Crossy

The Indian satellite footprints don't make it this far south without a BIG dish

http://www.vipboxsports.me/ stream the Indian cricket channels plus loads more sports

They are perfect

Cheers.

Cheers Rob.

Yes the loo is the weak point, if it come to the crunch we will sacrifice the downstairs bathroom. It's completely isolated from the rest of the house, but SWMBO will be needing a new washing machine if it floods

If things look bad I'll silicon a plywood cover over the lav and stick a few sandbags on top

EDIT JAS21 has just suggested (on Skype) that a plastic bag filled with sand in the toilet bowl would be smart, this idea I like

OK, so the river is getting inexorably closer to the top of our retaining wall

When we designed our home we knew that flooding was likely so we set our floor level 300mm above the highest flood in anyone's memory.

Then came 2011

We had about 400mm of water on the lower level, at the time we were under construction so it was just wet.

Now we are in residence and I need to prepare, it's guaranteed that if we are ready then the water won't come, so our preparation will benefit all of Bangkok

We have four doorways that need protecting. My current thinking is 1" (or whatever I can get) plywood plates overlapping the doors by 2-3" on each side and the bottom. Secured with concrete anchors and sealed with silicon between wall and wood (masking tape on the wall first so we can get it off later). Say 600mm high, that's a good 6" above the 2011 peak.

If the water gets anywhere near 1/2 way up then sandbags behind to support the wood?

Submersible pump to take care of any leaks. Generator upstairs to power the pump if the juice goes off (it didn't in 2011).

Soooo, will it work, is it worth it?

Any and all thoughts welcomed.

Here's a photo...somewhat of a novice with this computer stuff ....so hope it workedP1000183.JPG

Can you attach a larger image please, forum software will create the thumbnail

Looks great, I don't suppose there are drawings?

Beer is available for a good design that we use, if you don't drink then a fish dinner (with giant freshwater prawns) will be provided at our restaurant, once the flooding goes down that is.

There is a mind-bending array of Al alloys to choose from http://www.euralliage.com/aluminium_english.htm

Trouble is, 99% of the stock suppliers here know: Stainless Steel, Steel, Aluminium, Brass

Unless you absolutely need a specific alloy I would just grab the 'Aluminium' of the right size from your local outlet, the common alloys are all reasonably easy to machine anyway.

Lets try posting this again.

Why? It was perfectly clear the first time.

It's the quick-and-dirty (should work for a while with good prep), can't hurt as a first attempt, method.

conduit adaptor http://www.electrical2go.co.uk/pvc-white-round-conduit-20mm-male-adaptor.html?gclid=CLv066LM5bkCFRF24godl3gAlA take a picture on your phone, and take it to the electrical shop, they will give the best alternative. They just glue on.

wagos can cope with 16A and are available, and are push fit, and available in Thailand

US Power in Bangkok are the local Wago distributor.

I'm investigating a similar structure so will be interested in this thread.

Ours will have to be beefy enough to support 10kW of solar panels (assuming the government actually get their feed-in tariff sorted).

All input appreciated

I'm no construction expert, nevertheless here's my 2c worth

I think there will be a quick-and-dirty way and a right way.

Quick-and-dirty: Give the area a bloody good clean (borrow / buy a pressure washer) and splodge a load of silicon around the edge, like you would a bath.

Right (maybe): Your idea of a cement fillet around the edge seems smart. But to do it right you'll need to remove the last row of tiles (and the A/C unit), key in to the slab and wall, use some of the waterproof jointing stuff they use when building pools (sorry don't have a name) and then apply your cement fillet. A final coat of waterproof stuff before you put the tiles back can't hurt.

Either way you're going to have to sort the drain to prevent the pooling issue, perhaps one of those wire cages will keep the rubbish from blocking the actual drain.

Look up a company in Bangkok (Samutprakan) called Miccell; they have a vast array of sound-insulation products and they are the factory producing it.

Miccell Building Big One Complex, 221/1-3 Moo 8, Poochaosamingprai Rd., Samrong, Phra Pradaeng, Samutprakan 10130 Thailand

Google them for a map (it comes up as a Bangkok Post site so I can't link direct).

6m longtail plans here http://www.wooden-boat-building.nka88.com/fr/5-free-plan-wooden-fishing-boat-promenade-dayboat/news/news-46-free-boat-plans.html

DELFTship software to open said plans http://www.delftship.net/delftship/index.php/downloads/delftship-free you'll need to register to get the download, but it's free

EDIT Software looks bleeding complicated but the basic bits of ply needed are on the woodenboats page as .jpg

If you have continuous conduit, may I suggest you get that junction box totally rewired, so you do not have any connections inside it! Then you will never have to get the said box again.

Good luck with that one

Even our new build had the wiring run piecemeal, the concept of a single length from breaker to outlet or appliance was just alien. Why struggle with a long length when you can join several easy-to-pull short bits? (I wondered why he ran out of yellow Wagos so quickly).

I caved and only made sparky replace the runs to the water heaters.

I've never bought a light with separate pieces. How did you do that?

Every circular fluorescent fitting I've bought here has come without tube or electronics, just buy the kit when you get the fitting. I assume it's to reduce the cost of the inventory and/or to allow the buyer to save money by transferring the works from his old fitting.

Regular fluorescents come with tubes etc.

I got a circuit breaker (installed yesterday, which was earthed. seems the best solution unless you are in a 3rd story condo. We only have two pronged plugs.

Er, that's not adding an earth, assuming it is an RCD / RCBO (has a test button) it is adding to your personal safety by reducing the possibility of an electric shock being fatal.

It will not stop your PC giving you a tingle.

Class-1 appliances still need a ground to operate safely, period!

To our OP:

Take the pragmatic approach, decide which outlets actually need a ground, i.e. will have 3-pin appliances connected, most will be in the kitchen and likely your PC.

To ground the ones that need it, if you can't get another wire in the conduit consider drilling through the wall behind the outlet and running your ground on the outside, next time you paint outside the wire will become all but invisible.

I would replace the un-grounded outlets with 2-pin 2 remind you they're not grounded.

You are missing the choke / ballast.

It's a big heavy white (usually) thing, once you have one it's:-

White to white in the ceiling.

Grey to one end of the choke.

Black in the ceiling to the other end of the choke.

got two of these lights from homepro & there is nothing in either box that resembles a choke / ballast.

here is a shot of the old light, i guess i need to somehow transfer the insides to the new one?

Yes, those (ballast/starter) are what you need - Crossy left out the starter though but may assumed an electronic ballast.

His picture showed the starter holder, assumed he had the starter

Those fixtures always come without guts, a kit with tube, ballast, starter and wires (or an electronic ballast and tube) is available next to the fixtures.

You are missing the choke / ballast.

It's a big heavy white (usually) thing, once you have one it's:-

White to white in the ceiling.

Grey to one end of the choke.

Black in the ceiling to the other end of the choke.

Did your sparks actually remove the CFL ballasts?

PEA spec. says 2.5m.

Does your heater have a built-in RCD / ELCB / GFI, if it does or you have a Safe-T-Cut or similar in your distribution board it's not ideal but should be fine.

If you don't have any form of earth leakage protection you should install something as soon as possible.

Taken at 6.30pm on a Saturday, probably our worst connection time:-

Worse than yours, Speedtest comes back at 2.95/0.43 Mbps

UK-TV works fine and net activities are amply quick

I'll retest on Sunday morning.

A post discussing moderation has been removed.

As we have noted many times, Thailand has some of the most draconian libel and defamation laws in the known universe.

We do not permit name-and-shame threads to protect both Thaivisa and our members (that's you) from potential legal issues.

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Please post a link to the info you found Dellie, so we can check.

I'll answer my own question for the benefit of others.

Yes, you can still get mileage based upgrades, you have to call the RoP customer service line +66 23561111 and navigate their awful automated system, follow the path to book awards flights and you'll eventually get a rep who speaks English and can arrange your upgrade.

I was earlier, but apparently you can do this up until 24 hours before your flight.