Cutting steel roof panels

[gunderhill]

10 minutes ago, wayned said:

The extra overhag on the side can be corrected by overlapping the panels more.  The over hag on the front can be corrected in one of two ways,:

1. cutting the panels to the correct lenght usinf an angle grinder with a steel cutting blade

2. extending the existin by welding extensionds onto the existing rafters. 

 

I would choose option two as there is never too much overhang.

It  seems you haven't read the issue at the start, the rainwater runs into a gulley off the roof and therefore has to be a certain length otherwise it  falls outside the gulley partially, this will only happen in heavy rain but thats when you most need it.

There are NO  overlaps its a single 5  metre  long un-jointed  panel, snips not  cutting wheel is best for 1, no heat involved, 2 no metal dust which will cause rust  later 3  no  burring of edges,4 warranty is  kept intact.

You can however cut with a  special steel (toothed blade )  wheel not the thin metal types (if  thats what you meant?)  normally used here for  cutting metal.

No extension of  roof  metal  for reason of  gulley below.

Edited May 18, 2019 by gunderhill

[gunderhill]

Ive got a  few  days before this gets sorted out to decide, Ive ordered one of the nibblers Sometimewoodworker showed they are cheap 4-500 baht attach to a  drill if  necessary Ill  shorten the ends myself, the fear being  the  supplier  (80km away)  will 1. do nothing say its my fault (theyve already tried this) 2.  collection and them cutting leads to more damage on return.

Need to see now if they wat to be really stupid and say we damaged the one panel oursleves, wouldnt be surprised, when Im done ill be contacting the manufacturer here to let them know how  well their  suppliers are doing as you cant name or shame here.

Does anyone know if they do foam eaves  fillers here for this type profile to slip under the high point where the edge moldings  go?

I see  some cut the moldings to the shape of the troughs valleys.

[wayned]

40 minutes ago, gunderhill said:

It  seems you haven't read the issue at the start, the rainwater runs into a gulley off the roof and therefore has to be a certain length otherwise it  falls outside the gulley partially, this will only happen in heavy rain but thats when you most need it.

There are NO  overlaps its a single 5  metre  long un-jointed  panel, snips not  cutting wheel is best for 1, no heat involved, 2 no metal dust which will cause rust  later 3  no  burring of edges,4 warranty is  kept intact.

You can however cut with a  special steel (toothed blade )  wheel not the thin metal types (if  thats what you meant?)  normally used here for  cutting metal.

No extension of  roof  metal  for reason of  gulley below.

I went back and read the OP but there was nothing there about the gulley.  I found it later on.  I will go on to say that the large overhang on the front is great but yopu need to extend the rafters as that much unsupported overhang can cause you real grief in heavy wind conditions  We did a similar thing with the roof of our weigh station and one day the wind really blew and the entire roof was ripped off.  If the supplier is local why don't you mark the panels where you want them cut an take them to him to cut them?

[sometimewoodworker]

7 hours ago, Kwasaki said:

 

7 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said:

If you don't have the KLIP-LOK  system then it is usually through the ridge, the fasteners you have are not designed for valley fixing, you can get everything you need here Manual for installation

 

 

Remember this isnt corrugated iron type sheeting.

 

 

It is bluescope. That picture is from them!

[sometimewoodworker]

2 hours ago, gunderhill said:

Here its done by the Thais  usually thru the ridge but I really think this is wrong, Ive seen a  lot of roofs done with it thru the  flats,

Ridge/peak fasting is not wrong, it is different. Both positions are listed by bluescope.

 

It depends on the fasteners you have. Did you read the 68 page manual I linked to? It is from bluescope and details the fasteners required for valley and peak fixing.

 

You need to post a picture of the fasteners you have before it is obvious if you have valley or peak fasteners. 

 

They are different and if you try using peak fasteners in valleys you will have problems. 

Edited May 19, 2019 by sometimewoodworker

[lopburi3]

2 hours ago, wayned said:

2. extending the existin by welding extensionds onto the existing rafters. 

 

I would choose option two as there is never too much overhang.

He feels rain will be directed too far from drain if extended.  I would go with extensions and add gutter drains as this would be cheap and also decrease the noise which seems to be an issue - rather than allowing to splash and blow all over the place.

[Yellowtail]

If your going to use a nibbler make sure you use a solid fence/guide as nibbling a straight line is near impossible. 

 

I assume if you trim it after installed you can use the fascia 

 

Be sure to practice a little before you make the actual cut, nibbling profiles can be tricky.

 

 

[gunderhill]

53 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said:

 

It is bluescope. That picture is from them!

Seems to be some confusion here, Kwasaki was replying to corrugated I wasnt talking about that I was talking about fasteners, for me "corrugated iron" is the stuff we get in the UK I know this profile is corrugated but I was referring to corrugated iron type  roofing . Bluescope  havent been too useful, they never responded to my emails or  called my Wife back, dont think much of their service so far.

[gunderhill]

14 minutes ago, lopburi3 said:

He feels rain will be directed too far from drain if extended.  I would go with extensions and add gutter drains as this would be cheap and also decrease the noise which seems to be an issue - rather than allowing to splash and blow all over the place.

The  whole point is for torrential rain to just pour into the  gulley I dont want to add gutters or extra  metal, noise isnt an issue (it was but thats why I added the foam) as the roof has the foam backed insulation on it,

[gunderhill]

1 hour ago, wayned said:

I went back and read the OP but there was nothing there about the gulley.  I found it later on.  I will go on to say that the large overhang on the front is great but yopu need to extend the rafters as that much unsupported overhang can cause you real grief in heavy wind conditions  We did a similar thing with the roof of our weigh station and one day the wind really blew and the entire roof was ripped off.  If the supplier is local why don't you mark the panels where you want them cut an take them to him to cut them?

One of the reasons the overhang was made SHORT was for the wind issues, the other was its the correct distance to let water  fall straight into the  gulley.

[gunderhill]

51 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said:

Ridge/peak fasting is not wrong, it is different. Both positions are listed by bluescope.

 

It depends on the fasteners you have. Did you read the 68 page manual I linked to? It is from bluescope and details the fasteners required for valley and peak fixing.

 

You need to post a picture of the fasteners you have before it is obvious if you have valley or peak fasteners. 

 

They are different and if you try using peak fasteners in valleys you will have problems. 

Ive got the peak fasteners  and plan to fasten on the peaks I was  just seeing how MOST roofers  do it in Australia as Thais arent well known for doing things correctly and often copy a learnt mistake forever. Please dont say "this isnt Australia" as Im 100%  sure the same conditions will prevail there especially up in Darwin.

[gunderhill]

59 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said:

Did you read the 68 page manual

Partly havent been all thru it yet (thanks) that explains exactly about the screw head position valley or crest which is what I was looking for about 6  posts  back.

Edited May 19, 2019 by gunderhill

[gunderhill]

Ok anyone know about the FOAM  fillers ive seen go between the edge section where it  joins  the roof matched to the shape of the profile?

[Yellowtail]

3 minutes ago, gunderhill said:

Ok anyone know about the FOAM  fillers ive seen go between the edge section where it  joins  the roof matched to the shape of the profile?

As the profile is likely proprietary you may want to contact BlueScope.

 

Or you could use the squirt & expand foam which acts as an adhesive as well. 

[gunderhill]

4 minutes ago, Yellowtail said:

As the profile is likely proprietary you may want to contact BlueScope.

 

Or you could use the squirt & expand foam which acts as an adhesive as well. 

Yeah havent  found Bluescope  too  helpful at all, will ask Wife to  call them again, wont use the foam it  will exert too much pressure and force the profile up, its faster easier to ask here. Bluescopes page COLORBOND doesnt even have the manual for installation and they use a bewildering number of variants for roofing "shimmer" and about 4  others, no sign of the KLIPLOK system they used to have and no e mail reply when I asked them either, went with the boltdown for  ease an availability.

[Kwasaki]

7 hours ago, gunderhill said:

  I don't  want an overhang that large as (already mentioned) rainwater will run off straight into a 1  metre wide drainage  channel, the extra length now means rainwater in a downpour  will run onto an area I dont want it to.

Heres  a  panel I dropped on yesterday  to see how it  looked, now fasteners thru the  valleys or thru the ridges of the sheets?

Ok good pix understand what your at now and is simple and straight-forward.

This is a low degree pitched lean-too construction.

It still has what is termed ridge & eave.

 

Can you not lose the 9 cm at the top of slope location. ?

 

It is good practice and mostly preferred by Architects to fasten a single skin corrugated roof sheet through the top of the formed corrugation

(what you refer to as ridge) with a self drilling rubber sealed washer type screw fixing.

 

Make sure any metal drilling debris is cleaned off of roof surface.

 

Fix at every cover roll lapping position except first sheet to allow for bargeboard flashing's if any.

Then you can alternate fixing of every other top of roll intermediate positions at purlin spacing's across sheet width and up roof. 

I'll do a sketch if want but those vids you posted are for a different profile roof sheet, you can fix on the flat valley part of the profile sheet if you want but it's bad practice in my experience.  

  

[gunderhill]

8 minutes ago, Kwasaki said:

Can you not lose the 9 cm at the top of slope location. ?

Nope  dont want it any closer to the tree at the front to allow for wind when the tree  moves, If they dont cut it (remember its sunday and no answer saturday Wife  will call em monday) Im going to cut it with the nibblers, ordered already (have tin snips but its  easier with nibblers).

I have a leaf  blower for clearing off  after drilling in the screws. Ive done some roofing before Conc tile and asbestos type  sheet its not an issue really but never in steel.

I finished my blockwork a  few days  ago and really wanted to get on with the roof  until they screwed it  up.

Edited May 19, 2019 by gunderhill

[lopburi3]

1 minute ago, gunderhill said:

If they dont cut it (remember its sunday and no answer saturday Wife  will call em monday) Im going to cut it with the nibblers,

You are aware Monday is a holiday here in Thailand?  As was Saturday.  Expect better chance of answer Tuesday if you can hold off.

[gunderhill]

1 minute ago, lopburi3 said:

You are aware Monday is a holiday here in Thailand?  As was Saturday.  Expect better chance of answer Tuesday if you can hold off.

Doesnt really matter 1-2  days, Id ask the Wife but she's  about aware of Thai holidays as I am.

[grollies]

Just out of interest, why did you go with sheet steel instead of cement tile?

[Yellowtail]

20 minutes ago, grollies said:

Just out of interest, why did you go with sheet steel instead of cement tile?

Not enough slope?

[grollies]

23 minutes ago, Yellowtail said:

Not enough slope?

Nah, loads of slope on that roof. My pool roof is only around 10% slope, cement tile, works a treat.

[Yellowtail]

14 minutes ago, grollies said:

Nah, loads of slope on that roof. My pool roof is only around 10% slope, cement tile, works a treat.

Why did you go with cement tile rather than sheet-steel?

[gunderhill]

1 hour ago, grollies said:

Just out of interest, why did you go with sheet steel instead of cement tile?

Roof  pitch would have meant  much longer  columns and at 4+ metres they were awkward  enough and heavy enough as they are the LARGE  diameter ones.

Its  only a  garage albeit 12mX 4m, I like the steel and being lightweight also helps with construction, dont have to go crazy with roof  steel.

[gunderhill]

1 hour ago, grollies said:

Nah, loads of slope on that roof. My pool roof is only around 10% slope, cement tile, works a treat.

80cm fall over 4  metres aint a lot, it was past the limit for cement  tiles  according to manufacturers and I didnt want to do it and then have leaks in driving rain.

[grollies]

10 hours ago, gunderhill said:

Roof  pitch would have meant  much longer  columns and at 4+ metres they were awkward  enough and heavy enough as they are the LARGE  diameter ones.

Its  only a  garage albeit 12mX 4m, I like the steel and being lightweight also helps with construction, dont have to go crazy with roof  steel.

Bet it's driving you crazy now?

[grollies]

10 hours ago, gunderhill said:

80cm fall over 4  metres aint a lot, it was past the limit for cement  tiles  according to manufacturers and I didnt want to do it and then have leaks in driving rain.

Yeah, I meant 10 deg 20% slope. We just put in more overlap. Those 4m posts are heavyyyy.

[gunderhill]

So in true "Thai style customer nonexistant service" the result is the company whom of  course cant be named  (but there are only 2  blusecope dealers in Prachuap Khirikhan) told us they will replace the one damaged 5m  panel "free" ( oh thank you, thank you sooo much) but not the four short edge 3 and 1.5m (Thai logic fathom it if you can)  cappings.............oh and we  must pay delivery of 1000 baht........the irony is their delivery driver damaged it all!!

And people wonder where my attitude towards Thailand stems from over 14 years.

Want anything done here, do it yourself, do it once do it right, never  rely on the Thais for anything, there is no trust here at all, surprised we werent told we'd caused the damage ourselves..

As for the length being wrong....simple they say, just cut them all down!!! Christ how they actually stay in business let alone stay competitive, still in a country that doesnt want foreign workers probably for the fear of  having the floor wiped by them, not hard when you see 10 Thais doing a job that could be done by 2 normal people.

If you want the name of who not to buy from PM me, another joy of  "Amazing"Thailand its ridiculous libel laws.

Reminds me of a friend who had a  big ( I mean BIG  millions of U.S$) jewellery co who had it manufactured here  and  the Thais he worked with tried to bypass him and deal direct with Walmart, ending with kidnapping extortion and eventually death............"dont Thai to me"

Wife  calling anyone who will listen to complain, doubt anything will happen.

[bwpage3]

That disc will go through that panel like butter.

[sometimewoodworker]

On 5/19/2019 at 5:27 AM, gunderhill said:

Ive got a  few  days before this gets sorted out to decide, Ive ordered one of the nibblers Sometimewoodworker showed they are cheap 4-500 baht attach to a  drill if  necessary Ill  shorten the ends myself,

Do please post on how you get on with the cutting as I haven't had the opportunity to try mine yet.