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Considering move to siem reap from bkk after 12 years?


Paulinho

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I have had extended stays in Siem Reap on regular occasions over the past nine years but I have found it is changing and as usual, not for the better. There is an active expat scene, quite a few of them actually, especially on the schoolteacher front. A lot of expats are running small businesses and there are many ' arty ' types of people, There is an eclectic mix of expats and some really nice and interesting people.

 

The place gets invaded during high season by masses of tourists from all over the world, prices increase significantly in all tourist spots and hotels. I find I am bored stiff after a couple of weeks and wishing to get back to Thailand. The local police are useless, crime including robberies with violence and bag snatching are becoming very common occurrences. Cambodian weddings and funerals seem to be occurring all over Siem reap with regularity, and you certainly do not want to be staying in the vicinity when they do.  These can be very noisy events.

 

There are chilled out places outside the cities that have been mentioned earlier such as Kep, even Battambang has an expat community albeit small, etc. Sihanoukville is now a waste of time.

 

On the health front, I won't argue but if Sunrise in Phnom Penn, is all they have to offer and there is a resident population of some 14 million, with God knows how many tourists at any given time, that is not much of a great option really. Even their damned prime minister goes to Singapore for treatment!

 

As the OP should be aware already, power outages are especially common inside and outside the cities, and infrastructure is not even good within the cities let alone just outside. it is up to you, I would feel far better and safer in a slightly remote place such as Koh Chang with its peace and tranquility, than I would in Cambodia, which is strongly leaning towards a Chinese based economy and tourism sector.

 

If it was a change of scenery and culture that I was looking for, I personally, would be heading for Vietnam. There is far more to interest me and keep me occupied.

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The Siem Reap of a decade or two ago yes, but nowadays too much of a circus :Battambang or Kampot would be better options.

Have you considered Vietnam? I moved from Bangkok to Vietnam a year ago, after decades in Bangkok, and haven't regretted the move yet. 

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Hi Sheryl,

It's been a while, but I used to work (telecom) in Vietnam, both Hanoi and Saigon.  I liked Hanoi better: more greenery and cooler weather in the winter.  I found the Vietnamese to be very intelligent and hard working. But keep in mind that their culture is very different than Thai culture. Thais will do anything to avoid confrontation whereas the Vietnamese will get in you face in a heartbeat if they are annoyed.

 

Personally, I would pick Hanoi over Siem Reap.  There is more to do in Hanoi and more employment opportunities, but also more greenery than Bangkok.

 

Why not try a month or two in SR and then a month or two in Hanoi

 

Finally, let me say that if you are set financially for the rest of your life, great.  If not, better go back to the UK or EU while you are still young enough to get a good job and save for retirement.  Sadly, Thailand or indeed Asia, isn't a good place to be when you are old, sick and poor. I've seen a number of Western men and women in that situation.  Not pretty. 

 

Best of luck,

Don

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10 hours ago, Cisco said:

Hanoi might tick the boxes for you. Sorry, don’t have anything to offer in the way of visa or accommodation info. Have been to SR a few times, including a combined trip with Hanoi last year. It’s OK. Very impressed with Hanoi. Good weather, bustling town...

 

 

Nha Trang VN. Low-cost resort city with beautiful beaches. Lots of greenery between town and mountains. Far enough, but not too far from big city. Tourists but not overrun. 

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Nha Trang Vietnam, has it all, look across the Bridge, many houses for rent, good prices, and at least Vietnam has infrastructure - Siem Reap is expensive and "Plastic"  very commercial, lots of rip offs, even the Khmer don't like living up there - good place to visit, but wouldn;t want to live there.  If you are dead set on Cambodia, I recommend going north past Bon Keack (sp) about an hour outside Phnom Penh = (Kilo 22?) lots of houses, small farms for rent there............haven;t read any other posters comments, but you will find Cambodia is still Thailand forty years ago.   Vietnam is the fastest growing country in SE Asia.  Where it took Thailand fifty years to get where it is now, it will only take Vietnam another 20 to catch up.  One issue is Health care, not near as good as Thailand, but Bkk is only an hour away and Vietjet is cheap, cheap, cheap.

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It seems that you just need to move outside BKK.
A bit funny that you cannot imagine how different is the life between BKK hell and the provinces....
 
 
He has visa issues. Apparently not retirement age and not married to a Thai. Seeking somewhere he can get long term visa.

So luving elsewhete in Thailand doesn't work.



Sent from my SM-J701F using Thailand Forum - Thaivisa mobile app

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On 9/21/2018 at 7:11 AM, Paulinho said:

P. S. If anyone wants to jump in with places in VN that checks the 'what I want' list then that would be appreciated. I am considering VN also..... 

My pals all ended up in Vietnam and the Philippines after getting fed up with VISA issues in Thailand.

Both places are great, clean beaches and nice countryside.

Vietnam is probably better for hiking and cycling.

But DurianRiders Vegan cycling group seem to have switched from Chiang Mai to Davao.

 

Visa's are easy for both places, and they don't seem to care if you're working a bit.

Once in either country, you can easily extend the VISA indefinitely.

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21 hours ago, thecyclist said:

The Siem Reap of a decade or two ago yes, but nowadays too much of a circus :Battambang or Kampot would be better options.

Have you considered Vietnam? I moved from Bangkok to Vietnam a year ago, after decades in Bangkok, and haven't regretted the move yet. 

Where in Vietnam?

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On 10/4/2018 at 1:07 PM, Mac98 said:

Nha Trang VN. Low-cost resort city with beautiful beaches. Lots of greenery between town and mountains. Far enough, but not too far from big city. Tourists but not overrun. 

They must have cleaned up Nha Trang. I remember not so clean beaches, pick pocketing and petty theft. Ripping off foreigners was part of life. Lived and worked there 15 yes ago. Corruption was everywhere.

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On 10/4/2018 at 1:08 AM, martijn12345 said:

Just wondering, if you love Thailand... Have you considered other places in the country? I personally love Thailand as well, but BKK not so much. Yes it's got the best shopping, the best nightlife, the most choice in restaurants. But like you said... ALL THAT CONCRETE. I don't mind to visit there but always happy to leave again.

Have you considered Chiang Mai, or say a place like Hua Hin or Phuket. All will give you enough choices to not be bored, yet you can live in a house, close to a market and have a cat.

I know this does not solve the visa issues in any way, just interested why Cambodia instead of elsewhere in the LOS.

Issan has great potential.  Roi Et is a nice garden city with lake and moat...Nong Khai on the Mekong is sweet. Khon Kaen is sociable. Issan has a different vibe and pace of life yet is still in Thailand 

 

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"but you will find Cambodia is still Thailand forty years ago. "

 

Why are people still perpetuating this myth/cliche ?

Cambodia is NOT like Thailand 40 years ago. Thailand was cheap 40 years ago. Nearly everything in Cambodia (important stuff like edible food, rent, supermarkets) is now more expensive than in Thailand. In Cambodia your basically paying more to live in a far worse environment.

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On 10/4/2018 at 4:24 AM, NCC1701A said:

some more options in Thailand Hua Hin, Cha Am, Phetchaburi, Pranburi, Kanchanaburi, Ban Krut, Prachuap Khiri Khan. 

I don't think many of the people can afford  Prachuap Khiri Khan province. Quality costs.  As for Kanchanburi, unless one has the ability to be medevaced to Bangkok within an hour, I wouldn't trust the medical  services.

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been many times to sr, (last trip was in July) over the past 14 years
after 3 days, enough an cant wait to get out, its very hot in the summer

 

Lots of changes, few for the better, outside of better selection  of western foods in the supermarket an restaurants, but its not nearly as inexpensive as Thailand, Pub street is like Khoan san road, so if u like that vibe u'll be ok.

easy to find a 2-3bedroom house 10 minutes outside town for under 500

 

I am a water person so prefer Lazy Kep or 10 minutes outside Kampot on the river

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On 10/10/2018 at 8:18 AM, 4737 Carlin said:

"but you will find Cambodia is still Thailand forty years ago. "

 

Why are people still perpetuating this myth/cliche ?

Cambodia is NOT like Thailand 40 years ago. Thailand was cheap 40 years ago. Nearly everything in Cambodia (important stuff like edible food, rent, supermarkets) is now more expensive than in Thailand. In Cambodia your basically paying more to live in a far worse environment.

 

This is the only thing that needs to be said. Correct !

 

 

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On 10/10/2018 at 8:39 AM, geriatrickid said:

I don't think many of the people can afford  Prachuap Khiri Khan province. Quality costs.  As for Kanchanburi, unless one has the ability to be medevaced to Bangkok within an hour, I wouldn't trust the medical  services.

 

Very funny and ridiculous, talking as it was deep Africa....

 

 

 

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3 hours ago, jrjrjr said:

 

This is the only thing that needs to be said. Correct !

 

 

Hmmm. I. Hearing enough 'not good idea' posts to make me have some serious doubts. 

 

Also the EU is banning trade with CMB in the next few months. 

 

EU is CMB biggest export area. 40pc of CMB (their biggest part of gdp) comes from EU worth 6Billion. 

 

This is due to Hu Sen banning opposition party. 

 

This, we can forsee serious economic collapse. 

 

Someone told me crime is rising and burglaries are up, and beggars and street kids are out in droves. 

 

So my dream of a small house In SR now sound like a dangerous place and expensive and only likely to get worse. 

 

Thus I turn my attention to Vietnam. 

 

Thanks 

 

P

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On 10/4/2018 at 2:16 PM, Scouse123 said:

I have had extended stays in Siem Reap on regular occasions over the past nine years but I have found it is changing and as usual, not for the better. There is an active expat scene, quite a few of them actually, especially on the schoolteacher front. A lot of expats are running small businesses and there are many ' arty ' types of people, There is an eclectic mix of expats and some really nice and interesting people.

 

The place gets invaded during high season by masses of tourists from all over the world, prices increase significantly in all tourist spots and hotels. I find I am bored stiff after a couple of weeks and wishing to get back to Thailand. The local police are useless, crime including robberies with violence and bag snatching are becoming very common occurrences. Cambodian weddings and funerals seem to be occurring all over Siem reap with regularity, and you certainly do not want to be staying in the vicinity when they do.  These can be very noisy events.

 

There are chilled out places outside the cities that have been mentioned earlier such as Kep, even Battambang has an expat community albeit small, etc. Sihanoukville is now a waste of time.

 

On the health front, I won't argue but if Sunrise in Phnom Penn, is all they have to offer and there is a resident population of some 14 million, with God knows how many tourists at any given time, that is not much of a great option really. Even their damned prime minister goes to Singapore for treatment!

 

As the OP should be aware already, power outages are especially common inside and outside the cities, and infrastructure is not even good within the cities let alone just outside. it is up to you, I would feel far better and safer in a slightly remote place such as Koh Chang with its peace and tranquility, than I would in Cambodia, which is strongly leaning towards a Chinese based economy and tourism sector.

 

If it was a change of scenery and culture that I was looking for, I personally, would be heading for Vietnam. There is far more to interest me and keep me occupied.

Thanks for that. I have also decided against it now and am looking at Vietnam as I've heard good things far more than the issues in CMB. 

 

 

Could you tell me (given my needs) where you'd advise in VN? 

 

Many thanks again, 

 

P

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On 10/4/2018 at 2:28 PM, Caine said:

Have you considered Vientiane Laos, much more layed back and nicer people.

Yes, been many times. Love it and the people but not much greenery in Vientiane and outside their Internet and ammenities short. Ut do love Laos

 

Doesn't tick enough boxes though, sadly. 

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On 10/4/2018 at 3:02 PM, thecyclist said:

The Siem Reap of a decade or two ago yes, but nowadays too much of a circus :Battambang or Kampot would be better options.

Have you considered Vietnam? I moved from Bangkok to Vietnam a year ago, after decades in Bangkok, and haven't regretted the move yet. 

Thanks. Also I have also decided no on SR and am looking at Vietnam. 

 

Could you tell me (given my needs) where you'd advise in VN? 

 

Thanks 

 

P

 

 

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On 10/4/2018 at 6:07 PM, Mac98 said:

Nha Trang VN. Low-cost resort city with beautiful beaches. Lots of greenery between town and mountains. Far enough, but not too far from big city. Tourists but not overrun. 

Sounds perfect. Some others have mentioned Nha Trang. Thanks. 

 

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On 10/5/2018 at 5:07 AM, TunnelRat69 said:

Nha Trang Vietnam, has it all, look across the Bridge, many houses for rent, good prices, and at least Vietnam has infrastructure - Siem Reap is expensive and "Plastic"  very commercial, lots of rip offs, even the Khmer don't like living up there - good place to visit, but wouldn;t want to live there.  If you are dead set on Cambodia, I recommend going north past Bon Keack (sp) about an hour outside Phnom Penh = (Kilo 22?) lots of houses, small farms for rent there............haven;t read any other posters comments, but you will find Cambodia is still Thailand forty years ago.   Vietnam is the fastest growing country in SE Asia.  Where it took Thailand fifty years to get where it is now, it will only take Vietnam another 20 to catch up.  One issue is Health care, not near as good as Thailand, but Bkk is only an hour away and Vietjet is cheap, cheap, cheap.

Very positive. Thanks. May I PM you? 

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23 hours ago, Paulinho said:

Thanks. Also I have also decided no on SR and am looking at Vietnam. 

 

Could you tell me (given my needs) where you'd advise in VN? 

 

Thanks 

 

P

 

 

If I were you, I would bike around a bit first and see where I like it best and settle there 

Some posters mentioned Nha Trang :I disagree, nice beaches but overrun with tourists especially Russians, too many rip-offs, food more expensive than elsewhere. Hoi An is even worse :the rip-off capital of Vietnam. 

I love the Delta area :People are very welcoming, friendly and honest. Never gets cold like in Hanoi in winter. 

Danang is another option :Awesome city, great biking routes around. 

Vung Tau great too:tourist town but mainly Vietnamese tourist on weekends, otherwise quiet, although some overcharging of farang. 

In general, Vietnam should tick many of your boxes :Vegetarian restaurants everywhere, cheap gyms in all towns, no hassles with visa renewals etc 

If you interested I can send you some pics of my biking tours in Vietnam for a first impression/orientation 

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5 minutes ago, thecyclist said:

If I were you, I would bike around a bit first and see where I like it best and settle there 

Some posters mentioned Nha Trang :I disagree, nice beaches but overrun with tourists especially Russians, too many rip-offs, food more expensive than elsewhere. Hoi An is even worse :the rip-off capital of Vietnam. 

I love the Delta area :People are very welcoming, friendly and honest. Never gets cold like in Hanoi in winter. 

Danang is another option :Awesome city, great biking routes around. 

Vung Tau great too:tourist town but mainly Vietnamese tourist on weekends, otherwise quiet, although some overcharging of farang. 

In general, Vietnam should tick many of your boxes :Vegetarian restaurants everywhere, cheap gyms in all towns, no hassles with visa renewals etc 

If you interested I can send you some pics of my biking tours in Vietnam for a first impression/orientation 

Sounds great. Where is the delta region? Far from coast? 

 

Someone raved about Nha Trang also. 

 

Would love to see the pics. 

 

Pm me and I'll send you my email 

 

Thanks, the cyclist! 

 

P. S. I love cycling too. Did you get yours in VN? Mines back home and maybe I'll ship it over as its a nice one. Did you mainly use road or off road? I have bikes for both. Wonder which is best for VN. 

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11 hours ago, thecyclist said:

If I were you, I would bike around a bit first and see where I like it best and settle there 

Some posters mentioned Nha Trang :I disagree, nice beaches but overrun with tourists especially Russians, too many rip-offs, food more expensive than elsewhere. Hoi An is even worse :the rip-off capital of Vietnam. 

I love the Delta area :People are very welcoming, friendly and honest. Never gets cold like in Hanoi in winter. 

Danang is another option :Awesome city, great biking routes around. 

Vung Tau great too:tourist town but mainly Vietnamese tourist on weekends, otherwise quiet, although some overcharging of farang. 

In general, Vietnam should tick many of your boxes :Vegetarian restaurants everywhere, cheap gyms in all towns, no hassles with visa renewals etc 

If you interested I can send you some pics of my biking tours in Vietnam for a first impression/orientation 

Interesting that that you say that, because I've been doing a little research and so far Danang is the one place in Vietnam that I'm interested in checking out. Before I've only been to Hanoi and Halong Bay which was great as a tourist but wouldn't want to live there. I'm far from sold on Vietnam as a retirement destination though. They don't appear to offer any path to long term residence stability which is something that would be something I'd really want if I left Thailand (which doesn't either) for another country other than my home country.

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28 minutes ago, Jingthing said:

Interesting that that you say that, because I've been doing a little research and so far Danang is the one place in Vietnam that I'm interested in checking out. Before I've only been to Hanoi and Halong Bay which was great as a tourist but wouldn't want to live there. I'm far from sold on Vietnam as a retirement destination though. They don't appear to offer any path to long term residence stability which is something that would be something I'd really want if I left Thailand (which doesn't either) for another country other than my home country.

 

 

I enjoyed my my visit to Da Nang.... I also think that Hoi An is worth a look.

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