Crossy

10mA are available, but then you are into the realms of "tripping when you don't want it to". In reality to 30,30,30 rule (30V, 30mA, 30ms) is arbitrary anyway and is non-lethal to 95% of healthy adults, the elderly, very young or infirm are much more suseptable to death by shock. By far the best defence is the prevent the possibility of shock by good grounding, MEN implementation and proper design, the RCD/RCBO should be your second line of defence.

I agree. But if you have nothing now and are on a limited buget ...

2M at 240V is about 120uA so any 1/4W resistor would do the trick. Since this is intended to work on the mains I suggest using 4 x 220k resistors in series, most resistors are intended to work at these voltages, but one can never be too careful. Lazada is your friend here, if you need 100! I would visit your local TV fixing man and ask if he has. They are tiny money! But there's no reason why you couldn't use a capacitor in the same place is the resistor. Make sure it's a mains rated one. You might want to post a sketch of what you intend doing so we can tell if it will actually work!

This ^^^. Absolutely! Exporting of the TNC-S "earth" has become a hot topic in the UK, not because of pools (few have them) but the similar issue relating to EV charge points. It is essential that we avoid letting someone get between the TNC-S earth and true earth, there could be a significant potential between them. Galvanic corrosion is not the same as rusting. It's a massive problem with DC powered railways, stray current from the traction return going via the structural steel can literally cause it to dissolve away leading to the inevitable. The rails which provide the return path for traction power are not actually "earthed" they are isolated to prevent stray current. Anyway, we are way off topic here.

Yeah, it blew up a row of cottages in the UK a few years back when the neutral current returned via the gas pipe! The idea of all those earth points on the neutral is to keep the touch potential down to safe (ish) levels, it doesn't always work.

An off-topic attempt to de-rail the thread has been deleted.

Note my edit ????

ATK kits are available all over, even 7-eleven have them (have to ask). Any pharmacy should have them, from about 60 Baht a pop. Those would be self-test of course. EDIT If you need an "official" result then your local hospital is first port of call. If you have the mor-promt app installed click on the "station near me" for locations.

Yes, that's normal in 3-phase except under very particular circumstances. Switching the 3-phase neutral is pretty rare and it needs a special 4-pole breaker which closes the neutral first and opens it last when operated. A broken or open circuit neutral can be very (very) bad news in a 3-phase system. In single-phase the power just goes off, in 3-phase you could end up with up to 380V phase-neutral which your 220V appliances really won't like.

Great news that they are doing Pfizer walk-ins. I get automagic SMS notifications when the next jab is available so can use entrance 2, no paperwork needed other than the vaccine consent form which seems to be needed every time. Follow everyone else and show the QR to the Dr's assistant at the jab-desk. All very well organised and easy-peasy ????

But it must be made with fresh gypsies Now Manchester Tart is a fond memory from school dinners ????

Important Note :- The Thai implementation of MEN takes the incoming neutral to the ground bar first, then another link of the same size goes to the neutral bar (or the N side of the incoming breaker for single phase). I don't have a 3-phase drawing, but this is how it's done for single-phase (PEA drawing, my translations). In reality it doesn't actually matter for a 3-phase installation, incoming neutral to either the N or E bar is safe. BUT What IS a problem is that if the incoming N is on the left and our OP is measuring 7A in the MEN link! That means 7A is going down the rod. Why?? An open incoming neutral is the likely reason!! (a phase-neutral swap would be a lot more spectacular, ask me how I know ???? ) If the incoming N is on the right (where I would expect it to be for Thai MEN) then the 7A in the MEN link is just the normal off-balance neutral current and nothing to worry about.

Nah, Jessica Rabbit!!

And yet, sooooo many tourists seem to like being called that by their rentals

I'm 63, on a marriage extension. If you are retired immigration would rather you did retirement as it's less paperwork for them.

Oops!

That's why Babe, Honey, Sweetie (but not dahkling) should be in the vocabulary.

Went like a rabbit - all the Asian ones ????

Ah!!

Are you absolutely certain!!! Because if that is correct you have a very big problem!! Do nothing more, get your sparks in ASAP! Do NOT disconnect anything. Serious injury could result! If you can find the connection to the other rod then by all means check the current there and check if the l,ink current goes away with the mains off. What's the fat black wire at the top of the ground bar?

Can you show where the incoming neutral (from the meter) first lands? EDIT Hopefully the incoming N goes first to the ground bar (yes, that is correct for a Thai MEN implementation). If it is like that then the 7A in the link cable is just the normal out of balance neutral current, you can verify by checking on the incoming neutral too (should be the same). If it's not like that then Houston, we have a problem! EDIT2 SMALL ground currents (actually diverted neutral currents) are normal in a TNC-S system with local rods and are nothing to worry about. We need to know what's flowing in that other rod.

"Alternative Energy" is the best place for battery info, moving there. But 18650s on the online selling platforms are an absolute nightmare, more carp than good stuff!

It might be acting as a "ground good" indicator.

Yeah, I can't make the video work ???? Photos are always a good bet ????

https://www.compositesworld.com/articles/core-for-composites-winds-of-change