unheard

While that page does provide some useful advice, it doesn't sound too competent in the end by stating: "Continue to shock your pool once a week".

Thank you!

Where can it be purchased? Couldn't find much on Lazada...

Or even cheaper fiberglass rolls will work wonders in preventing attic heat transmission to ceilings.

Hey it's all good! No apologies necessary.

That wasn't me. Looks like you've confused me with another poster.

Well, that's why I have an insulated metal roof. As I have previously mentioned, the steel roof sheet with a layer of 25mm of PU insulation feels barely warm to touch after many hours spent sitting under direct sunlight. Don't have any experience with insulated concrete tiles. But it shouldn't be drastically different. Still... The difference between concrete and metal is their thermal masses. Metal is quick to heat but also quick to cool. Concrete is the direct opposite - very slow to heat up but is also slow to cool down. In addition to thermal mass, thermal inertia also plays a big role. Concrete is obviously much higher on both compared to metal, thus making it a very hot material in the roof application.

That's how PU insulated steel roofs are constructed, with this thermal break present by design. The metal roof sheets are not in contact with metal roof beams - they're separated by the insulation layer.

No, it will not adhere to foil. The foil would need to be removed.

OK I still think I mis-understood what you meant under your prior statement: "spray on foam or radiant barrier and radiant barrier wins every time". As in the cost and easiness of application? Or as in the general contribution to the "hot attic" condition? Spray on foam greatly reduces heat by convection and overall attic temperatures even without ventilation. There's also a layer of a silvery foil (assuming for the purpose of a radiant barrier) applied on top of the sprayed on foam during production of the steel metal insulated sheets. The radiant barrier technique does nothing for convective heating which leads to hot attic temps.

There are none - that's the problem. Well there are normally some present, usually in the form of a traditional Thai gable vent. But those are not effective in venting under all conditions. In comparison, many roofs in the west are of the ventilated attic type - with intake and exhausts (e.g. vented ridges). The intake must be sized to flow at least as much air as the exhaust does in order to be efficient.

Don't know about that. Have you ever tried to touch the radiant barrier layer under concrete tiles at the end of a hot, sunny day? Isn't it scorching hot? (an honest question btw). The radiant barrier will prevent re-radiated heat from heating up the ceiling, but it will surely heat up the attic air by convection. The PU insulated metal (especially with thicker foams) feels barely warm to touch in the open Sun.

I don't know what their belief is. Slotted eves placed on every roof corner is a common practice over here. They're being installed as fresh air intakes. Their throughput is more than enough for any roof designed without exhaust openings.

double

There are some older threads with some reports on spray-on insulation. You might try to locate them via common search engines since the forum search is not that great in comparison. That said, I remember seeing only a few posters mentioning the practice. It's uncommon for Thailand. btw, if properly applied with a right mixture of ingredients it could be a really good option for the already installed tile roof. Besides adding great insulating properties, PU insulation will also lock the tiles in place, preventing them from moving/sliding around due to the daily expansion/contraction thermal cycle - a common cause for leaks. But then I think, the silver foil would need to be stripped off. It sounds like it's already too late for you since the roof is done.

Sure but that profile is not readily available with thick PU insulation as an option. At least that was the case last time I shopped at my local BlueScope outlet. That profile was only available with a very thin, silvery looking material as glued-on insulation.

Steel, PU-insulated roof. Simple to install, more durable than tile, less prone to leaks long term, lightweight etc, etc.. Yet tiles are so nice to look at. So it's all about priorities.

Whirly birds are not that good. They don't move significant volumes of air per unit - impossible to create a well ventilated roof without installing multiple units of them. Very bad aesthetically. But the long term leakage proofing is even bigger problem. The amount of air they "move" would depend on each unit's opening cross section. Their spinning action is just a marketing gimmick. It doesn't add any air velocity or create any additional suction. Their venting value equals to the similarly sized hole in the roof.

https://wave.co.th/product-category/ground-water-tanks/ https://dos.co.th/products?f[0]=field_categ%3A1 https://mitsubishi-kyw.co.th/Product/For-Home/Water-Pump/ConstantPressure/934.aspx?NodeID=934&ProductType=5 https://www.hitachi-homeappliances.com/th-en/products/water-pump/shallow-well-compact/wm-p250gx2.html

Take a look at the bore, or at whatever is surface visible. Most wells are pvc lined (blue pipe) but could be metal.

The best and easiest method by far is via an excavator. All other methods will require lots of effort and/or time: https://www.thespruce.com/removing-tree-stumps-without-stump-grinders-2131136

Make sure the bore is properly sealed with a concrete pad to prevent surface water contamination. A good sealing bore cap is also a good thing to have. They tend to just cover it with a plastic disk leaving visible gaps all around.

Total hardness, Chloride, dissolved solids and Coliform bacteria readings are elevated. But only Coliform bacteria contamination warns any concern. High bacteria levels could be from cross-contamination during sample collection/handling on your part. How deep is your well? Was the bore sealed/capped? How long has it been since its completion? What was your sample collection technique?

Yeah, pressure treatment makes the key difference in protecting the core material from termites. But it's still not a 100% protection. btw, even teak is not a guaranteed deterrent. It's just that termites don't like it nearly as much as other woods. There are many examples of termite damaged teak pieces in Thailand.

@stament Termites don't like pressure treated plywood. Laminated plywood cabinets look almost indistinguishable from solid wood.