Yellowtail Posted May 23, 2019 Share Posted May 23, 2019 31 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said: Do please post on how you get on with the cutting as I haven't had the opportunity to try mine yet. Nibblers are generally great for contour cutting but suck for keeping a straight line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sometimewoodworker Posted May 23, 2019 Share Posted May 23, 2019 3 minutes ago, Yellowtail said: Nibblers are generally great for contour cutting but suck for keeping a straight line. That was generally why I was asking for a report! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gunderhill Posted May 31, 2019 Author Share Posted May 31, 2019 (edited) On 5/23/2019 at 7:44 AM, sometimewoodworker said: That was generally why I was asking for a report! Report is, cutter works fine, straight lines are no problem and it zips thru the corrugations, roof half on will be finished Sunday morning sometime. Update on Bluescope, they are clueless, dont know what the foam fillers are, thats if you can get thru to them, they dont answer their "contact us" e mail address either, total waste of space. The company supplying us are the same useless.stupid/careless dragging the sheets around, still got some scratches on some pieces but fairly minor, pretty appalled with the service all round...but "normal" Bought a Bosch gsr 18 li drill to run the bolts in, fine for the first day then it decides to keep cutting off after 16 bolts, seems it has some cut out in for the battery or something, useless thing really, shuts off continually and its not like Im putting in thousands of bolts, did 16 this afternoon before it started playing up, another pile of junk Ill take back when Im done. Edited May 31, 2019 by gunderhill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sometimewoodworker Posted June 1, 2019 Share Posted June 1, 2019 14 hours ago, gunderhill said: Bought a Bosch gsr 18 li drill to run the bolts in I'm not sure if that is an impact driver, if it isn't then it is probably the wrong tool for the job Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steven100 Posted June 1, 2019 Share Posted June 1, 2019 This is the tool for cutting metal roof sheeting .... a jigsaw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steven100 Posted June 1, 2019 Share Posted June 1, 2019 as for the overhang .... cut the sheet where you want the curve to start, then place the cut curve sheet under the long straight sheet, set it at your desired length then screw and fix in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayned Posted June 1, 2019 Share Posted June 1, 2019 48 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said: I'm not sure if that is an impact driver, if it isn't then it is probably the wrong tool for the job The drill is a standard drill with variable torque selectable settings, it does not have an impact function. It is the type of drill that you would want to properly drive the self threading screws. II don't understand why you think that the screws should be set with an impact driver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sometimewoodworker Posted June 1, 2019 Share Posted June 1, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, wayned said: The drill is a standard drill with variable torque selectable settings, it does not have an impact function. It is the type of drill that you would want to properly drive the self threading screws. II don't understand why you think that the screws should be set with an impact driver. A good impact driver, specifically the Hitachi WH18DDL, Makita DTD148 Makita DTD154 and Milwaukee M18 FID all have a self Tap mode specially designed for setting self drilling screws. The way they work is with an initial high speed that then slows down once through the support metal. I have the DT154 and for sure it will not be cutting out as your Bosch is. So the drill you have is either faulty or not the best tool to use for that job. Until I got the DT154 I also thought that a drill/driver was the bees knees, not any more. Edited June 1, 2019 by sometimewoodworker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fruit Trader Posted June 1, 2019 Share Posted June 1, 2019 17 hours ago, gunderhill said: Bought a Bosch gsr 18 li drill to run the bolts in, fine for the first day then it decides to keep cutting off after 16 bolts, seems it has some cut out in for the battery or something, Lithium power tool batteries have electronic protection circuits with some being more sensitive to high ambient temperature during work than others. If a battery can't dissipate load heat due to high ambient temperature the protection circuit will kick in. Be sure to keep the drill out of direct sunlight when not in use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gunderhill Posted June 1, 2019 Author Share Posted June 1, 2019 29 minutes ago, Fruit Trader said: Lithium power tool batteries have electronic protection circuits with some being more sensitive to high ambient temperature during work than others. If a battery can't dissipate load heat due to high ambient temperature the protection circuit will kick in. Be sure to keep the drill out of direct sunlight when not in use. In thinking it was heat related I stuck it in the fridge for an hour, it came out cold, 16 bolts later started cutting out, swapped battery and it worked, then stopped again, pulled battery off and on it worked again then stopped again, it also doesnt seem to like using the torque setting, ie drill at highish but not full speed then once the screw has bitten swap to a low torque setting and it will stop again. As soon as I'm done with the roof Im taking it back. It is better in the early morning at 30c but come the afternoon at 36+ thats when its useless so I reckon its a rather sensitive heat setting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wirejerker Posted June 1, 2019 Share Posted June 1, 2019 The driver drill is the wrong tool for the job. Get off the roof and get an Impact Driver. Your hands and wrists will thank you, your knees will thank you, the roof will thank you and it will be a professional job. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gunderhill Posted June 1, 2019 Author Share Posted June 1, 2019 3 hours ago, Wirejerker said: The driver drill is the wrong tool for the job. Get off the roof and get an Impact Driver. Your hands and wrists will thank you, your knees will thank you, the roof will thank you and it will be a professional job. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk too late am in the hospital with broken hands knees and feet 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wirejerker Posted June 1, 2019 Share Posted June 1, 2019 too late am in the hospital with broken hands knees and feetPlease I hope you are just pulling my chainSent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crossy Posted June 1, 2019 Share Posted June 1, 2019 45 minutes ago, Wirejerker said: Please I hope you are just pulling my chain So do I. I agree 100% on the impact driver, the only tool I now use for putting in (and taking out) screws and bolts (with a socket adaptor). Probably the best tool I've bought in years. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayned Posted June 1, 2019 Share Posted June 1, 2019 11 hours ago, Wirejerker said: The driver drill is the wrong tool for the job. Get off the roof and get an Impact Driver. Your hands and wrists will thank you, your knees will thank you, the roof will thank you and it will be a professional job. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk I would have to disagree. The DTH154 that sometimes woodworker described earlier that actually has a self tapping setting that starts out fast and once the screw is through the metal seems like the proper tool. Although he said that it is an impact driver I doubt that the Hammer function is engaged is this mode as once the screw is through the metal the self tapping function needs to be slow and steady speed to correctly tap the threads in the softer steel. Any hammering would tend to ruin the threads as they are tapped. My opinion from using hundreds of self tapping crews in the two houses that I have built here. Most of the time I drilled piolet holes to make the setting of the screw easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayned Posted June 1, 2019 Share Posted June 1, 2019 23 minutes ago, Crossy said: So do I. I agree 100% on the impact driver, the only tool I now use for putting in (and taking out) screws and bolts (with a socket adaptor). Probably the best tool I've bought in years. Do you use it for setting self tapping screws in metal without drilling a pilot hole first. I can see that it's good for driving screws and bpolts in holes that sre already threaded but not for statring and driving self tapping screws in metal with no pilot holes, The point of the screw must penetrate the metal ausually at a faster speed than the tapping of the hole using the threads on the screw. I have air impact wrenches but have never tried using them to drive self tapping screws. Guess it's time for a test to prove myself wrong! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crossy Posted June 1, 2019 Share Posted June 1, 2019 7 minutes ago, wayned said: Do you use it for setting self tapping screws in metal without drilling a pilot hole first. For self-drilling screws that is. Works like a dream. These chaps. We've put literally hundreds in our outhouse roofs straight into the steel structure. Regular self-tappers need a pilot hole of course. This is the chap I have, De-Walt DCF-815, runs fast like a drill whilst the hole is drilled, goes to impact mode when the threads start to bite. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayned Posted June 1, 2019 Share Posted June 1, 2019 6 minutes ago, Crossy said: For self-drilling screws that is. Works like a dream. These chaps. We've put literally hundreds in our outhouse roofs straight into the steel structure. Regular self-tappers need a pilot hole of course. Seems like when I got to a crossroad in this thread I went left and should have gone right. I seem to have gotten off the beaten path confusing self tapping with self threading. I have never really used many of the screws in your picture as my roof are held on the "old fashion" way with L shaped 1/4 " bolts with nuts on the outside of the roof. I only have used these to replace broken panels and have always drilled pilot holes. Time to experiment as I have some of these in the shop and small pieces of 4" "C" section after I replace the faucet in the kitchen, do the laundry and clean the house among other things. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crossy Posted June 1, 2019 Share Posted June 1, 2019 The self-drillers are available in many formats and sizes, probably the best way to screw into metal. Correct size hole drilled every time. I've got some that cut a "real" thread that you can put a regular bolt into if you wish as well as the coarse things in my photo. And a handy-dandy comparison of self-tapping, self-drilling and self-piercing screws. https://www.allpointsfasteners.com/FAQ.html Of course all three types are often called "self-tapping", just to confuse. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crossy Posted June 2, 2019 Share Posted June 2, 2019 IMPORTANT NOTE An impact driver does not apply an in-out hammering action like a hammer drill does. It provides a rotating impact force which helps drive the screw with almost no torque fed back to the user (relying on the inertia of the tool). Great for those getting older who don't have the wrist strength they had in the past, and of course those inserting a lot of screws. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sometimewoodworker Posted June 2, 2019 Share Posted June 2, 2019 (edited) 3 hours ago, wayned said: Do you use it for setting self tapping screws in metal without drilling a pilot hole first. I can see that it's good for driving screws and bpolts in holes that sre already threaded but not for statring and driving self tapping screws in metal with no pilot holes, The point of the screw must penetrate the metal ausually at a faster speed than the tapping of the hole using the threads on the screw. I have air impact wrenches but have never tried using them to drive self tapping screws. Guess it's time for a test to prove myself wrong! An air impact wrench is unlikely to work well. The battery impact wrenches have a far more sophisticated sense system. They spin at high speed to drill the initial hole, slow down for the threading phase (using the impact function if the resistance is enough), then stop before stripping the thread. You can do some or all of that yourself with an air impact but need very good reflexes, practice and concentration something that you can do for a couple of self drillers but probably not for a couple of hundred. From the linked page Quote Self-Drilling Screws Similar to sheet metal screws, but they have a drill-shaped point to cut through sheet metal or steel which eliminates the need for drilling a pilot hole. These self-drilling screws are designed for use in soft steel or other metals.Self-drilling screw points are numbered from 1 through 5, the larger the number, the thicker metal it can go through without a pilot hole. A 5 point can drill a 0.5 in (13 mm) of steel, for example. Edited June 2, 2019 by sometimewoodworker 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayned Posted June 2, 2019 Share Posted June 2, 2019 9 minutes ago, Crossy said: IMPORTANT NOTE An impact driver does not apply an in-out hammering action like a hammer drill does. It provides a rotating impact force which helps drive the screw with almost no torque fed back to the user (relying on the inertia of the tool). Great for those getting older who don't have the wrist strength they had in the past, and of course those inserting a lot of screws. Yep. it's embarrasing to go into 7-11 and buy a drink in a plastic bottle and have to ask the clerk to open it for yopu because you don't have the grip strength to open it yourself! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sometimewoodworker Posted June 2, 2019 Share Posted June 2, 2019 2 hours ago, Crossy said: I've got some that cut a "real" thread that you can put a regular bolt into if you wish as well as the coarse things in my photo. Do you have self drilling screws screws that do that? I have some Taptite that have a trilobular thread pattern which forms a thread during insertion. But haven't seen any self drilling thread forming screws. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crossy Posted June 2, 2019 Share Posted June 2, 2019 56 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said: Do you have self drilling screws screws that do that? I have some Taptite that have a trilobular thread pattern which forms a thread during insertion. But haven't seen any self drilling thread forming screws. Yup. Nut included for illustrative purposes only ???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gunderhill Posted June 2, 2019 Author Share Posted June 2, 2019 18 hours ago, Wirejerker said: Please I hope you are just pulling my chain Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Tightly around your neck???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gunderhill Posted June 3, 2019 Author Share Posted June 3, 2019 Done ,just got to add the front and side pieces, bolted every single rib, it aint going nowhere as Ive seen the hurricanes that occasionally happen here just out of the blue usually before a storm. Now you can see the correct overhang which i was after, water runs straight into the middle of the ditch. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sometimewoodworker Posted June 5, 2019 Share Posted June 5, 2019 On 6/2/2019 at 9:05 AM, Crossy said: Yup. Nut included for illustrative purposes only ???? Did you get that one in Thailand? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brona Tony Posted June 12, 2019 Share Posted June 12, 2019 Its look okk there is not a big problem and moreover with this your garage will be safe from sun rays and your wall be safe from water Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaemus Posted June 13, 2019 Share Posted June 13, 2019 On 5/19/2019 at 8:57 AM, gunderhill said: Ok anyone know about the FOAM fillers ive seen go between the edge section where it joins the roof matched to the shape of the profile? hi mate. I hope you bought a nibbler or power shear or even offset snips to cut your Sheets. Friction Wheels as well as invalidating the warrenty will spray tiny hot fragment all over the sheet and penetrate the top layer and the panel will rust in tiny spots. Roof sheets are fixed on the peak. at suitable centre based on wind loading and structural design. Wall sheet are fixed in the pan. fasteners should be the best you can afford. Thai fasteners are not so good. i used Bremicks. I have a colorbond roof here in Thailand, which i installed myself, My sheets came from Australia, Thicker and nicer colour pallet. I can help you with your barge flashing if you need. Shaemus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crossy Posted June 13, 2019 Share Posted June 13, 2019 On 6/5/2019 at 2:01 PM, sometimewoodworker said: Did you get that one in Thailand? Sorry about the delay responding. Yup that one came from MegaHome but I've found others in HomePro too. Brand is "CTdecor" Take the photo ???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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