Coolant............. do i need it.

[ClutchClark]

5 minutes ago, cornishcarlos said:

 

You can also add a "Re-vitalizer" which is supposed to replenish the anti-corrosion properties !!

Never used it, so can't comment but I'm sure Transam or Strange might know more about that sort of product...

 

Revitalizer?  Is that another name for the "Coolant Additive" Ford calls for in some of their diesels? (OP--this is an off-topic question I asked and does not pertsin to your circumstances.

 

Draining the system will allow some small debris and rust contaminants to drop out of the cooling system so I would choose this option over a revitalizer. 

 

 

 

[transam]

Just now, thequietman said:

Never over heats and coolant just above 'Low' line. 

It won't over heat because your expansion tank shows coolant, which means the engine is FULL with coolant. If you have never had the coolant changed then do so, costs sod all......Do it.....

[Strange]

6 minutes ago, johnnywishbone said:

Just had a 2012 mustang gt need USD$3000 cooling system redo.
Never ever buy another Ford.
My VW TDI @ 100,000 miles gets timing belt and water pump.
Plastic impellers in pump degrade.
"The folks who make Water Wetter claim straight water is a better heat transfer agent than 50/50 eth. glycol+water."


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Well what needed replacing then? Something serious happened for 3K and likely not ford fault

[ClutchClark]

6 minutes ago, johnnywishbone said:

Just had a 2012 mustang gt need USD$3000 cooling system redo.
Never ever buy another Ford.
My VW TDI @ 100,000 miles gets timing belt and water pump.
Plastic impellers in pump degrade.
"The folks who make Water Wetter claim straight water is a better heat transfer agent than 50/50 eth. glycol+water."


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Water IS a better heat transfer agent but it causes corrosion, it boils over and it has minimal lubricating properties for water pumps. Thats why water and coolant are mixed--its a compromise your engne loves 

[Strange]

5 minutes ago, ClutchClark said:

Water IS a better heat transfer agent but it causes corrosion, it boils over and it has minimal lubricating properties for water pumps. Thats why water and coolant are mixed--its a compromise your engne loves 

 

Its not the "coolant" that keeps water from boiling, its the pressure. I forget the calculation off hand but its like 1 PSI over atmosphere increases the boiling point by 1 degree F so if your rad cap is 16 psi/1.1 bar (above atmosphere) then it raises the resistance of the boiling point 16 degrees. 

 

The coolant is a lubricant, corrosion inhibitor, and anti freeze agent (for the most part)

 

Thats why its so damn dangerous to take the rad cap off on a hot or overheating engine. The cap will release pressure, but it might not be able to do it fast enough, and the pressure builds, and when the cap comes off and an instant drop to atmosphere pressure happens - volcano. 

[cornishcarlos]

35 minutes ago, ClutchClark said:

 

Revitalizer?  Is that another name for the "Coolant Additive" Ford calls for in some of their diesels? (OP--this is an off-topic question I asked and does not pertsin to your circumstances.

 

Draining the system will allow some small debris and rust contaminants to drop out of the cooling system so I would choose this option over a revitalizer. 

 

 

 

 

Ford calls it a Re-Vitalizer on the link I supplied... Might vary from country to country but I'm sure a coolant additive is similar..

 

https://www.fordparts.com/Products/Chemicals-EngineProducts-Coolants.aspx

[ClutchClark]

25 minutes ago, cornishcarlos said:

 

Ford calls it a Re-Vitalizer on the link I supplied... Might vary from country to country but I'm sure a coolant additive is similar..

 

https://www.fordparts.com/Products/Chemicals-EngineProducts-Coolants.aspx

 

Thanks very much for the follow-up details.

These "revitalizers" are only to be used with specific types of coolant and there is a test that is performed to determine the correct amount of revitalizer to add. Most Ford diesel guys have moved away from this type of coolant and switched over to a 10-year/1-million mile coolant which never requires the annual testing and "revitalizer".  Sorry this is off-topic for the OP.

 

 

[ClutchClark]

42 minutes ago, Strange said:

 

Its not the "coolant" that keeps water from boiling, its the pressure. I forget the calculation off hand but its like 1 PSI over atmosphere increases the boiling point by 1 degree F so if your rad cap is 16 psi/1.1 bar (above atmosphere) then it raises the resistance of the boiling point 16 degrees. 

 

The coolant is a lubricant, corrosion inhibitor, and anti freeze agent (for the most part)

 

Thats why its so damn dangerous to take the rad cap off on a hot or overheating engine. The cap will release pressure, but it might not be able to do it fast enough, and the pressure builds, and when the cap comes off and an instant drop to atmosphere pressure happens - volcano. 

 

Man its a tough crowd to please here in the automotive forum !

 

You are correct that pressure affects boiling point. I had to look it up to know the approximate amount but its about:

 

Increase 1-pound of pressure = increase of 3* to boiling point.

 

https://durathermfluids.com/pdf/techpapers/pressure-boiling-point.pdf

 

But you can see from the chart in the link that at 50/50 coolant mix its about 260* at 13-psi.

 

A 50/50 mix will result in increasing the boiling point at Atmosphere from 212* to 223*...whether you need it or not, adding coolant does raise boiling point.  Can we agree that technically I was correct in my earlier post but you have the practical application nailed ?

[seedy]

Bickering, Derogatory, Off Topic posts - and quoted Replies - Removed

[Strange]

13 minutes ago, ClutchClark said:

Man its a tough crowd to please here in the automotive forum !

 

You are correct that pressure affects boiling point. I had to look it up to know the approximate amount but its about:

 

Increase 1-pound of pressure = increase of 3* to boiling point.

 

https://durathermfluids.com/pdf/techpapers/pressure-boiling-point.pdf

 

But you can see from the chart in the link that at 50/50 coolant mix its about 260* at 13-psi.

 

A 50/50 mix will result in increasing the boiling point at Atmosphere from 212* to 223*...whether you need it or not, adding coolant does raise boiling point.  Can we agree that technically I was correct in my earlier post but you have the practical application nailed ?

 

Haha yeah of course. 

 

Im not real good at talking about technical stuff in a non-specific forum format and I seem to come across like I'm trying to disprove everyone. Its only when I go back I see it. 

 

BUUUUUUT Adding coolant reduces the cooling effect of the water itself   

[ClutchClark]

I appreciate the "banter" with all you guys and certainly meant no disrespect.

 

OP-please let us know the outcome.

 

Cheers

[johnnywishbone]

 
Well what needed replacing then? Something serious happened for 3K and likely not ford fault

All maintenance was performed as scheduled.
Car has 100,000 miles.
Piss poor mechanicals.
Lemon?
Has Brembo brake package.
Caliper stuck at 10,000 miles.
Ford no help.
I fixed it myself.
AC compressor.
Replaced myself.
Corvette superior in all respects.
My Best car was 1978 Porsche 930.
Elegant in its simplicity.
Gas hog.
Impractical.
Stunningly beautiful.
Not for the timid.



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[lostinisaan]

2 hours ago, Anythingleft? said:

1. check radiator when cold by removing cap counter clockwise, if empty add normal water (as you do not have coolant mixture at your house) if full replace cap clockwise rotation (not too tight)

2. fill expansion tank (little clear plastic tank) with hose connected to radiator until half full with normal water (as mentioned you have no coolant at your house)

3. check around and underneath vehicle for water leaks - any leaks do not start engine until fixed - no leaks start engine and allow engine to warm up

4. engine is warm, check level of expansion tank (should be half full to upper level mark)

 

If only water added was to the expansion tank then do not worry about the dilution of the coolant mixture, the small amount added will not affect the engine on the other hand if you added water to both the radiator and the expansion tank then take the vehicle to a garage to have it looked at as you may have an internal leak (which is bad)

 

If you wish to change the coolant (although at this point I would heartily not recommend it) then make sure you have somebody there that can drive you to a garage (in a different vehicle) when the procedure goes wrong to take you to the pub

 

 

5. If you need to open the radiator cap when the engine is boiling hot and you really hate your wife, please ask her to do it. 

 

    ( Sarcasm) 

 

[johnnywishbone]

What needed replacement?
Radiator,pump, hoses.
I think it came to $2600 and change.


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[lostinisaan]

12 minutes ago, johnnywishbone said:

What needed replacement?
Radiator,pump, hoses.
I think it came to $2600 and change.


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   Are you kidding?  Radiator 560 bucks. Water pump around 90 bucks. Hoses depending on how many you want to change about 60 bucks.  Repalcement of all parts, plus coolant, etc..maybe 100 bucks. So please explain how you could come to $ 2,600? 

 

http://www.autobangkok.com/spare.php

Edited October 7, 2016 by lostinisaan

[seedy]

Bickering posts Removed. Any more accusations of lying, or Personal Attacks, and this thread will be closed and the posters sanctioned.

[ClutchClark]

3 hours ago, thequietman said:

I have distilled water but yes, I will wait until I go into town. The coolant is slightly above the 'Low' marker, so should be fine.  There's a Tyre-Plus in town. I assume they can flush the radiator for me. If it only takes 15 minutes to perform, it can't be that expensive. 

 

The downside to a TyrePlus is they are going to just throw in whatever cheap coolant product they have and there is only a slim chance it is what your engine requires.

 

Personally, I would go to a dealership.

 

Opinions from others local appreciated.