drtreelove

Insecticides are only a short term fix. Repeated use will be detrimental to the beneficial soil biology and important metabolic functions. Focus on good growing conditions, soil fertility and water managment which promotes plant health and reduction of pests and disease. Healthy plants don't get pests.

Not quite! This lucky cat has it made.

That's an awesome dream! But - "100% shaded for about 8 months annually" This amount of shade is a very limiting factor for your dream garden. But there may be some hope: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/special/shade/tropical-shade-gardening.htm https://www.google.com/search?q=tropical+plants+for+full+shade&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS914US914&oq=tropical+plants+for+deep+shade&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUqCAgBEAAYFhgeMgYIABBFGDkyCAgBEAAYFhgeMg0IAhAAGIYDGIAEGIoFMgoIAxAAGIAEGKIEMgoIBBAAGIAEGKIEMgoIBRAAGIAEGKIEMgoIBhAAGIAEGKIE0gEKMTU4MzNqMGoxNagCCLACAfEFJrPrEhXpA9nxBSaz6xIV6QPZ&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

pgrahmm has good intentions and good experience with ProAuto and is a Toyota mechanic himself. But I had a disappointing experience there a few years ago. ProAuto is primarily a tire shop. They wanted a lot of time and a lot of money to diagnose a problem that turned out to be a 5 min wiring fix at a Toyota dealer. I recommend Saha Panich, the Toyota dealer on Chotana Rd (Hwy 107) . The service manager named Sarot speaks English and thoroughly knows Toyota's.

Not a fungus infection. It appears to be a mealy bug infestation (a very common sucking insect pest). If so, you can reduce the population numbers significantly by washing them off with a strong water spray. And/or wipe them off with a rag or cotton gloved hand. If not on food plants, you can use a systemic insecticide soil drench. The insecticide will be taken up through the roots and translocated throughout the foliage, so that the sucking insects ingest the chemistry and die. Insecticide contact sprays have limited effectiveness because mealy bugs have a waxy protective coating that prevents chemical contact. The most effective systemic insecticide will be a neonicotinoid class of pesticide, like dinotefuran active ingredient (Starkle in Thailand) for extremely fast uptake and kill, but limited residual effectiveness. Or imidicloprid active ingredient for slow uptake but one year or more residual effectiveness. Consider using both. Improving soil fertiity and plant nutrition will help the plants build natural resistance to pests and disease. Use of high NPK, high salt index chemical fertilizers are a pest magnet. I hope that helps, Don

Ophthalmology Clinic Sriphat Medical Center 6th floor, OPD Sriphat building. https://sriphat.med.cmu.ac.th/en/service/detail/14 Good. But if your condition is not advanced, consider non-surgical alternatives, diet, drops, etc

There may be regional differences in conditions, climate factors, soil moisture, nutrients, and genetics.

Not critical IMO. Don't over-intellectualize it. Use the 13/64 that you get, and ditch the micrometer. +/- 0.2 mm is not going to make much difference. I've used 7/32 files on 3/8 pitch chain for going on 5 decades and done a whole lot of safe and efficient tree work that way. Concentrate instead on smooth and consistent filing strokes and angle. Insure good grip and control of the saw, good footing and solid stance. Keep your chain out of the dirt, and off of your leg and face. Save the beers and weed until after the job is done and the chainsaw is is in the shed. https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/7-32-vs-13-64-file-size.63238/#:~:text=HUSKYMAN said%3A-,In theory the 13%2F64 should cut faster due to,to do with cutting speed.

Yes the South American origin rubber tree, Havea brasiliensis, is tropical deciduous, naturally sheding leaves for a short period of time in winter. (I believe it's more of a drought-dormancy than a cold-dormancy, like teak.) - Not to be confused with another species called rubber tree, or rubber plant, Ficus elastica, the popular large leaf house plant, which is evergreen.

I just saw this. Any luck with diagnosis or treatment? It's unusual. Not sure what it is, but possibly abiotic (not a living organism, pest or disease). Upper leaf surface only and primarily on the lower foliage indicates a possible splash substance. No folage discoloration or die-back? It may be a cosmetic nuisance only. Only one plant? Try washing or wiping the leaf surfaces to remove the substance, with a water spray, wet rag or cotton gloves.

- unless intelligently cultivated with adequate nutritional support, soil health building, and proper water management.

Get a cat. Ours make sport of stalking and snatching them off the walls, with fascinating aerial acrobatics.

"I see my wife and her mother doing things while we are at my wife's plot of land and think, "That doesn't look right to me." I voice an opinion and am shot down ... " Good luck with that aspect of getting involved. How's your tolerance and communications for these differences of opinion and practices that "don't look right" to you. Because from my own experience and that of farming friends, that's not going to go away. If the frustration is going to stress you and your marriage, then stay out of it and let the wife and MIL do it their way. Some horticultural practices depend largely on whether you are growing for commericial sales, or hobby farming for personal use and ornamental value. For example, I'm not a commercial grower. I grow bananas for the awesome green beauty, fast growth and fruiting, and visual screening function, as well as for family consumption of the fruit. So I manicure the plants with weekly monitoring and trimming of dead and dying leaves, and I thin for spacing and directional pruning. All that may not be practical, cost effective or necessary for commercial production. The flowers can be used, cooked and eaten, but we don't often do that. We usually cut them off and give them away to neighbors or chop and compost. After harvesting the bananas, I 'chop and drop' the spent plant and leave-lay for mulch. The cut plant will regrow from the center, but I prefer to continue to cut it until it gives up, and I cultivate one or more of the offshoots. I don't have dairy or chicken manure available on site, so I buy and blend composted manures and other ingredients for my own COF (complete organic fertilizer. Durian have special requirements, especially for soil and water management, and prevention of root and crown rot soil-bor)ne pathogen infections. See TM Durian Farmer channel on YouTube for some tips. Papaya, mango and other fruit - its best to buy known varieties as seedlings or grafted young plants. When you propagate from seeds you are taking a chance at disappointment in the resulting growth and fruiting.

What kind of work are you needing? For a tree service, I don't have personal experience with anyone there in recent years, but I'm attaching an old list I have from the Thai Arboricultural Association, (TAA on Facebook). Forum member CLW had tree pruning done at his home in Bangkok by a woman-arborist owned TAA member tree service but I don't remember the name. Maybe he will see this and post the name and contact. For landscape design and installation contact Ben at Thai Garden Design. https://www.thaigardendesign.com/ For larger tree and landscape projects, Nong Nooch Botanical Garden in Pattaya has a services division.

Contact forum member Grafting Ken by PM. (He may not be permitted to post commercial plant sales information). Otherwise, It is possible to find grafted lemon varieties at plant markets, but look for actively fruiting plants for sale where you can identify the actual fruit you want. Lime and lemon foliage and growth habit can look similar when there is no fruit present. Kickstart is right about providing afternoon shading, but from my experience that applies mostly for newly planted and young trees. Once a root system is established, preferably in fertilie soil and with adequate deep watering and mulching of the soil surface, maturing trees can take full sun. Allow a full foliar canopy to grow and shade the soil surface to avoid drying and cooking the all-important beneficial soil biology. I have grown lemons in full sun in Chiang Mai and India and in the Arizona desert.