drtreelove

Not all have come away happy. We now go to a Honda dealer. Honda Paradise (Hwy 1001 and 121) has saved us time and money by getting it right the first time. Ask for Jack, English speaking service manager. For our Toyota, we go to Saha Panich on the 108/Chotana Rd and ask for Surot. He solved an electrical 'limp mode' condition in minutes that others could not in days and weeks, just by knowing Toyota wiring specifics, like a factory trained technician should.

Yes, 'let the grass grow taller' is consistent with the OLC (organic land care) practices. The only time I use chemical fertilizer any more is sometimes for lawn grass where I want maximum green and lush. But only a lite application every six to eight weeks, and I prefer Ammonium sulfate 21-0-0. But heads up, I notice that with high salts chemical fertilzer, surrounding shrubs and trees with root zones extending into the lawn, will start to get more pest damage. As we know now, high NPK chemical fertilization causes severe imbalances and can be an arthropod (insect and mite) pest magnet.

This is an intelligent comment in my opinion. Embrace the clover and the diversity, would be my preference too. But I do understand the desire for uniform healthy turf grass and I have succesfully managed yaa malaysia (broadleaf carpet grass) and yaa nuan noi to dominate over weeds without herbicide. Its a year-long process or more, but to do this I use organic lawn care methods. (good soil preparation, good water management, mow weekly during growing season, mow high at 3 inches (don't scalp with a krueng tat yaa), mow without catcher to return clipping to the soil (works best with yaa Malaysia, yaa nuan noi is too dense and clippings will sit on top), aerate annually and input high quality compost and COF - complete organic fertilizer, hand pull or dig weeds regularly, before they go to seed). Selective herbicide will kill broadleaf weeds in grass. Yaa Malaysia is sensitive to broadleaf herbicide damage, so only use herbicide with the Zoysia. The turf-specific herbicides available in the US, like SpeedZone, Weed-B-Gone and others have 2,4-D and dicamba as primary active ingredients. I have not seen those here in Thailand, but I haven't really looked. See this TV discussion for a recommendation from a member, but also note my caution about using broadleaf weed killers in proximity to trees. I have had many cases where tree roots have taken up the broadleaf herbicide and caused extreme leaf distortion, discoloration , leaf drop and even branch die-back. If your 'clover' is extensive, with the use of herbicide you will go through a long transition period with ugly patches of dead clover. The grass dominance will depend on your diligence and good management that favors it and at what season you start the treatment program (grass doesn't grow as vigorously during the cooler months). The best method would be to completely remove the existing turf and clover growth, prepare the soil to a 6" depth with compost and COF roto-tilled in, then overlay new sod. Then the weed management will be limited to spot pulling of new weeds and cultivation of your new turf grass to dominate.

You can have my shelved neem, wood vinegar and lemongrass, I don't need them any more. I've found that the secret to effective pest control starts with soil fertility, and essentially involves a comprehensive, preventive IPM (Integrative Pest Management) program. For beetle identification post photos, although I don't think that the ID is as important as trying to understand why any pest is there in the first place. Which will likely be primarily low nutrient density from inadequate soil fertility. Trying to control an advanced pest infestation with bio-pesticides, as a substitute for contact chemcial insecticide is usually futile. An organic program requires forethought, anticipation of seasonal pest cycles, and early intervention or preferably preventive management. That said, if you're stuck with an advanced infestation, first consider if the damage is excessive and intolerable and is affecting the actual fruit/veggie product, or if the problem is primarily cosmetic; are the squash and melons negatively affected or only a relatively small percentage of the foliage? A large percentage of foliar loss of course can mean reduced capacity for photosynthesis of sugars and metabolites that are required for the squash and melons to mature and become tasty and healthy. My choice for a knockdown spray for beetle pests would be a pyrethrum concentrate (pyrethrins, the chrysanthemum flower extract, which is biodegradable in 12 to 24 hours and considered organic program compatible. Not to be confused with the synthetic chemical version, pyrethroids, like permethrin and cypermethrin.) But I haven't purchased or looked for pyrethrins in Thailand for over 12 years so I don't know where to get it now, and its not widely understood or available. In the US I use Pyganic or Evergreen Pyrethrum Concentrate, which are wildly popular and on the shelf at most organic and cannabis growers supply shops. Azadirachtin concentrate/neem seed oil extract, wood vinegar and lemongrass and companion planting etc are best used for a preventive program when pest pressure is anticipated or in early onset. A combination may have some knockdown effect, but the pyrethrins is better if you want to see the bugs fall off the plant immediately after spraying. In California I spray oak moth caterpillars that defoliate native oak trees, and the worms fall out of the tree before I can get out of the way.

Thai 888 Law, Pattaya/Jomtien.

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If you were me, you would look to what inspires you to make positive changes, and works for you to improve your health, physical, psycological and spriritual well being, and not try to sell the idea to others that MDs and modern science are the only source of good information, and that DCs, naturopaths, and traditional medicine are invalid. As a lifelong student and practitioner of natural health and healing, necessitated by an intensly athletic profession and sports, I have drawn as much help from TCM, Aurveda, chiropractic, polarity and massage practitioners as I have from the MDs and orthopedic surgeons who have kept me going. In my opinion, "science based" is deeply flawed. I've been around long enough to have seen many scientific-research-based beliefs and practices disproved by the next set of scientists with their new research that comes along. My father was a horticulturist and my mother a nurse practitioner/nutritionist. The science of their day that I apprenticed in has long been greatly modified and replaced by newer information. I would be a fool to assume that all the current popular science of horticulture and health care will endure. Eric Berg and the others mentioned, from my experience are not deserving of the negativity that you present. I find that they are enthusiastically sharing information and experiences that they have gained from their practices and patient's experiences, as well as their own experience. What they are presenting is a program, with certain components, that if put together in real life practice, can help certain people who are attracted to the information, with certain health and lifestyle issues. The products they offer are not the focus, they are offered as adjuvants within the comprehensive program.

Dr Eric Berg is an awesome nutritionist, but he does not advocate for a plant based diet. That may be your preference, not mine. I followed his amazingly revelationary videos, as well as Dr Ken Berry ("Normal Human Diet", and "Lies Your Doctor Told You" author), and Dr Sten Eckberg (athlete and MD) and some others, all along the same lines with Ketogenic diet, no sugar, no seed oils, no alcohol, low carb, no between meal snacking, Intermittent fasting, exercise (not necessarily HIIT). Weight loss wasn't a big issue for me, but in the first month I dropped 5 kilos without really trying. What was a big issue was recovering from about 4 years of pain and relative inactivity and bilateral hip replacement surgeries, with all the pain meds and anti-biotics that go along with it. I've been able to drop all prescription meds and NSAIDs, reverse all acute and chronic conditions, high BP, GERD, BPH. No Covid, colds or flu. After almost a year into a modified keto plan, at 75 I'm sleeping good, getting up to pee only once at night instead of 4 or 5 times. I'm happy to be back out off-road mountain biking, swimming laps and lite weight training. No more joint inflamation even with metal knees and hips. I've still got a ways to go, but I feel like I'm getting younger not older.

Since we're on the subject: I was wrong, they do call it a "license". Electrical Saw Act B.E. 2545.pdf (thailawforum.com) Electrical is a bad translation, it should be "Power Saw Act". This was ameneded in about 2009 when the under 12" saws were allowed on the market. Its good to have a full range of tools for the job at hand; hand saws, loppers, pole saw, pole pruner, etc.

You're right, thats way too cheap for a chain loop, maybe a price per drive link. Saw chain is not necessarily universal. Its best to get it fitted to your bar and sprocket. But with the 11.5" chain loops being sold online you may get lucky on the fit. There is the gauge/thickness of the drive links that have to fit properly into the track of the bar. (Usually 0.050") Then there is the pitch, the distance between rivets and drive links, which has to do with how the drive links fit the sprocket. (Thats the 3/8" that you see in the ads, but 0.325" pitch is also common and would be a lighter, faster chain. ) A mismatch with either of these will be unworkable. And then there are different cutter designs, semi-chisel, anti-kickback, etc, which have more to do with performance. The drivelinks are stamped with a model number on better sawchain brands like Stihl or Oregon. See www.planopower.com, how to determine size of replacement saw chain.

This is a very good recommendation. Yes, chance of injury is not to be taken lightly. For the best performance and durability in a curved pruning handsaw, choose one with a Japanese tri-cut tooth design and best quality steel that you can find. Topman brand at HomePro is pretty good.

The biggest complaint, from a professional, would be the gutless 5000 rpm, when you're used to a screaming 14,000 rpm Husky with no batteries to charge and change

The new generation battery saws are awesome, especially Husqvarna, I haven't shopped for them in Thailand; I don't know whats available. Its not a licensed that's needed for larger chainsaws, it a requirement to register with local RFD forestry office. It's a measure to regulate illegal logging. Not so much about the saw as it is about what you are doing with it. Under 12" do not require registration, but stay away from high profile, high volume tree removals that look like logging. My advice is not to buy from a big box store, most of them don't offer service. In Chiang Mai the two places that I've bought chainsaws (and bladed brush cutters, pumps and sprayers, mowers, and other power equipment) are Sriyont in Wat Ket, on the road along the east side of the river, and Montree the big yellow building at the corner of the SuperHwy and Chotana rd at Kwang Sing interesction. If you haven't used a chainsaw before, there is a learning process for safety and efficient operation, and for maintenance. If you don't know how to keep it out of the dirt and rocks, your saw will become instantly useless. If you don't know how to file the cutters and depth gauges (rakers) yourself then you are S.O.L. (if you're American you know what that means). I'm available for a free chainsaw training session. I have a experienced local guy for you to hire if you are interested. He's super efficient and will get a lot done in a day; you can concentrate on the cleanup. He's a foreman, climber, pruning expert for a large orchard operation in Mae Jo University area. I used to hire him on his days off, for work on our mature mango and lamyai orchards, and as a climber on a tree crew I had going a few years ago. (He still runs the 12" Makita gas chainsaw that I gave him about 12 years ago.

I think this is a significant and very valid point about 'nutrient density' in the food we eat. "Just eating an averaged balanced diet, getting sunlight on your skin, is all you need to do." This is a beautiful fantasy, but as a soil analyst having evaluated soil tests from agricultural soils in Chiang Mai as well as other regions of Thailand, I can verify that we have some of the most degraded ag soils that I've seen, including in most "organic" farms. Unfortunately, organic grower certification and food product labeling does not require a minimum soil organic matter content, healthy soil biology populations, adequate and balanced soil mineral integrity, or plant sap analysis for assessing nutrient density, but only avoidance of chemical fertilizers and pesticides. Which of course is not nearly enough to ensure food quality.

Yes on the vermicompost, it has some very good properties. You can search and read all about it. It's not the same as "coconut compost" but you can use both when making your own container soil blend. The only problem with anything labeled as "compost", is that it may not really be composted (decomposed/digested by soil micro-organisms, and may be composed of raw organic matter. This would be okay for mulch (soil surface covering), but not for a potting soil/container planting mix. As for a fertilizer product, the Gaia Green 4-4-4 from Canada looks good as a COF. It has some excellent ingredients: Feather meal, alfalfa meal, bone meal, blood meal, natural phosphate rock Mineral Phosphate Potassium sulfate, insect slag, basalt dust, humic acid, gypsum, seaweed, oyster shell, green sand. GAIA GREEN All Purpose is approved for use in organic agriculture by Ecocert Canada (according to the General Principles of the Canadian Organic Production System). Avoid the 16-16-16 or any high-salt-index chemical fertilizer. Yes it's cheap, and you get what you pay for. It's imbalanced and only provides certain mineral nutrients, at the expense of complete plant nutrition and high nutrient density food production, and reduces resistance to pests and diseases. High NPK chemical fertilizers are too harsh and are detrimental to the beneficial soil microbiome, dessicates roots, and creates conditions for a plant to become a pest magnet.

Welcome to the Farming in Thailand forum! There are many factors to consider and a lot to learn, but in my experience soil preparation is the most important starting point. I like the Grow Biointensive method (formerly called Biodynamic-French Intensive method) pioneered by Alan Chadwick, further developed and popularized worldwide by John Jeavons and his excellent manual: How to Grow More Vegetables: Than You Ever Thought Possible on Less Land Than You Can Imagine: Jeavons, John: 9780898157673: Amazon.com: Books (I worked at the research garden in Palo Alto California in 1975 and have used the method since then in the US and Thailand.) Biointensive Gardening - How To Grow a Biointensive Garden (gardeningknowhow.com) The first step in my opinion would be to order a 20 kilo sack or two of Vermicompost from: Organic Fertilizer Worm Winner Vermicompost from Thailand (biosurgethailand.com) Mix that up to 50:50 with your native soil along with 1 kilo of a COF (complete organic fertilizer) like the 4-4-4 from Best Garden State, or if they have smaller packaging, the bokashi from Organic Totto. (I've only ordered the 25 kilo sacks) (bokashi is predigested by microbial activity and therefore is less harsh chemistry and more readily available for plants). Search for info on germinating your seeds and planting them out in your prepared soil. Mulching and water management are other important factors to consider. Bokashi fertilizer.docx

With only 0.2 % THC legalized there will be a lot of puffin going on trying to get high. We thought the gross polluter buses, tuktuks and slash-and-burn forestry was bad. No wonder they've declared the smoke as illegal and encouraged neighbors to report it. It'll be like living next door to Cheech and Chong.

In my opinion, there is not much difference in best managment practices and fertilizer requirements for herbs, and other herbacious plants, vegetables and flowers. So I don't think you need to be looking for specific herb fertilizer. There are many factors to consider in creating best growing condtions and management for healty plants , sunlight exposure, containers, raised beds or in-the-ground, and especially water management, as well as fertilizer and other issues. There are die-hard advocates for the predominant old-school chemcial fertilizers, but I prefer organic and soil-food-web based methods and materials. There have been many discussions on this forum and the Farming in Thailand forum on fertilzers. Here's a recent one:

You can thin the fruit where they are tightly clustered and that may help. But there is more to it than that. Plant health and fruit development has everything do with soil fertility and water management. Plants in pots are challenged due to limited soil volume and restricted root expansion, deficiencies in potting soil, and sometimes either poor drainage and root rot, or the opposite, rapid drainage, poor moisture retention and leaching of nutrients. If containerized plants are not re-potted every couple of years, into a slightly larger container with new soil mix, they can become root-bound and unable to take up water and nutrients adequately. At the minimum, fertilize with slow release COF (complete organic fertilizer) and maybe buy a soil moisture meter to take the guess-work out of watering, not too much or too little.

This is a good suggestion. Insecticidal soap can be a useful, organic-program-compatible pesticide, but is not appropriate for all pest and disease conditions. And it will not correct the underlying factors that weaken the plant and make it susceptible to the pest or disease. Don't use just any soap or detergent to make the insecticical soap solution, as some ingredients are phyto-toxic. The vinegar version may be useful for the powdery mildew if that's what it is. Vinegar should be used according to directions only, because concentrated solutions are toxic to plant foliage. Homemade Insecticidal Soap Recipe The simplest insecticidal soap is nothing more than a 2% soap solution. To make this at home, you will need: Sprayer: Any clean spray bottle or garden sprayer will work fine for spraying insecticidal soap. Make sure the sprayer or bottle hasn’t been used for herbicides. Pure Soap: Use a pure liquid soap, such as Castile, or all-natural soap. The active ingredient in insecticidal soap comes from the fatty acids in animal fat or vegetable oil, so it’s important to use the real thing. Don’t use detergents (which aren’t actually soaps), dish soaps, or any products with degreasers, skin moisturizers, or synthetic chemicals. Dr. Bronner’s Pure Castile Soap is usually pretty easy to find in stores, or check your local natural-foods store for other options. Pure Water: Tap water is fine for making insecticidal soap. If you have hard water, you may want to use bottled water to prevent soap scum from building up on your plants. To make homemade 2% insecticidal soap, mix together: 5 tablespoons soap to 1 gallon of water OR 1 heavy tablespoon soap to 1 quart of water Homemade Insecticidal Soap Recipe Variations Like any other home remedy, there are as many variations on this recipe as there are gardeners! You can also try: Diluted Solution: If the spray causes damage or burns your plant foliage, cut the amount of soap in half and try a 1% solution. This is the concentration usually found in commercial sprays. The lighter solution might be less effective but is gentler on plants. Cooking Oil: To help the solution stick a little longer, add two tablespoons of light cooking oil (such as corn, canola, olive, or safflower) per gallon of water to the mix. Vinegar: To make a spray that also targets powdery mildew, add a teaspoon of cider vinegar per gallon of water to the mix. Garlic or Pepper: To help repel chewing insects, add a teaspoon of ground red pepper and/or garlic per gallon of water to the mix. Bar Soap: For a less-exact recipe, drop a bar of pure soap (such as organic bar soap or Ivory) into a gallon of water and leave it overnight. Remove the bar and shake well before spraying.

Yes the shade is a likely factor. Some plants are more tolerant of shady conditions than others. So if your plant is sun-loving, and its health and resistance to disease depends on full sunlight and photosynthesis, you may be better off replacing it with a shade tolerant species, or installing artificial lighting. A broad spectrum fungicide may provide temporary control of a fungal infection, but will not correct the contributing factors that make the plant susceptible to the disease, so the disease will return, or another disease or pest will attack a weakened plant. There are organisms that can cause root damage, but ants are not likely. Ants may be present, due to favorable habitat for their nesting and nearby food sources, but they will not normally be feeding on the plant tissues. Termites could be an exception, but they feed primarily on wood that is dead already. Root-rot from soil-borne pathogens (fungi and water-molds) can originate from the original growers practices and potting soil, or from your own management, over-watering or high Nitrogen fertilization. You could re-pot the plant, with a slightly larger pot and better potting soil. And buy a soil moisture meter to take the guess work out of when and how much to water. But of course this won't correct the shady environment factor.

Yes, but not necessarily so with best management practices. Susceptibility is there partially due to genetics; strains are developed for certain desirable traits and disease resistance is not always a priority. Resistance to pests and diseases can be enhanced with good soil fertility and water management.

Why Are My Eggplants Turning Yellow? – Bountiful Gardener

From the description, it sounds like "powdery mildew". But photos, plant ID, description of growing conditions and management would help with remote diagnosis and treatment recommendations. An advanced disease condition is difficult to cure, but suppression and preventive management may help to minimize the damage and prevent future infections. Its best to focus on improvement of growing condtions, soil and water management that builds natural resistance to disease. I would avoid high NPK chemical fertilizer products like Phostrogen liquid plant food and go with a slow release complete organic fertilzer like Organic Totto, and/or worm castings (vermicompost). Instead of chemical fungicide, I would use Potassium bicarbonate, or a biological fungicide like Trichoderma harzianum or Bacillus subtilis. POTASSIUM BICARBONATE(FOOD GRADE) for pH buffer and use as Organic fungicide | Lazada PH Powdery Mildew: Symptoms, Treatment and Control | Planet Natural

Also consider fish fertilizer if you can find a good quality product.