Pib

V2.7.0 arrived my phone yesterday. Quite a change in appearance from the earlier version when seeing V2.7.0 for the first time. But after the initial surprise of the revamped appearance there appears to only be one real change/improvement and that is the addition of a "Vehicle Health" selection/icon which opens up to show the health of nine car systems.

I really don't expect BYD Rever to provide much of any explanation as that would be lose of face. Expect they will use a "just let it fade away" type approach when it comes to any explanation. But if an explanation does come I expect it will be made to appear as Gbox being the party-pooper when in fact it appears Gbox is just protecting itself. And I can just see dealership reps giving "beat around the bushes" type answers when customers ask about Gbox no longer working on their BYD vehicle....Gbox installed by the dealership during the BYD SIM upgrade. I'll be asking that Gbox question in a few more weeks when I go to my dealership to schedule the 2 yr/40,000 kilometer checkup as I'm fast approaching 39K kilometers and will reach 40K well before the 2 year point with my Atto. When first accepting the car the dealership stressed to have checkups done "plus or minus 1,000km of the checkup kilometer interval" in those cases where you reach the kilometers point before the time interval point Basically, accomplish the checkup based on "whichever one occurs first....time or distance."

Sure looks like Gbox in BYD vehicles, or any automotive brand vehicle, is off the table for legal use at least for now. See below Facebook thread and a snapshot of a Gbox memorandum. https://www.facebook.com/groups/735185977856032/?locale=th_TH

Me a farang....me have a postpaid DTAC SIM for many years. When I got it I just showed my passport which had a 1 year visa/permit to stay in it...a Non-OA visa at the time....the SIM/billing is in my name. My Thai wife got her DTAC postpaid SIM at the same time wit the SIM/billing in her name. And as a good farang I pay both bills each month. 😜

I will not be surprised in the least if the BYD installed Gbox during the free SIM upgrade ever works again. I expect there was some type of violation of terms of agreement between BYD and Gbox...or maybe BYD HQ decided to pull the plug on Gbox working but the error messag implies it's Gbox being the bad guy. Who knows. This brings back memories for a half dozen or so years ago when AIS Fibre home internet started allowing 3rd party side loaded apps to be installed on their AIS Playbox.....Playbox is the name of the Android box provided for their internet TV/movie service which I use. For about a year a person could sideload Android apps on the AIS Playbox to work side by side with the basic TV and Movie apps that AIS preloads via firmware as part of their internet TV service. Then AIS said they were going to stop allowing sideloading of apps during a firmware update of the AIS Playbox. AIS Fibre never said why they did this flipflop but I expect it caused problems where a person would sideload some app(s) which conflicted with the AIS-pre-installed apps on the basic box hardware which would cause the customer to call AIS for help in trying to get their Playbox to work again so they could watch TV. AIS probably decided they were getting too many such calls....was giving their Playbox service a bad name/reputation for reliability and decided to shutdown the ability to run/install any apps other than those that AIS pushes through periodic Playbox firmware update. Kinda like how BYD periodically sends out OTAs.

That's what I've always used....my Thai Pink ID card 13 digit number. But any 13 digit might work if a person don't have a Pink Thai ID card....and the 13 digit number Thai authorities put on a person's COVID record would work. And if a person has a Thai Tax number that 13 digit number will definitely work. The charging app's seem to want a 13 digit number as in a Thai ID card number since the Thai Revenue Dept requires such when a person wants to use receipts for tax deductions purposes. If it wasn't for the Thai Revenue Dept requirement I expect the charging apps would accept a passport number or maybe not even care about a tax ID number.

I contacted Rever Customer Service via the Rever Automotive app regarding above. They responded saying they are aware of the problem and currently working on identifying an appropriate resolution. Or said another away, Standby to Standby.

Another comment about ReverSharger DC chargers is you can also register for Plug & Charge....if your EV works with the Plug & Charge protocol (ike BYD vehicles do) you can register for such but it's not required. When registered for such you just need to pull-up to a Reversharger DC charger, plug in your EV (no scanning of any charger code, etc., required) and your EV automatically starts charging. PEA offers the same/similar protocol called AutoCharge and it "use" to work for me with my Atto but starting about a year ago it stopped working although I still have the PEA app setting turned on regarding their AutoCharge feature and the app has never asked me again if I want to setup AutoCharge....oh well. Anyway, Plug & Charge/AutoCharge is a very nice feature...just plug-in your EV, charging automatically starts (just like charging your smartphone). Now some might not think it's a big deal....but after you used various DC chargers on road trips and occasionally run into those chargers where your charging app/phone just can't seem to get the charger going because the charger's QR/bar code is not being accepted due to a worn/faded code, your phone seemingly not being the best to scan codes in bright or dim light, etc., a person learns quickly to like the Plug & Charge/AutoCharge feature that bypasses the initial/start charging QR/bar code scanning process....one less obstacle to an easy charging process.

I'm registered with and have used 6 different charging apps....PTT EV Station, PEA, EA Anywhere, Elexa, Altervim, and ReverSharger. They all work pretty much the same and all are easy to use although some I would classify into the super easy to use ballpark depending on if they automatically start charging if you have registered your vehicle with the app or they don't require you to scan the chargers bar a 2nd time when disconnecting. But like I said they are all easy to use and I give a plus 1 to those that also all payment via QR Code/PromptPay and/or have a Wallet function....those apps that only allow payment via debit/credit card, like PTT, get minus 1 from me since debit/credit card payments can sometimes get rejected. ReverSharger allows you to pay via credit/debit card and/or Wallet....you top-up the Wallet via QR Code/PromptPay. A good thing about payment via QR Code is you don't have to worry about your debit/credit card rejecting the payment transaction (i.e., blocked payment). And a good thing about paying from the app's Wallet is there is zero chance of the payment failing as you already have funds in the Wallet....no worry about your debit/credit card blocking the transaction, maybe attempting a QR payment is the wee hours just after midnight when it seems a lot of banks provide notice payment via QR Payment will be offline for an hour or so say from 2am to 3am as some kind of mobile banking maintenance occurs. Anyway, ReverSharger works fine although they are not the cheapest. Like at the moment in time 21 Apr/Mon/8am:55am the price per KWH at the closet ReverSharger and PTT DC charger to me here in Bangkok is Bt8.00/KWH. In comparison the cost of the nearest PTT and PEA DC charger is Bt6.60 for PTT and PEA Bt6.50/KWH. Note: Rates can vary throughout the week and time of day....and also sometimes there are special promotions. But when I'm on a road trip and want to DC charge it's not the cost per KWH that lures me to a charger but the charger's location. PTT has DC chargers at many of it's PTT stations (most marked with the EV logo on the station's road side sign but some stations have a DC charger but no EV logo on their sign....best to go by what the PTT app shows as to charger locations). PEA also has a lot. Lot more PTT stations along major roadroads than ReverSharger. In closing, although I use apps that only allow payment via debit/credit card, like PTT, I really wish those apps would also allow other forms of payment like via QR code, Wallet, etc., as this helps to prevent your card info from getting fraudulently used/hacked. Around two months ago my Thai bank debit card got a late Friday night charge (just before I was getting ready to crawl in bed) for a few hundred baht for a "Spotify" payment. Luckily I happen to notice the SMS notification of the charge within minutes of it occurring, immediately called the Thai bank to notify them of the fraudulent charge, and Suspend the card (Suspend is what this Thai bank calls Cancelation of the card....I went and got a new card on Monday morning at no charge). Anyway, I did get the fraudulent charged refunded to my bank acct about 10 calendar days later (no paperwork required....just the my notification via phone of the fraudulent transaction) but I did have to bother/ping my Thai bank after a week asking about the refund as they initially told me the refund would occur with 7 calendar (not business) days. Now the only place I have my Thai bank debit card loaded online is in some of those charging apps....and I've never used the card for any other online payment. So, my gut feel is my card info got hacked from one of those apps but a person will never really know how a person's card info might have got into the wild...into the hand's pf a scammer. Anyway, I have reloaded my new debt card into the some apps, especially those that only allow payment via debit/credit card, but I now use mbanking to keep the card "locked" for any kind of purchase "until" I need to use for such like a charging app payment. I then unlock the card for a few minutes via mbanking, accomplish the payment/purchase, and then relock the card for payment/purchases. I've done that 3 or 4 times over the last few months (to include just yesterday to charge at a PTT station) and it works like a charm.....keeps the card secured even if your card info somehow gets into the wild. Summary: ReverShargers work fine.

From looking at/translating the comments this problem is apparently hitting everyone....started about a day ago.

Ditto screen on my Atto.

RTV would work like a charm....flexible, waterproof, etc.....its temperature range is typically from around a -60C to hundreds of degrees C. RTV is so good for many repairs. I doubt Super Glue would work well in this situation especially for long term. Here's one of many youtube videos on the subject...RTV is used. Just use your "wet" finger tip to smooth the silicon.

Don't you just love how products seem to fail just outside their warranty period. Can almost make a person think there is some hidden electronic component or firmware coding set to make the product have a fatal heart attack just outside its warranty coverage. 😜 I expect almost everyone has experienced these kind of failures....I know I sure have. Anyway, did the Duosida charger just "completely stop working" or would only work properly on a intermittent basis or did it continue to fire-up but wouldn't allow a charge or ???? And did you leave it turned on pretty much 24/7 (even when not charging for days) or turn it on only when wanting to charge? The reason I ask about 2nd question is when the BYD charger installation contractor installed my free "Zhida RFID 7KW wall charger) he said it was best from a "charger lifetime" to leave it on 24/7 (i.e., let it stay in standby mode) "if I charge at least once a week." Now I do charge at least once a week....in fact multiple times....but I only turn the charger on "while charging"....when done charging it gets turned off. I'm not a fan of leaving "some" electrical equipment turned on and in standby mode 24/7 even if they are supposedly designed for such primarily due to power fluctuations/surges/thunder storms in Thailand. For me, EV chargers fit in this category of not leaving them turned on all the time. However, I have no qualms leaving TV set-top boxes, Wifi routers, home water pumps, etc., powered all the time since they are designed for it and it would be a pain in the butt using them otherwise I too have a 2023 Atto 3 that came with a free wall charger (a basic Zhida RFID card 7KW/32A model) and installation with 2 year warranty....got the car and charger in late Oct 2023. So, in won't be until around Nov 2025 until my this charger breaks. 😜 BYD has jumped around with the specific free wall charger it provides depending on what promotion was in effect when a person bought their vehicle, what BYD model they bought, etc. And in some cases (increasingly it seems) a free charger is not part of the deal....I guess that was one way for BYD to help maintain profit while lowering the EV price. But "right now" BYD seems to be back on the band wagon of providing a free wall charger....but gosh knows what the their promotion will bring. During the ongoing EV price war BYD has been jumping around with the free charger models it provides (if provided)....probably depends on which charger manufacturer offers BYD the cheapest deal on charger buys which I'm sure does a LARGE scale basis. With the "current" Atto promotion they are providing a free Autel wall charger (don't know the specific Autel model)....but come the next promotion the free wall charger may not be offered.

"This everyone (i.e., me)" would not benefit because I run one large home A/C 24/7, another large A/C 10/7 (just night use), several other medium A/Cs that get run a just a few hours each month during the day, use a clothes dryer, washing machine, 3 frigs, a couple of water heaters, water pump, several TVs, bunch of other electronics, etc....etc....etc...and I have an EV which I prefer to charge whenever I want vs waiting until nighttime or the weekends. The wife and I are retired...predominantly at home enjoying the A/C during the hot day vs being cooled by a work place A/C. My electricity consumption is around 1,500KWH per month. Around 16 years ago when first retiring to Thailand and buying our home during that first year I compared/priced-out if I would be better off with a standard rate meter or TOU meter in regards to monthly electric cost. The standard rate meter won in the cost comparison "in my case".....whether a standard or TOU meter is best for an individual (cost-wise per month) will depend on how much "and" at what times they use the majority of their electricity....each individual will be different even if they own an EV.

Thanks for the clarification. One of my neighbors has a similar Benz PHEV...he said he can get about 20km on battery alone.

What kind of hybrid car do you have? Sounds like it's a "PHEV ( a Plug-in HEV) that you charge from solar? That is the hybrid type with a larger battery that can not usually be fully charged from just running the combustion engine to charge the traction battery and charging by plugging it into a charger is required. The reason I ask is when someone just says "hybrid" (or HEV) that usually means an ICEV with a "small" EV traction battery and electrical motor to assist the ICEV combustion motor and maybe even allow a few kilometers of running only on battery power.....and does "not" have a charging port as the combustion engine takes care of charging the small traction battery.

Neta V have liquid battery cooling....i.e., glycol running thru the traction battery cooling plate just like BYD vehicles.

I expect the car company really meant they would arrange to have the charger connected to his "main circuit panel"....that is, where all his current circuit breakers are. Since he has single phase100A service he meets the electrical requirement to install a line (10mm2 wire) from the charger to the main circuit box where the company would install a 40A circuit breaker to feed the 32A/7KW wall charger. MEA may not allow installation of a "separate" meter just for the charger as around a year ago PEA said they would no longer do such except in very limited, special cases and MEA may have mirrored the PEA policy (I'm not sure). Apparently too many bad apples started abusing use of TOU meter for EV charging. If MEA will only allow 1 meter (i..e, the current meter) he should stick with it as I expect it's "not" a TOU meter as TOU meters definitely do not fit everyone's live style in when they use electricity. Most people only go the TOU meter route if they plan to use the "great majority" of their monthly electricity usage (i.e, A/C, TV, frigs, pumps, etc...etc.) between 10pm and 9am weekdays and all hours Sat & Sun. A person really needs to have a good grasp of "when...what hours and days" he uses electricity to ensure he makes the most cost effective decision as to whether to use a Standard or TOU meter. It doesn't sound like he needs to change his current meter which is probably a standard rates meter (i.e., not TOU).

Have a 2023 BYD Atto....a little over 36K kilometers and almost 18 months old....haven't noticed any decrease in A/C cooling performance or increase in noise level....nor increase in fuel/electrons consumption. Fuel consumption indicator has stayed between 12.6 to 12.8 KWH per 100Km....mostly 12.7KWH/100Km like it's at right now. Typically the only time the A/C is significantly used to help cool the glycol/water running thru the traction battery cooling plate (as well as the drive motor, radiator, etc) is on "hot, very sunny" days after driving continuously for around an hour which has given the battery enough time to heat-up enough to require the A/C to assist with the traction battery cooling. At all other times it's predominately the radiator/heat pump system doing the traction battery glycol/water cooling. The A/C starts assisting in the traction battery cooling effort in the 35-38C battery temp ball park on my Atto....that's not ambient temp but the temp of the battery. The ambient/air temp could be 40C or more but the traction battery could still be significantly lower than that if the car hasn't been drove continuously for around 45 minutes causing the battery to heat-up from current flow....like it had been setting all night in your carport and then you jump in the car a 1pm/hot mid day to do a brief trip which is not a long enough time to cause the battery temp to heat-up significantly due to the battery's BIG thermal mass. EV batteries have such a BIG "thermal mass" it takes them a while to heat-up after cooling completely down like setting overnight....typically just doing daily local drives like say 40Km back and forth to do groceries runs, drop family off, a short drive to work, etc., does not cause the battery to heat-up enough to require cooling above and beyond normal radiator glycol/water cooling capability...the A/C is almost totally used to cool the cabin and not needed to help cool the battery except after running the EV continuously for around 45-60 minutes. The heat pump system on BYD vehicles works really well for cooling purposes here in Thailand...can't speak to how well it would work to "heat" the car in a cold/snow environment which I'm not expecting to ever see in my Thailand driving. I base this on monitoring OBD2 data that gives extensive battery temperature info (there are 10 temperature probes in my Atto's 60.5KWH traction battery on monitored by OBD2) Atto extended range and it's pretty obvious when A/C cooling kicks in for the battery. Below is an OBD2 data snapshot while I was AC/7KW home wall charging my Atto about an hour ago....just before the sun had went down. As you will see the battery is receiving 6.25KW of charge with the average traction battery temp of 34C. That "average" consists of 10 different temp probes spaced every 12 or 14 blade batteries in the Extended Range Atto 127 blade battery pack of 60.5KWH. And the temp of the water running thru the drive motor was still 55C as I had just finished a 120Km round trip to the mother-in-law's house. And just because the drive motor is showing a 55C glycol/water temp that does not mean the temp of the glycol/water in the traction battery's cooling plate is 55C due to how the heat pump system system works.....the battery's glycol//water temp was around 34C as in this case the A/C was not running/assisting in the cooling....the magic of a heat pump system.

Here's the 46th Bangkok International Motor Show 24 Mar-6 Apr 2025 sales chart. What I was "kinda" surprised by was Toyota being displaced by BYD/Densa for the #1 sales spot. I thought BYD would probably come in #2 again like the last motor show...but times are a'changing...and BYD has come out with a lot more models over the last year....more choices even to include HEV. Then GAC AION and Deepal (electric car companies) coming in #3 and #4. Honda then coming in #5. Toyota and Honda "might want to get their heads out of their ICEV hole" and get moving a lot faster on making BEVs. Then again, maybe both of them have an awesome new traction battery and/or combustion engine "just around the corner" that will kill-off EVs---seems Toyota has been projecting such for years now. (giggle, giggle) https://autolifethailand.tv/booking-motor-show-2025-46th/

And here's the expanded motor show sales chart. What I was "kinda" surprised by was Toyota being displaced by BYD/Densa for the #1 sales spot. I thought BYD would probably come in #2 again like the last motor show...but times are a'changing...and BYD has come out with a lot more models over the last year....more choices even to include HEV. Then GAC AION and Deepal (electric car companies) coming in #3 and #4. Honda then coming in #5. Toyota and Honda "might want to get their heads out of their ICEV hole" and get moving a lot faster on making BEVs. Then again, maybe both of them have an awesome new traction battery and/or combustion engine "just around the corner" that will kill-off EVs---seems Toyota has been projecting such for years now. (giggle, giggle) https://autolifethailand.tv/booking-motor-show-2025-46th/

A few months ago when my Atto left rear turn light assembly needed replacement (not accident related...just some of the LEDs died) it took my BYD dealership in Bangkok almost two weeks to get a replacement assembly. And the dealershp swore it came from the BYD main warehouse in Bangkok (i.e., the BIG BYD warehouse used to supply all dealerships in Thailand with spare parts) to include replacement traction batteries). I even bugged the dealership twice via visits during those two weeks asking when is the part arriving that is supposedly just across town as I live in and the dealership are also in Bangkok. I think the part actually had to come from China as in the dealership ordered from the Bangkok main warehouse and the warehouse didn't have it in stock for whatever reason so the warehouse ordered it from China....when arriving the main warehouse it was then reshipped to the dealership. It just seemed my dealership was at the mercy of the main/BIG BYD warehouse in Bangkok in getting the part.

So, to clear things up in my mind, did the car set in the repair shop for 8 weeks (7 weeks awaiting insurance company decision + 1 week of actual repair) or just 1 week in the shop?

Now, that's down right terrible service (insurance coverage-wise). Any idea as to why the insurance company took so l....o.....n.....g just to make the decision to begin repairs? Like was it simply because it was an "electric car" issue, some legal detail not related to type of vehicle, maybe something related to the "1st year insurance that BYD pays for," etc. Shame it took so long just to begin repairs.

Per note codes in other reporting BYD is one of the companies "not" reporting sales numbers during the show. More companies are going this route of only reporting numbers at the end of the event "or even not at all." .