carlyai

Thanks. I'll have to check more but the bike has 48V Samsung batteries so the switch may be underrated. I have 2 of the same ebikes and both now have their taillights on.

I'm in the process of checking out the switch but there are a lot of wires, fairly stressed, in a small area, so I'm going to have to discharge the battery first. The battery and taillight are 1 unit that slides into the bike frame. The taillight is on all the time regardless of state of battery press button. The digital display seems to have power all the time (switching the display on/off still has backlight and functionality). Maybe the press button switch is underrated, not being 48v rated?

Thanks. Trouble is WD40 sprayed terminals attract more dust later on. A million years ago when I used to work with telecom relays, the report was that spraying relay springsets with WD40 caused more intermittant problems later on.

It's an on/off push button switch. It's used to power on and off the E bike. The ebike seems to be on all the time. I suspect the switch, but it does mechanically switch on/off with a small 'click' and the on position is down at it's bottom travel end and off at the switche's near top travel. The switch has 4 terminals. The green switch light is on all the time. I'd like to buy another switch and test it.

The specs. for the Feyree I ordered said solar compatable. Will have to wait and see when the charger arrives.

I think the best way is to go to a computer area (it used to be TukCom) and find a Thai guy that sounds like he could fix your problem. Pick up your computer and take it to him to fix.

I think used around 75% but just a guess as didn't measure anything accurately. Driving to Pattaya towards the end of the month so will check then.

Who knows what's going to happen when you discharge the battery to that extent.

Just did a return trip from Kuchinari to Kong Kaen airport and drive around both areas. Trip about 350km. Got back home and still had 22% battery. That was in eco mode with the Sealion 7. Just running car in for 2000km, but eco mode is fine for me. The main thing that was lacking in our CRV was power. Power to get out of trouble. The Sealion 7 has lots of power, even in eco mode. Still got Standard and Performance modes to go.

I can imagine it. " It's th e. gun ger you know." I sometimes think that some posters on AN really go tooo far about insulting the Thai establishment. I'm sure there is a little notebook somewhere recording the derogatory remarks. Thailand is a great place and all the systems work beautifully. 🙂

That ABB box has good specifications but expensive for don't know what...just the brand name?

Yes that's what I was thinking would happen unless there is a anchor function.

Thanks. Schematic drawing coming. Just bought me a copy of Visio and new monitor. When you use Visio, do you place the boxes first or last after the cct. elements, or, doesn't it matter.

Ohhh that's no good, but bit late for me as I just ordered one. What do you use now? It's not really a charger but a box (expensive box) to connect to the car internal charger, as you probably know. Seems it must have a few interlocks and Pulse Width Modulation generator.

For solar panels and inverters installation I think I will use the garage. From the house to the garage is about 18m. As a reference, the pool is 14m long. The 3 phase supply comes into an outside (CU1) via that grey painted conduit, then 3 phases go underground to the house (CU2) and 1 phase goes underground to the garage (CU3). From somewhere around CU1 (leaving plenty of slack) 3 phase supply cables will be extended to and from the garage. That would be 8 25m2 cables if I run 4 wire mains or 6 if 3 wire mains. (I think I need 4 wire going but maybe 3 wire coming back....hope someone can advise). The power cables will run along the outside of the pool fence attached with unistrut clamps to the fence. The individual cables with be enclosed in conduit. On the garage side of the pool fence the cables will initially terminate on the white wall then go to a 1/3 phase EV Charger. Initially I will use the single underground phase attached to the EV charger. I need suggestions on how to do the next wiring setup: I didn't really want to terminate the cable there but would have preferred it to go all the way to where the solar inverter/s will be further down the garage wall. Do I terminate the incoming 4 cables in a 60A breaker (CU4), then feed to where the solar setup will be. Also feeds thru a 40A 3 phase breaker to the EV Charger? The cables will go along the garage wall to the end wall where they will meet the inverters etc on the opposite wall of the garage or in the next room. One place I could mount a the solar hardware and batteries. Would share the room with the EV and pool filtration equipment. Or, I could go next door (still part of the garage) and dismantle my store room and install all the solar equipment in the store room. Gets really hot in the garage so if needed I could install an air-conditioning as is a small room. Maybe I should give up the solar on/in the garage and put the inverter/s in the house and PV panels on the Monier tiled roof as 3 phase already in the house. I would like feedback on anything, especially 4 wire to the garage and 4 wire back and how to terminate the cables into the garage to connect to an EV charger, but extend them on to the solar equipment. I see overseas now they have 4 wire 3 phase cables in a flat cable configuration. Any comment on running the CU power cables? All comments welcomed. 🙂