Honda Cbr150

[dave_boo]

Hey! I put in a pair of 35wt zenon bulbs, and it overloaded my electrical system. Bike ran ok, but all my dash lights etc dimmed, and the headlights didn't work properly (very dim).

I have a pair of 25 wt stanleys right now, but was wondering how to make the 35wt bulbs work. Did you do anything special?

Anybody?

Perhaps running the power directly from the battery would help with this? I know that stock electrical systems are designed on a budget and using cheaper wires that just get the job done at stock levels allows the manufacturer to save some money....

[taichiplanet]

You can get a good hp gain by opening up the standard muffler and cutting up the baffles inside.

Really? Must say that's interesting.

Possible to do with a cbr 150 you reckon? (I know next to nothing about bike mechanics)

What actully are 'the baffles' and would an average mechanic know how to 'cut them up'?

And what would the affects be? (noise/performance wise)

Thanks.

I would take it to a competent shop to do it as first the silencer box has to be cut neatly along a seam so it can be closed up and rewelded so finding one you trust would be your first hurdle in Thailand.

The baffles in a silencer box merely take the exhaust gases on a convoluted route to the outside air as part of the attempt to quieten down the sound of the exhaust.

Back in my UK production racing pit crew days cutting the exhaust around was an 'accepted' tactic to liberate a few more hp.

Bear in mind not all engines respond to the same sort of treatment but the ones we played around on seemed to like it best if the first plate in the silencer box was not cut around too much. Probably something to do with the exhaust tuning.

However, further plates could be drilled out or even removed to get the gases flowing better.

It was surprising how little affect these mods had on the exhaust noise and we never had a problem at scrutineering!

That being said I have never seen inside a CBR 150 exhaust!!!!!

The original muffler that was on my bike (before the DBS one) was modified. I don't know what was done to internally but all you need to do is chop one (or both?) ends off. It did change the exhaust note slightly, but can't say if it added extra HP or not.

[songoku777]

Welcome to the new comers. Indeed this thread has been most useful and informative.. i've learned a lot. Plus a great majority of the people here do know what they're talking about. Comparatively, this thread is very mature and civilized with almost no trolls or flames going on. Two thumbs up for all the folks here!

Hi Guys,

I am new to this forum and have read your posts on the CBR150R with utmost interest. I have been bikeing for 25 years +. Now living in Thailand I bought a new CBR150 last month. Still running it in. In my experience it is the best bike for Thailand in an overall general sense. Once run in I will be touring all over this beautiful country. My first mod I am going to do is fit a decent set of rubbers. The Pirelli MT75's sound just the job. Many thanx for the info and hope to contribute any experiences I encounter. Anyone living in the Pattya/Jomtien area if you PM me I would be glad to meet up.

Welcome to the club! Will be happy to catch up somtime, now that my bike is 'legal'.

Had to change the muffler back to standard, the DBS rainbow one was attracting too much attention. Even though my mechanic modified the noise killer to make it even quieter, i was hit with a THB1000 fine! I didn't even have time to offer a smaller 'fine', he just wrote out the ticket. I pointed to his Tiger and asked him to fire that up so we could compare, but he wouldn't play the game. He wasn't just picking on me, he was fining a lot of thais without helmets, but the noise issue still seems arbitary. Even if it was whisper quiet i reckon the BiB would see the mod and say 'too loud'. Pity, the DBS had a nice note to it; really nice when the noise killer was taken out!

The bike is going great with all the mods; i love it! Really can't tell much difference to having the bigger tyres on, they look better but the Pilot Sportys do the job nicely. With the 180cc engine the 47T rear sprocket seems a bit low geared now, so might drop it back to the 44T. I've fitted a Dexus rear gas shock, it is firmer but not unbearable as some earlier post mentioned about YSS gas shocks.

Pattaya cops are the worst! They tried to do me a couple of times for the TWO BROS pipe on my ER6n (which I admit is LOUD even at idle) but I blew 'em off and now generally try to avoid riding on that beach road at all costs. Just not worth the hassle.

Same here.. any mod on a small bike is a no-no to them. I shun upon those guys. Those loosers love to pick on small bikes -not to mention if you're not from around the place.

[songoku777]

Just tell them u want a pair (sometimes sold separately) of 12v (H6 type) halogen bulbs. the stock is not halogen (those are stanleys -ordinary bulbs) 18w.. just a little brighter than common automobile break lights (not very good illumination) ..I then switched to 12v H6 yellow halogen bulbs 18w ..they're crappy too. I changed to 12v H6 non-colored halogen bulbs 25w this time.. better. Still no signs of burns or over heating. Then I put on 12w original stanley bulbs 35w this time since i didn't want to overdo the wattage and they might burn.. several months, no signs of burns or overheating whatsoever.. Finally i got these blue 12v plasma bulbs H6 type still 35w.. the best i've tried so far.

I strongly recommend you install a headlight kill-switch so you can turn them off in traffic and waiting at well lit intersections. Btw., Raider switch assemblies work well.. most CBR's who install a switch on their's get switch assemblies from the Raider150.

Hey! I put in a pair of 35wt zenon bulbs, and it overloaded my electrical system. Bike ran ok, but all my dash lights etc dimmed, and the headlights didn't work properly (very dim).

I have a pair of 25 wt stanleys right now, but was wondering how to make the 35wt bulbs work. Did you do anything special?

Anybody?

Sorry about the electricals wj. Mine never had any problems at all. I started out very cautiously. From the original 18w bulbs, i changed to 18w yellow halogens (no good), after a month or two i changed to 25w shielded clear glass halogen bulbs (better, but still not enough), then after 2-3 months i switched to 35w (some rate at 32w) original stanley bulbs (a lot better, but i dont like the yellowish tint), i finally popped in those 35w halogen / plasma bulbs (IMO the next better mod would be HIDs).. been using them for about 5 months now.. no signs of burns, dents, my wires, reflectors, and lenses are in mint condition. The only thing i added to the original electric scheme was a simple toggle switch that acts as a circuit breaker so i can turn the headlight's 'dim' circuit off in traffic (note the 'bright' circuit is normally cut when you press the left hand switch) -and thats all.

-note most H6 bulbs sold locally or chinese made have the reverse polarity from the original stanleys ('hi' and 'lo' are interchanged)

Maybe you have other electrical mods that somehow conflict with high wattage bulbs?

Btw., did your tach flicker or made erratic movements at any point? Often when theres misrouted electricity, the tach is the most obvious electrical component that malfunctions. As mentioned, you might just want to make a direct battery connection to the headlights -however i never tried that before, plus if you'll do that -anyone can turn the headlights on even without the ignition on.

Most HID systems are connected to the thickest red wire you will see when you remove the tank.. (if i remember right, there are five plastic sockets of different sizes lined up under the tank that connect the harness wires together -its the 2nd to the right socket -just look for the thickest red wire) that wire is the main positive circuit of your bike you can turn off using the ignition key -it means you cant turn the lights on without turning on the ignition first.

Better yet, you might want to have it wired by a qualified technician to be sure nothing else go wrong

Edited October 17, 2009 by songoku777

[songoku777]

A local honda 150cc.. i dont think this is a cbr tho. Any rides like these in thailand?

[wjmark]

Perhaps running the power directly from the battery would help with this? I know that stock electrical systems are designed on a budget and using cheaper wires that just get the job done at stock levels allows the manufacturer to save some money....

Thanks Dave_Boo and songoku.

The only electrical mods that I have done are to install an unlimited CDI, change the coil to NSR (same size - probably the same coil), put in a silicon spark lead, and install a platinum spark plug. Not any real changes at all.

A mechanic suggested putting in a relay from the battery to the lights, and I had him do that. Lights work fine - nice to be able to see at night in the mountains...

But now there is a charging problem - only charges to about 11.5 volts - not the 12.5-13 that it should be.

The tach is fine, but the dash lights flicker at idle.

I dunno...

Currently I am turning the lights off a couple of minutes before I turn off the bike - just to have enough charge to get going again!

Just tell them u want a pair (sometimes sold separately) of 12v (H6 type) halogen bulbs. the stock is not halogen (those are stanleys -ordinary bulbs) 18w.. just a little brighter than common automobile break lights (not very good illumination) ..I then switched to 12v H6 yellow halogen bulbs 18w ..they're crappy too. I changed to 12v H6 non-colored halogen bulbs 25w this time.. better. Still no signs of burns or over heating. Then I put on 12w original stanley bulbs 35w this time since i didn't want to overdo the wattage and they might burn.. several months, no signs of burns or overheating whatsoever.. Finally i got these blue 12v plasma bulbs H6 type still 35w.. the best i've tried so far.

I strongly recommend you install a headlight kill-switch so you can turn them off in traffic and waiting at well lit intersections. Btw., Raider switch assemblies work well.. most CBR's who install a switch on their's get switch assemblies from the Raider150.

Hey! I put in a pair of 35wt zenon bulbs, and it overloaded my electrical system. Bike ran ok, but all my dash lights etc dimmed, and the headlights didn't work properly (very dim).

I have a pair of 25 wt stanleys right now, but was wondering how to make the 35wt bulbs work. Did you do anything special?

Anybody?

Sorry about the electricals wj. Mine never had any problems at all. I started out very cautiously. From the original 18w bulbs, i changed to 18w yellow halogens (no good), after a month or two i changed to 25w shielded clear glass halogen bulbs (better, but still not enough), then after 2-3 months i switched to 35w (some rate at 32w) original stanley bulbs (a lot better, but i dont like the yellowish tint), i finally popped in those 35w halogen / plasma bulbs (IMO the next better mod would be HIDs).. been using them for about 5 months now.. no signs of burns, dents, my wires, reflectors, and lenses are in mint condition. The only thing i altered from the original electric scheme was a simple toggle switch that acts as a circuit breaker so i can turn the 'dim' circuit off in traffic (not the 'bright' circuit is normally cut when you press the left hand switch) -and thats all.

Maybe you have other electrical mods that somehow conflict with high wattage bulbs?

Btw., did your tach flicker or made erratic movements at any point? Often when theres misrouted electricity, the tach is the most obvious electrical component that malfunctions. As mentioned, you might just want to make a direct battery connection to the headlights -however i never tried that before, plus if you'll do that -anyone can turn the headlights on even without the ignition on.

Most HID systems are connected to the thickest red wire you will see when you remove the tank.. (if i remember right, there are five plastic sockets of different sizes lined up under the tank that connect the harness wires together -its the 2nd to the right socket -just look for the thickest red wire) that wire is the main positive circuit of your bike you can turn off using the ignition key -it means you cant turn the lights on without turning on the ignition first.

Better yet, you might want to have it wired by a qualified technician to be sure nothing else go wrong

[Powerband]

check the water in the battery lately? unless of course if its a sealed one.

BTW you can push start the CBR no problem, just make sure the key is switched 'on'.

[wjmark]

check the water in the battery lately? unless of course if its a sealed one.

BTW you can push start the CBR no problem, just make sure the key is switched 'on'.

Thanks. Yes, the battery is sealed...

And, as Gerry Austin says in Goodbye Pork Pie (after selling the battery from their Mini), "No worries mate. We'll crash start the bitch."

Edited October 17, 2009 by wjmark

[Adh]

Whewww...just finished this fantastic thread! Picking up my CBR 150 on Monday. I was originally going to get a Fino or the like for commuting to work in BKK but after finding this thread I'm sold on this bike that seems to inspire such enthusiasm from many of you. I wanted a small bike to weave through the horrible traffic in the city but with enough power for the odd trip out of town in the holidays and this bike seems to be a good compromise. Thanks for all the useful info and insights and happy riding!

[visions]

Whewww...just finished this fantastic thread! Picking up my CBR 150 on Monday. I was originally going to get a Fino or the like for commuting to work in BKK but after finding this thread I'm sold on this bike that seems to inspire such enthusiasm from many of you. I wanted a small bike to weave through the horrible traffic in the city but with enough power for the odd trip out of town in the holidays and this bike seems to be a good compromise. Thanks for all the useful info and insights and happy riding!

Congratulations, you will find you have made a great choice. They are a fantastic bike! Perfect for traffic as has the low end grunt, acceleration, but can also cruise all day at 100-110kph ok. Cheap to run....current prices it costs 1 baht per km in gasoline 91.

Im on my second one and done over 10,000km in 3 and half months, never misses a beat. I looked very hard before I bought this one but it beat all the alternatives for delivering what I needed in a bike. Resale value beats all the others hands down.

I can carry heaps of groceries slung over the bars with no problems. Storage and carrying ability is often a criticism of sport type bikes.

And Ive had 3 up several times to stave off another criticism.

Happy riding.

[Nio]

If you want to find out about speed mods to bikes you need to go to HKS Drag Racing in Bangkok on Bike days. Not only will you find every speed mod known to man, you see incredible speeds achieved that you would not believe without seeing. HKS is professional quarter mile track with christmas tree light starting. The bike in the photo posted a 10.9 sec in the 1/4 mile. Before you say impossible, go see with your own eyes. I live near HKS and see this all the time. The Thai's that drive this fast are crazy, the mechanics can change and tune an engine in minutes. Something you have to see to believe. This bike will run flat all over your CBR 150. tons more photos from HKS at visualthailand.com

[visions]

If you want to find out about speed mods to bikes you need to go to HKS Drag Racing in Bangkok on Bike days. Not only will you find every speed mod known to man, you see incredible speeds achieved that you would not believe without seeing. HKS is professional quarter mile track with christmas tree light starting. The bike in the photo posted a 10.9 sec in the 1/4 mile. Before you say impossible, go see with your own eyes. I live near HKS and see this all the time. The Thai's that drive this fast are crazy, the mechanics can change and tune an engine in minutes. Something you have to see to believe. This bike will run flat all over your CBR 150. tons more photos from HKS at visualthailand.com

Yes, quite believable. But u cannot compare one of those striped down racers to a stock CBR 150. Of course it would eat a CBR150 on a drag strip. Would be interesting to have a drag on one of the racers tho!!

However.....wonder which bike would get to the end of a 1000km non stop trip first???? Horses for courses as the saying goes.

[songoku777]

@ adh ..congrats on your new CBR150 & welcome

@ wj ..relay u said? Hmm, the mechanic must have wired your headlight directly to the steady current (DC circuit) of the bike, unlike the panel lights, tail light (except the brake light & signal lights), those flickering lights if im not mistaken are all connected to the magneto (running on the AC circuit, thus the bulbs pulsating along with the RPM). Yes there will be a very big improvement if the headlight is connected directly to the steady DC current of the bike.. but beware your headlight bulbs will burn brighter & hotter too.. and im 100% sure if you dont install a manual switch on that new electric scheme.. it will burn your reflectors.

Btw., it might help since all HID fitted bikes are modified to have the headlights connect via stable DC current of the bike.. get a bigger battery. The stock CBR150 battery is around 5A (like some honda waves & other small bikes).. you can change that into a 8A thus the battery can hold more charge. Some modify the battery compartment to make it fit. However there are also batteries that have the same size with a higher Amp rating (im not sure but i think the only difference is its got more elec plates in it or something).

Another mod (which i have no personal experience myself), is changing or adding a diode to the magneto / AC generator of the bike itself.. making it charge at a higher voltage. Consult a qualified electrical technician for this.

Still another possibility is changing to a higher specs Rectifier (again i've never tried this myself before). The Rectifier is the little metal heatsink you will see on the left hand (if i remember right) rear fender of the bike when you remove the tail fairing. Never get that wet -thats the reason why manufacturer designed it to be situated high above everything else to avoid splashes of water. Again its best to consult a qualified technician for this.

Btw., extensive electrical charging mods are popular with disco-bikes where i come from.. they install neon lights, loud sound system, flashers, HIDs, fancy leds all packed in a small bike.. just imagine how much electricity this eats up

[Bobr]

I bought a new CBR-150 about 3 years ago, and it's been a typical Honda product: flawless. Now have 61,000 km on it and other than maintenance items like tires, light bulbs, chains and sprockets nothing has gone wrong with it. I was considering buying a new one, but except for the colors, the new ones are identical to the 3 year old model so buying a new one does not make sense. I also bought a cz-110 for the GF and it too has been flawless. Honda really does have some incredible quality.

[wjmark]

===

The mechanic suggested disconnecting one low-beam - so only on 'hi' is there too much load - not a bad idea.

I was thinking maybe run the two low beams in series. 2x35 watt bulbs in series - that would give me 17.5 watts total, wouldn't it? Would the plasma bulbs even light up?

..relay u said? Hmm, the mechanic must have wired your headlight directly to the steady current (DC circuit) of the bike, unlike the panel lights, tail light (except the brake light & signal lights), those flickering lights if im not mistaken are all connected to the magneto (running on the AC circuit, thus the bulbs pulsating along with the RPM). Yes there will be a very big improvement if the headlight is connected directly to the steady DC current of the bike.. but beware your headlight bulbs will burn brighter & hotter too.. and im 100% sure if you dont install a manual switch on that new electric scheme.. it will burn your reflectors.

So should I try to have the headlight wired to the magneto instead of the battery?

Btw., it might help since all HID fitted bikes are modified to have the headlights connect via stable DC current of the bike.. get a bigger battery. The stock CBR150 battery is around 5A (like some honda waves & other small bikes).. you can change that into a 8A thus the battery can hold more charge. Some modify the battery compartment to make it fit. However there are also batteries that have the same size with a higher Amp rating (im not sure but i think the only difference is its got more elec plates in it or something).

But if the charging voltage is too low, then won't an 8A battery give up too - just take more time to die?

Another mod (which i have no personal experience myself), is changing or adding a diode to the magneto / AC generator of the bike itself.. making it charge at a higher voltage. Consult a qualified electrical technician for this.

Sorry - but "a qualified electrical technician"? Are you being mean, or funny?

Still another possibility is changing to a higher specs Rectifier (again i've never tried this myself before). The Rectifier is the little metal heatsink you will see on the left hand (if i remember right) rear fender of the bike when you remove the tail fairing. Never get that wet -thats the reason why manufacturer designed it to be situated high above everything else to avoid splashes of water. Again its best to consult a qualified technician for this.

And what motorcycle shop in ChiangMai has one of these "qualified technicians? Oh please tell!

Btw., extensive electrical charging mods are popular with disco-bikes where i come from.. they install neon lights, loud sound system, flashers, HIDs, fancy leds all packed in a small bike.. just imagine how much electricity this eats up http://www.motorcyclephilippines.com/forum...ies/biggrin.gif

I think that it is worth the trouble to get these lights working - the high-beams on at night in the mountains light up everything! Nice to be able to see!

.

[Yimmy]

Just did a few 200km per day rides and I must say that my ass is killing me.

Or certainly was from about 100km onwards on each trip. My GF also suffered from duit jep after about 50km while on the back.

Does anyone know if there are seat modifications available to soften the ride so to speak?

And my bike is 4 years old, and has certainly lost some power in that time, on two occaisions a newer model cruised past me with a pillion passenger as I was close to top speed cruising at about 100kph at 8,000rpm.

Anyway, the seats on the cbr suck for any ride over 100km.

[visions]

Just did a few 200km per day rides and I must say that my ass is killing me.

Or certainly was from about 100km onwards on each trip. My GF also suffered from duit jep after about 50km while on the back.

Does anyone know if there are seat modifications available to soften the ride so to speak?

And my bike is 4 years old, and has certainly lost some power in that time, on two occaisions a newer model cruised past me with a pillion passenger as I was close to top speed cruising at about 100kph at 8,000rpm.

Anyway, the seats on the cbr suck for any ride over 100km.

I have done several 600km rides non stop (except for gas fill ups without getting off the bike) and sure pleased to get off at the end but more stiff joints than sore bum. I did notice tho that when I bought my new cbr the seat is decidely harder than my first one, certainly less comfortable.

I sold the first cbr at 57000km (actually was more than that as it had done more than the 5000km on the clock when I bought it) and definately lacking in power that was available at lower km. The new bike was dissapointing in power untill about 2000km when it loosened up and has considerably more go now. Now 4 months old and heading for 12000km already!!

Still think the CBR 150 is currently the best choice for small sportbike. But love more hp...guess thats never ending tho.

[PeaceBlondie]

Every bike I ever rode gave me a bum bum after about 300 km; all 11 of them. Move around.

[visions]

Anything over about 80kph I drop my elbows onto my lower thighs which drops me close to the tank.

Then very little wind (virtually nil) buffeting on the body and the bike has far more directional stability.

The result of that is very little weight on my bum so longer distance before getting a numb bum, and no weight on the wrists at all as they are below the bars. Im not a big guy which obviously makes a difference, but Im certainly .no young teenager also.

Another plus is that in rain I get a little wet on the shoulders but that is all....except for the wash from the front wheel heading directly onto the feet!!

All in all I find it more comfortable than the normal prone driving position.....but then...Im always different than everyone else.

[PeaceBlondie]

Except for off-cycle activities better left unmentioned, I don't get prone below 120 kph, even though folks assume I'm limp-wristed. The riding position of a CBR150R isn't extreme. It it were, butts wouldn't get sore.

[songoku777]

===

The mechanic suggested disconnecting one low-beam - so only on 'hi' is there too much load - not a bad idea.

I was thinking maybe run the two low beams in series. 2x35 watt bulbs in series - that would give me 17.5 watts total, wouldn't it? Would the plasma bulbs even light up?

Not a bad idea.. but ofcouse it would be a lot weaker than a 18w halogen on each side. And ofcourse if one bulb gets busted, both die.

..relay u said? Hmm, the mechanic must have wired your headlight directly to the steady current (DC circuit) of the bike, unlike the panel lights, tail light (except the brake light & signal lights), those flickering lights if im not mistaken are all connected to the magneto (running on the AC circuit, thus the bulbs pulsating along with the RPM). Yes there will be a very big improvement if the headlight is connected directly to the steady DC current of the bike.. but beware your headlight bulbs will burn brighter & hotter too.. and im 100% sure if you dont install a manual switch on that new electric scheme.. it will burn your reflectors.

So should I try to have the headlight wired to the magneto instead of the battery?

-Maybe not literally, but with stock configuration.. that's the principle. Notice on stock CBRs how the headlights along with the panel lights, & tail lights ..pulsate along with the RPM. Only until 2000rpm do they emit a steady glow.

Btw., it might help since all HID fitted bikes are modified to have the headlights connect via stable DC current of the bike.. get a bigger battery. The stock CBR150 battery is around 5A (like some honda waves & other small bikes).. you can change that into a 8A thus the battery can hold more charge. Some modify the battery compartment to make it fit. However there are also batteries that have the same size with a higher Amp rating (im not sure but i think the only difference is its got more elec plates in it or something).

But if the charging voltage is too low, then won't an 8A battery give up too - just take more time to die?

Correct, that's kind of how it works. However since its got bigger storage, it 'should' be sufficient enough to 'recover' when the headlights are not in use (which is why a switch would really be helpful).

Another mod (which i have no personal experience myself), is changing or adding a diode to the magneto / AC generator of the bike itself.. making it charge at a higher voltage. Consult a qualified electrical technician for this.

Sorry - but "a qualified electrical technician"? Are you being mean, or funny?

Sorry i kind of overlooked that. .

And what motorcycle shop in ChiangMai has one of these "qualified technicians? Oh please tell!

.. none i guess :/ However from where i come from, there's this guy who works on a lof of different kinds of bike electicals and is highly recommended by friends and in the forums.. one thing i like the best about him is his personal bike is also a CBR150.. so i think he pretty much knows what he's doing -if i'd let him work on mine. In short, your best chance would be to find an electric geek who own a CBR150 himself.

Btw., extensive electrical charging mods are popular with disco-bikes where i come from.. they install neon lights, loud sound system, flashers, HIDs, fancy leds all packed in a small bike.. just imagine how much electricity this eats up

I think that it is worth the trouble to get these lights working - the high-beams on at night in the mountains light up everything! Nice to be able to see!

.

I'd still wont go over 80kph at night

Every bike I ever rode gave me a bum bum after about 300 km; all 11 of them. Move around.

I think curisers would be the most comfortable. However not often being able to ride one myself makes me feel a very awkward position when riding them.

Except for off-cycle activities better left unmentioned, I don't get prone below 120 kph, even though folks assume I'm limp-wristed. The riding position of a CBR150R isn't extreme. It it were, butts wouldn't get sore.

I raised the handlebars on my CBR150 as high as they would go and moved them inward a bit, plus made the tail lower a bit so the overall riding position would be more upright.. it (somehow) helps lessen back pain on long rides. Peronally, i dont see a use for aftermarket rear sets which would make the riding position more uncomfortable in long rides.

[visions]

I raised the handlebars on my CBR150 as high as they would go and moved them inward a bit, plus made the tail lower a bit so the overall riding position would be more upright.. it (somehow) helps lessen back pain on long rides. Peronally, i dont see a use for aftermarket rear sets which would make the riding position more uncomfortable in long rides.

Amazing how we are all different......I am looking at getting lower bars!! I find dropping my elbows onto my thighs takes all the weight of my wrists, arms and much less back strain. All my upper body weight is transfred via my arms to my lower legs. very little weight of bum on seat so doesnt get sore

The reduction in wind buffeting on the body is far less tireing, far better directional control, plus for the same throttle setting my speed even at 90kph will go up to 95...so faster and more economical also. I normally cruise at 100 to 105 but frequently faster than that, depends on the traffic.

I did many 100s of kilometers on a Phantom.....the cbr is far more comfortable and easier to ride, better handling and much safer!!

On a slightly different subject....followed a fino for a very short distance today...the handlebars must have been close to a meter wide!! Sure stuffed him in traffic!! The thai guy looked very awkward trying to drive it!!

[Yimmy]

The gears have started to become a little bit grindy/sticky on my cbr when changing gear. I just checked the manual and it doesn't mention how to oil them up. Or should it be the lever connection that needs to be oiled?

Anyway, how is best advised to oil your gears? Remove the engine cover on the left hand side until you find them, then let loose with a bottle of WD40?

Thanks.

[jbeck]

The gears have started to become a little bit grindy/sticky on my cbr when changing gear. I just checked the manual and it doesn't mention how to oil them up. Or should it be the lever connection that needs to be oiled?

Anyway, how is best advised to oil your gears? Remove the engine cover on the left hand side until you find them, then let loose with a bottle of WD40?

Thanks.

If you are not joking, best advice for you is to take your bike to the honda dealer.

[Powerband]

tighten up your clutch cable

[Adh]

Going to give my cbr150 it's first oil change before taking it on its first out of town ride next weekend. I have a couple of questions though if anyone can help. I don't have a torque wrench to remove the oil drain plug like the manual suggests. Do you fellas just use an ordinary wrench or should I buy a torque wrench? The other thing is I can't see the oil filter and it makes no mention in the manual. Does the cbr 150 have a changeable oil filter?

Thanks

[PeaceBlondie]

No oil filter. Labor very cheap.

[phobic]

Going to give my cbr150 it's first oil change before taking it on its first out of town ride next weekend. I have a couple of questions though if anyone can help. I don't have a torque wrench to remove the oil drain plug like the manual suggests. Do you fellas just use an ordinary wrench or should I buy a torque wrench? The other thing is I can't see the oil filter and it makes no mention in the manual. Does the cbr 150 have a changeable oil filter?

Thanks

Hey,

I dont use a torque wrench for changing my oil, it might be easier though.. so i think a regular wrench shouldnt be a problem for you too.. just make you tighten the bolt when you are done. The oil filter is a joke hehe..its at the bottom front of the right hand side when you sit on the bike. If you want you can open the right side of the engine after you its empty of oil and clean it.. might be some metal stuck there since this is your first oil change. But you should invest in a torque wrench, its a good tool and you will have use for it if you decied to to other stuff with your bike.

Look at picture and you see the black small disc.

[Adh]

Thanks for the replies.

PB I'm not concerned about the cost of labour but I'd like to learn a little about my bike by doing a few small things as they come up -Zen and the Art... and all that. The bike's first oil change seems a good way to start.

Thanks for the advice phobic -even illustrated! I'll get a torque wrench as I'll be less likely to balls it up then.

[Powerband]

You don't need no stinking torque wrench to change remove the oil screw, don't waste your money.

Finger tighten , then use a socket/wrench and turn 1/4 -1/2 more, don't make it to tight.

Edited November 8, 2009 by Powerband