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Posts posted by 007 RED
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My 4 panel system has now been running on our car port roof for just over a month and has managed to produce 157kWh during November, despite rain and clouds most days during the month. Nice to see the disc going clockwise occasionally, so I'm happy with this and looking forward to seeing a reduction in our bill on or about the 16th.
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I think the so called 'Doctor' needs to do a bit of investigation before making such a comment. If he did he would have discovered that so called 'party balloons' are not filled with nitrous oxide, they are filled with helium which is lighter than air and hence the balloon raises into the air. Nitrous oxide is heavier than air and the balloon will sink to the floor.
Nitrous oxide, sometimes called Entonox or laughing gas, is used within the medical field as a form of pain relief. It is frequently given to women during labour in hospital and by emergency ambulance personnel when dealing with serious medical emergencies/trauma.
The gas is normally self administered, that is to say the mouth piece is given to the patient and they hold it and inhaled from it. After a few intakes of breath the gas will make them feel woozy (light headed) at which point they will normally stop inhaling the gas by themselves. The effects of the gas quickly wear off once the patient stops inhaling it.
As far as I'm aware nitrous oxide is not available to the public and I've never seen it used in hospitals other than under the supervision of an anaesthetist.
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13 hours ago, Gweiloman said:Thanks for the very interesting and inspiring post. I’m an enthusiastic DIY’er and willing to tackle most jobs but must admit to being apprehensive about electrics due to potentially severe and possibly even fatal consequences. There is also the small issue that I live in a double storey house whereby my lowest roof line is about 8 metres up. I do have a carport roof that’s only about 3 metres high so that might be a possibility….
For a similar 2 kwP system from a commercial installer, the price would be around Thb 100k. How can they justify such a huge difference in price? Sure, they have to pay labour, business operating expenses and profits but still…
Finally, I have a few questions if you don’t mind. Is it difficult to source for all the required materials such as cables, connectors, circuit breakers etc? Did you custom make the mountings for the solar panels or just simply purchase ready made ones? Apart from the panels and an inverter, I would also need a CT and an export controller? (although if I’m not mistaken, Crosby mentioned that some inverters come with a built in export disable switch/function). And finally, connecting to the grid. Is this a simple matter of literally plugging in a plug to an existing socket or having to tinker with the main fuse board?
Cheers
I'm glad that my post was of interest to you and that it generated some questions.
For me, at 75, the project was a great learning experience which helped with the boredom during 'self inflicted hibernation' caused by Covid.
Not wishing to highjack the original post, and as has been suggested by Crossy, I will create a new topic shortly providing detail of my experience in creating a small solar panel system on my carport roof so please bear with me.
Regards,
007 RED
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17 hours ago, Gweiloman said:I have been toying with the idea of installing a 3KwP system, costs around Thb150,000. (Can’t go down the DIY route due to lack of skill and expertise on matters electric). My usage throughout the day is fairly constant as I don’t need to turn on the ac much here in CM. I use about 650-750 units a month on average, so about Thb 3,000 per month. I don’t think I will be going down the MySolarHome route either as it seems too troublesome, what with the enormous amount of work and hassle involved.
If I’m unable to benefit from net metering, then my ROI is not very attractive. I was wondering if it’s possible to have one of those standard systems installed that could turn my meter backwards when I’m overproducing but at the same time, having the possibility to either shut down the system or to disable exporting when the meter reader comes around?
Any comments and advice much appreciated.
I’ve just installed a small solar system on my carport roof comprising 4 x 415w panels plus a Sofar 2kWh grid tied inverter. Approximate total cost 26K (THB).
My wife and I are not big electrical users. Our average monthly usage (over the past year) has been about 650 units/month, so my intention from the onset has been to create a system that will reduce our bills by 50%. I appreciate that ROI over the short term (a couple of years) will not be that great, but I was taking a longer term view where reliability was paramount due to our age.
My electrical knowledge/experience was somewhat ‘rusty’ (Ohms Law at polytechnic 50 years
ago) but following the basic common sense safety rules (switch things off and testing before ‘playing’) enabled me to DIY the installation with some great support from members of this forum. The biggest concern on my part was getting up onto the sloping carport roof, which is 4 meters above ground level at its lowest point, to install the panels.
From the initial research that I did, I think that you will find that the ‘cheaper’ grid tied inverters do not have any capability of controlling the export of any surplus power generated by the system, other than turning the inverter off completely. Some of the more expensive grid tied inverters have a facility to allow a Current Transformer (CT) to be connected to the positive line from the power pole to the house. The CT is then used by the inverter to measure the flow of current which allows the inverter to determine if, and how much, power is being exported.
The Sofar grid tied inverter allows you to set the maximum amount of power you want the system to export e.g. Zero or 100%. What the inverter cannot do is determine what days of the month it will allow the system to export, or not export. This has to be done by either physically, or electronically, breaking the connection between the inverter and the CT. Strange as it may seem, with the CT connected to the inverter (and the inverter set to zero export) there is no export, however, with no connection between the CT and inverter the inverter allows the system to export any surplus power to the grid.
My initial Export Controller is a simple on/off (light) switch located in a water/insect proof housing between the CT and inverter. I have the calendar on my mobile set to remind me to physically switch the Export Controller off a day before that meter reader is normally due to come. I leave the Export Controller off for 3 consecutive days just in case he comes on a different day. I’m currently installing Crossy’s electronic Export Controller which will allow the system to be controlled automatically or via my computer/mobile. A wonderful little self-made addition.
I found that installing my small grid tied system was not that difficult and only required some very basic knowledge, skills and tools. If I can do it at 75, I sure that most younger folk can make a better job of it than me.
Go for it and good luck.
PS... My little system is currently churning out about 5kWh per day despite the recent heavy rain and clouds.
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Not sure that standing on the panels is a good idea, especially if you have desert sand engrained in the soles of your boots ????
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7 hours ago, Crossy said:Ouch! Looks like we got in just in time there.
You were definitely lucky. I have just returned from a trip to my local Global House and can confirm that the price of your panels has 'sky rocketed' with affect from today... see photo below with price date in bottom left by QR code.
Not sure, but the sudden price rise may have something to do with a recent report that the US government is investigating 3 or 4 solar cell manufactures in Thailand. Apparently these companies get 'special' low import duty rates when exporting to the US. But the US suspects that these companies are owned by Chinese and they are getting panels from China and re-branding them as made in Thailand in order to circumvent the very high import duty placed upon made in China panels.
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He originally claimed that he put the plastic bags over the alleged offenders head so that he could not see/recognise the other officers. If that was the case, he would have known that in doing so there was a reasonable risk that the person would suffocate. He later changed his plea to defending the morals of young people. (BS.... 1st class award). This is murder! plain and simple.
If I was in his shoes, I would have thought his best defence would have been to claim that it was known that the alleged offender was Covid positive and that during questioning he started spitting at everyone in the room (which would have been difficult to see on the video). He could then claim that despite warnings to stop spitting the alleged offender continued to spit at the officers, so he grabbed a plastic bag that was on a nearby table and put it over the alleged offender's head to stop him from possibly infecting the other officers with Covid The alleged offender refused to co-operate and continued to struggle. Unfortunately, he quickly lost consciousness we removed the plastic bag quickly and attempted to revive him. The alleged offender was transported to hospital and certified dead the next day. This would be more like manslaughter e.g. spur of the moment action.
As it happens, he appears that he has the 'ear' of people at the top of the 'food chain', so it is highly unlikely that he will be charged with murder.
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10 minutes ago, khunjeff said:
Not necessarily. I don't know the details of Thai legal definitions, but here's some background about the definition of murder under common law - I think the current case meets the conditions of 3/4 of the examples given:
Background: Common Law Murder
At common law, murder was defined as killing another human being with malice aforethought. Malice aforethought is a legal term of art, that encompasses the following types of murder:
- "Intent-to-kill murder"
- "Grievous-bodily-harm murder" - Killing someone in an attack intended to cause them grievous bodily harm. For example, if the defendant fatally stabbed the victim, even if the defendant only intended to wound the victim, the defendant would still be liable for murder.
- "Felony-murder" - Killing someone while in the process of committing a felony. Note that at common law, there were few felonies, and all carried the death penalty. For example, at common law, robbery was a felony. So if a robber accidentally killed someone during a robbery, the robber could be executed.
- "Depraved heart murder" - Killing someone in a way that demonstrates a callous disregard for the value of human life. For example, if a person intentionally fires a gun into a crowded room, and someone dies, the person could be convicted of depraved heart murder.
"Murder | Wex | US Law | LII / Legal Information Institute" https://www.law.cornell.edu/wex/murder
This is Thailand... not the USA. Here there is one law for the "commoners" and another for the HiSo's.
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15 hours ago, PATTTAYA said:
His Thai Ex gf accuses him of trespassing and theft of money.
Although she dont have any witness, evidence or CCTV.
I am sorry i dont know if its state or private prosecution.
OP…. Although you have not indicated how much money was reportedly stolen, I personally don’t think that your friend has anything to worry about unless his ex GF claims that he stole tens or hundreds of thousands of THB. Regarding the alleged matter of trespass, again without evidence/witnesses etc. it is unlikely anything will come of her allegations.
However, if his ex GF claims that he stole only a few THB, or that your friend entered her property whilst she was not there, and she has a family member with high connections, then that may be a different story.
FYI… Both theft and trespass are deemed to be criminal matters in Thailand.
If your friend’s ex GF has filed a complaint with the local police (assuming that she claims that a large sum of money has gone missing) or that your friend entered her property without her permission, she would have to produce reasonable evidence that the money was originally in her possession, or that he did enter her property without her permission, for the police investigating officer to consider submitting a file to the Local Prosecution Office (LPO) for consideration.
The LPO would then consider if the case should proceed or not, based upon the evidence submitted by the police. If the LPO decide that it should proceed, they would then apply to the local criminal court of the ‘first instance’ for an arrest warrant to be issued.
Many people assume that it is the police that issue an arrest warrant. This assumption is incorrect. An arrest warrant is issued by magistrate/judge, who in theory should look at the evidence submitted by the LPO/police and decide if a prosecution is warranted. If an arrest warrant is issued then it is the police’s responsibility to apprehend alleged offender and bring him before the Court.
In the case of an arrest warrant having been issued against a foreigner, the local police would inform the Royal Thai Police HQ in Bangkok, who would enter the information into their database, and at the same time, they would inform their colleagues in immigration. Immigration will also enter the warrant details into their computer database against the alleged offender’s immigration record.
Assuming that an arrest warrant has been issued, and your friend then subsequently attempts to return to Thailand from overseas by plane, the likelihood is that he will be denied boarding when he checks in for his flight. This is because the airlines are required to submit passenger details (biographical data from the passenger’s passport) to Thailand authorities prior to passengers boarding the flight. This is done through the Advance Passenger Information System (APIS).
When your friend’s biographical data is received in Thailand it is passed to immigration and a number of other government agencies. If any of the government agencies databases indicates anything untoward against him e.g., an arrest warrant is active, then the APIS will send a ‘do not board’ code back to the airline. The airline will not be given any reason(s) for the denial. The airline will face heavy financial penalties if they allow a person to travel after having received a do not board notification.
If he tries to enter Thailand via a land boarder the moment the immigration officer places his biometric passport onto the scanner the officer will be alerted to the fact that an arrest warrant is active against the person. The officer may decide to refuse entry (go back from where he came) or allow entry and then execute an arrest against that warrant.
FYI…. Unless it is deemed a really, really, serious offence the Thai police do not inform Interpol as a matter of course that a 'homeland' arrset warrant exists.
So how can your friend establish if he has an arrest warrant issued against him here in Thailand?
He could try to fly back, but as I’ve indicated above, if a warrant is outstanding against him he will be denied boarding by the airline which will prove costly in terms of loss of air fare due to cancellation. The airline will maintain that he is responsible for ensuring he his eligible to enter the country.
Yes as has been suggested by other members, he could go through a lawyer to find out if there is a warrant outstanding against him, but this will cost him, possibly mega bucks for a few minute work. If he wants to go down that route, do a Google search “obtaining a Thai police certificate” and this will throw up several firms that offer such a service.
Alternatively, he could request a Thai police certificate his self, details are given in the following Royal Thai Police web link: http://pcscenter.sb.police.go.th/filedownload/infomation-service-4.pdf Cost: 100THB plus some minimal postage fees.
Hope this helps.
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9 minutes ago, Crossy said:
A single string will stabilise at ISC of the panels (10A ish) so your 15A fuse wouldn't be troubled. The MCBs in my box really serve to turn off the panels so I can muck about with the surge arrestors etc. without getting zapped.
Thanks for your observation. My comment about "blowing a fuse" was more a figure of speach than practical proposition.
As l said, l will be following your 'neat model', suitably modified for a single string input with a DC MCB and surge arrestors for feed to the inverter. I'll also include an AC MCB and surge arrestors for the AC output.
I take your comment about being zapped very seriously. My father, bless him, always kept telling me when l was young, you can't see electricity, you can't smell it, but by god you can feel it. Wise words that l've always remembered.
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4 hours ago, Muhendis said:
If you only have one string of solar panels then you have nothing to combine and therefore do not need a combiner box. A simple DC protection/isolator and a surge arrestor is all you need. If you make it same as Crossy's neat box you can't go wrong.
(snipped)
Many thanks for your comments and the clip video which is very informative. I note that according to the 'presenter' he indicates "that with a single string setup there is no need for any kind of over current protection". Really? I think I would rather a fuse blows or a breaker trips that the expensive inverter 'bowing a gasket'. What is it? "Belt & Braces".
FYI..... I will be following Crossy's neat 'model', suitably modified for single string input.
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1 hour ago, Crossy said:
Here we go.
Cheap DIN rail consumer unit from MegaHome, 30A AC MCB same place.
DC MCBs, DC MOVs and AC MOVs from Lazada.
Do NOT try to save a few $$$ by using normal MCBs on the DC, conflagration may result if one opens when the panels are active.
This is for two strings (inverter has 2 MPPT inputs) so you could lose one DC MCB and a pair of DC MOVs.
Once again, many thanks for your input. I hope that you didn't get to wet taking the photo on my behalf ????.
I note that you have not used any DC fuses on the string inputs, is there a reason for not using? Also is there any 'secret' formula to determine the values of the MOVs?
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A new question from the dumbo who is considering a small DIY solar system on the roof of his carport.
From everything that I have read, and seen on various videos, it is wise to install a ‘safety’ box between the solar panels and the inverter. My understanding is that these normally contain the following components: a) DC fuse; b) DC breaker; c) DC surge arrestor. (number of each depending upon the number of strings.
FYI….. The system I’m contemplating will comprise 3 or 4 x 415W panels (Vmp = 41.7V; Imp =9.96A) which will be connected in series (single string) to a Sofar 2200W GTI (Max input voltage = 500V; max input current MPPT = 12A).
I’ve seen a number of circuit diagrams for various types of ‘safety’ or combiner boxes and some advertises online but these tend to have been multi entry string entry units.
Q…. how do I determine the correct type/size of components needed if I wanted to construct or purchase a single entry ‘safety’ box for the system mentioned above?
Once again, your informed contributions will be much appreciated.
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Many thanks for all of your advice/information regarding solar panels and GTI’s. Certainly, gave me ‘food for thought’ last night, plus the additional contribution this morning from @Muhendis.
Although I intend to stick with my original spec, that is to say generate about only enough power to reduce our monthly bill by 1/3rd (about 3 units/day), @Crossy’ suggested alternative GTI with a limiter made me consider the possibility of a more sophisticated GTI e.g. Sofar.
Looking at their product lists, the smallest Sofar GTI available is 1.6W (yes, I know its 3 times more expensive than the Suoer 1000W) but it does come with lots of 'bells and whistles like limiter and wifi monitoring etc.
The question is, if I install say 4 x 340W panels to the Sofar 1.6W, and let’s say a 25% efficiency reduction, that combination might just produce 1000W which will still meet my original spec.
So what affect will this have on the Sofar GTI if the input power is considerably less than the potential output of the unit. Will this be detrimental to the GTI, if so how?
My thought being that such a GTI could allow me to increase the number of panels and hence increase the power output at some later date if I decide it worthwhile/prudent to do so.
I appreciate that the increased cost of a 1.6W Sofar GTI over the cheaper makes will mean that the ‘payback’ time will increase considerably, but funds are not a problem. My main objective is a long term saving.
Once again, thanks for treating me gently ????
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1 hour ago, Crossy said:
Just for interest, our 6,500W of panels is generating 5,184W at the inverter output right now ????
EDIT Just peaked at 5,545W ????
OK, the initial project started as a Solar Carport on a budget, but now its become a Solar carport on a massive overdraft ????
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10 minutes ago, Crossy said:
Although I've sorted an automagic system to stop the export our meter reader invariably comes at 6AM on the 19th, until the days he doesn't!!
So I'll happily throw away some energy by not exporting all day on the earliest through to the latest days he's ever been.
20m between the CT and the controller is nothing, our CTs are 30m from the inverter, limit according to the inverter manual is 200m. Also note that that little inverter talks to the limiter using RS-485 which should be good for 500m or so ????
Again, many thanks for that information. You absolutely correct about the meter reader potentially coming on a different day than expected. What's it called? Murphy' Law!
You now have me really 'fired up' with the information regarding the distance between the GTI and the feed wires. Definitely worth considering.
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1 hour ago, BritManToo said:
It'll never happen.
My 3x 340w have never produced more than 650W even in the strongest sun.
Today in bright mid-day(ish) sun I'm getting 500W, thinking of adding another 1 or 2 panels to the string.
Safe to assume (under perfect conditions) your panels will produce AT LEAST 30% less than the advertised Watts.
Many thanks for your assurance.
I recall that I read in one of the 'Idiot's Guides to Solar Panel Systems' that power output of the solar panel given by the manufacturer is for the ideal situation and not the real world with clouds, dust, heat etc affecting the efficiency of the panel. As you said, the real world factors will reduce the power output considerably.
So with your 3 x 340W panels your GTI copes OK and doesn't get overheated?
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53 minutes ago, Crossy said:
What type of meter do you have, whizzy disc or electronic?
If it's the disc type it will happily go backwards if your production exceeds current useage, BUT it is imperative that your meter reader doesn't see it going backwards. PEA do seem to be clamping down more and more on "unofficial" net-metering.
Electronic meters don't go backwards, they may even bill you for the energy you export!
So it might be an idea to invest in GTIs that can do "no export" and then arrange to enable this facility on "meter reader" days.
Something like this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001054628033.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.5c562e0e9gsTMg
Thanks for your comments and suggested GTI.
We have a 'whizzy' disc meter and I am mindful from your previous postings of the potential problems that can arise if the meter reader spots it going backwards.
I note from our past bills that the meter reader normally comes between 9 and 11am, on the 15th or 16th of every month, so like you, I could make sure that Mrs MoneyBaht has the washing machine and the oven at full blast when he comes (maybe triggered by facial recognition on our external CCTV looking down the road).
Joking apart, the problem I would have is connecting the inhibitor supplied with the GTI that you suggested to the feed wires (from the pole in the road outside the house) to the house. The GTI will be mounted under the roof of the carport and the distance from there to the feed wires is approximately 20 meters as the crow flies. I think that the simplest solution initially will be to put a alarm reminder in our smart phone calendars and disconnect the AC output until he has gone.
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I’m seeking some information/advice from our ‘resident’ experts please.
Background: Have been monitoring this forum since @Crossy opened it with his “How about a solar carport on a budget” some 2 years ago. It has been really interesting and educational particularly during these ‘strange times’ were currently living in. Thanks, @Crossy and all the other contributors.
I have been toying for quite some time with the idea of installing a small grid tied system on my carport. We (my good lady and I… plus 3 cats) don’t use a great deal of electricity. Looking at our electricity bill printouts for the past 12 months, we use on average approximately 9 units/day. OK, I know electricity is cheap, so why bother? That’s a whole different argument for another day.
I am considering DIY project, something in the order of a 1KW system to produce about 3 units/day (a reduction of approx.. 1/3rd current usage) so as not to arouse suspicions in the local PEA office.
I’m looking at a similar system to that constructed by @BritManToo namely: a Suoer 1000W GTI plus 2 or 3 solar panels.
Admission: Electrical expertise = NIL, but more than capable DIY and following good practice/rules etc. So please treat gently????
My questions:
Q # 1. What is the difference (in lay person terms please) between Poly Full, Mono Full and Mono Half solar panels (apart from the cost), and which is the best?
Q # 2. If I use a GTI rated at 1000W and use 3 x 340W normal poly panels (potential of 1020W), I’m aware that the panels could (under perfect conditions) produce 20W more than the GTI is capable of handling and ‘clipping’ will occur. What affect will this have on the GTI?
Q # 3. If I use a GTI rated at 1000W and use 2 x 460W mono half cell panels (potential of 920W), what affect will this reduced input have on the GTI?
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In my humble opinion, from the x-ray image, the foreign object in the policeman's neck is an air gun pellet.
The officer is extremely lucky that the pellet did not penetrate/rupture either of the major blood vessels which run up either side of his neck namely, the carotid arteries and the jugular veins. Had the pellet penetrated/ruptured either one of those blood vessels he would have been in an immediate life threatening situation, as I suspect that first aid facilities on the 'ground' would have been fairly basic and unlikely to be able to control the massive internal bleed which would have resulted from such an injury.
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OP... A couple of weeks after getting my replacement PP (approximately 3 months ago) I went to the Land Transport Office and requested that my driving licence be updated with my new PP number. The process was simple. All I needed was a photo copy of my old and new PP's (data pages), new PP page showing transfer stamps and my original DL. I had original and new PP with me but was not asked for them. No additional forms to fill in. Presented these to the receptionist who issued a queue number and had a short wait to be called for photo to be taken and issue of updated DL. If I remember correctly there was a small fee for the replacement DL (receipt was issued). I was in/out in about 30 minutes.
Obviously with the current Covid situation the process may change depending upon which LT office you use.
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1 hour ago, Eff1n2ret said:
Sorry, I never took a copy of it, and it is retained by Immigration. From memory, there was an embassy embossing stamp on it, so unless you are skilled at counterfeiting such things, you might not get it past the IO.
The letter is a photocopy, including the VC's signature, done on very cheap paper. The Embassy embossed stamp is so faint that it is hardly noticeable.
I scanned my letter into a pdf and then completed the required fields using Adobe. I presented the copy which I made to the IO together with the required copies of my old passport photo page, original visa and all the previous stamps. He didn't bat an eye lid and in less than 10 minutes I was walking out of the office with my new passport dually stamped over two pages.
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This topic was the feature of one of BBC's technology programmes last November. It appears that the use of an EV's battery for home use is currently being tried/tested in the UK. At present the cost of the installation is being heavily subsidised by the company who running the trial, and if you wanted to purchase the system, it would set you back around 6,000 GBP, if I recall correctly.
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OP.... There are a number of agencies/organisations that you may need to notify of your new passport number. For example:
- As you mentioned - the Land Transport to change the PP No. on your DLs.
- Your bank(s) - for each account that you have as in most cases your account(s) will be registered with your PP No..
- Doctor/hospital - again, in most cases they will have you registered by your PP No.
- Pink Card - if you have one it was issued against your yellow book but you also had to provide a copy of your PP.
- BTS/MRT Travel cards - both cards required you to provide ID which may have been your PP No.
No doubt there are other agencies/organisations that may need to be informed and other TV members will chip in with additions.
FYI.... in most cases you will need to provide a copy of your old and new PP (photo page).
Hope this helps.
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All for 20,000 baht! Two Pakistani mules stopped with drugs worth 95 million baht at Bangkok airport
in Bangkok News
Posted · Edited by 007 RED
Typo
If I recall correctly, new x-ray scanners were installed in the baggage arrival section of Suvarnabhumi airport in 2019 to enable customs to automatically scan all arriving baggage for contraband. Apparently, many types of drugs show up as a specific colour and density which sets off an alarm. The case is then monitored via CCTV and when the owner collects it from the arrival belt they are be greeted by a welcoming party.