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Citrus trees now.

Featured Replies

  • Popular Post

Hi, first of all I will apologise for being late but I’ve been very busy.

ok so now we have citrus trees, all on good rootstock and pest free trees.

 

Dekapon orange

vietnamese red pomelo

siam ruby pomelo

hanny orange (Thai)

pink lemon variegated

kumquat

clementine

shogun orange

penn lime (kings project)

chiang orange(Thai)

sorento lemon

eureka lemon

blood lime

verona lemon

spanish Lisbon lemon

assam lemon

finger lime tasty green.

 

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Can you handle the logistics to Sisaket? Do not fancy intra-provincial travel but interested in the trees?

 

Nice looking tree farm pics, green everywhere. I am in Nongbualamphu and tried the market tree sales but the 2 mangosteen trees withered up and died even after building shade tents. Do you have them and any nurturing advice?

Nice! 

I'm curious, what pest and disease issues to you encounter in your nursery and how to you manage these? Psyllid/HLB, leaf miner, mealybug, canker, crown rot, etc. 

 

Are you willing to share info on your container soil medium, fertilization, pest and disease prevention program? 

  • Author
10 hours ago, drtreelove said:

Nice! 

I'm curious, what pest and disease issues to you encounter in your nursery and how to you manage these? Psyllid/HLB, leaf miner, mealybug, canker, crown rot, etc. 

 

Are you willing to share info on your container soil medium, fertilization, pest and disease prevention program? 

Hi Drtreelove.

for pests I spray every 2 week with a molasses based mix of Em, neem oil, seaweed extract and soap it keeps most pests in check. I had a problem with what I found to be a matalic borer a year or so ago constant spraying has sorted it, I believe the em kills the larvae. I just had a big outbreak of thrifts and had to go a little stronger to kill it off so used ambectin once then back to the neem and that’s sorted it.

leaf miner is not so bad on the finger lime and I’ve found they love nice young pomelo leaves over other citrus so keep some young pomelo around.

Only canker I’ve had is from trees I’ve had has been on young trees or rootstock I’ve had sent in.... I remove and burn them.

soil mix in the baskets I use my soil, sand, rice husk, burned rice husk, coco cior, coco husk... ad manure for orange lemon lime and pomelo but not for finger lime... no manure for finger lime.

keeping up with the spray is important and Spray everywhere trunk and all dripping wet.

ive found it much better to grow all citrus on for a year or so in the baskets then plant out start of rainy season when the tree is a nice size and much stronger.

Does your 'mix' kill black ants also?

 

Do you have a list of trees available in Thai language, please, Mrs F wants to know?

 

Thanks

 

 

  • Author
3 minutes ago, Grafting Ken said:

Faraday I’ll get back to you this afternoon.

But for ants use ambectin once then back to my mix.

  • Author

Pest control is becoming harder just because we have so many trees now so you just got to stay on top of things.

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Hi I wonder if you could answer a question for me given your obvious level of knowledge.

I had a lime tree which was doing well. Then over the course of a week it lost every leaf it had. When I went to dig out the now dead tree I found its root bowl was virtually non existent.

Any idea what might have caused this? 

  • Author
  • Popular Post
21 minutes ago, Rookiescot said:

Hi I wonder if you could answer a question for me given your obvious level of knowledge.

I had a lime tree which was doing well. Then over the course of a week it lost every leaf it had. When I went to dig out the now dead tree I found its root bowl was virtually non existent.

Any idea what might have caused this? 

I’ve had the same problem in my early days could be over watering then root rot... maybe also a rootstock problem.. most trees here are grafted onto pomelo and I’m my opinion that’s not so good.. we graft onto troyer, Kleo, rangpur and volka. Again had problems buying in diseased stock so now we grow our own rootstocks.

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13 minutes ago, Grafting Ken said:

I’ve had the same problem in my early days could be over watering then root rot... maybe also a rootstock problem.. most trees here are grafted onto pomelo and I’m my opinion that’s not so good.. we graft onto troyer, Kleo, rangpur and volka. Again had problems buying in diseased stock so now we grow our own rootstocks.

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Which of the 'Lemon' trees is the closest to what I call proper lemons that you would use for G&T's please? I had a friend, who unfortunately is no longer with us,but he had two massive 'Lemon' trees in his garden in Hua-Hin and they were heaving with lemons. He swore that it was because he peed on them each day!

  • Author
39 minutes ago, cheshiremusicman said:

Which of the 'Lemon' trees is the closest to what I call proper lemons that you would use for G&T's please? I had a friend, who unfortunately is no longer with us,but he had two massive 'Lemon' trees in his garden in Hua-Hin and they were heaving with lemons. He swore that it was because he peed on them each day!

Spanish lisbon

eureka

sorrento

assam is very juicy big fruit great for lemonade grows very fast and fruits very heavy here no seeds or very little. Assam and Lisbon.... some not ripe yet.

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You cannot SELL things here in this manner, if you wish to place an Ad in classified then do so, but this offering of items for purchase here must STOP PLEASE.

 

 

 

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very impressive .     jing jing

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@Grafting Ken I greatly appreciate the brief lesson on lemons and limes, and the knowledge you've imparted on pest control. I've had similar bug problems but haven't nailed it yet. Can I ask what "Em" is, and where you source neem oil? I'm pretty clear on everything else I hope. And you can't beat those Sorrentos :). Nice orchard you've got there too. Are you in Bangkok or upcountry?

On 4/13/2020 at 6:28 PM, Grafting Ken said:

Hi Drtreelove.

for pests I spray every 2 week with a molasses based mix of Em, neem oil, seaweed extract and soap it keeps most pests in check. I had a problem with what I found to be a matalic borer a year or so ago constant spraying has sorted it, I believe the em kills the larvae. I just had a big outbreak of thrifts and had to go a little stronger to kill it off so used ambectin once then back to the neem and that’s sorted it.

leaf miner is not so bad on the finger lime and I’ve found they love nice young pomelo leaves over other citrus so keep some young pomelo around.

Only canker I’ve had is from trees I’ve had has been on young trees or rootstock I’ve had sent in.... I remove and burn them.

soil mix in the baskets I use my soil, sand, rice husk, burned rice husk, coco cior, coco husk... ad manure for orange lemon lime and pomelo but not for finger lime... no manure for finger lime.

keeping up with the spray is important and Spray everywhere trunk and all dripping wet.

ive found it much better to grow all citrus on for a year or so in the baskets then plant out start of rainy season when the tree is a nice size and much stronger.

That's an intelligent program.  

For the benefit of others who may be interested, I would like to ad my two satang comments.  

 

The two week intervals are necessary for organic program pro-active maintenance. One week schedule may be required for any active infestation. Chemical pesticides may have longer residual effectiveness, but if we want an organic program, we have to face the reality of limited period of residual repellent activity for biological, botanical products.

 

The bio-pesticide mix is probably over-kill, but better safe than sorry.  Insecticidal soap at the two week interval would probably do it, including for control of the metallic beetle larvae, and especially with a neem seed extract product as a repellent and reproductive disruptor. Along with good water management (drought stressed trees are more susceptible to beetle borers.) Maybe, but I doubt it was the EM that killed larvae. It was more likely the soap and neem that repelled adult beetles from laying eggs that become larval flathead borers.  Ken is smart to recommend spraying the woody branches and tree trunk as well as the foliage. 

 

Molasses is a sugary medium for any biological fungicide product to thrive and "colonize" (grow on the leaf or root surface to serve as a beneficial biological deterrent to pathogenic (disease causing) organisims. In this case EM (effective micro-organisms). The seaweed concentrate helps, and depending on formulation and absorption through leaf surface and stomata will aid in trace mineral nutrition.  Compost tea or a commercial biological fungicide is an alternative to the EM. 

 

"I just had a big outbreak of thrifts"  Typo, should be "thrips", in case anyone wants to search for info on these hard to control insect pests. They are a tiny, elongated, usually black colored insect that inhabits and feeds, usually on the underside of the leaf surface. They have rasping and sucking mouth parts that expose the leaf sap. Damage becomes visible as "stipling" discoloration of the leaf surface, leaf curling and branch dieback if advanced . The abemectin would have been effective because it is a "translaminate" insecticide that penetrates the entire leaf and poisons the food source for the thrips. Insecticidal soap and neem are contact and repellent products and may not have been as effective for control of an advanced infestation, but should be good for preventive maintenace if used regularly, especially of the lower leaf surfaces are covered with the botanical spray. Ken is wise to use abemectin only once or twice for an urgent control situation. He obviously knows that ongoing use of any systemic can build up in residual concentration in the plant tissues and is not appropriate for a food product in an organic program.  

 

Adding a complete nutrition formula to the planting soil will do a lot for pest and disease management.  Zinc is being touted for corona virus prevention in humans. Zinc, Copper and other micronutrients and balanced macronutrients are just as important for plant health and resistance to pests and disease. 

 

 

 

 

  • Popular Post
2 hours ago, Buffy Frobisher said:

@Grafting Ken I greatly appreciate the brief lesson on lemons and limes, and the knowledge you've imparted on pest control. I've had similar bug problems but haven't nailed it yet. Can I ask what "Em" is, and where you source neem oil? I'm pretty clear on everything else I hope. And you can't beat those Sorrentos :). Nice orchard you've got there too. Are you in Bangkok or upcountry?

Buffy F, here's an informative link about EM-1, the original formula.

https://www.teraganix.com/EM-1-Microbial-Inoculant-Microbial-Inoculants-p/1000.htm

There are many variations in Thailand and it is very popular. I hardly ever hear this term in US gardening, although it is starting to become more widely known. Compost tea is the preferred product and name. This is somewhat different, but along the same lines, as a cultivated microbe mixture.

 

We have to be careful with any microbial cultivation or use of unproven home-brewed cultures. The danger is in unknowingly cultivating a pathogen, like E-coli, which can occur from contamination of the brew by manure. Be careful what you cultivate and consume.  

 

I have not found "neem oil" in Thailand, although a member posted here about 10 years ago as having cold pressed neem oil for sale.  What is usually called neem oil by members here, is an Azadirhactin extract concentrate.  Aza is the most potent (and much more expensive) concentrate of the primary insecticide component of the extremely complex biochemical neem seed oil. 

70% Neem seed oil label will read like this: 

Active Ingredient:
Clarified Hydrophobic Extract of Neem Oil.............................70.0%

This type of product is not as potent in insecticidal properties because most commercial neem oil products have had the Aza extracted to be used in Aza concentrates. But cold pressed complete neem oil, or 70% neem oil has a wider range including suppression of some fungal pathogens, like powdery mildew. Many products have a name indicating a triple use, because it is an insecticide, miticide (acaricide) and fungicide. Azadirachtin products cannot claim fungicidal properties. But they are more potent in insect and mite management properties (repellent, reproductive disruptor, anti-feedant). 

 

You can find these or similar products at Home Pro, Global House, other superstores with a garden section, or online through Lazada Also at local plant shops. Ask for nam sadao.

Or direct from Thai Neem company. https://www.thaineem.co.th or Facebook.com/thaineem

 

Additional note on pest control. other members like our experienced friend Cooked have recommended wood vinegar as an effective pesticide. Our daughter's former boyfriend is an organic farmer in MaeTeang north of Chiang Mai and we visited his farm frequently, our source of organic vegetables. He grows leafy greens and uses a brew of wood vinegar and lemon grass (takite) leaves and stems soaked in the wood vinegar and water. (Too bad the boyfriend turned to yaabaa instead of organic farming. I had to get physical with him to leave her alone. which of course also ended the farm visits). 

 

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  • Author

Guys please don’t post about moderation.. CharlieH has been helpful and offered advice. I’m sorting things out so I hopefully can continue.

Do you have มะนาวแป้น please?

 

Manao Bpan, think they're called Key Lime...

 

If you don't have them, what would you recommend?

 

Thanks

 

  • Author
17 minutes ago, faraday said:

Do you have มะนาวแป้น please?

 

Manao Bpan, think they're called Key Lime...

 

If you don't have them, what would you recommend?

 

Thanks

 

Mate sent you a pm yesterday.

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