Fertlizer for malay grass

[newatthis]

Afternoon all,

Can anyone please recommend a good fertilizer for Malay grass? The lawn is about 4 months old and I thought that it would be good to fertilize now that we are at the end of the cool season.

Thanks heaps

[newatthis]

12 hours ago, Arjen said:

Cut the lawn and leave the cuts on the lawn is already a very good start.

 

Arjen.

 

Yes, I do realise but doing it too often can lead to thatching, can't it?

 

[BEVUP]

Hello 

I have 30 m 2 of Malay grass

Most on the Sth side as it is now getting most of the sun

I use maybe once or twice a yr ( & have actually just done it )

 

* Just general dry plant / flower fertilizer ( this is what you should use only since it is the first time )

* also I use dry Nitrogen (since the above doesn't have enough in )

* & a liquid product called Extra Microorganism (white bottle / green top )

 

# If you decide to use more then 1 product seperate by 1 mth 

 

Grass is basically like growing rice

 

This time I did a heavy fertilizing 

 

I just throw the plant food around & the same with the Nitrogen - Water in well

Then I put the liquid product on from watering can (need to dilute / very strong stuff )

 

Since I gave a heavy dosage it will die of the rubbish grass & other bits ( but not to worry as it comes back )

 

Cut the grass every 2wks or so - comes up like a fluffy bowling green

 

[newatthis]

39 minutes ago, BEVUP said:

Hello 

I have 30 m 2 of Malay grass

Most on the Sth side as it is now getting most of the sun

I use maybe once or twice a yr ( & have actually just done it )

 

* Just general dry plant / flower fertilizer ( this is what you should use only since it is the first time )

* also I use dry Nitrogen (since the above doesn't have enough in )

* & a liquid product called Extra Microorganism (white bottle / green top )

 

# If you decide to use more then 1 product seperate by 1 mth 

 

Grass is basically like growing rice

 

This time I did a heavy fertilizing 

 

I just throw the plant food around & the same with the Nitrogen - Water in well

Then I put the liquid product on from watering can (need to dilute / very strong stuff )

 

Since I gave a heavy dosage it will die of the rubbish grass & other bits ( but not to worry as it comes back )

 

Cut the grass every 2wks or so - comes up like a fluffy bowling green

 

Thanks heaps Bevup.

[drtreelove]

Hopefully you prepared the soil well before planting and incorporated copious amount of organic matter.  The most beautiful lush ya malaysia lawns I've seen and grown in Thailand had good soil preparation like this, and didn't need much further fertilization for a couple of years. Without good soil preparation, the health and appearance of the grass is hard to maintain on a long term basis. 

 

There are two ways to look at lawn fertilization, the chemical approach and organic lawn care. 

 

"Chemical lawn care focuses on feeding the grass. Organic lawn care’s guiding principle is nourish the soil. By restoring and protecting soil health, organic lawn care gives you a healthy lawn that is naturally resistant to weeds, diseases, and pests. It’s all about building vigorous, healthy grasses that crowd out weeds. Creating fertile soil and naturally resistant grass takes some time, but it is well worth the wait."

http://www.hat.bc.ca/organic-lawn-care

(not all points apply to tropical monsoon climate)

 

I love Ya Malaysia lawn. It is lush, beautiful to look at, cool and comfortable to lay and play on. When our kids were growing up and we had dogs and cats, we spent a lot of family time on the lawn. When healthy and mature it resists weeds and ants. 

 

When we lived in Chiang Mai I had larger ya malaysia lawns and good access to fertilizer materials. Now I have a small yard and was not able to prepare the soil well, so trying to top dress with thin layers of compost and composted cow manure every two or three months to make up for lack of prep before planting. 

I am also using a 16-16-16 available at a local nursery and at Home Pro in 3 kilo sacks. This product, even though a hard chemistry fertilizer, has a little more complete range of nutrients than urea 46-0-0, including a Calcium component.  You could apply 3 to 6 kilos per 100 sq meters of lawn surface. The 6 kilo rate will give you a little less than 1 kilo of actual Nitrogen per 100 sq meters, (10m x 10m) a maximum amount of N for a 4 month period.  The 3 kilo per 100 rate you can apply every two months during the growing season for a more conservative growth rate.  

 

Mow high at 3" don't scalp the grass. Mow every week during the growing season, so that you don't cut off too much of the grass blades at one time. Depending on your mower, you may find that you can cut without a catcher and leave lay. But with ya malaysia the grass blades are thick and can mat and leave piles that dry out and look bad. It is sometimes better to catch the mowings and compost in a pile with other material, and then return the finished compost to the soil at a later date.  

 

There can be a lot more to it, especially if you pursue the organic lawn care principles and practice. 

See pages 31 - 36 in the attached Organic Land Care Standards. 

 

 

 

Organic Land Care Standards.pdf

[drtreelove]

On 2/20/2018 at 8:16 AM, BEVUP said:

Hello 

I have 30 m 2 of Malay grass

Most on the Sth side as it is now getting most of the sun

I use maybe once or twice a yr ( & have actually just done it )

 

* Just general dry plant / flower fertilizer ( this is what you should use only since it is the first time )

* also I use dry Nitrogen (since the above doesn't have enough in )

* & a liquid product called Extra Microorganism (white bottle / green top )

 

# If you decide to use more then 1 product seperate by 1 mth 

 

Grass is basically like growing rice

 

This time I did a heavy fertilizing 

 

I just throw the plant food around & the same with the Nitrogen - Water in well

Then I put the liquid product on from watering can (need to dilute / very strong stuff )

 

Since I gave a heavy dosage it will die of the rubbish grass & other bits ( but not to worry as it comes back )

 

Cut the grass every 2wks or so - comes up like a fluffy bowling green

 

I disagree with some of this advise. 

Grass is basically like growing rice

Yes rice is a grass, but that's where the similarity ends in my opinion. Rice is grown for the seed crop. Lawns are grown for the ground cover foliage.

Most rice cultivation in Thailand is on "din nieaw", heavy, sticky clay soil base that doesn't drain water; that's what makes it good for wet-land paddy,  rice varieties that are tolerant of growing in standing water.  If you flood irrigate lawn grass on sticky, poorly drained soil, it will die. Lawn grass needs good drainage or the roots will rot. 

 

This time I did a heavy fertilizing 

Since I gave a heavy dosage it will die of the rubbish grass & other bits ( but not to worry as it comes back )

Exactly, the heavy Nitrogen salts dose burned it. It may or may not come back, depending on how deeply into the root system is was burned.

Better to know what you are doing with chemical fertilizers, how to calculate the amount of actual Nitrogen applied, and not burn the grass, destroy beneficial soil microorganisms, and force a stressful recovery. 

 

Cut the grass every 2wks or so

During the cool season this is okay, the grass has minimal growth. But during the growing season, if you mow every two weeks or so, you will have to cut a large percentage of the blade length, 50% or more, which will take it down to brown and reduce capacity for photosynthesis of sugars that it needs. If you scalp it, you will negatively affect appearance and plant health. Continual scalping and forced recovery is stressful and detrimental. Mow it weekly, mow it high, leaving plenty of green blade length, and you will have consistent good appearance and best conditions for healthy sod. 

 

The inoculation with EM (usually represents Effective Microorganisms) is a good idea. I used Bionutrients Total Pak from Growth Products when I laid my ya malaysia sod, which I brought from the US.  But it's pointless if you at the same time apply excessive chemical fertilization, which is very harsh and destructive for the "soil-food-web". 

[newatthis]

^^^

Good afternoon Drtreelove'

Thank you very much for both your replies. The area is fairly large [about 100 sq metres]. Before our land was a lot lower than our neighbours', so during last year's flood, the water sat for a long time. After it dissippated, we purchased soil and had it built up to start all over again.

This time we had the turf laid by the people who sold it. They used "pig sand" and also a layer of black soil. I didn't have time or the ingredients to prepare the soil before they laid it.

It's going along well and I do mow it the highest setting on the lawnmower every week now. I had left it for a month after the initial laying and it was a struggle to get through with my the electric mower. It's putting out some good runners along the edges which I want. I put a very thin spread of worm castings on it a couple of weeks ago. Otherwise it's just water and mow at the moment.

I'll try and send some photos tomorrow. They won't upload tonight.

[newatthis]

This is the only way I could do the photos. Hope it works. First time for everything:

 

 

Any help with developing this lawn would be greatly appreciated.

 

 

[newatthis]

Wow, Imgbb worked. As you can see, some of the lawn is nice and thick while other parts are quite thin. These are the parts I want to improve.

Ta

[BEVUP]

Mowed yesterday

No special prep when laid - The grass people doing the Moo Baan came along & just chipped away the old Cooch (I think ) then made a gentle slope with sand where needed (they said it wont grow on sand ) , the ground is like concrete as I found out when putting the clothes line in

 

Looks like you have a lot of shade Newatthis, might be you problem

[simoh1490]

The main selling point of Malay grass is that it is extremely hardy and it will thrive any almost any soil conditions, fertilizer is therefore not necessary but lots of water is. I've seen Malay grass disappear to almost nothing and then return when the rains came.

[drtreelove]

It's easy to get green growth and good appearance in the short term with chemistry. And then more chemistry to suppress pests and diseases that prevail as deficiencies develop. The real test of plant health and resistance to pests and diseases comes after years of growth.  The organic approach is more comprehensive and sustainable, for the plants and for the environment. 

[drtreelove]

1 hour ago, newatthis said:

Wow, Imgbb worked. As you can see, some of the lawn is nice and thick while other parts are quite thin. These are the parts I want to improve.

Ta

It looks good. The thin and browned areas are just the initial minor setback results of the installation and the way sod is cut and laid here, very thin and with minimally improved soil base. In the US, sod is machine cut with a uniform thickness one inch of soil base, so it goes in green and stays green if watered appropriately. Here you really need to top dress it with compost or loamy soil, to fill in the thin areas and improve water holding capacity while it gets established by putting down roots. Gradually add thin layers with organic matter content, not too thick or you will smother the grass.

 

I'm preparing for the hot dry season that starts now until monsoon rains begin in May /June. Soil moisture content is challenging to maintain and water bills can soar.  I just top dressed my malay grass and put down about a quarter to half inch thick layer of  sack compost ("pui insee") that I mixed with sacks of composted pulverized cow manure ("pui wua") from a local nursery.  That's how I am phasing out the use of chemical fertilizer. 

 

I don't believe that the shade is a problem. In my own yard the ya malaysia is doing best in the shadiest part of my yard. Malay grass is the most shade tolerant of the common lawn grasses here. I have grown it successfully under shade tree canopies, as long as the sunlight can get in for awhile each day, under the canopy in early morning or evening. Or I thin the tree foliage for filtered light. If exposed to full sun it just needs more frequent watering and compost top dressing periodically.

 

The worm castings are an excellent source of organic slow release nutrients and beneficial micro-organisms that you can't get from chemical fertilizers. On my last organic materials sourcing venture in Chiang Mai, I found sacks of bat guano at an ag shop in Mae Jo. Get ahold of some of that if you can and your lawn will love it. 

 

[newatthis]

3 hours ago, drtreelove said:

It looks good. The thin and browned areas are just the initial minor setback results of the installation and the way sod is cut and laid here, very thin and with minimally improved soil base. In the US, sod is machine cut with a uniform thickness one inch of soil base, so it goes in green and stays green if watered appropriately. Here you really need to top dress it with compost or loamy soil, to fill in the thin areas and improve water holding capacity while it gets established by putting down roots. Gradually add thin layers with organic matter content, not too thick or you will smother the grass.

 

I'm preparing for the hot dry season that starts now until monsoon rains begin in May /June. Soil moisture content is challenging to maintain and water bills can soar.  I just top dressed my malay grass and put down about a quarter to half inch thick layer of  sack compost ("pui insee") that I mixed with sacks of composted pulverized cow manure ("pui wua") from a local nursery.  That's how I am phasing out the use of chemical fertilizer. 

 

I don't believe that the shade is a problem. In my own yard the ya malaysia is doing best in the shadiest part of my yard. Malay grass is the most shade tolerant of the common lawn grasses here. I have grown it successfully under shade tree canopies, as long as the sunlight can get in for awhile each day, under the canopy in early morning or evening. Or I thin the tree foliage for filtered light. If exposed to full sun it just needs more frequent watering and compost top dressing periodically.

 

The worm castings are an excellent source of organic slow release nutrients and beneficial micro-organisms that you can't get from chemical fertilizers. On my last organic materials sourcing venture in Chiang Mai, I found sacks of bat guano at an ag shop in Mae Jo. Get ahold of some of that if you can and your lawn will love it. 

 

Thanks again for all your advice..

Because of the shortage around here, I have already ordered some organic compost, some bat guano and chicken manure through Lazada. It should arrive next week. I had to get the worm castings the same way.

The trees have stopped dropping their leaves now so that layer of leaves will slowly break down. Neighbour's dogs are a problem....lawn is dead in a few areas, but I'm hoping with constant watering the grass will spread over those areas.

[drtreelove]

5 hours ago, newatthis said:

Thanks again for all your advice..

Because of the shortage around here, I have already ordered some organic compost, some bat guano and chicken manure through Lazada. It should arrive next week. I had to get the worm castings the same way.

The trees have stopped dropping their leaves now so that layer of leaves will slowly break down. Neighbour's dogs are a problem....lawn is dead in a few areas, but I'm hoping with constant watering the grass will spread over those areas.

Don't over do it with the manure and burn your new lawn. Chicken manure especially can be quite "hot" (high N), unless well aged or composted. 

What are the dogs doing? Do you attribute the dead areas to dog pee, (female dogs squat to pee and cause burned spots) If you see where that happens then flush with water as soon as possible to dilute the urine. 

Otherwise, yes the dry areas will fill in if you keep it watered and maybe top dress with the compost. 

Please post a link for the  online compost source. 

Don

[newatthis]

11 hours ago, drtreelove said:

Don't over do it with the manure and burn your new lawn. Chicken manure especially can be quite "hot" (high N), unless well aged or composted. 

What are the dogs doing? Do you attribute the dead areas to dog pee, (female dogs squat to pee and cause burned spots) If you see where that happens then flush with water as soon as possible to dilute the urine. 

Otherwise, yes the dry areas will fill in if you keep it watered and maybe top dress with the compost. 

Please post a link for the  online compost source. 

Don

Good morning Don,

Here is the link for the online compost source:

https://www.lazada.co.th/8-compost100-98676829.html?spm=a2o4m.other.0.0.35534798ospevG

Yep, the neighbour has 2 female dogs who visit and pee and poop on our lawn and the driveway.  I shouldn't say visit because they actually sleep under our home...very protective of us.

No problems about the chicken manure as I won't be receiving it. The seller advised me that the order was packed and ready to be collected by Lazada on Monday, but Lazada has just sent me an email saying the order has been cancelled due to a system error.

Thanks again.

[cooked]

Those patches look like those caused like dogs to me although a fungal disease will do that also. Are the patches spreading?

A well cared for lawn need about 30 (20)gm of N per year, depending on whether you have a slow release or rapid working fertiliser, you can distribute this over up to five doses. Even in Farangland I would give quick working fertilisers in the evening and make sure they were watered in. 

Water: I suggest 20mm per week in the dry season if you want a good lawn all the time.

Here I just let the cows graze on the green bit when the grass is too long.