Pib

Yes I have. My 7KW wall charger and Atto have a 91.5% charging efficiency (a.k.a., charging losses). The wall charger allows 30 to 31 amps to pass thru it. I calculated the charging efficiency by dviding the charger's output power (I have a power meter on it's output) into the charging power displayed on the Atto screen (and actually I've used OBD2 data which gives a little better accuracy). Depending on the traction battery's temperate I've checked the charging efficiency MANY times over many months and the charging efficiency has ranged from 90 to 93% so that's where I get my average 91.5% efficiency. So, 8.5% of the electrons are losses due to the EVs built in on-board charger, cable losses, etc...etc....the great bulk of that loss is the EV's on-board charger's conversion of AC to DC volts. And for the BYD portable charger (a.k.a., granny charger....granny safety switch) the charging efficiency is approx 83%....typical for small portable chargers since the EV's onboard charger power usage now accounts for a larger portion of the overall power. The car's on-board charger AC to DC conversion process is where the great bulk of the charging loss occurs...same for all EVs. The BYD portable 10A charger outputs appox 2KW....today I did another quick check and the portable charger was outputting 2050 watts while drawing 9.2 amps from the wall socket which is just below the granny chargers rated 10A rating. As you know a wall and portable AC charges are really just fancy "safety switches" (not chargers at all) that communicate to the EV regarding how many AC amps "max" the charger (whoops, I mean fancy safety switch) will allow to go thru it...and then the EV's BMS/on-board charger agree not to ask for more than that max amperage. With the EV and fancy switch now in agreement the switch allows the AC to follow thru it to the EV where the EV's on-board charger converts the AC to DC to charge the battery...and the wall/portable charger monitor the amperage draw to ensure the EV don't pull more than the charger's max thru-put allowed....if the charger tries to pull more than the max then the charger cuts off AC flow to the EV. Yeap, not a charger at all; just a fancy safety switch. Technically called "Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment (EVSE)" in EV charging standards/regulations.

Today I was getting some free electrons for my Atto (i.e., charging) at a BYD dealership and while charging I went in and looked at a couple of Sealion 7's they had on display. Really nice looking EV. Anyway I asked the salesperson if the Sealion had an 800 volt or 400 volt charging system? The rep didn't know, but went into the office were a couple other sales people were to ask the question and then came back with an the answer of it's a 500 (five hundred) volt system. A 400V system typically operates in the 300 to 500V range and an 800V system in the 600-900V ballpark. So, with that 500V answer they were basically saying it's a 400V system. Today I also sent a LINE message to another dealership that always sends me BYD advertisements and I asked it the Sealion had a 800V or 400V system. Their answer was 400+. So, two dealership have said it's a 400V system which matches up with what I see on the internet regarding Sealant models for this part of the world.

It's not crazy if you have easy and quick access to a charger and willing to expend time setting at a charger. But charging at home makes charging a LOT easier and cheaper...about as easy as keeping your smartphone charged. But let's see a picture of your electric meter along with the wires running to and from the meter.

What was it max DC charging rate? If it was rated at 150KW it's a 400V system; if around 240KW then it's an 800V system. Partial quote from Wiki. And below the quote is a snapshot from the ReverAutomotive Sealion 7 brochure showing the Thai model has 150KW max charging capability.

Until you identify your meter size you are just spinning your wheels in trying to nail down what "service amperage" you currently have. Assuming the mooban houses are fed via power poles & lines running up and down the sois vs no electric poles in your moobaan and all electrical wiring is underground your meter should be on a pole "very, very" close to your home...and from that meter wires run to your home via above ground lines or underground lines to connect to your home/main circuit box. Now if your home is really a townhouse physically connected to other townhouses then the meters for your complex of townhouses could be on the back/side of the complex all side by side. The picture of your main breaker box shows a 60A main breaker which means your meter could very well be a 30(100)A meter. Typically when you have 100A service (a.k.a., 30(100)A shown on the meter) you will have either an 80A or 100A main breaker vs the 60A you currently have. For you to have a 15(45A) meter (a.k.a., 45A service) the builder shouldn't be putting a 60A breaker in your main circuit box because 60A exceeds the meter's 45A meter capacity/rating. Maybe the builder installed a 60A main breaker for another reason like maybe the size of the wires running from the meter to the main breaker box can not handle 100A. Then again maybe the builder just figured no one will need more than 60A of power and a 60A breaker is cheaper to install than a 100A breaker. Go outside your home and look for the electric meter...it should be on a pole very, very close to your home. You electric bill would reflect the meter's long number and you will find that number also on the front of the meter. But if you do have a 15(45A) meter upgrading to 30(100)A meter may "not" be a simple meter swap because the wires that run from the electric poles on the soi to the meter and the wires running from the meter into your home would probably be different physical/amperage sizes. If the current wiring is say for a 15(45A) meter, well, PEA is not going to swap the meter until you pay to upgrade the wiring "to" the meter and "from" the meter "to" your main circuit box"....and possibly even a main circuit box upgrade if the box is not rated for 100A or more. The electric company has to ensure wiring all the way to your main circuit box is of adequate size for the electrical service you want....that is, 100A service. Go outside and find your meter...see what size it is...is it a 15(45A), a 30(100)A, etc. And also look at the wiring going "to" and "from" the meter....if the wiring is approximately the diameter of your thumb then it's probably 100A wiring....if the wiring is a little smaller than the diameter of your pinky finger then you probably have 45A or less wiring. Edit: and size you said most of the houses already have wall chargers well that's a good sign that maybe each house has 100A service capability with a simple meter swap and main circuit breaker swapout to 100A....both not costing much, quick, and easy.

Well, the landlord may be concerned about what impact the high amperage circuit will have on his property such as: - just how will the electrical lines be run, electrical conduits to be run on the inside/outside of walls/ceilings, appearance, residence modifications, etc. - is the current electrical service in "your" name or the landlord's name? If in the landlord's name this probably means the second meter dedicated to the EV will probably be in his name also which means he has another monthly electrical bill to consider. - when the tenant leaves who owns the the EV dedicated circuit installed (I expect the landlord is going to insist it becomes his property with the exception of the wall charger). Now if I was a landlord and knew how more and more people are switching to EVs and wall chargers are becoming an important consideration to potential renters if my current tenant wanted to pay for professional installation of a separate EV charger circuit "that would remain installed and be the landlord property (except the wall charger itself) I would welcome the installation.

Yeap....sounds about right since you'll need a separate electrical meter/service run from the soi electrical lines which will be dedicated to the EV wall charger. When you don't have at least a 100A service feeding your residence this what happens in that a separate electrical service, meter, and wire will be needed.

The Zhida 7KW wall charger works just fine...it's what came with my 2023 Atto which I bought in the later part of 2023. It uses an RFID card to turn it off and on. Using at 7KW charger will add about 10% charger per hour with my Atto 60.5KW battery. For installation you'll need single phase 100A service, 3 phase service, OR a separate single phase 45A service as the charger installers will need to put the 7KW wall charger on a 40A line with a 40A circuit breaker in the main box...they will also install a separate 40A/30ma ground fault circuit breaker close to the charger. The charger installers that BYD has contracted may want to visit you home a week or so "after" you buy/take possession of EV as site survey to determine if they can install the charger with your current home electrical setup....and you BYD dealership will ask for some basic info just before you buy regarding the electrical capability of your residence. That is, do you have 100A service, etc...etc...etc. You'll get a portable charger (a.k.a., lovingly nicknamed a granny charger) which can be plugged into a regular 16A house socket outlet. This granny charger will draw around 10 amps on the 220V sockets and have a charging capacity of approx 2.2KW. It will add about 3% charger per hour. So, if you say let it charge for 10 hours over night you can add 30% charge while you sleep...can keep the EV topped up. Edit: and the charger installers are just complying with PEA/MEA electric company electrical service regulations.

See weblink below for full 29 Nov 2024 news article. https://www.bangkokpost.com/business/motoring/2911231/thai-investigation-clears-byd-over-discounts Thai investigation ‘clears BYD over discounts’ Consumer Protection Board concluded Chinese EV maker did not break advertising law, say sources The Consumer Protection Board in Thailand has cleared the Chinese electric vehicle maker BYD of wrongdoing over discount practices that prompted complaints from BYD owners and a subsequent investigation, two sources familiar with the matter said. The government in July launched an investigation into BYD’s local distributor, Rever Automotive, after a complaint alleged they had told buyers that vehicle prices would rise after a discount campaign ended, but instead they cut prices further soon after — by as much as 340,000 baht.

BYD Vehicle Promotion Prices during the 28 No -10 Dec 2024 Motor Expo Show.

While I have no doubt that any EV parts/components "actually made in Thailand" would cost more than EV parts made in China I doubt a lot of EV parts/components are actually "made" in Thailand at this time. Instead, currently EV production in Thailand like the BYD new factory in Rayong Thailand is predominately an "assembly" factory where parts/assemblies made elsewhere (like in China) are shipped to Thailand and then "assembled" in Thailand. To get more technical the BYD plant in Thailand is really a "CKD" factory at this time where CKD stands for "Completely Knocked Down" where the vehicle is "assembled" from parts/assemblies made elsewhere like in China. https://www.wapcar.my/news/byd-opens-first-ckd-plant-in-south-east-asia-in-thailand-celebrates-with-price-cuts-for-atto-3-dolphin-of-up-to-rm-44k-80348 BYD opens first CKD plant in South East Asia in Thailand; celebrates with price cuts for Atto 3, Dolphin

Above where I talked the SIM and firmware upgrade I asked the dealership if they would also give me a "State of Health (SOH)" reading for my traction battery since it supposedly just involves them taking a reading with their "high end" OBD2 tablet which can read all data the BYD maintains in its BMS, ECUs, etc. The answer was a quick and definite "no as they will only do that for an apparent problem with the traction battery." I expect they do not want to go down that rabbit hole with customers unless there truly is possible problem with the traction battery. I was hoping they would give me a SOH reading to see if it matches up with my own SOH measurements using OBD2 data I can read with my cheapie OBD2 adapter and app. Basically to determine your own SOH reading you basically take the "Accumulated KWH Charge" and associated "Nominal State of Charge (SOC)" readings which comes direct from the EV OBD2 data...do that with as low of SOC as possible to increase the accuracy of your measurement/calculations. Since the Accumulated KWH Charge reading only reports in whole KWHs to get the most accurate SOH reading you need to start charging and watch for the Accumulated KWH reading to increases by 1 KWH....note that reading and also immediately note the Nominal SOC reading which will be to a tenth of a percentage...your EV display only shows whole numbers but the OBD2 data shows to the tenth of a percent. It's important to take these two readings as the KWH reading increases by 1KWH to significantly increase the accuracy of your measurement/calculations since each KWH can represent close to 2% depending on your traction battery size...like my Atto's 60.5KWH battery each 1KWH represents 1.65% SOC. If my Atto battery size was say 50KWH tenth each KWH is 2% SOC. It's just important to take the OBD2 Accumulated KWH Charge and Nominal SOC readings at the moment the KWH increases by 1KWH. Now, continue charging....you need to take you next Accumulated KWH Charge and Nominal SOC readings around 95 to 97% SOC because once the EV charges to 98.5% per OBD data reading (which will shown as 99% on your car's display) it will stop displaying a tenth of a percent increase above 98.5%...or at least it does with my Atto OBD data....that is, OBD data will not display 98.6, 98.7. 99.6%, etc.,)...and once the BMS determines the battery is 100% charged then the OBD reading will jump from 98.5% to 100% along with your car display now showing 100%, With those beginning and ending Accumulated KWH Charge and Nominal SOC readings you now "extrapolate that data to represent a charge from 0 to 100% (and be sure to adjust for the approx KWH in the battery when beginning the charge and the approx KWH after your last reading. I've probably lost a lot of you with this math. Anyway, I've done several of the SOH measurements over the last few months and my readings and math result in a 97.6% SOH after owing the Atto for 13 months and almost 26,000 kilometers. P.S. The OBD2 app I is use called Car Scanner Pro which does have a battery "SOH Calculated" which is a bogus reading (95.88% for my Atto) since it "not" a direct SOH reading determined by the BMS because I expect the software coding to extract the real-world SOH reading is most likely proprietary BYD data...or maybe the BMS don't even make a specific SOH determination as that's left up to different ways to determine SOH. The app developer knows EV owners really want to see a SOH reading so the author "calculated", repeat, calculated a SOH reading by looking at two pieces of OBD data that is directly available from the BMS....the High Voltage Battery Pack Factory Amp-Hour Capacity of each battery cell (152AH for my Atto) and the High Voltage Battery Pack Factory Nominal Capacity (145.73AH for my Atto). These two pieces of OBD data are hard coded at the Factory and never, repeat, never update as the battery ages. Divide 145.73 by 152 and you get a "Calculated SOH" according to the Car Scanner Pro app of 95.88% which is what Car Scanner Pro reports in "SOH Calculated' readout in....BUT as already mentioned this "calculated SOH" is based on two OBD2 data elements that are hard coded into the battery BMS at the Factory and never change...and will still report 95.88% next week, next month, next years, 10 years from now. So, to get a real-world SOH reading a person needs to do some KWH beginning and ending measurements along with some extrapolation math like I've talked above. Yeap, best I can figure my Atto's real world traction battery SOH is around 97.6% after13 months and 26,000km which also sounds about right based on LFP battery SOH data I've found on the internet.

See weblink below for full 28 Nov 2024 news article...partial quote from article also below. https://www.bangkokpost.com/business/motoring/2910632/car-trade-in-plan-deemed-insufficient Car trade-in plan deemed insufficient Industry skeptical that incentives proposed by government will revive slumping auto sales A government plan to launch a car trade-in programme is meant to revive domestic car sales, but car manufacturers and industry observers say it might not be enough, requesting more new measures to end the long slump. They are hopeful for improved car sales during the 12-day Thailand International Motor Expo, which starts on Friday. Industry Minister Akanat Promphan acknowledged automakers’ concerns over the nosedive in domestic sales as he presided at the 41st annual car event, being held at Impact Challenger in Nonthaburi. ....

And typically price discounts during motor show events also apply at any dealership in the country.....no need to actually attend the motor expo to get the discount.

Who's to say the pricing in China will not continue to drop which is turn drive continued price cuts outside of China like in Thailand? And these price's cuts on the BYD Seal are HUGE!!! If I was a person who bought a Seal over the last few months I would be livid!!!!

Looks like the Atto promotion/price reduction does "not" include a free wall charger with installation which is worth around Bt25K (or more depending on installation costs).

The way many people have become addicted to the "use of mobile phone apps" car manufacturers now many people want to have "plenty of apps" on their car system regardless of car being a BEV, ICEV, or Hybrid. And I think some folks have had their mobile phone surgically attached to their hand to ensure they can always access some app(s). It's quickly getting to the point car manufacturers know they "must" provide car infotainment systems that will mimics a person's mobile phone otherwise many potential customers will just go buy a vehicle from a manufacturer that does include a whiz infotainment system which includes lots of apps.

Based on BYD's past "limited time only" price reductions/promotions" (which turn out to be much long running promotions or even lower prices) I wouldn't be surprised to see this promotion pricing become the new baseline price after 10 Dec....or another "year end sale" promotion is announced maintaining the price. Can sure make potential customers gun-shy in buying an EV due to continued price cutting.

Seems the cut throat pricing and price war is still in full swing.

My guess is you will "not" receive the SIM upgrade unless you ask (press) for it...and it might not be a bad idea to visit the dealership over the next day or two that's doing the one year checkup to say you want the SIM upgrade done also just in case they need to order the SIM and/or adjust the appointment window length of time. And supposedly some folks have run into resistance from their dealership in doing the SIM swap/upgrade too many months before the 2 year subscription of the original SIM ends.

I also just noticed with the firmware upgrade that was part of the SIM swap/upgrade the Atto Navigation System (i.e., built-in map) is completely different....settings menu, appearance once opening, icons on the map, etc. Will need to play with it more over the coming days to see if this new version is better than the old version as the old version could definitely stand some improvements. But at least my Saved Locations were still in the map. I also noticed the firmware upgrade triggered a notification there was updated Voice Command software for English (American) and Thai ready for download/install which I did successfully via Wifi connection. Yeap...the SIM upgrade comes with a firmware update that goes beyond just "SIM stuff." I expect I'll find more changes over the coming days BUT I'm pretty sure I have already discovered (stumbled across) all the major firmware changes/updates.

Got the SIM upgrade/swap for my Atto today....it took the dealership about two hours to complete considering the associated firmware update, paperwork, and washing the car. Totally free. When the dust settled the original SINGTEL (Singapore Telecon) SIM was replaced with a True-H SIM....and a firmware update which included the G-Box app. The G-Box provides a virtual machine environment which allows a person to download/install Google apps within the G-Box virtual machine environment from the Google Play store. Same 2GB monthly data allotment for the new SIM and the original 2 year SIM subscription is extended by 3 months...end result is a 2 yr 3 month subscription from the date you originally took possession of your BYD vehicle. So, if you want to consume LOTS of data....like watching Youtube a lot....you'll need to use a Wifi connection/mobile HotSpot setup like you do now or you will quickly eatup all of your monthly 2GB allotment. I did use G-Box to logon to Google Play and install Youtube and Google Maps just as a test....install and startup of the two apps went fine. In Google Play the device appeared as a Google Pixel 5. It appears there are many, many apps a person can install. I then deleted the two apps and logged out of Google Play as I wanted to start from scratch again when I have adequate time to properly tinker. See snapshots and associated notes below for more info. And the BYD app continued to work fine with the new True SIM "although I did need to completely logon of the BYD app" and then log back in with password to establish a new connection due to the SIM swap in the car...then the BYD app and car were communicating again. Before swap-out of SingTel SIM for True-H SIM. After swap of SIM from SingTel to True-H G-Box App on Page 3 Below is what appears after tapping on above Gbox app icon. It show two pages of "recommended" apps but I expect you can do a search on Google Play and install many more apps if desired. As mentioned earlier after logging onto the installed Google Play app with one of my Google accts I then tapped on Youtube to install it...and then tapped on Google Maps to install it....those two apps then appeared under the "Installed Apps" area. When I deleted them they disappeared from the Installed Apps area and reappeared in the Recommended Apps area. Before deleting Youtube I checked to see if it would continue playing once putting the car in Drive for about 5 seconds and it did continue playing vs stopping....before when running Youtube without GBox, Youtube would stop playing and give a pop-up message saying it can only viewed while the vehicle is in Park.

Probably due to the different style of seating between a "SUV" type vehicle (like the Sealion 7) which typically offers a higher setting feel compared to a "sedan/saloon" type vehicle (like the Seal) which typically offers a lower setting feel. What's your approx height?

Great you arrived...no electrons shortage. Where you say "...ignore the apps..." surely you don't mean the actual charging network apps like the PTT and PEA apps as without the chargers showing on those apps you wouldn't have been able to use those chargers.