Crossy

Prices are rapidly approaching parity with non-inverter types, as is the cost of repair and the works are significantly more robust than in the past. Ask me 5 years ago and I would think twice about an inverter, now I would only consider an inverter. The manufacturers really love making inverter A/C units:- Once the development costs are recovered the electronics is cheap. The electronics allows them to use much cheaper motors (they can be designed right to the line as the smart bit protects the motor). They do actually save energy so they have a built in selling point for the masses. So, they have a product that's less costly for them to make that they can (could) sell at a premium, or at least the same price as a conventional unit that costs more to make and the public actually wants the new product. One of those rare occasions where everybody wins, including the environment!

No, but AliExpress has a decent escrow system that doesn't release the funds until you (not the courier) confirm delivery. It does have a time-out so if something hasn't turned up you need to either start a dispute or extend the time or it will automagically release the funds (that's how it worked in the past, it might have changed).

I have some ancient Tesco electronic scales, but they only show to the nearest gram. So I use the "don't have accurate scales" method from here https://www.localfoodheroes.com/dry-cured-bacon-tutorial/

The whole point of an inverter unit is that the compressor doesn't cycle on/off. It dynamically adjusts its output as required by the needed cooling, very rarely actually switching off (most inverter units have a minimum cooling level at which they do power off the compressor). Also inverters are "soft starting" so there's no large switch on surge, this is nice if you have solar or a genset.

Loads of sellers are nil stock, if they have stock it's $$$. Covid being blamed of course.

And more panels to charge them, IF you can get them at present ????

At least it didn't destroy all the miners like the last one did. Overloaded power supply of course, hookey grid connection, maybe.

We recently replaced the 2012 vintage x 18,000 BTU conventional unit in our bedroom with a 12,000 BTU inverter. Of course it's a smaller unit, but since it's producing the same cooling the numbers should be comparable. We keep a detailed log of consumption (an entry every 60 seconds) because I'm a sad individual. Crunching the night time figures does reveal a noticeable reduction, and because there are no start-up spikes our solar inverters should be rather happier too ????

Condensing water out of the air certainly gives up energy which must then be pumped away. Just how much that would reduce the efficiency would be interesting to calculate. Task A. Measure how much water your A/C condenses in a 24 hour period ????

I'm a bit confused by this statement, particularly because it's the compressor which has the "inverter" bit controlling its speed.

We all "know" that an inverter A/C can save on A/C energy consumption. Here's a paper on a reasonably well controlled experiment to demonstate that yes, you could save 49% on your aircon energy! I know it's based in KSA but it's actually the most controlled / realistic demonstration I've found to date. Almogbel2020_Article_ComparisonOfEnergyConsumptionB.pdf

Yeah, it's always on the PC for me. But I hate the App.

It seems to go in spurts, months with no problem then every single time!! Most annoying!

Sometimes you just can't win ????

Task A. is to ensure your inverters are actually able to run in parallel. Grid-tie will naturally parallel but off-grid or off-grid hybrids need to know about each other. If they are off-grid hybrids they will have a grid input, grid goes there. Inverter output goes to the house breaker box. The inverter instructions should show you how to add a bypass switch. It's usual for all the inverters to share a battery pack (or packs in parallel). Why not start a thread and post what you intend doing there?

Yeah, that's what I was thinking too, of course he would need the correct outlet for it to be safe. Potential for a whole new can of worms opening up here ????

I've fixed the test requirement in the OP. Looks interesting, but like others note forcing a test to enter when we're all triple jabbed is a non-starter.

Photo of the plug you bought please! In your lead the green/yellow will be ground, the other two red is likely live and blue neutral.

It's not just bikes and it's not just tail lights. This morning at about 6.20 (just getting light) I nearly collected a chap whizzing along on an e-scooter. Dark clothing, no lights, I came within an ace of pulling out on him to turn right, luckily the car behind him lit him up enough that I saw him in time. He zoomed past me without even a glance!

Thailand is 3-phase 4-wire at the distribution level. Your single-phase house supply is between one phase and neutral. Larger homes hook on to all three phases and the neutral, it works like 3 single-phase supplies. If you look at the pole outside it will have 4 wires, the top one (usually bare) is the neutral the lower three are the phases. Your meter will come from the neutral and one phase.

Check your local Global House they have Sunergy 330W poly panels at 3,590 Baht https://www.globalhouse.co.th/product/detail/2012110639770 or Sunergy 410W mono panels at 4,990Baht https://www.globalhouse.co.th/product/detail/2012110639336 many locations are OOS but you may score. I also saw that Mega Home have 500W mono panels (they are massive, just looking at them gave me a hernia!) at 7,500 Baht a pop, they had a decent size stack in the Rangsit store, no I didn't buy any.

Just a quick update on the re-configured system after a week or so of testing. Adding the PowMr SCC has indeed resulted in the batteries now charging to a more satisfactory 43.8V which equates to around 96% full. I'll go with that. Our "300Ah" pack, which we know is more like 220Ah is storing between 10 and 11kWh for use each night. I can go with that too. I'm currently relying on the inverter "Total Energy Discharged" facility which is pretty carp and only displays to the nearest kWh. A proper coulomb-counter is in the works which uses the BMS's serial outputs to monitor current and voltage (this was spurred on by me finding an Arduino library that talks to the Daly smart BMSs). Watch this space, I'm waiting for a couple of bits from Lazada (coming from China). I've also had to update the software in my Solar Data logger https://aseannow.com/topic/1161970-an-internet-enabled-solar-power-monitoring-system-another-project-from-crossy-labs/ Many things have changed in 4 years and there's now a decent ThingSpeak library which simplifies writing data to the channels and a much better ESP8266 "AT Command" library which makes actually getting the Arduino Mega to connect to the internet a zillion times easier (and it has better error handling too). I had planned on porting the whole thing over to a NodeMCU based device, but the new libraries probably mean that is on hold, at least for now, as I can make the Arduino Mega based unit do everything I had planned without taxing my mind too much (building a web-interface around the AT commands looked daunting). All good fun and keeping the old grey-cells lubricated, or is that a copious supply of Beer Chang doing the lubricating? Madam still suspects thinks knows I'm mad (I don't really look like a typical mad-scientist), but she's most happy with the reduced energy bills (more $$$ for her to spend on plants). Unfortunately the increased battery pack is on temporary hold due to the entertainment system in the car being declared as "Beyond Economical Repair" so shopping at JVC-Kenwood is required (an equivalent unit is a scary 32,000 Baht ???? )

Using Google works well. Start your search with :- site:aseannow.com <put your search string here> results are generally far better than the somewhat lame forum search.