Aerated Block Size and Brand Recommendation Please

[Naam]

1 hour ago, Bill3173 said:

Q-Con recommends the a 100mm curb is installed in bathrooms (or flooded areas) before laying of the blocks. See the link to handbook, page 5, point 7.

only people without class build homes with bathrooms that can be flooded.

[cheeryble]

I’m not finally decided but interested in a single skin 100mm block.
The price at 30.50bt was out of kilter with the 75mm.

Thanks to the good folks on this forum I learned that Diamond, which I can buy 1km from home for 25bt, is a viable alternative with backup service.

I also now have a price from Onestockhome ......suggested here too......for QCon 100mm delivered from BKK inc vat for 26bt Per block.

Whether I finally use this size or not I know the best places to buy at a v good price.
THANKS to the folks here!


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[canopy]

That's interesting the manual says in wet areas to build up with concrete at the bottom. A q-con video shows at least one alternative: q-con wall in bathroom. In this video he says q-con can be used everywhere in the house. He stresses strongly there should be plenty of slope on the bathroom floor and smaller slopes are problematic. And he says slope alone isn't going to be enough and there should be a cement based waterproofing agent applied that goes 30cm up the wall before tiling. Everyone should show this video to their builder to get some ideas and understanding.

 

[Naam]

1 hour ago, canopy said:

He stresses strongly there should be plenty of slope on the bathroom floor and smaller slopes are problematic.

that applies only to people without class who build bathrooms with drainage and let the maid flood the floor instead of properly cleaning and disinfecting it. 

[Cashboy]

On 12/20/2017 at 10:51 PM, sirineou said:

 My builder is using a  double 7.5 cm  cavity wall . Originally we were going to use a single 15 cm block but determined that a double would cost about the same (they are so readily available the price has really come down) but provide superior insulation and hide the columns 

  I don'[t remember the price , because they are included in the price but you can see them at any home improvement store.

Link to my build thread :https://www.thaivisa.com/forum/topic/1003921-new-build-in-khon-kaen/

You have no wall ties accross the blocks by the looks of that?

Also how are you tying in the blocks to the concrete posts?

[sirineou]

10 hours ago, Cashboy said:

You have no wall ties accross the blocks by the looks of that?

Also how are you tying in the blocks to the concrete posts?

First There is no part of the wall that is not supported by either a horizontal or a vertical support brace

 These horizontal and vertical braces are tied to the columns with rebar and are reinforced by rebar,

I originally suggested that the  blocks on larger areas(the area between the window in the above picture is the largest unsupported area)  are tied with metal clips as you suggested   and angle clips to the columns  They suggested that the blocks are glued together with  a plug every so often (unfortunately dont have picture) as the are on the sides od the windows in esense  at sections making the cavity wall a solid wall.

to the columns  aside that they were glued to , there was chanel cut to every so many blocks, a hole drilled in the column and a piece of  rebar inserted in the hole  (i could only find a picture of the channel cut)

I am satisfied that this method has produced a rock solid wall.

PS: I found this picture of how they filled and glued  the cavity every so often:

Edited December 27, 2017 by sirineou

[cheeryble]

I notice the old "Alladin" water tanks in yr photo.
Is this yr land or next door?
I like this type of tank aesthetically and perfectly practical we ordered a pair of new ones for a hilltop plot we own they stand proudly on top waiting for the Aboriginal pointillist style decoration I never got round to....but doing their job.


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[sirineou]

3 hours ago, cheeryble said:

 

I notice the old "Alladin" water tanks in yr photo.
Is this yr land or next door?
I like this type of tank aesthetically and perfectly practical we ordered a pair of new ones for a hilltop plot we own they stand proudly on top waiting for the Aboriginal pointillist style decoration I never got round to....but doing their job.


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Traditional Thai water tanks made from cement. they were there before we purchased the land. The land next door belongs to my wife's sister..(we are a very close family) When I did the fence, I fenced both our property and the sisters property together without a fence in the middle (if any of us wanted to sell later .we could always build a fence between and divide, but for now we want to leave  that area open so we can walk to each others house and make the area between in to a resort type garden. 

   I am conflicted about the concrete water tanks. I have litle use for them,and they are in the way, but I like the look of them.

When we started building , I asked the builder to take them away, but he said to fill them up with water and keep them , at least until the  build was done in case the water service  was interrupted and they needed water. and we can get rid of them later. 

As I said , I am conflicted about that ,and reserve the right to change my mind,(lust as soon as I get one LOL).

[Cashboy]

23 minutes ago, sirineou said:

Traditional Thai water tanks made from cement. they were there before we purchased the land. The land next door belongs to my wife's sister..(we are a very close family) When I did the fence, I fenced both our property and the sisters property together without a fence in the middle (if any of us wanted to sell later .we could always build a fence between and divide, but for now we want to leave  that area open so we can walk to each others house and make the area between in to a resort type garden. 

   I am conflicted about the concrete water tanks. I have litle use for them,and they are in the way, but I like the look of them.

When we started building , I asked the builder to take them away, but he said to fill them up with water and keep them , at least until the  build was done in case the water service  was interrupted and they needed water. and we can get rid of them later. 

As I said , I am conflicted about that ,and reserve the right to change my mind,(lust as soon as I get one LOL).

I would keep them if I was you.

They are called "Ong" I think.

I would run the water from the roof gutters into them.

Always useful for water for the garden in the hot season.

I was actually trying to buy some new ones and haven't sourced a supplier as yet.

[lopburi3]

Anyone know if these blocks can be used to raise floor level?  Use over cement/tile floor to make higher and cover with tile?  Seems as if would save a lot on weight and offer a warmer floor.

[Naam]

5 minutes ago, lopburi3 said:

Anyone know if these blocks can be used to raise floor level?  Use over cement/tile floor to make higher and cover with tile?  Seems as if would save a lot on weight and offer a warmer floor.

no problem at all. because of central Florida's winter temperaturers (dec-feb some days around or below freezing point) we put one layer of aerated blocks on concrete before tiling our enclosed pool area. no cracked tiles.

[sirineou]

5 hours ago, Cashboy said:

I would keep them if I was you.

They are called "Ong" I think.

I would run the water from the roof gutters into them.

Always useful for water for the garden in the hot season.

I was actually trying to buy some new ones and haven't sourced a supplier as yet.

 

Move them to the back wall  out of the way, use a concrete stain and make them look a litle better, and like you said have the roof gutters drain in them , and use a submersible pump to use the water for garden watering. 

Not a bad idea!

[cheeryble]

I would keep them if I was you.

They are called "Ong" I think.

I would run the water from the roof gutters into them.

Always useful for water for the garden in the hot season.

I was actually trying to buy some new ones and haven't sourced a supplier as yet.

 

There’s a supplier in Paan area between CR and Payou.

Cheap too compared to ugly plastic ones and gaudy s/s (apologies to those owning the latter)

Wife knows details if u need just PM

 

 

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[canopy]

The big jars are not as traditional as you might think. It wasn't until the 1980's a technique known as ferrocement was introduced to build them and they took off. They are a major source of mosquitoes. It used to be mosquitoes were a nuisance in the rainy season, but thanks to these jars they are now a year round problem.

 

[canopy]

17 hours ago, lopburi3 said:

Anyone know if these blocks can be used to raise floor level?

 

Use q-con AAC floor panels, not blocks.

 

Edited December 29, 2017 by canopy

[lopburi3]

10 minutes ago, canopy said:

 

Use q-con AAC floor panels, not blocks.

 

Any online information for them (size/cost) - suspect would have to instruct/obtain for workers.  Trying to figure a way to raise floor level to avoid rain flooding (again).  They do not have to self support as would be directly on current floor and covered with tile.  Have two floors now so would like to avoid a third heavy layer if possible.

 

Edit:  on second thought they probably would not be an option as home is already built so if large would be no way to get them into house.

Edited December 29, 2017 by lopburi3

[canopy]

Floor panels would go into a house real easily. q-con floor panels are just 60cm wide. Thickness is up to you and same as the blocks: 7.5cm and up. Length of each panel 2 meters and up.

 

[cheeryble]

On December 28, 2017 at 8:24 PM, sirineou said:

 

use a concrete stain and make them look a litle better,

 

If you don't want pointillist artwork on them but would like a weathered natural look paint them with milk, and wait.