Pib

From looking at/translating the comments this problem is apparently hitting everyone....started about a day ago.

Ditto screen on my Atto.

RTV would work like a charm....flexible, waterproof, etc.....its temperature range is typically from around a -60C to hundreds of degrees C. RTV is so good for many repairs. I doubt Super Glue would work well in this situation especially for long term. Here's one of many youtube videos on the subject...RTV is used. Just use your "wet" finger tip to smooth the silicon.

Don't you just love how products seem to fail just outside their warranty period. Can almost make a person think there is some hidden electronic component or firmware coding set to make the product have a fatal heart attack just outside its warranty coverage. 😜 I expect almost everyone has experienced these kind of failures....I know I sure have. Anyway, did the Duosida charger just "completely stop working" or would only work properly on a intermittent basis or did it continue to fire-up but wouldn't allow a charge or ???? And did you leave it turned on pretty much 24/7 (even when not charging for days) or turn it on only when wanting to charge? The reason I ask about 2nd question is when the BYD charger installation contractor installed my free "Zhida RFID 7KW wall charger) he said it was best from a "charger lifetime" to leave it on 24/7 (i.e., let it stay in standby mode) "if I charge at least once a week." Now I do charge at least once a week....in fact multiple times....but I only turn the charger on "while charging"....when done charging it gets turned off. I'm not a fan of leaving "some" electrical equipment turned on and in standby mode 24/7 even if they are supposedly designed for such primarily due to power fluctuations/surges/thunder storms in Thailand. For me, EV chargers fit in this category of not leaving them turned on all the time. However, I have no qualms leaving TV set-top boxes, Wifi routers, home water pumps, etc., powered all the time since they are designed for it and it would be a pain in the butt using them otherwise I too have a 2023 Atto 3 that came with a free wall charger (a basic Zhida RFID card 7KW/32A model) and installation with 2 year warranty....got the car and charger in late Oct 2023. So, in won't be until around Nov 2025 until my this charger breaks. 😜 BYD has jumped around with the specific free wall charger it provides depending on what promotion was in effect when a person bought their vehicle, what BYD model they bought, etc. And in some cases (increasingly it seems) a free charger is not part of the deal....I guess that was one way for BYD to help maintain profit while lowering the EV price. But "right now" BYD seems to be back on the band wagon of providing a free wall charger....but gosh knows what the their promotion will bring. During the ongoing EV price war BYD has been jumping around with the free charger models it provides (if provided)....probably depends on which charger manufacturer offers BYD the cheapest deal on charger buys which I'm sure does a LARGE scale basis. With the "current" Atto promotion they are providing a free Autel wall charger (don't know the specific Autel model)....but come the next promotion the free wall charger may not be offered.

"This everyone (i.e., me)" would not benefit because I run one large home A/C 24/7, another large A/C 10/7 (just night use), several other medium A/Cs that get run a just a few hours each month during the day, use a clothes dryer, washing machine, 3 frigs, a couple of water heaters, water pump, several TVs, bunch of other electronics, etc....etc....etc...and I have an EV which I prefer to charge whenever I want vs waiting until nighttime or the weekends. The wife and I are retired...predominantly at home enjoying the A/C during the hot day vs being cooled by a work place A/C. My electricity consumption is around 1,500KWH per month. Around 16 years ago when first retiring to Thailand and buying our home during that first year I compared/priced-out if I would be better off with a standard rate meter or TOU meter in regards to monthly electric cost. The standard rate meter won in the cost comparison "in my case".....whether a standard or TOU meter is best for an individual (cost-wise per month) will depend on how much "and" at what times they use the majority of their electricity....each individual will be different even if they own an EV.

Thanks for the clarification. One of my neighbors has a similar Benz PHEV...he said he can get about 20km on battery alone.

What kind of hybrid car do you have? Sounds like it's a "PHEV ( a Plug-in HEV) that you charge from solar? That is the hybrid type with a larger battery that can not usually be fully charged from just running the combustion engine to charge the traction battery and charging by plugging it into a charger is required. The reason I ask is when someone just says "hybrid" (or HEV) that usually means an ICEV with a "small" EV traction battery and electrical motor to assist the ICEV combustion motor and maybe even allow a few kilometers of running only on battery power.....and does "not" have a charging port as the combustion engine takes care of charging the small traction battery.

Neta V have liquid battery cooling....i.e., glycol running thru the traction battery cooling plate just like BYD vehicles.

I expect the car company really meant they would arrange to have the charger connected to his "main circuit panel"....that is, where all his current circuit breakers are. Since he has single phase100A service he meets the electrical requirement to install a line (10mm2 wire) from the charger to the main circuit box where the company would install a 40A circuit breaker to feed the 32A/7KW wall charger. MEA may not allow installation of a "separate" meter just for the charger as around a year ago PEA said they would no longer do such except in very limited, special cases and MEA may have mirrored the PEA policy (I'm not sure). Apparently too many bad apples started abusing use of TOU meter for EV charging. If MEA will only allow 1 meter (i..e, the current meter) he should stick with it as I expect it's "not" a TOU meter as TOU meters definitely do not fit everyone's live style in when they use electricity. Most people only go the TOU meter route if they plan to use the "great majority" of their monthly electricity usage (i.e, A/C, TV, frigs, pumps, etc...etc.) between 10pm and 9am weekdays and all hours Sat & Sun. A person really needs to have a good grasp of "when...what hours and days" he uses electricity to ensure he makes the most cost effective decision as to whether to use a Standard or TOU meter. It doesn't sound like he needs to change his current meter which is probably a standard rates meter (i.e., not TOU).

Have a 2023 BYD Atto....a little over 36K kilometers and almost 18 months old....haven't noticed any decrease in A/C cooling performance or increase in noise level....nor increase in fuel/electrons consumption. Fuel consumption indicator has stayed between 12.6 to 12.8 KWH per 100Km....mostly 12.7KWH/100Km like it's at right now. Typically the only time the A/C is significantly used to help cool the glycol/water running thru the traction battery cooling plate (as well as the drive motor, radiator, etc) is on "hot, very sunny" days after driving continuously for around an hour which has given the battery enough time to heat-up enough to require the A/C to assist with the traction battery cooling. At all other times it's predominately the radiator/heat pump system doing the traction battery glycol/water cooling. The A/C starts assisting in the traction battery cooling effort in the 35-38C battery temp ball park on my Atto....that's not ambient temp but the temp of the battery. The ambient/air temp could be 40C or more but the traction battery could still be significantly lower than that if the car hasn't been drove continuously for around 45 minutes causing the battery to heat-up from current flow....like it had been setting all night in your carport and then you jump in the car a 1pm/hot mid day to do a brief trip which is not a long enough time to cause the battery temp to heat-up significantly due to the battery's BIG thermal mass. EV batteries have such a BIG "thermal mass" it takes them a while to heat-up after cooling completely down like setting overnight....typically just doing daily local drives like say 40Km back and forth to do groceries runs, drop family off, a short drive to work, etc., does not cause the battery to heat-up enough to require cooling above and beyond normal radiator glycol/water cooling capability...the A/C is almost totally used to cool the cabin and not needed to help cool the battery except after running the EV continuously for around 45-60 minutes. The heat pump system on BYD vehicles works really well for cooling purposes here in Thailand...can't speak to how well it would work to "heat" the car in a cold/snow environment which I'm not expecting to ever see in my Thailand driving. I base this on monitoring OBD2 data that gives extensive battery temperature info (there are 10 temperature probes in my Atto's 60.5KWH traction battery on monitored by OBD2) Atto extended range and it's pretty obvious when A/C cooling kicks in for the battery. Below is an OBD2 data snapshot while I was AC/7KW home wall charging my Atto about an hour ago....just before the sun had went down. As you will see the battery is receiving 6.25KW of charge with the average traction battery temp of 34C. That "average" consists of 10 different temp probes spaced every 12 or 14 blade batteries in the Extended Range Atto 127 blade battery pack of 60.5KWH. And the temp of the water running thru the drive motor was still 55C as I had just finished a 120Km round trip to the mother-in-law's house. And just because the drive motor is showing a 55C glycol/water temp that does not mean the temp of the glycol/water in the traction battery's cooling plate is 55C due to how the heat pump system system works.....the battery's glycol//water temp was around 34C as in this case the A/C was not running/assisting in the cooling....the magic of a heat pump system.

Here's the 46th Bangkok International Motor Show 24 Mar-6 Apr 2025 sales chart. What I was "kinda" surprised by was Toyota being displaced by BYD/Densa for the #1 sales spot. I thought BYD would probably come in #2 again like the last motor show...but times are a'changing...and BYD has come out with a lot more models over the last year....more choices even to include HEV. Then GAC AION and Deepal (electric car companies) coming in #3 and #4. Honda then coming in #5. Toyota and Honda "might want to get their heads out of their ICEV hole" and get moving a lot faster on making BEVs. Then again, maybe both of them have an awesome new traction battery and/or combustion engine "just around the corner" that will kill-off EVs---seems Toyota has been projecting such for years now. (giggle, giggle) https://autolifethailand.tv/booking-motor-show-2025-46th/

And here's the expanded motor show sales chart. What I was "kinda" surprised by was Toyota being displaced by BYD/Densa for the #1 sales spot. I thought BYD would probably come in #2 again like the last motor show...but times are a'changing...and BYD has come out with a lot more models over the last year....more choices even to include HEV. Then GAC AION and Deepal (electric car companies) coming in #3 and #4. Honda then coming in #5. Toyota and Honda "might want to get their heads out of their ICEV hole" and get moving a lot faster on making BEVs. Then again, maybe both of them have an awesome new traction battery and/or combustion engine "just around the corner" that will kill-off EVs---seems Toyota has been projecting such for years now. (giggle, giggle) https://autolifethailand.tv/booking-motor-show-2025-46th/

A few months ago when my Atto left rear turn light assembly needed replacement (not accident related...just some of the LEDs died) it took my BYD dealership in Bangkok almost two weeks to get a replacement assembly. And the dealershp swore it came from the BYD main warehouse in Bangkok (i.e., the BIG BYD warehouse used to supply all dealerships in Thailand with spare parts) to include replacement traction batteries). I even bugged the dealership twice via visits during those two weeks asking when is the part arriving that is supposedly just across town as I live in and the dealership are also in Bangkok. I think the part actually had to come from China as in the dealership ordered from the Bangkok main warehouse and the warehouse didn't have it in stock for whatever reason so the warehouse ordered it from China....when arriving the main warehouse it was then reshipped to the dealership. It just seemed my dealership was at the mercy of the main/BIG BYD warehouse in Bangkok in getting the part.

So, to clear things up in my mind, did the car set in the repair shop for 8 weeks (7 weeks awaiting insurance company decision + 1 week of actual repair) or just 1 week in the shop?

Now, that's down right terrible service (insurance coverage-wise). Any idea as to why the insurance company took so l....o.....n.....g just to make the decision to begin repairs? Like was it simply because it was an "electric car" issue, some legal detail not related to type of vehicle, maybe something related to the "1st year insurance that BYD pays for," etc. Shame it took so long just to begin repairs.

Per note codes in other reporting BYD is one of the companies "not" reporting sales numbers during the show. More companies are going this route of only reporting numbers at the end of the event "or even not at all." .

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicle_registration_plates_of_Thailand

If it will make you feel better file a complaint with some agency, but you are probably pissing into the wind. Last year lots of people filed complaints regarding price reductions like you experienced and some even filed class action law suits. But as far as I know other than some govt spokesperson saying they are working the issue to get some compensation for some customers the Thailand Consumer Protection Broad announced in Nov 2024 that BYD had not broken any advertising laws which probably put a wooden stake in the heart of any complaints/law suits. See below Bangkok Post weblink. Also even before that in mid 2024 when the govt was negotiating with BYD regarding the price reductions some hi-so govt spokesman in late July said BYD had agreed to provide free charging "for a year" for some customers...but when BYD formally unveiled the free charging promotion it was only for 5 months and 3 days (1 Aug 2024-3 Jan 2025). https://www.bangkokpost.com/business/motoring/2911231/thai-investigation-clears-byd-over-discounts PUBLISHED : 29 Nov 2024 at 18:21

I don't expect major EV sales growth in the US over the next 4 years as the current administration (i.e., Donald and crew) are a "drill baby drill" and "protect legacy auto" bunch. But even Donald and crew can't keep the EV genie in the bottle forever....it will probably be 5-10 years before EV sales growth in the US really spikes. In the interim the rest of the world will generate the bulk of EV sales growth. It's great to have so many EV choices here in Thailand.

It will definitely take much longer for US folks to transition to EVs with legacy auto makers lobbying harder than ever for help from the US govt to protect their industry like in the form of high tariffs....and big oil is helping in that effort. But there are other major factors also such as the much, much bigger distances many Americans frequently travel and a charging network that needs much greater expansion. The US mainland (a.k.a., lower 48 states) makes Thailand-sized countries look like short drives to visit an in-law on a Sunday. Yes, most driving that people do is predominately local, but many people routinely also do long distance driving across multiple states and time zones.....l......o......n......g distances...I know I sure use to when living/working in the U.S. But the ICEV to EV transition will surely greatly accelerate over next 5-10 years (it will take a while) as US consumers demand much cheaper EV vehicles that they keep hearing about other countries having like in China, Europe, Thailand, etc. Legacy auto and big oil can't keep the EV genie in the bottle much longer especially for young adults who are more comfortable with technology changes.

See below Bangkok Post 26 March 2025 article for full details. And seems BEVs and PHEVs had a nice sales increase (59% and 209%, respectively) when comparing Feb 2025 to Feb 2024 sales....can't say the same for ICEV and HEV. https://www.bangkokpost.com/business/motoring/2987518/car-producers-postpone-export-models

And my mid January prediction (below) of the Sealion 7 dropping in price by at least Bt150K by 1 July 2025 has come true way before 1 July with a Bt150K price reduction in the AWD model. This ongoing price war don't care if it's a super popular/on backorder or unpopular model....the cut throat pricing will continue. Heck, by 1 July BYD could very well sneak in another price cut of around Bt50K on one of the Sealion 7 models in the form a straight out price reduction or smoke and mirrors cash back type promotion. Both EV and ICEV manufacturers are still at war---price-wise!

As more and more ICEV drivers transition to EVs I sure hope they can handle the increased power/torque/speed of an EV. Probably going to be a lot more neck injuries caused by increased acceleration & G-forces...especially for females with their delicate necks. Of course some females can not experience neck injuries as they are pure demons which can rotate their heads 360 degrees. 😜 Maybe the government should require special driver license for EV drivers...a license that includes training in acceleration, G-forces, etc. Heck, I'm not sure, but I don't even think governments started requiring a driver license until the technology transition from horse & buggy to motorized vehicles" began over a 100 years ago. Maybe this technology transition period of ICEV to EV should require a new special license--and of course at a higher price to ensure a new source of tax revenue. 😁 P.S. Above is all sarcasm. 😉

From googling this it seems the pro Just doing the every 3-6 months discharge to at least 10% and then slow charging back 100% to recalibrate the SOC indicator and range guess-o-meter "as recommended by BYD (and even Tesla) for LFP traction batteries" is not the core case. It's either some software glitch or 12V battery problem. From googling I came across lots of folks who ran into this issue even when their high voltage traction battery was at a high level SOC. Some just came back to the car after being in the mall for a few hours and the Seal was dead/asleep. Some figured out it was caused by the 12V battery running down/entering sleep mode when the hood, door, etc., was left open for an extended time like overnight or a few days. But then others ruled out 12V battery drain as the problem but some software glitch telling the 12V battery to go night-night. As with a lot of car issues, there can be more than one cause of a problem. But yea, I would definitely have your 12V battery checked out....have a health/capacity check done....check for loose/corroded terminals, etc. And I would recommend you install a Bluetooth 12V voltage monitor on your battery as this will allow you to easy see and track the 12V battery voltage/SOC/temp.....greatly help to spot issues well in advance and/or confirm whether the battery is asleep/dead without needing to access the battery as the mobile app used with the monitor will tell you what is going on 24/7. I installed Ancel BM200 Bluetooth 12V Battery Monitors on both my 2023 BYD Atto and 2009 Toyota Fortuner about a year ago....the monitor works like a charm....has a voltage measurement accuracy of 0.03V (30mv), only draws 1.5ma working current, and includes 30 days memory. Cost is around Bt500 plus or minus Bt100 depending on promotions, discounts, etc. I brought mine off Lazada for around Bt420 including shipping around a year ago.

In BYD vehicles that KmH/100Km consumption estimate is like its NEDC (Not Even Damn Close) range estimation. Like my Atto has a NEDC range rating of 480Km. And if I use the Atto's consumption estimate (snapshot below) I'm consuming 12.7KWH per 100Km after 35,513Km of driving...about 99.9% of those kilometers were done in ECO mode with light foot driving here in and around the greater Bangkok area and bordering provinces with very little of those kilometers exceeding 120KmH and also not a lot of terrible Bangkok traffic since I don't live in the highrise, central Bangkok area where living half your life at a stop light/in a traffic jam can be the norm.....my Bangkok driving is where I can usually move along in the 50-80KmH ballpark. A/C set to 22C. Since my Atto Extend range model has a 60.48KWH battery and using the consumption numbers it translates to a range of 476Km....yea, right, maybe if using NEDC type math. Real-world I get around 400 to 442Kmh range depending on the time of year and of course the type of driving....a person gets better fuel efficiency during the cooler parts of the year as the air-con uses fewer electrons. My last two real world range tests where I make sure I use a light foot in driving, very little to no driving faster the 90KmH, "and" taking the SOC down to less than 10% (like even to 1%) was back in Sep 2024 and Jan 2024 where I got a range of 424Kmh which does exceed the Atto WLTP 420Km range rating but well short of its Not Even Damn Close (NEDC) 480KmH range rating. In some previous real world tests I've got as high at 442Km range. Do "not" base your BYD vehicle's range estimation on what its consumption reading tells you....base it on some real world range tests where you drive the car down to around 10% or less. But even driving down to say around 25% SOC can also give a fairly close real world range estimation. The BYD consumption guesstimate appears to not count total consumption as at least on my Atto...it gives a reading that is around 15% low real-world. Maybe it don't count A/C consumption which averages around 1.5KwH after the cabin has cooled down on hot days....and can even reach up to 4KwH when first starting the car if its been setting in the bright, hot sun. Maybe it don't count the time/electrons you are eating when not moving like at stop lights/stuck in a traffic jam, idling in the parking lot, etc. And maybe BYD just tweaks that consumption algorithm to give Happy Face type readings that always seem to be close to the car's NEDC rating.