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irrigation set up


kannot

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I have only skimmed thru' the posts but it seems like the advice is certainly on the ball,  1 thing I didn't see was a fool-proof system ensuring the pump is fully primed on each start-up. Needs addressing. 

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13 minutes ago, Artisi said:

I have only skimmed thru' the posts but it seems like the advice is certainly on the ball,  1 thing I didn't see was a fool-proof system ensuring the pump is fully primed on each start-up. Needs addressing. 

 

Foot valve on the very end of the pick up in the lake or at the very least a simple PVC check valve will keep it primed. 

 

There is a brass screw on the pump cover, pop it off and fill it up. Probably take a minute to fill up the pick up pipe into the lake, but once done the check valve will maintain prime. 

 

Any of theses should work flawlessly. 

 

swingcheckvalvespearsthreaded_1_5.jpeg

 

Brass_Spring_Check_Valve_strainer_100.jpeg

 

51D-RG+wGWL._SX300_.jpeg

 

Just the foot valve diagram part. 

 

convertible-jetpump1.jpeg

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34 minutes ago, Strange said:

 

Foot valve on the very end of the pick up in the lake or at the very least a simple PVC check valve will keep it primed. 

 

There is a brass screw on the pump cover, pop it off and fill it up. Probably take a minute to fill up the pick up pipe into the lake, but once done the check valve will maintain prime. 

 

Any of theses should work flawlessly. 

 

swingcheckvalvespearsthreaded_1_5.jpeg

 

Brass_Spring_Check_Valve_strainer_100.jpeg

 

51D-RG+wGWL._SX300_.jpeg

 

Just the foot valve diagram part. 

 

convertible-jetpump1.jpeg

Good - now fully addressed - but could be problematic if used infrequently as I think the OP mentioned (haven't gone back to check that comment) 

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Just now, Artisi said:

Good - now fully addressed - but could be problematic if used infrequently as I think the OP mentioned (haven't gone back to check that comment) 

 

Yep thats what he said. Something like 3 months a year during the driest part. 

 

I don't think there is any way around a centrifugal pump losing its prime over a period of weeks/months. I think in OP's case it won't be too much of an issue as the pick-up will be closer to horizontal rather than vertical. The pump won't have to work nearly as hard. 

 

Just have to unscrew that brass plug on the top of the pump housing and top up the system after a period of inactivity if it loses prime. 

 

If the pump is out of hose range from other water sources - a couple milk jugs of water and a crescent wrench kept in the pump house will take care of it. 

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2 hours ago, Strange said:

 

Yep thats what he said. Something like 3 months a year during the driest part. 

 

I don't think there is any way around a centrifugal pump losing its prime over a period of weeks/months. I think in OP's case it won't be too much of an issue as the pick-up will be closer to horizontal rather than vertical. The pump won't have to work nearly as hard. 

 

Just have to unscrew that brass plug on the top of the pump housing and top up the system after a period of inactivity if it loses prime. 

 

If the pump is out of hose range from other water sources - a couple milk jugs of water and a crescent wrench kept in the pump house will take care of it. 

I was thinking more along the lines of a check valve seizing closed over a long inactive period.

 

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53 minutes ago, Artisi said:

I was thinking more along the lines of a check valve seizing closed over a long inactive period.

 

Ah yeah, that too. Also getting gunked up from lake stuff. 

 

Maybe good a good idea to have a decent quality union fitting in the PVC pick up so its easy to take apart, recover, & clean/replace. 

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27 minutes ago, Strange said:

 

Ah yeah, that too. Also getting gunked up from lake stuff. 

 

Maybe good a good idea to have a decent quality union fitting in the PVC pick up so its easy to take apart, recover, & clean/replace. 

This is the basic fool-proof priming system, the tank needs to be sufficient to counter inlet line length / volume.  

Screenshot_2016-12-19-13-27-40[1].jpg

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Calm down chaps  all in hand........... this  type  of union will be used  allowing easy dismantling if necessary, I also  will installer filters  like this although dont want to restrict inflow too  much, my  other plan is to use a  flexible inlet  hose mounted on a floating buoy so as  water  level drops  the hose automatically still goes into the water at the correct depth as  levels  can fall by a meter thru hot season.

I may end up using the system more than 3  months but before any first long term use Ill give it  all a  clean and the once over.

20130106_050039.jpg

20130106_050133.jpg

20130106_050310.jpg

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11 minutes ago, kannot said:

Calm down chaps  all in hand

 

Not arguing lol just talking  :smile:

 

11 minutes ago, kannot said:

my  other plan is to use a  flexible inlet  hose mounted on a floating buoy

 

This is an excellent idea. 

 

Hell if the PVC Inlet is long enough, you might not need flex. Just put a little weight on the end by the foot valve and then hook it up to your buoy. Flex would be better for sure though. 

 

Good idea regardless. 

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1 hour ago, Artisi said:

This is the basic fool-proof priming system, the tank needs to be sufficient to counter inlet line length / volume.  

 

We use this kinda setup offshore for stuff, and most of the large, self contained diesel powered centrifugal pumps we move around with the cranes use that too. 

 

Your right its a fool proof system. 

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21 minutes ago, Strange said:

 

We use this kinda setup offshore for stuff, and most of the large, self contained diesel powered centrifugal pumps we move around with the cranes use that too. 

 

Your right its a fool proof system. 

For the OP, it could be a piece of 100mm PVC with a couple of PVC fittings - cheap, easy and it works, no need for foot valves, floating hoses, etc  .

 

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30 minutes ago, kannot said:

Ok the company making the relief  valve are asking me  this  what  pressure rating do I want?

A-0.5 - 2 kg
B-2.1-3.5 kg
C-3.6-4.5 kg
D-4.6-5.5 kb
E 5.6- 8   kg 
F-8.1-10  kg

kg is not a pressure rating unless they mean kg/cm2 or similar you need to qualify.

It is easier to use PSI or kPa.

If you intend going down this route, the upper pressure should be something less than the pumps maximum head (pressure )

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30 minutes ago, Artisi said:

kg is not a pressure rating unless they mean kg/cm2 or similar you need to qualify.

It is easier to use PSI or kPa.

If you intend going down this route, the upper pressure should be something less than the pumps maximum head (pressure )

Yes it would be easier, or even in  BAR .

Ive already mailed them, wait for their reply, suspect they missed off the kg/cm2 and  just put kg, so it will be the 3.6 to 4.5 which equates to 51psi to 64psi pumps max is 47metres head or  67psi

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ok  heres  the  spec sheet  from the supplier you  have  to  choose the AL150T  for  water  not oil pump max  pressure is about 67 psi 47mhead so I  think the  3.6-4.5kg/cm2 which is   51-64psi would be correct.......anyone want to agree/disagree?

 Now I need to check again if they understand the one I wants for water, or if anyone can have a quick  look and see from my max psi metres head  of my pump which one might  look suitable the size of  the valve is the 25A (1  inch)

 

valve.jpg

Edited by kannot
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29 minutes ago, kannot said:

ok  heres  the  spec sheet  from the supplier you  have  to  choose the AL150T  for  water  not oil pump max  pressure is about 67 psi 47mhead so I  think the  3.6-4.5kg/cm2 which is   51-64psi would be correct.......anyone want to agree/disagree?

JUST NOTICED it shows kg/h for steam and air ( wonder if the staff in this co relaisits for water) but  Mpa for water ie the bottom one of the 3  types shown, Now I need to check again if they understand the one I wants for water, or if anyone can have a quick  look and see from my max psi metres head  of my pumpwhich one might  look suitable the size of  the valve is the 25A (1  inch)

AL-150T.pdf

 

I think you might be interpreting the spec sheet incorrectly. 

 

You would choose the AL150T - 25A as you want 1"

 

The valve itself is fully adjustable via the top nut on the valve itself. You would hook everything up, turn on the pump, turn the top nut while watching your pressure gauge for the desired PSI you want. 

 

The charts on the second page of your link are what the valve itself is capable of at different pressure settings and different sizes. In other words its not something they 'set' for you. You buy the valve fully adjustable. 

 

In all the charts, they are using the same AL150T with different fluid medias & air & standards. But its the same valve. 

 

So you buy the AL150T - 25A - then when you get it, you set the PSI you want. 

Edited by Aggressive
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On 12/21/2016 at 10:51 AM, Aggressive said:

 

I think you might be interpreting the spec sheet incorrectly. 

 

You would choose the AL150T - 25A as you want 1"

 

The valve itself is fully adjustable via the top nut on the valve itself. You would hook everything up, turn on the pump, turn the top nut while watching your pressure gauge for the desired PSI you want. 

 

The charts on the second page of your link are what the valve itself is capable of at different pressure settings and different sizes. In other words its not something they 'set' for you. You buy the valve fully adjustable. 

 

In all the charts, they are using the same AL150T with different fluid medias & air & standards. But its the same valve. 

 

So you buy the AL150T - 25A - then when you get it, you set the PSI you want. 

ordered  the 1.25  inch got  20% discount  so  7800 baht  instead  of  9120 baht...........Wifes  negotiating  skills

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