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Posted

Working fine to Thai standards cheesy.gif

Of course it will break sooner or later.

Absolutely mad.

Sounds like a problem with the pressure switch (replace)?

Looks like it is connected to a tank/"onk".

Still enough water above the outlet?

Posted

Either the pressure switch isn't set up right, or there's a leak somewhere. Whatever the cause if it isn't corrected you're going to have a shortened life of the pump set, and your electricity bill is going to be horrendous!

Posted

That leak would have to be tremendous.

If it's underground you would raise the ground water level blink.png

If it's in the house you would wade through puddles.

Close the water outlet from the tank as close as possible to the pump.

Still cycling?

Good luck with this landlord.

Posted

The pressure tank has no air - it should cycle much slower even if you had a large leak. It does not stay off during draw down because the pressure drop is pure hydro and no air expansion.

Posted

The pump gets it water from two big jars and the jars are both full.

Also IF the pump work, there is a lot of water coming out of our taps so I don't think it's a leak somewhere.

post-83687-0-95849900-1460523502_thumb.j

Posted

OK, this picture makes it clear that there is a pressure tank underneath.

Might be a "waterlogged" pressure tank.

Number one on the checklist.

Where are the experts to describe the fix? tongue.png

From the picture it looks like there is no valve between onk and pump?

One of the first things I would do is renewing the connection from the pipe T-junction to the pump and insert a valve.

It is doable without much draining of the onk.

Just getting a bit wet.

Posted

Does the line from the jars to the pump have a check valve (non-return valve). The pump should incorporate one in the build, but maybe stuck or broken. If no check valve working in the supply side the built up pressure will flow back to the jar as soon as the motor stops.

I bought one at Watsadu the other day for 160Baht for a one inch as we had problems with the one at the top of the well. We have another one at the bottom of the pipe in our tank (same as your jars) this one incorporates a screen and is also referred to as a foot valve.

Cheers

Posted

Can you write down the manucfaturer and model number of the pump.

Might help to describe the fix for waterlogging.

BUT: without being able to stop water from the onk this might be difficult to impossible.

Posted

They have a check valve built in - a cap can be removed and you will see a plastic plunger with spring - if your not seeing a hearing water going back into the tank then not a problem - turn off the power close all the valves and remove plug in side of red tank and drain completely - it will go glup glup glup as air enters to replace water after it is drained replace the plug open valves and restart the pump - it will rebuild the air head in the top of the expansion tank.

Posted

That's it in the upper picture.

That black/grey plastic plug,

Don't touch the screws.

POWER OFF

and

whether it will work with water intake not closed? No idea.

Or is there a valve between onk and pump?

Posted

Removed the plug so all water could go out, put the plug back again, power on and now it's working as it should work!

Thanks for all your help

http://v9.tinypic.com/player.swf?file=mkuhjk&s=9

You will find that with a small expansion tank and storage of water above it this condition will return from time to time, but now you know thumbsup.gif

Thanks for letting me know.

Do you know why it will come back again, is is a design flaw?

Posted

It is something like that (design flaw) - every time the pump kicks off because the storage is above it rather then a draw from below which the pumps are primarily designed for - some tiny amount of air is lost or something. Many expansion tanks have a rubber tube inside for the air so that won't happen but cheaper pumps are just a steal tank.

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