Growing Potatoes/manfalang

[macb]

Chownah:

Have you tried growing potatoes?

I got some land next to me I might plough as the fill is so hard and Try Chilli and potaotes what you think I have read the Chilli/Phrik Topic

[chownah]

I haven't tried them because I never had much luck with them back where I came from even though I tried to everything the right way....don't know why it doesn't work for me. They can be raised here quite successfully though because my wife has incorporated them into a local dish and they are excellent. She gets them at the market. I also ate some potato salad made by a foreigner who raised his own potatoes and it was excellent too...bud sadly I don't have contact information for him....if I should run into him again I'll be sure to ask him for details.

Chownah

[texpatriate]

Because of the amount of rainfall I'd suggest using raised beds.

-texpatriate

[macb]

Thanks for that guys I used to grow all my own veg in UK including spuds, I have water supply on my land but the fill is so hard out of he rainy season, raised beds good idea.

Also got sand bricks left over from builders work and may build small big unit give that ago I mean small to to give it a go for the family

[Issangeorge]

I have not tried to raise potatos yet, but from November to March are climate is quite like the Canadian summer, except for the rainfall, so I would think that with proper irrigation potatos would grow okay, and they sell for a good price. Issangeorge.

[macan]

If you are only growing for yourself then you could use buckets or bins with compost/sand mixture that you keep topping up as the crop grows. That way you can avoid any nasty microbes that may be lurking in the local soil ready to attack any low-resistance, exotic species. You also have better control of the soil moisture and can move them into shelter if the poor tatties are getting too wet or too much harsh sunlight.

You might even get away with some early varieties from the UK that would be suitable for the daylength here (though not sure what they would make of the heat), otherwise look for tropical varieties.

[macb]

Well last night the wife and I planted 2 potatoes and 4 onions in a big black tub:

Soil manure and sand, so lets see how we get on

[manaM]

Well last night the wife and I planted 2 potatoes and 4 onions in a big black tub:

Soil manure and sand, so lets see how we get on

I tried it several times in our small Isaan-garden, using small spuds brought from Europe.

They come out and grow quickly, takes about 8-12 weeks before they are over a meter high,

but when digging for harvesting the crop:

Surprise, the 5-6 potatoes per plant where smaller than the seeded one, and even smaller than the green fruits on the stem above the ground...

[OneeyedJohn]

There are hill tribe people here in Chiang Rai ( north, very north) who sell spuds at half the price of the supermarkets, so next time I will ask them how do they do it.

We visited a couple of potato farms in Chiang Mai last year, but couldn't get any helpful advice from them.

Very parochial attitude I felt.

[Khonwan]

I got some seed potatoes from a prof. at Majo Uni, Chiang Mai, 3/4 years ago to try in Nakhon Sawan. Failed! Just too warm, unlike the hills of the north.

[manaM]

I got some seed potatoes from a prof. at Majo Uni, Chiang Mai, 3/4 years ago to try in Nakhon Sawan. Failed! Just too warm, unlike the hills of the north.

2 Years ago I visited the "Loei Winery" in the northern Isaan Loei province,

beside wines, they grow and sell potatoes at reasonable prices,

but the girls at the sales-booth didn't have the slightest clue about the agricultural skills and techniques behind their success

(in our small-town on markets we can buy most of the time potatoes, but the sellers don't know where they come from. Probably from the wholesale market in Korat . But it happened that we had to pay 20-30 Baht for a single bigger size spud.)

[Lickey]

we had some potatoes in the kicthen that started sprouting "eyes" so i cut them up and planted in a raised bed about 4 in deep, {december} 2 weeks later they started to apear, so in the best english tradition, banked them up with 4 more in of soil, again, 2 weeks and they were through, so i left it like this, the shoots outgrew the shallotts the missus put with them, 2 days ago i decided to dig a root up cos the tops were dying off, even with daily watering, cold from the borehole and just before dark, there were 5 little potatoes and all 5 wikk go in an eggcup together, so if anybody can find the secret, please let us all know, nothing like a new potatoe!!!

[soidog2]

we had some potatoes in the kicthen that started sprouting "eyes"

I also planted a couple of sprouting potatoes bought at the local market ( the big white ones ).

I used a perforated large plastic paint bucket, with some loose organic soil mixed with dry tamarind leaves .

Kept it out of direct sun , watered it daily and about six weeks later I had about 10 egg size new potatoes. My daughter enjoyed the home made french fries.

The plant will let you know when ready, it will yellow and droop , new shoots will come up. If you don't pick your potatoes in time they will sprout again.

It's fun

[Lickey]

Soidoq2, our farm has 36 tamarind trees, can buy a good organic mix for 30bht a bag, the builders are now painting new saloon and house, so no shortage of 10gallon plastic containers!! guess what i will be doing tomorrow!!!! if you ever come to Namsom, and see a Beauty Saloon with a chippe give us a look,

Thanks mate, looking forward to getting started!!!

[Tony Clifton]

I was growing a turnip and couldn`t figure out why the stalk and leaves grew bigger while the root remained so small. Ants had nested in the turnip... Have yet to try potatoes.

Edited March 31, 2007 by Tony Clifton

[soidog2]

Soidoq2, our farm has 36 tamarind trees, can buy a good organic mix for 30bht a bag, the builders are now painting new saloon and house, so no shortage of 10gallon plastic containers!! guess what i will be doing tomorrow!!!! if you ever come to Namsom, and see a Beauty Saloon with a chippe give us a look,

Thanks mate, looking forward to getting started!!!

Glad to know you enjoyed the advice, no more than one sprouting potato per container in about 6 -7 “of soil; by the way what province is that in ??

[macb]

Well last night the wife and I planted 2 potatoes and 4 onions in a big black tub:

Soil manure and sand, so lets see how we get on

UP-DATE

Well ther spuds failed the tops grew but not the bottoms however the onions I have split today so lets see how they do

[RamdomChances]

Would planting them under heavy shade help, mabye the tops grow so much due to the extra ammount of sunlight. I'd agree with the planting during "cold" season in pots or raised beds

[ozzydom]

I think the commercial growers here ,plant September and harvest before Xmas

[Lickey]

Soidoq2, our farm has 36 tamarind trees, can buy a good organic mix for 30bht a bag, the builders are now painting new saloon and house, so no shortage of 10gallon plastic containers!! guess what i will be doing tomorrow!!!! if you ever come to Namsom, and see a Beauty Saloon with a chippe give us a look,

Thanks mate, looking forward to getting started!!!

Glad to know you enjoyed the advice, no more than one sprouting potato per container in about 6 -7 "of soil; by the way what province is that in ??

Namsom is in Issan, 100ks NW of Udon Thani, if you have a map its 10 o clock from Udon, been modifying the irrigation on farm so still havent got started yet, but its on the cards!!

[andylee]

I grew some potatoes in Huai Rat, Buriram. I was late planting so heat eventually became a problem and because of that the potatoes were small. But I planted 4 potatoes from Twickets supermarket (they had started sprouting when I bought them) I kept them in wet straw for 2 weeks, then cut and planted them in buffalo excrement, rice field soil and garden centre compost that isnt like compost as I know it. I was pleased with the results, but next year its going to be planting earlier in raised beds next to a wall to give extra shade.

Edited April 8, 2007 by andylee

[ThaiFelix]

I grew some potatoes in Huai Rat, Buriram. I was late planting so heat eventually became a problem and because of that the potatoes were small. But I planted 4 potatoes from Twickets supermarket (they had started sprouting when I bought them) I kept them in wet straw for 2 weeks, then cut and planted them in buffalo excrement, rice field soil and garden centre compost that isnt like compost as I know it. I was pleased with the results, but next year its going to be planting earlier in raised beds next to a wall to give extra shade.

I think you will find a good fertilizer is the secret, apart from the right time of year. High in phosphates if I remember correctly. An NPK mix (N = nitrogen, for leaves. P = phosphates, for stems and roots. K = pottasium, for flowering parts).

I used to grow em at home in old car tyres, but maybe a bit hot here.

[Tornado]

Im also trying to grow a few vegies at the moment, so this might be of some help to you. I googled.

Potatoes require full sun to grow. Because they are aggressively rooting plants, they will produce the best crop when planted in a light, loose, well-drained but moisture retentive loam. Potatoes prefer a slightly acid soil with a pH of 5.8-6.5.

Fortunately, however, potatoes are very adaptable and will usually produce a respectable crop, even when the soil conditions are less than perfect.

Potatoes should be rotated on a 3-year program. This means, you need 3-suitable sites if you want to grow potatoes every year.

Growing Potatoes

Potatoes may be planted as soon as the ground can be worked in the early spring, but you must use good judgment. Potato plants will not begin to grow until the soil temperature has reached 45 degrees F. The soil should be evenly moist, but not wet or soggy. If the soil is water logged when you dig, not only will you risk "caking" the soil, your seed potatoes will probably rot before they even get started. Potatoes can tolerate a light frost, but you should provide some frost-protection for the plants when they are young. This can be a loose covering of straw, or a temporary plastic tent. (Be sure to remove or ventilate the plastic on sunny days!) If you plan to store potatoes through the winter, you can plant a second crop as late as June 15.

Use only certified seed potatoes

Potatoes are susceptible to several serious diseases. Even though the potatoes you saved from the previous year, or the potatoes you see in the supermarket may appear healthy, they should not be used for your seed. Certified seed potatoes are disease free, and have been selected to give you the best results with the highest yields. Certified seed potatoes are available at most quality nurseries and garden centers. There are several different varieties of potatoes to choose from, each with it's own characteristics and qualities. The most popular types are listed here.

Planting potatoes

A week or two before your planned potato planting date, set your seed potatoes somewhere where they will be exposed to some warmth (between 60 and 70 degrees F.) and lots of light. This will induce them to begin sprouting.

A day or two before planting, use a sharp, clean knife to slice the larger seed potatoes into "seeds". Each seed should be approximately 1 1/2-2inches square, and must contain at least 1 or 2 "eyes" or buds. Smaller potatoes may be planted whole. In the next day or so, your seed will form a thick callous over the cuts, which will help to prevent it from rotting once planted.

Potatoes in the Home Garden

Traditionally potatoes are grown in rows. The potato seeds are planted every 15 in., with the rows spaced 2 1/2 to 3 ft. apart.

If space is limited or if you would only like to grow a small crop of potatoes, you may prefer to plant one or two potato mounds. Each 3-4 foot diameter mound can support 6 to 8 potato plants.

With either method, the first step is to cultivate and turn the soil one last time before planting, removing any weeds, rocks or debris. This will loosen the soil and allow the plants to become established more quickly. Your potato plants will benefit from the addition of compost, well composted manure, and other organic matter to the soil. HOWEVER, too much organic material can increase the chances of potato scab. (Potato scab is a bacterial infection which doesn't affect the usability of your potatoes, but it makes them look pretty ugly!) To lessen the likelihood of this, mix the organic matter into the soil below the potato seed, where it will feed the roots, but not contact the newly forming potatoes.

Planting in rows

Dig a shallow trench about 4 inches wide and 6-8 inches deep. The spacing at which you place the seed pieces will determine the harvested potato size. For most household uses, you will want to plant your potato seeds 15 inches apart in this trench. If you'd like a quick crop of "baby" potatoes for soups and stews, you can plant the seeds 4 inches apart, and begin harvesting them as soon as they reach the desired size.

Place the potato seeds into the trench (cut side down) and then cover them with 3-4 inches of soil. (Do not fill the trench in completely!) Depending on the soil temperature, the sprouts will begin to emerge in about 2 weeks. At this time add another 3-4 inches of soil.

Your crop of potatoes will form between the seed piece and the surface of the soil. For this reason, when the stems are about 8 inches high, you once again add enough soil to bring the level half way up the stem of the plant. Another hilling will be needed 2-3 weeks later, at which time you again add soil half way up the stem of the plant. After these initial hillings, it is only necessary to add an inch or two of soil to the hill each week or so, to ensure there is enough soil above the forming potatoes that they don't push out of the hill and get exposed to light. (If the new potatoes are exposed to sunlight while they are developing, they will turn green. This green portion may be toxic!)

This hilling process is necessary to create sufficient space for the potatoes to develop large tubers, and an abundant crop. Don't get carried away with hilling though... If you cover up too much of the foliage, you may end up reducing your final crop yield.

Mound planting

The basic procedure for planting potatoes in mounds is the same as for planting in rows. The difference here is that you can grow your crop in a more confined area, or take advantage of an otherwise unused area of the garden.

Cultivate and loosen the soil where your potato mound will be. Designate the approximate perimeter of your planting circle (3-4 feet diameter). Space 6-8 potato seeds evenly around your circle, and cover with the initial 4 inches of soil. Continue the same procedures as you would for planting in rows.

Potatoes without a garden

If you have no established garden plot, or if there just isn't enough available space within your garden, you can still grow a respectable crop of spuds, and do a little recycling at the same time. Potatoes thrive in the warm environment of a soil filled tire!

Four tires + Two pounds of seed potatoes + Good soil = 20-30 pounds of winter potatoes!

Pick a spot where you can stack your tires which is out of the way and preferably out of sight. Loosen the surface of the soil just enough to allow for drainage, and set your largest tire in place. Fill the inside of the tire casing loosely with good topsoil, and then set 3-4 potato seeds into the soil. (Use sticks or rocks to keep the casing rings spread open.) Add enough soil to the tire "hole" to bring it to the same level as the soil inside the tire.

When the new plants are eight inches tall, add another tire and soil to the stack, as in the first level. Repeat the process for your third, and if desired, fourth tires. As you add tires and soil to the stack, the 8" of the plant stalk is covered with soil. By doing this, the existing stalk essentially reverts to a root status and the plant is forced to grow upward to once again find the sunlight which it needs. (much like if you were to try to eliminate a dandelion by covering it with a scoop of soil) By raising the soil level this way (in 8" increments) the plant is able to continue growing without suffocation, and at the same time you are creating a 24-30" tap root from which many more lateral roots can develop. Each lateral root can then produce additional potatoes (at 3-4 levels rather than the normal single layer). When you water, be sure that the soil is thoroughly moistened all the way to the base of the pile.

The tires act as an insulator and heat "sink" for your potatoes. This added warmth will cause the lateral roots (where the new potatoes form) to multiply more rapidly, thereby giving you more potatoes. When you need fresh potatoes next fall and winter, harvest the crop from the top tire, and remove it from the pile. More potatoes??? Next tire...

P.S..... You can also use this method to grow your own peanuts, but only in two tire stacks!

Watering and care

For the maximum crop, keep your potato vines well watered throughout the summer, but especially during the period when they are in flower, and immediately thereafter. This is the time when the plant is creating the new tubers, and water is critical. Water early in the day so that the foliage has time to dry completely before evening. (Wet foliage can make your plants more susceptible to several potato diseases.) When foliage turns yellow and dies back, discontinue watering to allow the tubers to "mature" for a week or two before harvesting.

Once the vines have passed the critical watering stage while in flower, they will tolerate a certain amount of drought. According to some studies, non-irrigated potatoes are less watery and more healthful. However, potato plants which are not watered regularly will produce a much smaller crop.

The Potato Harvest

Your may begin to harvest your potatoes 2 to 3-weeks after the plants have finished flowering. At this time you will only find small "baby" potatoes if you were to dig up a plant. Potatoes can be harvested any time after this, by gently loosening the soil, reaching under the plant, and removing the largest tubers, leaving the smaller ones to continue growing.

If you want late potatoes for storage, wait 2-3 weeks after the foliage dies back. Carefully begin digging a foot or so outside of the row or mound. Remove the potatoes as you find them. (Be careful not to bruise or cut the tubers with your spade!) If the weather is dry, allow the potatoes to lay on the soil surface, unwashed, for 2-3 days so they can dry. If the weather is wet, or rain is expected, move the harvest to a cool, dry area (like a garage or basement) for the drying period. This drying step is necessary to mature the potato skin, which will protect the potato during storage.

If, by the end of September, the plants have not begun to die back, all of the foliage should be cut off to ensure your crop has ample time to mature before winter.

Store your undamaged potatoes in a well-ventilated, dark, cool (about 40 degrees) location. Properly dried and stored potatoes should keep well for three to six months.

Don't grow potatoes in the same soil more than once in three years. Many diseases and insect pests will survive and remain in this area, in spite of your best eradication efforts!

[Tornado]

http://www.humeseeds.com/potato.htm another link.

[SAP]

I have some experience of growing potatoes in Thailand I hope you fine some of this info helpful,

Potato require at least 7-8*C nighttime temperature for tuber bulking. Hence in Mae Sot and some mountianous regions potatoes can be planted in the wet season. Lowland, Coastal too hot or wet. Basically no potatoes are planted from JAN-May as it is too hot.

Best time to plant Oct-Nov (planting at this time with a short season variety you can reach same yields as temperate climates)

Give water every 2-3 days. keep soil constantly about 85% not saturated. When you squeeze soil in your hand should always feel wet. Never dry.

Puts lots of organic matter (make sure it is well decomposed before).

I would think that the planting in the Tyres is more for cool temperate climates to increase the heat of the soil after coming out of a cold winter. I do not not think that it would be beneficial here.

Put down a NPK fert to start with and every 2-3 weeks put a small quantity of Nitrogen and potassium fert until about week 10. As the low organic soils you will get leaching alot of leaching of N and K.

If you want to take really good care buy micro nutrient foliar spray( if for the home garden but it early and put on about 4 times the rate with your first watering after planting. It will help the early root development and that in turn will strengthen the plant later on. Micro nutrient sprays are more like taking Berocca Vitamin B, to fix a deficiency put it on early and reduce the problem

Keep an eye out for leaf fungus, spray if you see this, sometimes difficult to tell the differnece between leaf disease and nutrient deficiency. Thats why above I mentioned about the micro nutrient spray.

Varieties grown in Thailand are Spunta for fresh market and Atalntic for processing, Atlantic makes are very nice new potato.

Trying to grow potatoes near the coast or in the south, I think that you would have to empty your ice buck onto the potatoes each night to get the soil cool enough for tuber bulking............if you try this please let me know if it works

[Lickey]

Having dug up the rest of potatoes in the seed bed this afternoon and getting 8 golf-ball size taters out of 11 roots was a bit disappointing, although they were lovey with the whites of shallot stems and bertolli butter.

Having studied all the posts on here again, i see that tempeture and ground is important, {never gave this much thought back in Suffolk UK, just put them in and dig them up later, all done!! }..

To combine Saps temp and Soidogs tamarind leaves in the soil, i came up with this idea, Our irrigation pipeline from the borehole via holding tank and booster pump runs 50mts before the papaya plantation, the 2in blue pvc goes under 3 large tamarind trees. so if i dig ground 1yd wide, 1ft deep under the shade of the trees, bury the pipe in the middle and plant potates either side, the irrigation does run at night when needed, day or night the water is icy cold coming from 23mts down, this shoud keep the ground cool, the decomposed tamarind shells/leaves/fruit should give a good compost, plus i can add some buffalo shit, or 50-50-50 that we use on papaya, watering no problem,

Besides pest control ect, can any of you good posters see a downside to this, Thanks, Lickey..

[Maizefarmer]

Lickey

Not so much a water/soil issue, in youre case I suspect. Those 2 can be 101%, but if the climate ain't any good - they just ain't going to grow.

Won't bore you with a rehash of writeups on the farming forum elsewhere, but as far as spuds go - first consideration (at least in Thailand) has always been altitude (which determines local climate). The higher the better e.g. Chang Mai & Chang Rai areas

Anywhere outside/lower down than those 2 areas - it becomes a bit of a "hit & miss" case - most efforts fail, but some guys report success - so it must be possible.

I tried a few years back with a few rai. Took professional advise, choose seedstock carefully - everything by the book. Excellent foilage & growth, but come harvest time, though all looked pretty good above the ground, down below was a complete rotten mess.

Have nevcer tried again.

MF

[Lickey]

MF, thanks for input, i dont intend to do potatoes on a comercial basis, personal use only, keeping the ground cool via the 2" irrigation pipe could be a good start, good shade and plenty of banking up as shoots appear might promote tuber growth, as you say, altitude and heat do play a big part, shoots just bolt and dont achieve that good bushy look like uk spuds, so perhaps will try some pruning on odd plants, will keep posting on results,

Cheers, Lickey,,

[torrenova]

The girlfriend's mother has a bit of land which we thought we would try with some veggies and potatoes. Its in Buriram near Nangrong so the climate is not in our favour. Still might give it a shot after the rainy season.

[IvanLaw]

Good Day macb

Not sure if the information is of use to you but:

The company I work for import potatoes this time of year from Israel & Egypt.

Varieties Maris Piper & Maris Peer, Gathered when small and classed as “Baby or New”

Grown in raised beds in Peat with irrigation pipes to help control temperature and water.

Also covered with cloth at about 1 to 2 meters.

Not sure of full details but Taste EXELENT.

(Little different to Lincolnshire)

Good Luck

Regards

Edited April 15, 2007 by IvanLaw