somchaismith Posted December 15, 2017 Share Posted December 15, 2017 Due to bad water pressure I'm having the shower hot water heater moved from the upstairs bathroom to the downstairs bathroom. Has any poster had one installed before? If so what did the handyman or electrician charge you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bankruatsteve Posted December 16, 2017 Share Posted December 16, 2017 (edited) The main issue will be running the electric and the obstacles that would involve. That could be a 10 minute job or all day depending on your situation. Otherwise, removing and re-mounting the unit is a simple job - thinking 300-500 baht would get that done. Edit: You might consider just buying a new unit in case the pressure ever gets better. Another option is to put in a tank and pump. Edited December 16, 2017 by bankruatsteve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crossy Posted December 16, 2017 Share Posted December 16, 2017 Yeah, I was thinking along the same lines @bankruatsteve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEVUP Posted December 16, 2017 Share Posted December 16, 2017 Hope you let us know how it goes Personally I think it wont make much difference, as I have a cold shower & a hot shower upstairs in different rooms The cold shower would blast you away compared to the hot shower in the next room I would put all this low pressure down to the heater unit restricting the water flow due to the decrease in the size of the piping & especially if you still have those very fine filters in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
somchaismith Posted December 16, 2017 Author Share Posted December 16, 2017 Had it successfully installed. Has a strong flow of hot water. Cost 600 baht to install baht including new wiring, a new shower hose and tap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crossy Posted December 16, 2017 Share Posted December 16, 2017 I'm afraid I have to ask, did your man install an earth / ground to the new heater location? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
somchaismith Posted December 17, 2017 Author Share Posted December 17, 2017 (edited) 5 hours ago, Crossy said: I'm afraid I have to ask, did your man install an earth / ground to the new heater location? The guy said that he earthed the system. Edited December 17, 2017 by somchaismith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
somchaismith Posted December 17, 2017 Author Share Posted December 17, 2017 (edited) There are 3 new wires: black, green and red running from the breaker box to the hot water system Edited December 17, 2017 by somchaismith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEVUP Posted December 17, 2017 Share Posted December 17, 2017 I take it the green one (the earth ) is hiding behind the red & black as ti enters the system Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
somchaismith Posted December 17, 2017 Author Share Posted December 17, 2017 The green is not easy to spot but it's there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crossy Posted December 17, 2017 Share Posted December 17, 2017 Well, it seems to have a ground, but singles should not be left naked anywhere. Time to break out the conduit / mini trunking or replace with the correct cable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichCor Posted December 17, 2017 Share Posted December 17, 2017 ... was just wondering about the lack of double-insulation on the 220v wires, but see crossy mentions it in the last post. The shower side wiring is OK-ish, but the entire run above the ceiling and down to wall to the CU need to be enclosed (or jacketed). You don't need one of the loose single wires being dragged by someone or *something* and fraying that single jacket bare and coming into contact with metalwork and energizing the suspended ceiling. Another question: Does the instant heater have ELCB or RCD protection? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
somchaismith Posted December 18, 2017 Author Share Posted December 18, 2017 There are no visible ELCB or RCD buttons on the external casing so shall assume that it doesn't have this protection? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichCor Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 If it doesn't have a TEST or RESET switch on the case then it's unlikely to have that protection. And while I love the instant on water heaters I really wouldn't feel comfortable with one that didn't have ELCB / RCD protection. While some people add them right next to the device, I recommend having them installed well away from any potential 'wet' or 'wet splash' areas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xylophone Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 22 minutes ago, RichCor said: If it doesn't have a TEST or RESET switch on the case then it's unlikely to have that protection. And while I love the instant on water heaters I really wouldn't feel comfortable with one that didn't have ELCB / RCD protection. While some people add them right next to the device, I recommend having them installed well away from any potential 'wet' or 'wet splash' areas. Good advice, and I do believe that I have come across these heaters which do have an internal breaker, although not re-setable from the outside. One needs to be VERY CAREFUL with these types of heaters and I've seen all sorts of abortions passing as "installations". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
somchaismith Posted December 19, 2017 Author Share Posted December 19, 2017 ^I don't know about it being an abortion - it's a Turbora 3005 brand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crossy Posted December 19, 2017 Share Posted December 19, 2017 As above, if it has no "test" and "reset" switches it doesn't have an RCD. Do you have an RCD / RCBO / Safe-T-Cut in your distribution board? They too have "test" buttons, no button no earth leakage protection. For shock protection you really need at least the shower circuit protected by an RCD. This can be a simple as a 500 Baht unit in a small box (get it in HomePro) or a whole-house device, often branded Safe-T-Cut which costs rather more. Not sure what you have? Post a clear photo of your distribution board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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