Crossy

“Your mother has been with us for 20 years,” said John. “Isn’t it time she got a place of her own?” “My mother?” replied Helen. “I thought she was your mother.”

Like many things safety related (not just 'lectrical) it's not an issue, until it is. Many whizz around on motorcycles with no lid for years and years, then one day, they come off... Simlarly, there are loads of Class 1 devices installed in Thailand with no ground. They all work just fine. Until a child dies! (water cooler and ATM accidents spring to mind) Multiple rods will work fine, until the day that there's a close ground-strike leading to a significant potential between the rods. This may (or may not) exceed the limits of the appliance insulation leading to pain.

The kludge ground for your lappie to stop the tingle is the best way to do it if your home has no grounding at all. However I would NOT do that if you already have a ground (for the reasons detailed in other posts). Whether you have a ground or not adding earth-leakage protection (e.g. a Safe-T-Cut) is a valuable addition if you don't already have one. Most landlords would be happy to let you do this, they might even help with the cost. Modern equipment that requires a ground falls in to two categories:- Those that need a safety ground (e.g. your toaster, kettle etc.) Mostly metal cased white goods. And those that need a functional ground (mostly PCs). Those in group 1 MUST be grounded to be safe. No choice. Those in group 2 need a ground to meet their EM emissions spec. most of them also have mains filters in order to meet that spec. It's these filters that provide the leakage which gives the tingle. In itself it's not hazardous but it's annoying and could constitute a hazard by causing you to jump resulting in injury. If you have a number of devices that need a ground it's best to use a single rod for all of them, reasoning also in earlier posts.

It's worth noting for our OP that your system is actually 2 x 5kW inverters running together ????

I think the OP is on behalf of Rebecca who lost the purse at that PTT station. The CCTV might still be useful if it can spot where she dropped it and who picked it up.

I don't see an issue with you regenerating the QR code provided it has the same data. Have you tried enhancing the contrast of your photo.

@Thaifish has a 10kW system which I think is on single-phase, not sure of his meter size. He is also getting an export meter "soon". If you are going for the less-than-official route without an export meter (and maybe spinning a conventional meter backwards) there's nothing really stopping you having 2 x 5kW inverters (we have a 6.5 and 5kW), your 15/45 is good for around 11kW. It really depends upon what your aim is and what your daytime power consumption is. As has been suggested, over-panelling a 5kW inverter will extend your daytime production hours, of course it will limit the peak to the inverter output. I would certainly get inverter(s) which have the no-export/export limit function.

Even tiny amounts of leakage can significantly reduce milk yield, even to the point of stopping some cows altogether. There was a race horse that dropped dead whilst being led, turned out to be a bad underground HV joint. Other horses have been spooked by standing on both rails at a level-crossing. The track-circuit voltage is small but enough.

Yeah, I would use a small amount of silicone lube. If they are making good contact I'd leave alone other than that.

I'd use some of the aerosol PU foam, readily available and easy to use.

Yup, thought of that one too (view password) as my PW does contain special characters.

I did of course, and despite me knowing the password it still didn't let me in (incorrect password). Trust me, I did everything. Nothing lost as I had a system backup from a short time before and my documents are in cloud storage. And of course the "incorrect password" works just fine on the restored system.

Which Windoze version? I had something very similar happen (it lost my PIN) which actually meant I had to do a re-install, even a refresh didn't fix it ????

Definitely sounds like the pump has gone leaky ???? You could try swapping L-N at the pump.

Which breaker is opening (over current or earth leakage)? If not sure post a photo of the T cut after it has tripped. Any damp/wildlife got in to the pump or local wiring?

Yeah, Aus/NZ prohibit multiple rods in domestic installs.

You may have missed this from the OP.

Over the years I've bought several Android boxes from China, both AliExpress and Lazada. None have had an issue with Thai customs and just arrived at home. Do avoid using the courier options (FedEx etc.) for delivery.

OK, firstly I'd check that the 63A breaker really is breaking the supply to the house, it does seem odd that someone would go 100A meter and incomer then slug it with a 63A in the middle. For your new box:- Since you are retaining the existing over-current protection you just need an RCD rather than an RCBO (should be slightly cheaper), on the incoming supply it should be 100A 2P. For your over/under, I wouldn't trust the "80A" unit at over 40A (I've seen inside them), better to use a separate sensor unit and external contactor. Note that you will still need a surge supressor (the under/over is way too slow).