Due to bad water pressure I'm having the shower hot water heater moved from the upstairs bathroom to the downstairs bathroom.

Has any poster had one installed before? If so what did the handyman or electrician charge you?

The main issue will be running the electric and the obstacles that would involve.  That could be a 10 minute job or all day depending on your situation.

 

Otherwise, removing and re-mounting the unit is a simple job - thinking 300-500 baht would get that done.

 

Edit: You might consider just buying a new unit in case the pressure ever gets better.  Another option is to put in a tank and pump.

Yeah, I was thinking along the same lines @bankruatsteve

Hope you let us know how it goes

Personally I think it wont make much difference, as I have a cold shower & a hot shower upstairs in different rooms

The cold shower would blast you away compared to the hot shower in the next room

I would put all this low pressure down to the heater unit restricting the water flow due to the decrease in the size of the piping & especially if you still have those very fine filters in

 

Had it successfully installed. Has a strong flow of hot water. Cost 600 baht to install baht including new wiring, a new shower hose and tap.

I'm afraid I have to ask, did your man install an earth / ground to the new heater location?

5 hours ago, Crossy said:

I'm afraid I have to ask, did your man install an earth / ground to the new heater location?

The guy said that he earthed the system.

 

There are 3 new wires: black, green and red running from the breaker box to the hot water system 

I take it the green one (the earth ) is hiding behind the red & black as ti enters the system

The green is not easy to spot but it's there.

 

Well, it seems to have a ground, but singles should not be left naked anywhere.

 

Time to break out the conduit / mini trunking or replace with the correct cable.

... was just wondering about the lack of double-insulation on the 220v wires, but see crossy mentions it in the last post.

 

The shower side wiring is OK-ish, but the entire run above the ceiling and down to wall to the CU need to be enclosed (or jacketed). You don't need one of the loose single wires being dragged by someone or *something* and fraying that single jacket bare and coming into contact with metalwork and energizing the suspended ceiling.

 

Another question:  Does the instant heater have ELCB or RCD protection?

There are no visible ELCB or RCD buttons on the external casing so shall  assume that it doesn't have this protection?

If it doesn't have a TEST or RESET switch on the case then it's unlikely to have that protection. And while I love the instant on water heaters I really wouldn't feel comfortable with one that didn't have ELCB / RCD protection.  While some people add them right next to the device, I recommend having them installed well away from any potential 'wet' or 'wet splash' areas.

22 minutes ago, RichCor said:

If it doesn't have a TEST or RESET switch on the case then it's unlikely to have that protection. And while I love the instant on water heaters I really wouldn't feel comfortable with one that didn't have ELCB / RCD protection.  While some people add them right next to the device, I recommend having them installed well away from any potential 'wet' or 'wet splash' areas.

Good advice, and I do believe that I have come across these heaters which do have an internal breaker, although not re-setable from the outside.

 

One needs to be VERY CAREFUL with these types of heaters and I've seen all sorts of abortions passing as "installations". 

^I don't know about it being an abortion - it's a Turbora 3005 brand.

As above, if it has no "test" and "reset" switches it doesn't have an RCD.

 

Do you have an RCD / RCBO / Safe-T-Cut in your distribution board? They too have "test" buttons, no button no earth leakage protection.

 

For shock protection you really need at least the shower circuit protected by an RCD. This can be a simple as a 500 Baht unit in a small box (get it in HomePro) or a whole-house device, often branded Safe-T-Cut which costs rather more.

 

Not sure what you have? Post a clear photo of your distribution board.