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The haunting: Return of the gas log fire.


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Posted

Well it's nearing our few cold days here in Isaan, so I thought I'd better finish putting in the flue for the fireplace.

 

This 'rush project' (about 4 or 5 years now I think, can't find the origional thread), was either going to be completed or scrapped. 'Completed' won my vote but the better half ....well they can't see the benefits for the mess.

 

Unfortunately a chiminey is necessary to vent the fumes, and unfortunately wifey had the fireplace enclosed while I was away...so now I've gotta break it open to install the flue. So plan D (up to plan D now), is to cut a channel in the tiles/bricks/steel from the metal top of the fireplace to the wall, then assemble the fireplace and flue, slide it all back in, then cut a hole in the cavity wall to allow the flue to exit.

 

My question is: what type of sealer or silicon can I use between the stainless flue and the cavity wall? The sealant has to be heat resistant (the flue has 2 pipes, a smaller one for the burnt gas and the outside stainless one) and waterproof to stop the rain getting in.

 

Some other info: the flue specifications must have a certain rise to run ratio(so the book says) and it won't run unvented (tried that) due to safety cutout.

20191013_063829.jpg20191013_063815.jpg20191013_063842.jpg20191011_085615.jpg

 

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Posted

I would go and buy a fan-heater :whistling:

 

Most of the "experts" use a regular sand/cement mortar to seal to the outside wall. Regular wall filler if there's any tidying on the inside.

 

EDIT And don't forget to install CO (carbon monoxide) detector in the room.

Posted

An alternative is build a wall around the flu going up to the ceiling. Then the flu can go in the cavity. No need to go through / seal the external wall and the flu stays totally hidden and goes straight up with no bends. This wall could be made of cement board and have the same stone fascia as the fireplace to improve the look to that of a brick fireplace & chimney.

 

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Posted

But, that´s perfect. Coming to stay in Thailand and build a fire place? Sounds to me like you would do better trying to sell ice on the North Pole. Cheers!

It ain´t that cold.

Posted
An alternative is build a wall around the flu going up to the ceiling. Then the flu can go in the cavity. No need to go through / seal the external wall and the flu stays totally hidden and goes straight up with no bends. This wall could be made of cement board and have the same stone fascia as the fireplace to improve the look to that of a brick fireplace & chimney.
 
Trouble is I've gotta vaulted (think that's what they call it) ceiling. It's a long way up there, and as SWMBO reminds me about not being able to reach the spider webs.
I think if I channel out the tiles all the way to the wall, I can push the fireplace and flue back and put the TV in front to hide the flue and only move the TV for the weeks around Christmas. I've gotta redo the front tiling anyway as they're only tile pictures of bricks. Horrible job, I should have just knocked the whole lot down and put the fireplace out in the shed.20191013_100817.jpg

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Posted
Once its all working, you can toast some bread,crumpets or marshmallow by the fireside.
Or sit round the log fire in my undies drinking red wine.

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Posted
But, that´s perfect. Coming to stay in Thailand and build a fire place? Sounds to me like you would do better trying to sell ice on the North Pole. Cheers!

It ain´t that cold.
We get those cold winds blowing across the plains from China around Chrissy and it is cold. Can't remember exactly but think it get to arould 9 degrees C or less. That's cold for me and the Isaan people have 3 coats on by then.

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Posted
Be sure to look up the "rules" for length and relief from roof else it might not draft properly.  And, don't forget the "cap".
No gotta cap...just cealing the walls is my main worry.

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Posted

I use a woolly jumper for the few 'cold days' (those that descend below 200C). Less work, less pollution and zero running costs.

 

Sorry O/P, not knocking you. ???? . Enjoy your fireside days.

 

 

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Posted
I would go and buy a fan-heater :whistling:
 
Most of the "experts" use a regular sand/cement mortar to seal to the outside wall. Regular wall filler if there's any tidying on the inside.
 
EDIT And don't forget to install CO (carbon monoxide) detector in the room.
It's got a detector in it, and switches the gas off now if I assemble it with the glass door on.
You're the one that has caused all this grief by telling me to put the flue on, and I always do what you say....eventually. Better to be safe.
In the old days in Aus we had a gas fire heater and and they vented into the loungeroom. That's how they were set up. Just left a window open near the heater.

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Posted
I would go and buy a fan-heater :whistling:
 
Most of the "experts" use a regular sand/cement mortar to seal to the outside wall. Regular wall filler if there's any tidying on the inside.
 
EDIT And don't forget to install CO (carbon monoxide) detector in the room.
Is the sand/cement going to seal around the SS pipe?
Maybe I need a square section of SS with a hole for the flue and a 4 cm return on the SS hole on the outside wall with some heat resistant silicon.

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Posted
21 minutes ago, carlyai said:

Is the sand/cement going to seal around the SS pipe?

 

That's what the gas guys say in the UK, get it all fixed so it's not going to move or vibrate before putting in the mortar and you should be good. You could use fire-resistant foam too.

 

Don't over-think these things or it will be another 5 years ????

 

Now, about that fan-heater ...

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

You do realize that a fireplace may not obviate the ritual that just has to be done:  Put on Eskimo suit, go out and start the sticky rice, as soon as you see your neighbor say "NOW".  Your neighbor says "NOW" both to you and her neighbor and it goes around the village (like a stadium "wave") until it returns and start again.  It's important to keep the conversation to just one word:  NOW.

 

At some point, someone will start a fire and it's time to eat sticky rice.

Edited by bankruatsteve
  • Like 1
Posted
isaan.jpg.db4932f0270d277127f20f5471f70b63.jpg
Maxpower ...good one :). Can you make me up a headline: Navy hiring only katoys for it's submarine fleet?

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Posted

Well fire and flue attached. Seems to work venting into the room and not switched off. Will put the logs on and give it a final 'all assembled' test. Then tomorrow make wifey more happyier and cut the tiles, bricks, steel out and hole in the wall.

I'm good at using the old repaired vacuum cleaners to suck up most of the drilled cement dust cause I get into less trouble.

 

 

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Edit

 

Picture20191014_112019.jpg

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Posted

Well there you go!

So I take the flue off for tomorrow's demolition work...and it all falls to bits[emoji21] Looks like the stainless inner tube was never welded but silver soldered?

What would possess a person to solder a flue that's going to get hot?
After 4 or 5 years my warranty period is probably over.

Getting intouch with my SS man back in the UK for some sense.




20191014_155540.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
Well there you go!

So I take the flue off for tomorrow's demolition work...and it all falls to bits[emoji21] Looks like the stainless inner tube was never welded but silver soldered?

What would possess a person to solder a flue that's going to get hot?
After 4 or 5 years my warranty period is probably over.

Getting intouch with my SS man back in the UK for some sense.




20191014_155540.jpg.aa60af78aabe947d583ac4c8829a54be.jpg

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Much later...me thinks that maybe it was a bad soldered joint, so going to cut out concrete and hole in the cavity wall and fire it up again.



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  • 1 month later...

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