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How exactly does earth grounding work in a building

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4 hours ago, xtrnuno41 said:

Totally agree with you. The placing of an earth rod, resistance, should be measured.

Only then the rod can do its work properly. If not then you are in danger again.

Depending on soil(moist) to place rod in, you need to get deeper, until resistance is real low.

 

Ive seen the rods, metal/copper plated. Its cheaper and they are about 1.5 meters each.

Maybe you need 10 of them or even 20. You need to measure.

See movies on youtube about grounding. For instance this one: 

They show measuring in several ways.

 

However being coated metal , the rod can corrode in time and you loose the ground.

Better to use all copper rods, it lasts longer and so your safety.

To be more safer , wise to use RCBO's.

A difference of 30 mA between live and neutral, shuts down the power.

It means you have a power leak.

 

Even then you could die. It all depends on time you are exposed to 30 mA and what is the situation.

Your body is salty, you sweat, skin condition, you stand on an isolator (shoe) or in water and of course your heart condition.

Under estimating electrical power could cost lives in a jiffy. Beware. 

You can also run a strip earth if the soil is too dry, the construction of the building doesn't allow for one or just plain old aethstetics 

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  • bankruatsteve
    bankruatsteve

    I would run an earth bus from the top to the bottom and connect to rod.  Connect the bus to each floor CU as your go or all at the same time, whatever.

  • Every ground prong or ground connection to equipment (water heater, aircon etc) must get back, eventually, to the rod.   How it gets there depends upon how you wire the building.  

  • Why are you not replacing the existing boxes?   if I were going to that much time and money I would upgrade the boxes as well. 

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58 minutes ago, MadMuhammad said:
5 hours ago, xtrnuno41 said:

Totally agree with you. The placing of an earth rod, resistance, should be measured.

Only then the rod can do its work properly. If not then you are in danger again.

Depending on soil(moist) to place rod in, you need to get deeper, until resistance is real low.

 

Ive seen the rods, metal/copper plated. Its cheaper and they are about 1.5 meters each.

Maybe you need 10 of them or even 20. You need to measure.

See movies on youtube about grounding. For instance this one: 

They show measuring in several ways.

 

However being coated metal , the rod can corrode in time and you loose the ground.

Better to use all copper rods, it lasts longer and so your safety.

To be more safer , wise to use RCBO's.

A difference of 30 mA between live and neutral, shuts down the power.

It means you have a power leak.

 

Even then you could die. It all depends on time you are exposed to 30 mA and what is the situation.

Your body is salty, you sweat, skin condition, you stand on an isolator (shoe) or in water and of course your heart condition.

Under estimating electrical power could cost lives in a jiffy. Beware. 

You can also run a strip earth if the soil is too dry, the construction of the building doesn't allow for one or just plain old aethstetics

Or as many do add a bonding to the UFER ground provided by your building.

On 3/1/2020 at 10:51 PM, Mises said:

Yes, electrical devices cannot be sold in the UK without a fitted fused plug.  And, of course the fuse has to be the correct rating for the device.

 

There are downsides to all this though.  Even if you have a degree in electrical engineering or, in my case, the ability to wire a 3 phase industrial unit safely through experience, it is illegal to fit in your own home an extra socket on a spur off the ring main unless you have a stupid piece of paper from some electrical federation or whatever. It's the same as the legal and medical profession protecting their monopoly.

 

The ultimate stupidity in the UK is PAT testing (Google it) whereby in a commercial environment you have to pay once a year an approved person £2-5 to plug, say your phone charger, with its plastic earth pin in a testing device to record any earth leakage. Well guess what, the result will be zero and the approved guy sticks a sticker on the plug and plans his next holiday to the caribbean because he can do 30-60 an hour, Dito double insulated electrical appliances.

quite agree I have worked in nuclear power stations, offshore etc and because I didn't have part p or whatever it is I couldn't sign off my own work in my own house even though in worldwide commissioning was signing off 3 phase switchgear testing. I am safer than a kitchen fitter or carpenter to wire a spur. the electrical industry discovered how much the gas industry was making from training. I was Corgi registered for industrial gas installations but it wouldn't allow me to work on domestic equipment. when I did my corgi course there were 3 industrial and 3 domestic doing the course and the 3 domestic plumbers did not want to do it and it showed in the test results, 1st time on course you can fail tests 3 times without being kicked off, renewals was 2 times. pat testing is <deleted>, it's snake oil selling when you have a brand new CE certified device and you go on to a site and it has to be pat tested?. the only place i have been that's more stupid than the UK is Aus, I couldn't even switch a breaker off because i wasn't qualified in Aus and the more stupid thing is you could be qualified in east Aus but if you weren't qualified in west Aus you couldn't do the same job and the Aussie guys tried to say the UK was worse.

 

ps I was representing one of the biggest electrical engineering companies in the world, I was working for a vendor.

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