurfaced roads and tracks.

And my raised 2WD handles them with ease.

Edited September 4, 2015 by MaeJoMTB

[MaeJoMTB]

Nit noi more expensive, six years ago 4WD added about 40,000 baht to the price of my D-Max. I have used it maybe twenty times on red dirt tracks in the rainy season. I actually NEEDED it only about five times. I got 4WD because a 2WD raised truck is a bit of a fake, like a 2WD Landrover or Jeep Cherokee. The main reason though was road holding and handling when hit by big rain. Rear wheel drive, and most of the weight on the front of the truck makes it far easier to lose, even on a gentle bend. (I was a police advanced driver in my previous life in England).

Nah,

Raised underside far more important than 4WD..

Your normal height 4WD won't be going anywhere when it bottoms out.

Most of the off road problems I encounter are steep dry deeply rutted unsurfaced roads and tracks.

And my raised 2WD handles them with ease.

But you drive a very light vehicle chummy....

robin.jpg

I once drove one of those in two foot deep snow.

More of a toboggan going downhill.