40 minutes ago, albertik said:

 

Put a timer in the 15m 220 supply to the in ground pump. Then it will only come on, say , once per day or twice if once is not enough. Might need an additional  relay if the pump draw is bigger than the timer can handle. 

BTW The pump is quite happy starting and stopping. It doesn't care.

1 hour ago, albertik said:

This makes life much easier though there is still one question remanning

 

3)If the back door switch to turn on/off the supply pump is a single pole or double pole switch. (How many wires going into the switch)

 

1) buy a Somic switch 

2) buy at least 50 meters of 2.5mm cable

3) fit the Somic to the tank as shown.

4) run 2 cable’s from the A terminals in the somic to the switch by the door.

 

now comes the interesting part.

 

if the door switch is a single pole switch (1 wire in 1 wire out) it is simple, connect the cables from the Somic, 1 to the in and 1 to the out.

job finished, success. U O me a virtual beer. (Just monitor the new wires when the pump is running to make sure the are not getting to hot)

 

if there are more than 2 wires going to that switch then it’s a more complicated install as you will need to add a contactor and power for that.

 

 

^ I understood he didn't want any extra yellow conduit. 

10 minutes ago, VocalNeal said:

^ I understood he didn't want any extra yellow conduit. 

I think it was no extra power points, and this doesn’t add any if his door switch is a single pole one.

Another solution using existing power supply. No new cable runs around the property required.

This simple method will control the storage tank fill using float switch and electrically operated valve. The level at where the tank stops and starts filling will be set by the float spacing.

 

When the solenoid valve opens the supply pump will start via its pressure switch. When storage tank reaches set level the solenoid valve will close and supply pump will stop.

 

The existing ball cock can be left in place as a safety back up.

All items for this solution are readily available.

 

Turns out that the switch at the back door supplies more that 1 circuit (the pump and an outside fan). Evidently that makes it a double pole switch.  Not sure about that but ok as I did not want to run more wiring anyway.

I think Mr. Fruit Trader has shown me the solution I was seeking. Thank you for that, Mr. Trader. I am unclear as to how to set the float spacing but I am guessing that it will become clearer when I can see the components up close and personal. Now in search of the components.

Sincere Thanks to all for your suggestions. By the way I owe several folks a virtual beer.

Ok as I’m currently on about 40 hours of a power cut (a tornado/s took out a couple of km of power poles) so my battery’s are low I’ll bow out.

 

TTFN

4 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said:

Ok as I’m currently on about 40 hours of a power cut (a tornado/s took out a couple of km of power poles) so my battery’s are low I’ll bow out.

 

TTFN

Hope you get powered up soon  Thanks again for your input.. BTW Where do you live (generally speaking) Nashville?

" Now in search of the components. "

 

Please let us know where you obtain the solenoid valve.

 

Note: if the 220vac version is more expensive than a 12vdc version, you can just add a cheap 12vdc wall wart to the design.

 

Note: our house has city water and a simple tank & pump arrangement, but the mooban has a swimming pool with exactly the same cycling problem you have described. It's pretty rough on the well pump. If I could find a mechanical differential float valve for a decent price, that would be my choice. Otherwise, I think the differential sensor and solenoid is simple and cheap enough and I'll go for it. 

17 minutes ago, mahjongguy said:

" Now in search of the components. "

 

Please let us know where you obtain the solenoid valve.

 

Note: if the 220vac version is more expensive than a 12vdc version, you can just add a cheap 12vdc wall wart to the design.

 

Note: our house has city water and a simple tank & pump arrangement, but the mooban has a swimming pool with exactly the same cycling problem you have described. It's pretty rough on the well pump. If I could find a mechanical differential float valve for a decent price, that would be my choice. Otherwise, I think the differential sensor and solenoid is simple and cheap enough and I'll go for it. 

Located the components (liquid level control switch and solenoid valve) on Lazada but will also try to source them locally. I just realized that I already have the control switch I had used years ago; don't know if it is still operational. Duhhhhh. Gonna get my local guy for the installation.

Mr. Fruit Trader, if you're still out there.....

I have 1 more question.  Am I correct to assume that the solenoid  valve is normally closed, and is then opened only when called for by the float switch?

Thanks

You buy a NC one. (normally closed) That way it will fail closed. 

 

Float switch may support both. Ie. closed or open at low level, etc.

22 hours ago, albertik said:

Mr. Fruit Trader, if you're still out there.....

I have 1 more question.  Am I correct to assume that the solenoid  valve is normally closed, and is then opened only when called for by the float switch?

Thanks

You are correct.

Normally closed valve 220V should cost around 400 Baht supplied in TH