Pib

What makes you say TOU meters are not available with MEA? MEA should advertises TOU, has TOU tariffs, etc. https://www.mea.or.th/en/our-services/mea-service/e-service/electric-monthly-calculate

The BYD SIM that comes installed in the car.

On main screen select the Utilities Tools folder and then the Data Monitor icon. I think there is one more way but I forgot how.

Any system updates "do not" count/reflect against your monthly GB allotment. And a Hotspot just allows others to connect to the Hotspot signal transmitting from your EV if you give them the Hotspot password...just like the Hotspot settings on a smartphone.

Just as nice to know, the Seal's poor cousin Atto 3 got an OTA update (V1.7) yesterday (my Atto did...but apparently it been out for a few days to a week based on some Facebook posts/Youtubes). I had manually checked for an update yesterday morning...no update; but a little later around 1pm a little red dot appeared in the Vehicle icon in the lower right hand of the display. I'm at home partked so I started the update which said it would take 39 minutes to complete and that's about exactly how long it took. The update now allows the turning off of the daytime running lights but if you do so it only lasts for the current ignition cycle and then the lights are turned back on...you must turn off again on the next ignition cycle if you don't want the lights on. It also now allows you to turn off and on the Acoustic Vehicle Alert System (AVAS) (i.e., makes the sound when driving below 30Kmh to warn people/animals of an EV close by) and added an off/on AVAS icon to do such....and it stays off (or on) if you set as such after the current ignition cycle unlike the daytime running lights on/off setting. And the two AVAS sounds have changed....both different than before....more pleasing sounds than the previoius...one kinda like a clicking and one kinda like an ice cream truck. I had previously unhooked the AVAS sound box under the hood right behind the radiator because I hated the previous sounds (one like a spaceship hovering above you)...too loud and annoying. I hooked the sound box back up this morning to check the new AVAS capability, sounds, etc.,...and for now I have turned the AVAS off to continue my silent running. I'll experiment more with the new AVAS over the coming days to determine if might want to start using it....or continue my silent running. Added an electronic manual. Added Karaoke and Browser apps. Then the update got vague is saying it did some feature optimization of the user experience, improvement of driving comfort, optimization of the A/C system, etc. BYD's way of saying did some tweaks and fixed some software bugs/glitches, etc. Now yesterday morning I also noticed a little red dot next to Notifications Bell at the top center of the screen....I looked around for a notification but couldn't find anything...and the there was no red dot in the Vehicle icon in the lower right of the screen at that time. After the OTA update yesterday I noticed the Notification Bell red dot was still there and I looked again and this time I found a notification there was an Update available for the Thai language Voice Commands....I clicked the update/install button and about two minutes later the update finished installing and the Notification Bell red dot went away. I will note that after the OTA V1.7 update completed and I drove the car for the first time the wife noticed the Ambient lights on the both right hand side doors was on but not on the left hand doors. I had turned the lights off before the update...and there is no setting before or after the update just to have the lights on the right or left side. So I go into the Ambient light settings which are still off...turn them on...adjust the brightness up and down....turn the settings off again and now all the light are off like they are suppose to be. And one final OTA V1.7 oddly was right after the update I could adjust individual temperature settings for the A/C right and left side temp settings....before the update where you adjusted the left or right side it would always change both sides. But when I checked again about 10 minutes later it was back to where the individual A/C temp settings for left or right were once again locked to changing in sync....could not say set the left side to 21C and the right side to 23C....if you set either side to 21C it would automatically change the other side to be the same temp....just as how it operated before the OTA update. I guess the ambient lights and A/C situations "right after the update was temporary until the software updated configuration files associated with those settings. Just kinda weird....was beginning to think I had a corrupted OTA update. And this was the first time ever I went thru a vehicle OTA of the operating system as my 2009 Fortuner and previous vehicles didn't have such fancy stuff. Oh yea, I got my registration book and white tags yesterday/14 Dec...I originally picked up the car on 25 Oct.....took about 7 weeks for me here in Bangkok. However, I would have probably went faster if I was a Thai because even through my registration paperwork included a copy of my passport, my Yellow Book, my Pink ID card, and a letter from immigration saying I was a resident and could by a car, the DLT still had to see/physically touch my passport but didn't ask to do so until weeks later. They called my BYD dealership around 3 weeks after BYD initially submitted the registration paperwork in late Oct saying they wanted to see/touch my passport. My BYD dealership took me and my passport to the DLT so they could see the passport in mid Nov...after the DLT rep(s) saw/touched the passport they were happy. My registration book says it was generated on 16 Nov but it was only yesterday/14 Dec that BYD notified me I could come picked up the book, white plates, tax sticker for window, turn the red plates back in. Regarding my Bt5K deposit for the red plates, BYD refunds that your bank acct either on the 15th or 30th of the month....they need a copy of your bank book main page to do the refund. They said I will get my refund at the end of the month as I had just missed their mid month refund cycle.

If you meet the income requirements based on your "current" pension(s) amount....like say your monthly pension recently increased due to cost of living allowance adjustment....there is no need to wait one or two years for that amount to be shown on a file income tax return. Note: in some cases if a pension is totally or partially non-taxable/non-reportable like say a U.S. Veteran's Administration (VA) pension which is 100% tax free that pension amount would never appear on a tax return....makes it look like you total real world income is less than what it really is. The pension benefit letter/certificate(s) you provide will be adequate proof for BoI although they may still ask to see one or two years of tax returns to add additional documentation proof of your income (i.e., helps confirm the pension docs are legitimate) ....AND those past income tax return amount(s) may show less than the current pension benefit letter/certificates since BoI fully releases many pensions typical increase annually and tax returns are in the past. If you have a pension(s) that is partially/totally non-taxable/non-reportable on a tax return include a one page memo that summarizes/explains your pension(s) because pension incomes are not always cut

Plenty of DC Fast Chargers on major routes, in and around most towns, etc., you just have to use apps to know where they are located otherwise you may never notice them. More and more appearing at a nearby location like maybe at PTT or Bangchak fuel station, mall, etc., everyday. See the chart below...look under the DC columns.

https://autolifethailand.tv/top10-most-popular-motor-expo-2023/ December 13, 2023 Top 10 most popular cars at Motor Expo 2023: ChangAn Deepal S07 is the hottest. Top 20 most popular cars at Motor Expo 2023 100% electric cars from Chinese brands occupy the position of ChangAn Deepal S07, followed by Aion Y Plus with reduced prices. and 3rd place Honda HR-V followed by BYD Dolphin – Honda City Ranked from numbers obtained from calculations of the program Buy a Car...Win a Car by the organizer of Motor Expo 2023, International Media Company Limited. No. 1 ChangAn Deepal S07 8.5% No. 2 GAC Aion Y Plus 6.5% 3rd place Honda HR-V 5.9% No. 4 BYD Dolphin 3.7% No. 5 Honda City 3.7% No. 6 Toyota Yaris Cross 3.7% 7th place NETA V 3.4% No. 8 Ford Everest 3.3% No. 9 Ford Ranger 3.0% No. 10 Honda Civic 2.5% No. 11 Nissan Kicks 2.4% 12th place BYD Atto 3 2.4% No. 13 Honda CR-V 2.1% Number 14 GWM ORA 07 2.0% No. 15 Toyota Corolla Cross 1.7% No. 16 BYD Seal 1.7% No. 17 Isuzu MU-X 1.6% No. 18 GWM ORA Good Cat 1.6% No. 19 Toyota Yaris ATIV 1.4% No. 20 MG 4 1.3%

https://autolifethailand.tv/top10-most-popular-motor-expo-2023/ December 13, 2023 Top 10 most popular cars at Motor Expo 2023: ChangAn Deepal S07 is the hottest. Top 20 most popular cars at Motor Expo 2023 100% electric cars from Chinese brands occupy the position of ChangAn Deepal S07, followed by Aion Y Plus with reduced prices. and 3rd place Honda HR-V followed by BYD Dolphin – Honda City Ranked from numbers obtained from calculations of the program Buy a Car...Win a Car by the organizer of Motor Expo 2023, International Media Company Limited. No. 1 ChangAn Deepal S07 8.5% No. 2 GAC Aion Y Plus 6.5% 3rd place Honda HR-V 5.9% No. 4 BYD Dolphin 3.7% No. 5 Honda City 3.7% No. 6 Toyota Yaris Cross 3.7% 7th place NETA V 3.4% No. 8 Ford Everest 3.3% No. 9 Ford Ranger 3.0% No. 10 Honda Civic 2.5% No. 11 Nissan Kicks 2.4% 12th place BYD Atto 3 2.4% No. 13 Honda CR-V 2.1% Number 14 GWM ORA 07 2.0% No. 15 Toyota Corolla Cross 1.7% No. 16 BYD Seal 1.7% No. 17 Isuzu MU-X 1.6% No. 18 GWM ORA Good Cat 1.6% No. 19 Toyota Yaris ATIV 1.4% No. 20 MG 4 1.3%

Chinese EV manufacturers (which dominate in Thailand) are kicking the butt of EU and US EV manufacturers. EU/US EV manufacturers are having a hard time in producing competitively priced EV that customers want to buy. Makes it less desirable for EU/US customers to transition to EV; instead, just stay with ICEV. Can't really blame EU/US vehicle buyers as a whole in not aggressively jumping on the EV bandwagon. The full article at the weblink below...some partial quotes are included below. EU/US EV manufacturers just don't have their act together when it comes to making EVs (with the exception of Tesla). https://aseannow.com/topic/1246109-ice-vs-ev-the-debate-thread/page/41/#comment-18549932

You gotta use an old fashion ink pin....it's not fillable with a computer. As mentioned BoI provided.

Doubtful there is a link to any immigration webpage with the TM95 as supposedly they don't want people mistakenly trying to use it to do 90 day reporting (requires TM7) or SMART visa people using it for their annual reporting which requires a TM91 form. Don't know why BoI has posted the TM95 on the BOI LTR website yet. BOI emailed me below blank form in August. TM.95 blank.pdf

Below is the tally from the Motor Expo website...over 53K vehicles booked/reserved. Electric Vehicles and Chinese automakers like BYD had an outstanding showing. Of course many of 53K bookings (reservations) will require financing which may or may not be approved for the buyer(s). https://www.motorexpo.co.th/exhibitors/profile/2355

Some updated of bookings at the recent Moto Expo along with estimated percentage (approx 44%) that were EVs. Thanks to @Andrew Dwyer and @KhunLA.

Gosh, I love my 2009 Fortuner (still using it as my secondary vehicle) and would have bought a 2023/24 Fortuner if they had an EV version; but they don't. So, I bought a 2023 BYD Atto 3 EV....been driving it for six weeks now and love it. As JBChiangRai said Toyota and Honda as legacy automakers must be shi%%ing themselves in how well EV automakers (mostly Chinese) are doing. While Toyota and Honda with their myriad of ICE vehicles came in #1 and #2 in "bookings" at the recent Moto Expo 30 Nov -11 Dec, BYD came in a strong 3rd followed by other Chinese manufacturers with a lot of EV models. Moto Expo Booking 30 Nov - 11 Dec 2023

Motor Expo tally/bookings "thru 10 Dec." The Expo only has one more day of bookings to tally-up which is today/11 Dec as the Expo ends tonight at 10pm. Appears Toyota with its myriad of ICE models will definitely come out on top and I'm still thinking Honda with its myriad of ICE models may take over 2nd place from BYD in the final day...time will tell. Tally Thru 10 Dec (Final Expo Day 11 Dec)

Motor Expo tally/bookings thru 9 Dec. The Expo has two more days of bookings to tally-up....today/10 Dec and tomorrow/11 Dec. Appears Toyota with its myriad of ICE models will come out on top and I'm thinking Honda with its myriad of ICE models may take over 2nd place in the final two days...time will tell. BYD with its BEV's (Dolphin, Atto, and Seal) will surely take 2nd or 3rd place....as of now they are in 2nd place. And look how well the other Chinese manufacturers are doing. https://www.motorexpo.co.th/exhibitors/profile/2355

The MG power used/kilometers driven display is definitely more detailed than the BYD Atto display (expect the Seal and Dolphin display is basically same-same the Atto). Question: in lower left hand corner of your display were it displays Sport, Normal, Eco Km does that represent "projected" (guessomter) from a current 100% charge OR does it represent kilometers since owning the car? That is, current day projected or purely historical.

And just some additional crossfeed on the range estimation when the range estimation is set to Standard or Dynamic. I charged my Atto 60KWH battery to 100% last night after my Sunday runabout driving and this morning it reflects a 480Km range in Standard (i.e., the advertised NEDC range and probably hard-coded into the EV's computer for 100% charge....I've never seen it reflect anything else at 100% charge--always 480Km) and 497km in Dynamic (sometimes 493, 495, even a 503Km once)...but today it's showing 497Km...a 17Km difference. Now as I drive/deplete my charge this 17Km difference range estimation between Standard and Dynamic will become less and less.... and as you approach zero charge it will get down to at least only a 1Km difference like pictured in my post from the other day when I depleted the battery down to 2%. I expect if I had went to 1% charge there would have been zero difference between the Standard and Dynamic range estimation. Now, the Dynamic range estimation I've been talking has been based on "my" driving....it will probably be different for other folks as everyone drives differently, drives in different locations, etc. But if a person was going to rely on estimated range remaining because they wanted to drive the EV to almost no charge remaining before recharging, well, whether you use the Standard or Dynamic range estimation setting I expect both are going to be pretty close to each other when getting below 10% charge left and to play it safe a person should go with whichever range estimation gives the fewest remaining kilometers. However, for me I will only let the charge drop to 10% or below if I had no other choice OR I'm doing the once every 3 to 6 months recommendation by BYD.

I can't say if it's really more beneficial to switch to AC charging after 80% vs using DC Fast Charge all the way to 100%. A fast charge rate is supposedly less friendly than a slow charge rate for the "long term life" (i.e., years) of a battery. Now how much constant fast charging may actually decrease the life of a battery is something various reports/studies have not been consistent on....some reports/studies have shown significant impact and other reports/studies little to no impact. But most of these reports/studies have been done on lithium "NCA" type batteries where it's generally recommended not charging to 100% frequently (just to 80%) vs the lithium LFP type batteries (like in BYD EVs and some others) where charging to 100% frequently is fine...even recommended by the manufacturer. Take another look at my earlier post (partially quoted below) as I noted the following early in that post. Additionally, the great bulk of kilometers on this particular trip was highway speed driving at around 90-100KMH with 4 "healthy (fat)" adults in the car. I probably got around 450Km on this particular trip. However, but, I am getting the advertised NEDC range of 480Km (420Km WLTP) since I've had the car for the last 7 weeks/2,553Km. See below snapshot from my EV showing 12.4KHW used per 100Km as of this morning. With my Atto extended range battery of 60KWH below calculates out to a real world range of 484Km range in my particular case....everyone's case will vary depending on the style/type of driving. All of my driving so far has been in ECO mode, light-footed, highway and around town driving with A/C always on. I've kept it in ECO mode since having the car and thru the recommend break-in period of the first 2,000Km....starting this week I may go wild-and-crazy by switching to Normal, or even Sport, mode.

A "three" phase 100A service has three times the capacity of a "one/single" phase service. In a three phase system you basically have three single phase live wires coming into your residence along with one neutral wire. Since each of these three phases are 120 degrees out of sync with each other which results in a cancellation of current effect on the "neutral" line that means the one each neutral line is all that needed to support all three live lines. Now of course the main circuit box and the wires going to all the various outlets in your residence needs to be fairly evenly split among the three live wires/phases. If you have any three phase devices like a three phase motor, three phase charger, etc., well, all three live wires and the neutral hook-up to that device. A three phase meter will usually just show "3 times" 100A, 3 times 45A, etc., like below 3 phase 100A meter. And if you happen to have 3 phase service to your residence and decide you want to get a 11KW or 22KW wall charger to charge your EV faster than with a single phase 7KW wall charger, well, DO NOT waste your time unless your EV onboard rectifier is a 3 phase rectifier. Whether a manufacturer puts a single or three phase onboard rectifier in your EV depends on the country it's being sold in/manufactured for. Some countries are primarily 3 phase service and some primarily single phase service. Unless your EV has 3 phase charging capability (i.e., just has single phase charging capability) if you hook a 3 phase 11KW charger to the EV the EV will only charge at around 3.6KW...and if you hook a 3 phase 22KW charger to the EV the EV will only charge at around 6.3KW (no more than if using a single phase 7KW charger).

On electric meters when you see a number like 5 (15), 5 (100), 15 (35), 30 (100), etc., the number within parenthesis represents the maximum amperage that meter can handle/accurately measure and an electric company will match the service going to your residence with the proper sized meter. The first number which is not in parenthesis is called the basic/calibration amperage which will be in the general ballpark of what a typical residence might normally pull amperage-wise which would typically be one-third or less of the max amps. And for calibration checks a key calibration point is approx one-third of full range. The two numbers printed on an electric meter can vary greater depending on design, quality, specs required by the electric company, etc. Like a residence with a single phase 100A service here in Thailand would usually have a 30 (100) meter installed but it could very well be a 5 (100) meter...all depends on the electric company. A 5 (100) meter will be a higher quality/more sensitive meter than a 30 (100) meter....both are rated for 100A service And although they would probably be pulling less than 10A without any high current devices running (like air cons) when they do turn on one or two larger air cons they could approach around 20-25A....or maybe turn on an electric water heater or clothes drier then the current is going to probably be up around 35A which is about one third of the 100A max service.

Regarding charging of of your EV, I have an Atto 3 and its manual recommends a full charge (i.e., up to 100%) from a low SOC (<10%) every three to six months. I expect this helps with balancing the battery (maybe helps the Battery Management System (BMS) possibly accomplish "bottom-balancing" which can only occur at a low SOC...or maybe just to recalibrate the BMS to more accurately display the percent of charge like how most laptops recommend charging from a very low SOC periodically to recalibrate the battery charge percentage indicator. I'm pretty sure that the Atto primarily uses "top-end" balancing which balances the battery at a high state of charge. I've had the Atto about 6 weeks now and have around 2,200Km on it. Although I haven't had the car for 3 to 6 months yet I wanted to accomplish below recommendation for a couple of reasons: - Curiosity as to what might be displayed when reaching 10% and below SOC - See if the percent of charge remaining and remaining kilometers on the range guessometer stay fairly linear....or might it suddenly drop from say 9% to 5% versus dropping from 9 to 5% in a linear manner (I was concerned about this based on a few youtubes I've seen for various EVs) - I just wanted to see what happens when getting down to 10% and less. I've included a few pics below to help explain what happened. Note: Ignore the Trip Meter kilometer readings as they do "not" represent the actually range I got on the trip since I had did an interim charge of 15% or so and forgot to reset the trip meter to zero. Snapshot from the manual Pic 1: Here's what my display showed while driving along and I hit 10% SOC. A battery warning image with the word's "Please recharge" appeared. A 55km remaining range shown. Now a few pics as I drop below 10%...I did not take a pic of every 1 percent drop....but the drop was pretty linear kilometers-wise which is a good thing. At 7% At 5% At 3% At 2%...and if I remember right I took this pic just a moment after it reached 2% vs a kilometer or more later. So, at 2% I still had 12km of juice left "with the Range Mode set to Standard, repeat, with the Range Mode set to Standard. When switching to Dynamic mode it showed a little more range left. 2% remaining when set to Dynamic Mode...it shows 13Km left where the Standard Mode showed 12Km I have found that the Dynamic Mode showers a little high range remaining throughout the charge percentage such as up to 15km higher in the 90-100% ballpark but as the charge percentage decreases the Standard and Dynamic Ranges get closer and closer to indicating the same...like at 2% remaining the Dynamic says 13Km left while Standard says 12Km left. OK...I'm now home....I'm not going to drive it down to 1% or even a crazier 0% just to see what happens. I plug in my 7KW wallcharger and below is what displays. It's around 6pm in the evening...I just leave the charger plugged in an go to bed because charging will not complete until around 3am next morning. The charging starts of at 6.0KW for a few minutes, then climbs to 6.1KW, and then to 6.2KW where it remaining for the bulk of the charge cycle based on my experience...but it will reach 6.3KW near the end of the charge cycle (say in the 80 to 100% range)...and even hit 6.4KW for a few seconds just before completing the charge cycle/getting to 100%/charge cutting off. OK...it's now morning....charging complete. Below is what shown on Standard and Dynamic Modes Standard Mode...480Km range with is the advertised NEDC 480Km range. Dynamic Mode....shows 495Km range fully charge...I have seen it as high as 503Km but usually it 495Km when at 100% charge. Dynamic range is based on the "individual's" driving habits....light footed, heavy footed, air con, no air con, etc. For me the air is "always" on and I probably a light footed driver. Just FYI. My curiosity satisfied...and I know when I drop below 10% charge what's going to happen in that I still have around 50 to 55Km left to find a charger. Cheers.

The granny charger will draw approx 10A. If you have it plugged into a circuit, say a 16A/20A circuit (a typical wall outlet) with 16A/20A breaker, and say that circuit is already drawing say 10A because it's powering an air conditioner on the circuit or just some other piece(s) of electrical equipment then make sure you are simply not overloading the circuit when the granny charger is plugged in. "I know" you said the breaker doesn't trip until a few minutes after unplugging the charger which would lower the amperage draw on the circuit which should prevent the breaker from wanting to trip but sometimes electrical components can act in the strangest ways....even opposite to the way the should act especially if they are defective, going bad, or when interacting with some other electrical device on the circuit. And if the breaker is a RCBO type then than can throw even more "strangeness" is what might happen. So, you might want to check as to what other electrical devices are on the circuit (if any) all the time and if their amps draw when combined with the approx 10A draw of the granny charger is taking that circuit/breaker to it's limit which could cause that breaker to trip "and even do strange things of tripping after the amps draw has been lowered below the tripping point." And like like JBChiangRai said it may just be a defective breaker. Breakers in the 20A ball park are dirt cheap....you could replace it to be sure, but you really should know how much the circuit/breaker is carrying with the granny charger plugged in as even with a new breaker you don't want to be running a circuit at it's max all the time as it will heat up....and that breaker could get very war if the circuit is running at or above it's max. approx

Here's another view of Day 5 reservations.