Crossy

My first 'true' hit (5th on Google) is in a Thai government document, scary

Boy do I feel stupid.

Nah, not stupid, and you won't make that mistake again.

We have issues with those microscopic ants getting in light switches and the pump pressure switch. Once a few have been crushed between the contacts dismantling and a thorough clean is required.

Indeed Steve, it's still unclear whether the device is an MCB or RCBO.

That looks very like a LuckyPro jet pump, HomePro have them.

How did you test your capacitor? To be honest the odds are on it being duff easiest test is replacement, does the pump buzz when powered but not turning?

If you pull the pump housing can you turn the impeller?

Running here http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/topic/667892-boltcd/

Can't access the site from India, can't ping it either.

http://www.downforeveryoneorjustme.com says it's down.

In the UK you can buy single RCD plug in's or sockets are they available in Thailand and would they cure getting a buzz from shower or washing machine?

No an RCD either plug-in or mounted in the board will not stop you getting tingles of unearthed kit. They will reduce the chances of your dying in the event of contact with a live wire or appliance.

The fix for leakage tingles it to properly ground equipment that requires it.

Crossy, what size pole mount transformer and cabling would the utilities typically provide if they were feeding his 5/15 inlet panel? Would it typically be one single phase, 3x single phase or a 3 phase transformer in a residential situation?

What's the customary procedure to have the system on the other side of his panel upgraded to meet his upcoming needs? Is it easy?

He's unlikely to have a private transformer for a 5/15, supply will be from a village transformer. If it's anything other than a tiny village the transformer will be 3-phase, hopefully it will be big enough to support his new supply.

A 5/15 will probably be fed by a pair of 10mm² cables, the upgrade to 15/45 3-phase will need 4 x 16mm² cables (depends upon run length from the meter), a 30/100 single-phase will need a pair of 35mm² cables.

These wires belong to the householder, so it's your responsibility to upgrade them, PEA won't connect the bigger meter until that work is completed. You can get PEA to do that work, they have the kit to climb the poles etc.

Getting the meter upgrade, is easy as noted above.

In a way they are correct, the locally available Square-D range is sadly lacking in 3-phase RCD/RCBO units. They do have individual RCBOs that replace each circuit's MCB, but if you have a lot of circuits they can get expensive. As a minimum you need to protect your water heaters as well as downstairs and wet room outlets. No real need to RCBO aircons or lighting.

Assuming you will be having all single-phase appliances (sensible) you could treat the installation as three single-phase systems and have a 3-phase incoming breaker feeding three small single-phase boxes.

This would allow you to use three of the ABB series of DIN rail consumer units which are infinitely customisable. We have several of these CUs with various timers, contactors and breakers to manage our whole house UPS and generator as well as the security lighting.

If you want to stick with Square-D use three of their single phase CUs, they do make 2-pole RCBOs that replace the main switches in these boxes.

What is the 'use by' or 'enter before' date on the visa?

Moving to the visas forum.

The second figure on the meter rating is the rated current 45A for a 15/45. In reality these things are incredibly robust and can handle a 100% overload without blinking.

To your supply requirements.

Forget the fridges, washer and oven etc. for now, these are intermittent loads and don't really affect things.

Big draw kit:

3 x 18k A/Cs @ 2,000W = 6,000W

3 x 6k water heaters @ 6,000W = @ 18,000W

With all that on you're at 24,000W about 110A

But you are highly unlikely to be running all your water heating and A/C together, applying diversity we can get you down to:

A/C = 4,000W

Water = 9,000W

Total 15,000W or 68A

As to what supply you need, that's down to what's available.

You could get a 30/100 single-phase supply, which would meet your needs easily, but it's not available everywhere. You need to ask your supply authority.

If you can't get 30/100 then you are looking at 3-phase, a 15/45 would be more than adequate.

Alternative solution: Get tank type water heaters, they're about 3,000W each, but even with 3 we can get the water heating load down to 3000W using diversity. That would get you 7,000W, 30A well within the capability of a single-phase 15/45.

It depends on your lifestyle, but in reality, a single-phase 15/45 would likely be just fine, we have a similar sized home on a 15/45, our (measured) peak load is about 10kW but only for a few minutes each morning.

MEN is Multiple Earthed Neutral look at TN-C-S here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Earthing_system

Have a look for a link between your incoming neutral and the earth rod, new installations are supposed to be MEN.

Either way a good solid earth to your main earth terminal will do the trick.

I'd use exit 1, taxis are at the bottom of the steps.

Back to our OPs seal issues, is there any possibility that the pumps run dry at any point in their operation? Dry running is a cert for short seal life

Possibly a failed check valve if the pump is above pool level.

I'm not a pool expert, but the Chinese LuckyPro branded water pumps are simple, cheap and rugged.

We got a 1.5" 1200 Watt unit for about 4.5k Baht, at that price one can have a spare waiting to be hooked up in the event of a failure.

My only concern would be compatibility of the cast-iron parts with pool water, any idea on that people?

I'm a little late to this party, however here's my 2 Baht worth.

We had a similar issue in our condo. I found that the hoses which have a stainless steel outer over a thin rubber inner were most flexible, the ones with a metallised plastic outer had a thicker rubber inner were the stiffest. Of course the steel ones were most expensive, we have them in the house now.

Regarding length, our guest shower room has two hoses joined by a 1/2" brass coupler for that extra reach.

Which Windows version are you using?

You could try simply re-booting.

We have a similar issue with a French drain around our home. It consists of a trench with 1/2 a 6" concrete pipe in the bottom, filled with gravel and topped of with river rocks.

Our weed solution won't work for all, but we have pet geese who happily pick off every last fresh shoot that comes through. They don't get let out every day and need to be fenced off from the veggie garden. Organic, ornamental, good guard animals and they lay delicious eggs too. Win, win, win

Except for the shit they leave everywhere

You mean fertilizer

OP wanted organic

Can't be absolutely certain of the differences (I can't find a datasheet for the 'T' version), but I'll bet it's just fine

Make sure you keep your Homepro receipt and the packing, just in case there is an issue installing the beast.

If your installation is MEN (as it probably is from the grounded neutral) a good solid ground connection will provide the filter with the best chance.

Do you have a N-E link somewhere?

Install the filter as close as possible to the N-E bond.

Post some images of the various bits of your installation for a better response.

Good enough for officers in the Royal Navy.

3BW Dress - General Duty Rig White - Officers

Good enough for me (no that's not me).

Actually, despite coming from the official RN Dress Manual he looks decidedly off

We have a similar issue with a French drain around our home. It consists of a trench with 1/2 a 6" concrete pipe in the bottom, filled with gravel and topped of with river rocks.

Our weed solution won't work for all, but we have pet geese who happily pick off every last fresh shoot that comes through. They don't get let out every day and need to be fenced off from the veggie garden. Organic, ornamental, good guard animals and they lay delicious eggs too. Win, win, win

Beat me to it John ^^^

Pretty well every aviation authority has issued various AWDs on A330 bogie beams after a number of failures. Prime suspect.

Google "a330 bogie beam failure" for a comprehensive list of incidents and AWDs.

I think it's very possible that something malfunctioned in the landing gear, perhaps the right main gear on landing causing the plane to veer off. Otherwise, how does one explain the deep gouges in the runway?

PPrune are suggesting a right hand main gear bogie-beam failure, similar to an incident in Munich a few years back.