Crossy

+1 on thaiartisanfoods.com although we get our sausage casings (hog) from Makro.

Yes, it's real https://www.flightradar24.com/data/aircraft/sp-smc#2bdb26a9

Definitely worth checking again for leaks. Is the tank full / refilling ok? Your regular re-start could also be a leaky check-valve on the inlet side, you can sometimes hear them gurgling when the pump is off. Your overheating could also be a bad capacitor, they're cheap and easy to replace so swapping it out wouldn't hurt.

Argh!!! ^^^ Our wiring is all in the plastic boxes except for behind outlets and switches where the regular metal back-boxes are used. In the dark (no UV) they will last forever and no sharp edges to injure your wires (and no possibility of a short if it should get hurt)

Yeah ^^^. Hob/cooktop on it's own circuit, give the oven it's own circuit too if it's built-in otherwise it can go on a regular outlet, at least two other circuits for outlets plus one or two outlets that are not on RCD/RCBO for your fridge and freezer. All outlet circuits in 2.5mm2 on 20A breakers, no UK style rings please, radials only.

Brits of a certain age will understand

Mobiles are zero duty plus 7% VAT on the CIF value. The killer is going to be the potential requirement for an import licence for radio kit.

Converting to dual-bus isn't difficult but some action with a hacksaw is needed ???? Actually plastic isn't illegal in the UK but the box must be "fire resistant" which the manufacturers are interpreting as "metal". In reality I (and many others) still prefer plastic, less hazard if something comes loose and flaps around inside. For your incomer, what size meter do you have? On a 15/45 a 63A incomer is common but in the past you could get away with pretty much anything. I believe @BritManToo has at least one Nano box, perhaps he could comment on the quality.

If you order one and decide the quality is off you can return it easily ("Change of Mind" is acceptable).

Yeah, whilst the inverter is unlikely to actually be able to trip an MCB it will protect itself electronically (hopefully), I'd replace that front MCB with a 20A/30mA RCBO.

Friday (today) is Royal Ploughing Ceremony, not a holiday for most ???? Sunday is Visakha Bucha hence the alcohol ban, it would be a holiday so a day off in lieu on Monday ????

No, the unit you have is "plug-in" which limits you to Schneider/Square-D parts although a couple of other manufacturers also do similar units which fit. The big plus for amny is that they are a piece of cake to wire up. DIN units have a "universal" mounting rail which can accept all kinds of useful accessories, they are however a bit more complex to wire up.

It may even be cheaper to go over to the states and collect the beast. The airport staff don't bother with trivial things like phones provided they are "used" (so leave to box at home). Also, be sure it will actually work on the GSM/3G/4G/5G bands in use here.

@Pouatchee what does your lease actually say?? Was it even renewed?

Yeah, the ubiquitous Safe-T-Cut, I think they're a bit more than 2 Grand now ????

I would be wary of actually grounding the inverter output neutral unless the manufacturer says it's OK. Waving random earths around transformerless inverters can be hazardous to their health. Time to talk to Support, you may be lucky. To ground the N or not is the subject of many debates on inverters/gensets. Generally for low-power stuff people tend not to bother despite it being against the regs in many locations. If you ground nothing other than the metalwork you have an IT system which is actually "2 faults to danger", adding an RCD/RCBO to your second box would detect the second fault (the inverter may even detect the first fault). This is what I would do and is how we are set up.

It turns out the word should be "celebrate"

The whole point of using TNC-S is to provide a metallic (low resitance) path from your earthed metalwork back to the star-point of the transformer. This means that any L-E fault will create enough current to operate the circuit protection (MCB). In the past the system actually provided a separate ground connection back to the star point as TNS. Without that metallic connection you are reliant on the resistance via your rod which could be several hundred ohms. Hence the need for a protective device that operates at a much lower current (your RCD/RCBO). Having lots of N earthing points (MEN) reduces the risk imposed by a broken neutral. Detailed discussion, diagrams etc. in the Wiki here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Earthing_system

You should be able to get an RCBO to replace the main breaker. Check the size because that CU looks a bit small top-bottom. OR Replace individual MCBs with single width RCBOs so you can protect only the "risky" circuits and not lose everything if there's a problem. Obviously both solutions would need the plug-in type unit rather than DIN.

If it's buried nobody will ever know although I personally wouldn't put the VAF in there, singles would be fine. If you do go with VAF in the trunking/conduit de-rate to 17A (in reality you are never likely to get near that on an outlet circuit). Our wiring is in chased conduit, of course it was done during construction so the mess wasn't an issue. 24,000 BTU A/C will use about 2.4kW at full chat - 11A - No worries whatever on 2.5 unless the run as very long ???? The biggest water heater you could put on 2.5 would be 4.5kW - 20A or so - Might be too small if you are up-north or like DIY skin removal.

That small square trunking stuff looks like a good idea, singles in there and you're good to go. Unless the load is large and constant I'd not worry about 2.5mm2 singles overheating. There's nothing to stop you using a 1.5mm2 earth conductor to gain a little more space.